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View Full Version : 1996 Prostar 190 on-going general refurbish


Jeffer
10-30-2011, 09:06 PM
One of my good friends bought a 1996 Prostar, new, back in that year and he and one other of my friends hit the local N.E. lakes pretty regularly to ski together. Many early mornings glass-lake outings later I moved from N.E. to the west coast, and although I'd had several boats in the past, I never owned a Mastercraft, but loved his boat. After getting settled in we purchased a cabin in the mountains near a lake, and so I began my search for a fairly low-hours 95-96 Mastercraft that I could enjoy, and as much as I'd hoped it might not need much TLC, I knew given the years I was looking at I would probably find one that needed some work. Since I love working on nearly anything and everything I buy to bring it to new-like condition rather than spend a ton on new, I was ready for what I might find.

After looking at a lot of junk, I found a '96 Prostar 190 LT1 in the high desert with about 500 hours, and it was pretty much what I expected condition-wise. I'm still working on this boat here and there but have made a lot of progress. And because I used this forum So much once I bought the boat to get as much insider info as I could, I wanted to give back some on my experiences with some dialog and pictures that might help someone else as much as you all helped me (thanks guys). Sometimes it's tough to carve out a weekend to write and post with all the family challenges.

So here's what I got to work with. The hull and outside of the boat is pretty clean, but does need some minor gel coat repairs that I'll do in the spring, and I'll add to this post as I do more.

Inside carpeting is pretty tough as you can see, and upholstery is pretty faded (although not torn anywhere):

Jeffer
10-30-2011, 09:12 PM
So I pulled all the carpeting and found a local marine carpet guy who would do the entire job at a better price than my time allowed me to do (I saved some cash by pulling it myself). Iof course I found a spongy aluminum floor and learned that this isn't unusual, so I cut marine plywood, covered it in fiberglass resin, and added aluminum edging on the bottom rail plus added stick-on foam to keep it quiet and that brought the height right to the normal floor level. Here are some pictures of that repair and the replacement carpeting installed:

Jeffer
10-30-2011, 09:18 PM
And speaking of spongy flooring, so was the rear seat - same aluminum problem. I'd love to have eliminated wood from the floor and seat, but I'd love to spend an hour in the backseat of a Bentley with Kate Bekinsale, but that's not going to happen either, so I pulled all the upholstery from the rear seat, and used the base to cut another piece of marine plywood, carefully rounding the edges to protect the new upholstery (when I got that project started next). I used resin and fiberglass cloth on the seat to make sure it was substantial, and used all the existing support pieces, but just added them to the wood rear seat base:

Jeffer
10-30-2011, 10:10 PM
There have been a LOT of postings on upholstery replacement, and although I think there are better options out there, I went with Copycats. I was able to change any colors I wanted within their choices without adding cost, the cost increased if I changed patterns. I will say I had several challenges with them, from taking MUCH longer than they quoted to having the rear side pieces sent back twice because they made some really dumb mistakes (although I won't bore anyone here). The best advice I can give is to make SURE you have a LOT of time out of the water before starting that project, especially if you go with them, as they may make some mistakes. And in fairness to them, they really did make everything right in the end even though a couple people I worked with are no longer there and wound up being gone mid-project for me.

I went with a hunter green, sand, and black combo with some minor blue piping and kept the same patterns as original. The colors look great with the carpet I picked, I think, and the quality of the material was very good. It's a very time-consuming project, and takes a ton of stainless staples and a hot day (to make the fabric really pliable), but I'd never done it before and figured it out. By the end of the project, I wouldn't think twice about doing it again (although PULLING all the old staples really stinks and takes a while). I would be happy to share more details about that experience if anyone wants to hear.

Biggest job was finding that the side panels were dry-rotted and again, I had to make new ones from 1/4" marine plywood, and I covered these with fiberglass resin as well so I wouldn't worry about moisture anytime soon.

Jeffer
10-30-2011, 10:17 PM
And here's the new side panel with the upholstery in process. I reinforced the side panels with some fiberglass cloth around the speaker cut-outs since it's a pretty close cut and that where the biggest rot and cracks were on the original panels:

Jeffer
10-30-2011, 10:23 PM
After I finished the rear seat, I made a block and covered it with left over carpeting so it sits on the floor in the center under the seat - so if my kids crawl off the back and step on the seat (and pretty much everyone INCLUDING my kids does this), it'll be supported in the center and won't crack. It takes up no room at all and works great.

