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Teason
11-02-2011, 11:51 AM
So, after 7 years of looking and dreaming, I'm now in the MC Owner's club. So, thanks to all the people who had no idea I was reading and taking advice from this forum before even buying a boat.

So, the new (to me) boat is an '01 Prostar 209 w/ 330 LTR. And, I won't get to take it out until spring (or, if I just can't stand it anymore and we have a nice weekend before then...). Anywho, I got the dealer (out of state) to have a new teak deck sent to me. What size stainless screws should I use to attach it to the brackets? I've also read here a tip by putting 3M weatherstrip adhesive into the predrilled holes before putting the screws in to act as a mild thread-locker/sealer. Also, should I treat the deck before first use? Or just as needed in the future?

a cellphone pic from picking it up:
http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=580&pictureid=3631

Teason
11-03-2011, 07:00 PM
well, after some searching here, i think #12 1.5" should work. any confirmation would be appreciated.

jvbaca
11-03-2011, 07:19 PM
can't help with the mechanical part of this, but I did want to say: Nice boat! Congrats!

dfmaus
11-03-2011, 07:27 PM
I just pulled my deck off(building a complete replacement, as it was covered with failing liner). I took it somewhat apart to take measurements. It was attached to brackets with #12 1 1/2 stainless screws. Internally it used #10 1 1/14. I ordered screws from Grainger, cause I needed a lot of the #10s, but you can find them in small quantities at Home Depot.

I'll post pics of rebuilt deck when done.

well, after some searching here, i think #12 1.5" should work. any confirmation would be appreciated.

Cloaked
11-03-2011, 07:27 PM
Nice looking machine.

I'd leave the fiberglass platform on it. Teak requires to much maintenance for me and teak oil is tracked in the boat and on your clothes... But it looks nice.

I'd put silicone in any screwhole. Shock has no relevance to a #12 screw in an even smaller hole.

.

Lars
11-03-2011, 07:34 PM
I've got teak all taken apart rehabbing it filling the holes with teak plugs. Let me know if you want pics of the screws.

Teason
11-03-2011, 07:48 PM
Thanks for the replies/compliments. Cloaked, it is set up for teak, but dealer lost the deck on a test drive! Forgot to check and see if pins were in (they weren't). It's too bad as the old deck was in really good shape. But, new one for me is ok, too.

Teason
11-03-2011, 07:50 PM
Lars, yeah, pics would be great--curious to see what all you're doing and how you're doing it.

Thrall
11-03-2011, 07:50 PM
#12 for sure.
Length of the OE screws in both of the decks I've taken off/installed were only long enough to grab the backing board and not the deck board. Last one I installed, I bought long enough to go into the top board as well. Just make sure they are a good 1/4" short of poking through when tightened. After a few sanding and tighteneing excercises you can get a point of a screw showing otherwise.
I did not use any adhesive/silicone on the last deck and it held tight all summer. Just pre-drill the right dia and depth.

Cloaked
11-03-2011, 08:32 PM
Thanks for the replies/compliments. Cloaked, it is set up for teak, but dealer lost the deck on a test drive! Forgot to check and see if pins were in (they weren't). It's too bad as the old deck was in really good shape. But, new one for me is ok, too.A nice looking macine, none the less. New is good too. Best regards...

Teason
11-03-2011, 09:00 PM
Thrall, that's the exact answer i was looking for. Thanks!

dfmaus
11-04-2011, 10:00 AM
Thrall, with regards to my deck build, I was planning on using epoxy - but, it did seem clear that the original deck did not have any kind of adhesive in place, just the screws. I may go with a small amount, just for my peace of mind - I was a little concerned that too much epoxy would eliminate any flexing.

Is there usually no epoxy/adhesive used in your experience?

I posted a pic of one of the middle bottom supports - with the lovely liner still attached. I've decided I can't save the existing deck - the top is absolutely coated in glue.

Any advice welcomed!


well, after some searching here, i think #12 1.5" should work. any confirmation would be appreciated.

