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View Full Version : Wet Sand or Compound?


Nvrgvup
11-04-2011, 08:45 PM
Going to have decals removed, hull polished and new decals installed to freshen up my 83'.

Overall the hull is in good shape, faded somewhat mostly on the stern one side rear. A little pitted at the rear side in the metal flake near Ying Yang decal.

One shop said they would compound with a rotary and it should be good for 4 -5 yrs. just as good as wet sanding.

Other shop a little more expensive said they would wet sand and then polish from there.

I am divided which way to go. I know all you guys talk about wet sanding. Is this the best way to go or is compounding with the right materials and equipment equally as good?

Thanks!!

Thrall
11-04-2011, 09:34 PM
In my limited experience, 2 boats, alot of cars, wetsanding is really only needed to remove scratches. I have yet to find oxidation on gel coat (including my '96 that sat outside with one side facing West in Phoenix for 4 years, heavy oxidation on that side) that can't be taken out with a good rotary polisher and med/heavy cut compound.
Any actual scratches that you can feel with your finger nail, you'd be better served to sand the area before compounding if youwant 100% results.
That said I know nothing about metal flake. I'm speaking only about solid colors.

Cloaked
11-04-2011, 09:38 PM
Going to have decals removed, hull polished and new decals installed to freshen up my 83'.

Overall the hull is in good shape, faded somewhat mostly on the stern one side rear. A little pitted at the rear side in the metal flake near Ying Yang decal.

One shop said they would compound with a rotary and it should be good for 4 -5 yrs. just as good as wet sanding.

Other shop a little more expensive said they would wet sand and then polish from there.

I am divided which way to go. I know all you guys talk about wet sanding. Is this the best way to go or is compounding with the right materials and equipment equally as good?

Thanks!!It's all relative to the condition (as you have described) and what you need. If it were me and the budget allowed, I'd either wet sand it out myself for nothing in labor, or while shelling out money, I'd spring for the wetsand and be done with it. However, you could easily do the compounding yourself and see how that works. Honestly, wetsanding down beyond any oxidation and pitting is the best bet for the long haul... If your oxidation is shallow, you'll have plenty of room to get down to the new look again... and they sure look nice when you get to that point.

Where are you getting the decals?

$0.02

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02ProstarSammyD
11-04-2011, 09:38 PM
^^I'll actually completely disagree with that. Wetsanding is the only way to get extreme oxidation out. Polishing etc will make it look great for awhile and then the beast will come back. Have to get the damage out not cover it up. Now that is more for severe oxidation.

Kyle
11-04-2011, 09:46 PM
Do it right the first time. Wet sand it with 1500 grit. Then use a compound with a polisher. Then use a polish with a polishing pad. Lastly wax with a quality wax. If you don't have time to do it right the first time, then you won't have time to do it right a second time.

Just using Compound with a polisher only is a bandaid fix. It will come back fast.

Nvrgvup
11-04-2011, 09:56 PM
Thanks for the suggestions.

Just don't have the time with the family to dig into it myself as much as I would like to.

Taking it in tomorrow to have the wet sand guy look it over. They work on T&M and really seem knowledgeable. Have to see what they estimate the job at. I have a better "gut" feel with them.

Other lower cost guy is fixed off season price.

Cloaked
11-04-2011, 10:07 PM
Thanks for the suggestions.

Just don't have the time with the family to dig into it myself as much as I would like to.

Taking it in tomorrow to have the wet sand guy look it over. They work on T&M and really seem knowledgeable. Have to see what they estimate the job at. I have a better "gut" feel with them.

Other lower cost guy is fixed off season price. Get that guy to install the hood scoop too... :)

Nvrgvup
11-04-2011, 10:14 PM
Get that guy to install the hood scoop too... :)

...with the leaf blower and nitrous.

02ProstarSammyD
11-04-2011, 10:50 PM
It really doesn't take that long. Grab a buddy or a kid and do it in a day. You'll feel better, know more, and have more $ for :friday:

SunCoast 83
11-04-2011, 11:47 PM
You would also be best served to post pictures of the area in question. I am not sure how oxidized it is without photos if you have them available.

ahhudgins
11-05-2011, 10:59 AM
Do it right the first time. Wet sand it with 1500 grit. Then use a compound with a polisher. Then use a polish with a polishing pad. Lastly wax with a quality wax. If you don't have time to do it right the first time, then you won't have time to do it right a second time.

Just using Compound with a polisher only is a bandaid fix. It will come back fast.

I agree. If the compound doesn't cut deep enough then it will have to be done over again. A light wet sand won't hurt anything and I think you will be happier with the results.

hosofpayne
12-17-2011, 02:17 PM
It's all relative to the condition (as you have described) and what you need. If it were me and the budget allowed, I'd either wet sand it out myself for nothing in labor, or while shelling out money, I'd spring for the wetsand and be done with it. However, you could easily do the compounding yourself and see how that works. Honestly, wetsanding down beyond any oxidation and pitting is the best bet for the long haul... If your oxidation is shallow, you'll have plenty of room to get down to the new look again... and they sure look nice when you get to that point.

Where are you getting the decals?

$0.02

.

Where are you getting decals? mine are off for sanding also?

Jerseydave
12-17-2011, 04:17 PM
Nvrgvup, did you ever get this work done? Wet sand or compound? Any before/after pics?

The metalflake on my 93 needs some attention and since yours is flake too I'd like to know what works for the best results. My only fear would be wet sanding too much past the clear coat and getting into the "flake" part of the gelcoat.

Cloaked
12-17-2011, 04:25 PM
Where are you getting decals? mine are off for sanding also?There are several places that I use but there is a TT member here that has someone to cut their decals and ship them out to you. I just ordered a set yesterday for my boat. I'm going for a new look on a 93 model.....

Contact Jim at 813-996-2297

He has a good source for getting decals cut and is reasonably priced. I paid $208 for the old school font "Mastercraft" (2), a transom decal, the "Prostar 190" sticker (2), and stars (26) (including a few extras).

Your set may be a little cheaper as I have ordered a custom set at the $188. I think the going price that I was quoted is $168. That is not a bad price at all....

There may be cheaper places but all said and done, I think Jim has a good supplier and I have not heard any complaints areound here about the quality.

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