Jeffer
10-30-2011, 10:29 PM
And the front seats and side panels installed. The speakers are Kicker 6200's, but the stereo will be installed over the winter. I have an Alpine IDA-X100M head with an Apline PDX-5M amp and Alpine SMR-M100 base with remote module all ready to go in.

Jeffer
10-30-2011, 10:35 PM
And lastly (so far), as it's going into storage, I pulled the dash panels. I have all new gauges to replace the current ones, and I'm probably going to replace the panels themselves. I have a few ideas (if I opt to make new ones as opposed to cleaning up and refurbishing the ones I have) before putting in the new gauges. And as you can see from this picture, the mounting nuts from the center console are all pulled or the dash itself it ripped/broken. I think a few of you have had this problem (go over a wake and the dash panel witht he speedos pops out of the dash itself). I have an idea here to make an aluminum backing for the panel, and as spring approaches I'll complete that repair and post it (assuming it comes out ok). Pulling the panels prior to storage gives me something to put on my workbench so I can keep busy since the boat is in a storage building up on a rack and I can't access it very easily over the winter.

Bouyhead
10-31-2011, 07:08 AM
Very nice work Jeffer! Are you running a Porter Cable staple gun in this pic and what size staples are you using?

72538

mikeg205
10-31-2011, 10:33 AM
nice work and nice advice...my 95 PS205 has a few more years on the carpeting...but I know I will probably have to replace the floor panel behind the dog house soon.

Jeffer
10-31-2011, 12:24 PM
yes, a Porter Cable, picked it up new on EBay and was going to sell it when I got done, but they're cheap enough to keep on the shelf. 5/8' stainless staples, and the best place I found was fastenerusa.com to get staple supplies

NatesGr8
10-31-2011, 12:31 PM
I love threads like this. Please keep it going and keep us updated as your time allows. Good stuff!

Nate

Sodar
10-31-2011, 12:56 PM
I did the same thing with the back seat when my '96 190 seat caved. The wood lasted in the boat exactly 1 month before I ordered a sheet of that honeycomb aluminum and made the seat out of that. I laminated 2- 3/4" sheets pf plywood together to get it strong enough to support the weight, but it was just too stinkin' heavy. It looks like you added a center block to support the seat in the middle and allowed yourself to make the seat bottom out of a single sheet of 3/4". A much better idea than mine!

Also, I had a few of those threaded inserts pull out of the dash. I ended up drilling them out and putting in well nuts I got from McMaster Carr. It looks like your dash is torn around the inserts, so it might just be easier to pull the WHOLE dash out of the boat and install fender washers and nuts on the back side of the dash. This is the way the newer dash panels are installed.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#well-nut-inserts/=eqc7yz

Sodar
10-31-2011, 01:04 PM
Last and final.... Sorry. :eek:


It looks like the carpeted panel at the back seat (behind and below) is installed upside down. If I remember correctly, the notches at the floor are supposed to be on top...

Everything looks great! That carpet looks nice and thick, but very durable. Nice choice!

shepherd
10-31-2011, 03:01 PM
I love threads like this. Please keep it going and keep us updated as your time allows. Good stuff!

Nate

What he said ^^^

Great job!

Jeffer
10-31-2011, 03:59 PM
Thanks Sodar -you are spot on with the dash. They are pulled completely out in a few places, so I appreciate the suggestion (THAT'S why I love you guys). And you may be right about the rear panel. It was out so long when I was doing the work that I just tried lining up holes...with everything in, it didn't seem to matter.

The rear seat is definitely heavy but seems very strong. When I have it up in the lounge position I worry, but my wife is the only one using it there (and she's 103 pounds on a heavy month! I wouldn't say that to her, if you get my drift).

I'm down the 405 from you, if you ever are in Big Bear you'll have to look me up...

Cloaked
10-31-2011, 10:20 PM
Nice looking project Jeff. Keep the thread updated as you make progress, please. The interior looks nice....

Jeffer
11-01-2011, 02:06 AM
Thanks Cloaked!

03geetee
11-01-2011, 08:21 PM
Looking great man keep it up I love seeing these projects!