#12 for sure.
Length of the OE screws in both of the decks I've taken off/installed were only long enough to grab the backing board and not the deck board. Last one I installed, I bought long enough to go into the top board as well. Just make sure they are a good 1/4" short of poking through when tightened. After a few sanding and tighteneing excercises you can get a point of a screw showing otherwise.
I did not use any adhesive/silicone on the last deck and it held tight all summer. Just pre-drill the right dia and depth.

Thrall
11-04-2011, 12:15 PM
Thrall, with regards to my deck build, I was planning on using epoxy - but, it did seem clear that the original deck did not have any kind of adhesive in place, just the screws. I may go with a small amount, just for my peace of mind - I was a little concerned that too much epoxy would eliminate any flexing.

Is there usually no epoxy/adhesive used in your experience?

I posted a pic of one of the middle bottom supports - with the lovely liner still attached. I've decided I can't save the existing deck - the top is absolutely coated in glue.

Any advice welcomed!

My '96 had no glue or epoxy in the holes. That one came loose from wear and tear and I used some gorilla glue in some pretty stripped out holes as a temp fix......and it held for years, never did take it back apart.
My 06 had a 'glass deck, no adhesive in those holes. Had a couple stripped/missing screws that I put some 3M 5200 in the hole and then re-drilled. They held great in the fiberglass deck.
The teak deck I boght used to replace it (on the 06) appeared to have only been installed once, also had no adhesive or epoxy in the holes. I just extended the pilot holes a bit longer to grab both deck boards and installed the screws, so far so good. Certainly couldn't hurt to use a dab of wood glue like thread'locker though.
If you have some questionable holes where the threads are getting stripped out, I'd use something designed to bond to wood. EIther fill the holes and then re-drill pilot holes or squirt some gorilla glue in the hole and snug up the screws. The glue should bond better to the wood (re-threading the hole effectively) and allow you to tighten more, later.

Lars
11-05-2011, 02:04 PM
Here are a few pics from my teak. In the first picture, the piece going up and down normally mounts just to the left where the wood is dark. Second picture shows the same thing with the bracket on top. Third picture shows the mounting screws. The smaller screw connects the cross member to the deck, and the large screw connects the cross member to the bracket (hopefully you can follow my terminology)

In case you're wondering, the screws pulled through so I'm drilling out the holes and have filled with teak plugs.
72695

72696


72697

Cloaked
11-05-2011, 02:51 PM
Also, should I treat the deck before first use? Or just as needed in the future?

I'd treat it to season it before water, however I am not a fan of taking care of my own teak (pressure washed once a year). Season it before water, then keep it treated with oil. I would think the manufacturer would include recommendations for keeping the platform in good condition.

Just remember, oil from the platform goes on your clothes and feet, back into the boat... :D


.

mikeg205
11-05-2011, 03:30 PM
So, after 7 years of looking and dreaming, I'm now in the MC Owner's club. So, thanks to all the people who had no idea I was reading and taking advice from this forum before even buying a boat.

So, the new (to me) boat is an '01 Prostar 209 w/ 330 LTR. And, I won't get to take it out until spring (or, if I just can't stand it anymore and we have a nice weekend before then...). Anywho, I got the dealer (out of state) to have a new teak deck sent to me. What size stainless screws should I use to attach it to the brackets? I've also read here a tip by putting 3M weatherstrip adhesive into the predrilled holes before putting the screws in to act as a mild thread-locker/sealer. Also, should I treat the deck before first use? Or just as needed in the future?

a cellphone pic from picking it up:
http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=580&pictureid=3631

very nice...congrats...smack dab in the middle of kansas...do I dare guess? buhler?

Teason
11-06-2011, 03:01 PM
I meant generally that KS is smack dab in the middle of the US. I live in Andover. If you know of Buhler you must also hail from KS?

mikeg205
11-06-2011, 07:06 PM
no...lol...I am from southwest chicagoland..plainfield, il...have some business contacts in that one horse town...but come to think of it...last time I was there in the early summer...I did not see the horse...