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travis351
11-29-2011, 12:23 AM
New member first post. Seems like a great forum here FAQ and history were very enlightening.

Anyway, my 83 MC Skier (Powerslot 1-1/8 shaft) has been parked for a while and I'm slowly bringing her back to life. After fixing the fuel and electrical issues, we were out for a ski and the driveshaft sheared off right behind the strut. Judging by the rust, it appears to have pitted so badly right there that it rusted nearly 3/4 through. The only shiny metal exposed by the shear was about the thickness of a pencil. Probably a miracle it lasted for 3 runs that day.

Skidim needs a measurement tip to tip to order an ARE replacement shaft and coupling and as you can see, I'm missing one of the tips. Any ideas on how long the drive shaft on my boat should be?

Are there any other drive shaft replacement options out there that I should look into? I run in both fresh and saltwater.

I'm also in the market for a 14x18 Prop, nut and key if anybody has one they want to sell.

Thanks!

mikeg205
11-29-2011, 12:31 AM
Check Oj props...I am sure they know how much shaft you need past the strut for installing a prop... Good Luck.... please post your solution and picks... :D

FrankSchwab
11-29-2011, 01:41 AM
Man, that sucks.

I don't have a prop for you, but I've found good deals on Ebay in the past, especially for stock props like the 14x18. Probably still cost you a couple hundred bucks, though.

/frank

mayo93prostar
11-29-2011, 08:28 AM
You should replace your strut bearings also. There are new white plastic ones that are supposed to be better than the old black rubber ones.

corey
11-29-2011, 07:04 PM
The shaft length will vary depending on engine tranny combo, I saw you had a powerslot but here are all the combos for an 83'

-47.5" x 1" for std tranny
-40" x 1-1/8" for powerslot with 454
-41.75" x 1-1/8" for powerslot with 351

corey
11-29-2011, 07:05 PM
Forgot to add that the shaft usually comes with a key and prop nut.

81SNS
11-29-2011, 09:43 PM
corey is right on, my 81 power slot , 351 shaft measures 41.75"

madcityskier
11-29-2011, 10:58 PM
Might want to take a good look at the rudder as well. Looks fairly corroded, as would be expected given the age and sometime salt water. Had a buddy break one in a moderately hard turn some time ago. Much better thing to fix before being stranded.

Willski
11-29-2011, 11:55 PM
Wow. I bet that was a surprise! Hope you can get her fixed up soon. You may want to check a few other things while you're at it if there was that much corrosion. Rudder bushing, etc....

thatsmrmastercraft
11-30-2011, 08:06 AM
Might want to take a good look at the rudder as well. Looks fairly corroded, as would be expected given the age and sometime salt water. Had a buddy break one in a moderately hard turn some time ago. Much better thing to fix before being stranded.

I bet that was exciting.


I think I would replace all the running gear just for peace of mind.

TRBenj
11-30-2011, 06:27 PM
The end to end measurement doesnt mean much... there can be a decent amount of variation on how long the threads are. I would push to have them size it based on the distance you have from the tranny coupler and the end of the strut. Add 1/2" of clearance between the strut and prop hub.

travis351
12-21-2011, 12:22 PM
Thanks for all the help guys. I found a prop on Ski It Again for $125 and another on eBay for $50! SkiDim is sending shaft, strut bearings and a few other things I needed. 12% off using PEACE as the promo code before the end of the year. Writeup to follow next month.

-V-
12-21-2011, 12:40 PM
you found a prop on ebay for 50? thats a good deal......

travis351
01-15-2012, 09:06 AM
I'm having issues removing the strut to replace the bearings. It must be glued to the hull, appears to be silicone. Anybody have any experience removing a stuck strut?

I'm torn between leaving it on there and buying the bearing tool to take care of this instead of trying to pry it or twist it off to get it to a press. Any advice?

1redTA
01-15-2012, 09:15 AM
could you use a piece of all thread and some sockets to make you own bearing puller instead of removing the struts?

travis351
01-15-2012, 10:05 AM
I probably could, I'm just a little concerned about the force required to pull both bearings out at once. I expected the strut to just fall once the screws were out. The bearings are actually in good shape, but with the new shaft, I hoped to switch to the new style plastic bearings instead of the brass/rubber ones. I could even just leave the existing ones...just hate to pass up the opportunity while the shaft is out.

psychobilly
01-15-2012, 10:16 AM
To remove the cutlass bearings ("strut bearings") you need to pull the shaft, which you have done. Then take a hack saw blade and stick it through the middle and cut the bearing taking care not to cut into the strut. After you cut through it use a screw driver to pry one side of it up. It sould free it up and come out. You can stick the blade through and then put the hack saw back together and cut away.

74393

Make sure you clean up the ID of the strut real good with some emery cloth but don't take too much meat out.

An install tip is to put the new bearing or bearings, if they are two piece, in the freezer for a few hours. This will cause the material to shrink and it should slide right in to the strut.

Hope this is what you needed.

ahhudgins
01-15-2012, 11:14 AM
I'm having issues removing the strut to replace the bearings. It must be glued to the hull, appears to be silicone. Anybody have any experience removing a stuck strut?

I'm torn between leaving it on there and buying the bearing tool to take care of this instead of trying to pry it or twist it off to get it to a press. Any advice?

I wouldn't panic just yet about the bushings. I thought I had to press mine out but I sprayed them down with some liquid wrench and let it soak in for a while. I took an extension for a 1/2 ratchet and tapped both of mine out with no problem. The strut is stuck to the hull with adhesive and you will get many different suggestions as the best way to remove it. You should be able to insert the end of your old shaft into the strut and give it a yank. You want to seal up the new strut as well to keep water from entering from the bolt holes.

psychobilly
01-21-2012, 06:54 AM
travis 351, did you get it????????



BUMP..........

psychobilly
02-05-2012, 01:32 PM
Travis, did you ever get these out????


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=30.118237,-95.468008

travis351
02-13-2012, 07:09 PM
Attention has been diverted else ware for a little bit. I'll post up when I get something done.

travis351
04-10-2012, 11:55 AM
Finally made some progress on my beloved "Beatercraft." Ended up sawing the old coupler off the broken shaft with a sawzall which was much easier than expected. Next, the strut bearings came out with the hack saw/screwdriver/hammer trick and the strut finally fell off, so I could re-install the frozen plastic bearings on the bench. Thanks for the tip!

Did a little gelcoat repair above the prop as well as touching up the glue around the prop log with 5200. Re-packed the rudder packing gland (first time since '03 whoops) ARE shaft went in as advertised...piece of cake. Had to trim the rubber prop log seal about 1/2" back to fit the tool in there. Replacement prop fit like a charm...engine alignment, not so much...

travis351
04-10-2012, 12:00 PM
New mounts are in...any sage advice? I'm hoping the mounts aren't seized up with the attaching blocks. Better hit it with PB blaster.

travis351
05-11-2012, 06:23 PM
Just to save anybody else the trouble, make sure to loosen up the nut on the smaller threads on the mounts about 1/4" then tap it in so you can separate the mount from the attaching block. Had to learn this one the hard way.