JTR

Jeffer
11-02-2011, 01:29 AM
My family thanks you all.
:D

Jeffer
05-17-2012, 06:15 PM
Not sure what the former owner was thinking, but all the screws pulled from the brackets so he put some random welcome mat pad on the platform, then drilled holes through the fiberglass and into the brackets. On top of that, there were many dock dings in the corners and edges - pretty much everything you'd expect from a 1996.
So I started the project by removing the brackets and repainting them, then removing the pad with a scraper and using gel coat repair for the bashed corners. I wet sanded the areas and sprayed them white (I did not need to cover the center section since I was replacing the pad). I ordered a template kit from Seadek and drew out what I wanted, sent it back along with my color choices (to match the new interior). While I was waiting, I reused the existing bolts into the old brackets, but set them deeper on top and leveled the top with gel coat as well.
Once the pad came (that took about 5 weeks), I watched their easy-to-follow video instructions to clean and apply it, and got a great-looking finished platform. The pad was $220 (you get a credit for the template once you order your pad). I'd have preferred a teak one, but I'm keeping what I got. Next projects are the bimini top canvas replacement and the dash/gauges, which I'll post as well.

Jeffer
07-05-2012, 08:05 PM
So in my on-going effort to post (as a thanks for everyone's help to me) and help others, here's some work I did on my dashboard. When I purchased the boat, a few of the dash panel star nuts for the screws had pulled out of the rubberized dash itself (particularly on the speedo/tach panel). as you can see in the photo. I tried searching the forum for anyone that had repaired this as I figured it had to be a common issue. Also, the plastic hold-down strips on the leading edge of the dash were both broken, so the part of the dash closest to the windshield lifted up and down. If you haven't removed the dash, it's not hard but takes time. After removing the panels (label everything!) there are a couple screws on either side of the inside dash itself screwed into the fiberglass, and the steering wheel and teleflex steering assembly has to be removed from the dash as there are three screws through the tilt wheel assembly that hold the dash to the boat. Also there are two screws up under the leading edge of the dash.

Jeffer
07-05-2012, 08:33 PM
For the holes completely broken out, I cut pieces of a DVD case (roughly the same thickness of the dash) and PC7 epoxy'ed them into place after drilling a hole and setting the star nuts (I had them all, still stuck on the dash panel screws) into the holes and aligning them. After the epoxy dried, I cut pieces of fiberglass cloth and glassed them on the backside to further strengthen them (I thought I had taken pictures of that, but hadn't). Also, I cut strips of thick gasket material and Gorilla Glued them to the portions of the dash where the forward attachment pieces were, then laid fiberglass cloth and fiberglass over the glued section. This gave me a flexible "bracket" to attach to the inside of the dash to strengthen the mounting at the front edge of the dash.

Jeffer
07-05-2012, 08:40 PM
Now I wanted to update the old look of the dash panels, and really didnít want to just paint them. I searched on the web for a company that could give them a new look, and I found Tecnografic in Florida (search them). I had written to them, and Marc responded and at my request sent me a sample of a carbon fiber panel that I was thinking of after looking at the website. It came pretty fast, and I realized that with my interior colors and new gauge colors, the carbon fiber just didnít look right, so I had them do it in Maserati Burl. They can silkscreen labels, and I had that done for the engine and transmission warning lights, but I replaced all the switches with labeled ones so I didnít need those panels silkscreened. The panels came back fast and an absolutely amazing job was done! Iím not sure exactly what the process is that they use, but Iíll attach a picture to show the quality of the returned panel even at the edges. Once installed, they look great coupled with all new Teleflex gauges and Carling switches, as you can see. I have a new wheel on order that closely matches the burlwood look, and I canít wait to get that installed, along with a depth gauge thatís sitting on my bench waiting for a location TBD.

mikeg205
07-05-2012, 10:07 PM
nice.... very nice...

did you use the original star nuts? tried finding those but no luck - do they have a different name?

Cloaked
07-05-2012, 10:25 PM
nice.... very nice...

did you use the original star nuts? tried finding those but no luck - do they have a different name?
I found an alternate solution to the inserts of which you have inquired. It is a common expandable/compressable rubber grommet type insert that I found at the local hardware store. Worked very well for me on a 93 dash...same situation....

