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cwarndahl
12-12-2011, 07:15 PM
Well i was going out real quick and as i was sitting in the doc i engaged the ballast pumps as i was doing that i ended up talking with another boater there. after about 30 minutes of talking i turn to look at my boat and see it sitting real low. i run over and see water in coming in the boat. A: my bildge did not turn on. until i hit the switch. on my 01 x-10 its a 3 way switch off in the middle and on with a light up top and a bottom position, the question is does the switch have to be down for it to turn on automatically or is my float switch bad and i should replace. question 2 is there anything is should check out beside engine wise. it didnt get up to the spark plugs. and it started find i let it run for about an out then i took it out for an hour or so.

cause of the problem the 90 degree going into the sac in the ski compartment had dry roted and caused the water to dump into the bildge.
thanks

Table Rocker
12-12-2011, 07:34 PM
The switch (if it is like mine) needs to be pushed in at the bottom to be on auto.

On
Off
Auto

cwarndahl
12-13-2011, 09:31 AM
yeah thats what i thought, what a way to learn that lesson.

gatorguy
12-13-2011, 09:42 AM
Glad you didn't sink it. Good reminder though to check fittings etc durring winterization check-list.

cwarndahl
12-13-2011, 10:22 AM
Now that i found this forum where people respond, im learning allot about my boat and where things are. had i actually went to get a coffee with the other boater i may not have had a boat.

cwarndahl
12-13-2011, 10:23 AM
nice how this got moved. from ballast, (what is actually broken and caused the problem) to general. lol

oldairboater
12-14-2011, 12:03 PM
I actually added a second bilge pump to my 1993. It is wired to my battery switch with float switch control only. No one can turn it off as long as the boat is powered up. That way if someone else fails to turn my primary bilge pump to automatic----the boat still has an active bilge pump.

mikeg205
12-14-2011, 01:30 PM
yes, switch in bottom position..... you may want to pull the starter and make sure there's no water in the bell housing - and also check tranny fluid to make sure water did not get in thru vent if you have one...

cwarndahl
12-14-2011, 04:10 PM
thanks for a heads up the starter i knew about the trans i did not. yes i am going to add a second bildge direct to the battery so i dont have this problem again.

GoneBoatN
12-14-2011, 04:35 PM
I actually added a second bilge pump to my 1993. It is wired to my battery switch with float switch control only. No one can turn it off as long as the boat is powered up. That way if someone else fails to turn my primary bilge pump to automatic----the boat still has an active bilge pump.

Yep. It makes so much sense to do so!

Also, make sure you put an in-line fuse on the wire to the battery as well. I've seen debates about better to have the battery burn up than the boat sunk on the bottom of the lake. Since there is a chance of the boat exploding - I do not see much logic to that side of the argument.

oldairboater
12-20-2011, 09:37 PM
In line 30 amp fuse. Fuse is overrated but would blow if there is a direct short. No use in having a back up that doesn't work. I also put the plug back in the boat and wash the bilge with fresh clean water. Letting the water get high enough to trip the float switch without flooding the transmission or starter.Yep. It makes so much sense to do so!

Also, make sure you put an in-line fuse on the wire to the battery as well. I've seen debates about better to have the battery burn up than the boat sunk on the bottom of the lake. Since there is a chance of the boat exploding - I do not see much logic to that side of the argument.

gotta_ski
12-23-2011, 04:49 PM
Every other boat my family has had over the years never had the option to turn off the auto bilge pump. When I think about it the mastercraft brand is the only one I've ever seen do this.

Now, I love my parents and siblings to death, which is why I let them use my boat when I'm not around, but I don't fully trust them to remember to keep the switch in Auto when they are done with the boat, which would keep me up at night.

For this reason I rewired the switch so its either ON or Auto, without an Off option. Anyone else done this, or see any reason why this isn't a good idea? My boat lives in the water all season, and is only trailered a few times a summer.

cwarndahl
12-24-2011, 12:04 PM
did you replace the toggle to a 2 position? how did you get rid of the off position? also if you got through the switch its still off when the battery switch is off i believe?

gotta_ski
12-27-2011, 06:36 PM
My boat doesn't have a battery switch, so no issue there. Eventually I want to add a second battery with a switch, but right now I'm paying my tuition first.

As for the switch, its still the same three position switch, but I jumpered the wire for the auto feed to the pump directly to the power coming into the switch. This way the auto circuit always has power, more like most other boat brands out there.

GoneBoatN
12-27-2011, 09:05 PM
In my 2010 Mastercraft, the bilge switches are Auto/On; no off position. It might be labeled Auot/Manual but same thing. They also do not run through the battery switch but are live at all times. So at some point Mastercraft seen the light.

My boat does not sit in the water but rather is garaged. If it did, I think I would install a 3rd bilge pump and wire directly to the battery so that I could visually inspect the wiring easily. With all the wires going though cable housings and such it would make visual inspection of the complete circuit difficult. IMHO, the bilge pump is one of the things that must work along with the fire extinguisher. I test mine from time to time by removing from the clip and submerging in a small bucket of water to make sure the internal float switch is working.