Jeffer
07-05-2012, 10:28 PM
I used the original star nuts and just epoxy'ed them back in place. I like the expandable compressable idea, though, Cloaked. There was so much broken out of my dash that I figured I'd have to rebuild the hole anyway. Time will tell if it's a solid-enough fix to withstand some bumpy water days. If it doesn't, I'll be posting another attempt NEXT winter!

mikeg205
07-05-2012, 10:33 PM
Thanks cloaked and jeffer...I planning a dash refurb in the near future...was going to do it this year but would have to replace all switches...the plastic tabs on the tabs holding in the switches have lost all pliability and crack as soon as any pressure is applied to pop the switch.

all works looks decent....will save the project for a year or two...

Jeffer
07-05-2012, 10:48 PM
I had found www.newwiremarine.com for labeled switches, pretty much anything I needed switch-wise for the dash and they were great to order from (small shop, not much on their site except some electrical stuff for boats). I had a hard time finding a site that had the switches I wanted, so if that helps, save that site somewhere. MOST everything was fairly plug and play except nav/anc which had a little different pin layout than stock, plus if you have a bilge with on/off/on, the one on their site is on/off, so in order to get the auto bilge, you need to buy a different switch (on/off/on) and the bilge switch cap.

catamount
07-06-2012, 10:58 AM
That burl looks so damn nice! Great choice. Beautiful boat.

Thrall
07-06-2012, 11:27 AM
Excellent job!
Makes me wish I still had my 96 190.

_fng_
07-06-2012, 02:30 PM
Wow! Great job revitalizing this boat, it makes me feel like I'm neglecting my boat. Thanks for the motivation and ideas!

Dylan
07-06-2012, 05:06 PM
Great looking boat. Is that Big Bear Lake?

occva
07-06-2012, 07:13 PM
Would you want to sell the old gauges? I need to replace the ones in my 86.

Jeffer
07-07-2012, 01:29 AM
Dylan, yep, Big Bear, we have a cabin up there and that's where the boat stays. Very sharp eye or way too familiar with the area, one way or another.
Hey occva, I was actually going to throw them up on here to see if anyone wanted/needed them. For the most part they are in pretty good shape, speedos both worked but they are the most sun-dulled. Everything else, with the exception of the clock, worked when I pulled them out and are in pretty good overall shape. If you are looking for specific ones, let me know and I can snap a few pics and send 'em your way.

Jeffer
07-07-2012, 01:33 AM
And by the way, thanks for all the compliments and feedback. Makes it all worthwhile to take the time to post when you all throw in a note!

Philscbx
07-07-2012, 04:46 AM
I ordered a template kit from Seadek
sent it back along with my color choices (to match the new interior).
and got a great-looking finished platform. Man that Looks Great.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=78979&stc=1&d=1337289235

occva
07-07-2012, 09:58 AM
Hey occva, I was actually going to throw them up on here to see if anyone wanted/needed them. For the most part they are in pretty good shape, speedos both worked but they are the most sun-dulled. Everything else, with the exception of the clock, worked when I pulled them out and are in pretty good overall shape. If you are looking for specific ones, let me know and I can snap a few pics and send 'em your way.

I would be interested in all except clock. Does the tach work? Noticed it is hung up around 2000 rpm in picture. You can pm me and let me know what you are looking to get.

Thanks,
Todd

Dylan
07-09-2012, 01:18 PM
Dylan, yep, Big Bear, we have a cabin up there and that's where the boat stays. Very sharp eye or way too familiar with the area, one way or another.
Hey occva, I was actually going to throw them up on here to see if anyone wanted/needed them. For the most part they are in pretty good shape, speedos both worked but they are the most sun-dulled. Everything else, with the exception of the clock, worked when I pulled them out and are in pretty good overall shape. If you are looking for specific ones, let me know and I can snap a few pics and send 'em your way.

I only go up there in the winter, but recognized the surroundings. I'd love to hear your input on Big Bear and how it is for watersports.

Also as one of the few Southern California people on this board, if you ever need a pull around San Diego let me know. We go out regularly in the Spring, then the boat spends the summer/fall out on Lake Havasu, Mohave, and in between.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-09-2012, 01:34 PM
Great work Jeffer!:cool:

mattb
07-09-2012, 09:05 PM
This boat looks awesome! I would never have thought to do the interior in that color scheme, but it turned out really nice. Love the dash panels and swim platform! Well done.

milkmania
07-09-2012, 09:29 PM
great looking projects!

Philscbx
07-10-2012, 12:43 AM
Sure Looks Great. Love the colors - and what a Dash.

I missed the details somewhere on the makeover of the swim platform-
The source for the material used -
And what was used to repair the chipped out area - I assume epoxy.
Then Painted with Epoxy? I have a second MC, an older S&S in makeover mode.


Thought I'd throw out a tip - for making new battery cables look better than factory crimp.
For the heavy welding cable - which is the best cable in natural heavy duty rubber jacket -
I modified an old pair of bolt cutters.
Grinding a formed hole in the jaws works better than a $350 crimper.
There's enough space on the jaws to make 2 sizes needed - or making a two step crimp.

Jeffer
07-10-2012, 06:49 PM
Hey Philscbx - on the swim platform I used fiberglass to fill the cracks/breaks and sanded first with a wheel, then by hand and fine paper. I painted with auto epoxy (white) and didn't worry too much about the color match since the SeaDek pad covered most of the surface area anyway and it was only the edges you see that were exposed.

Jeffer
07-11-2012, 01:13 AM
Hey Dylan - we are in Big Bear pretty close to every weekend (except kid's basketball games) through the winter skiing, and try to get there almost as much come summertime for the lake. It's ok, fairly weedy, but very good weekdays and mornings/evenings for a pull (see picture, but I'm alone this particular evening otherwise someone would be back there :)). Weekend mid-day is pretty rough so good for pulling the kids on the tube. Thanks for the SD invite, rarely there to be honest. I have not taken my boat out of BB even though I'd love to do the Havasu trip as I have friends that vacation there every summer.

SkiDog
07-11-2012, 05:44 PM
Hey Dylan - we are in Big Bear pretty close to every weekend (except kid's basketball games) through the winter skiing, and try to get there almost as much come summertime for the lake. It's ok, fairly weedy, but very good weekdays and mornings/evenings for a pull (see picture, but I'm alone this particular evening otherwise someone would be back there :)). Weekend mid-day is pretty rough so good for pulling the kids on the tube. Thanks for the SD invite, rarely there to be honest. I have not taken my boat out of BB even though I'd love to do the Havasu trip as I have friends that vacation there every summer.

Great project! And the results look great. I've made a few engine cover vents/drinkholders for a few people on here, and thought you might like to see one. With the wood I use, and the interior color you have, it would be BEAUTIFUL! I think this would make a great addition to your boat.;););)

Jeffer
07-14-2012, 02:12 AM
Hey Skidog, that's pretty cool! Actually, I am right in the middle of working on that piece, it was old and beat up and I refurbished it once but did not like the way it came out and I'm taking another shot at it, to be honest. I actually had measured it out for a possible wood replacement, then thought about making it out of aluminum and sending it to the same guys that did my dash panels and have them do the same burl, and install my Alpine remote into it too. Yours does look good, I will admit!

mattb
07-14-2012, 09:17 AM
jeffer, let me know how yours turns out if you go that route. I re-did mine over the winter. It was all cracked up in spots so I had to reinforce some spots with some fiberglass, bondo, and then repaint it. It looks good, but overall the plastic is getting brittle. Would love to hear about what this company your working with can do for you!

Pic for reference -

Jeffer
07-16-2012, 12:34 PM
I tried painting mine with plastic patio furniture paint, but the vinyl covering caused the paint to never get 100% dry, it stayed slightly sticky to the touch. So Mattb, how did you get that to work? It looks like you took that vinyl off maybe?

mattb
07-16-2012, 05:36 PM
I tried painting mine with plastic patio furniture paint, but the vinyl covering caused the paint to never get 100% dry, it stayed slightly sticky to the touch. So Mattb, how did you get that to work? It looks like you took that vinyl off maybe?

Luckily, the previous owner did the hard work of getting all the old vinyl residue off. I'm really not sure how he accomplished this. Duplicolor makes a vinyl-specific paint that would probably work perfect for this application.

Jeffer
07-17-2012, 02:21 PM
Got the week off, and added the steering wheel to match up with the refurbished dashboard. So outside of installing the Loran depth gauge and Alpine stereo and amp, at least this is done and it looks great.
Steering wheel came from Foreversharp (website), very easy install since you can order pretty much any wheel and the Grant/Momo adaptor and use your existing spline hub. Not expensive, and not as nice as a Grant wheel, but good enough and looks really good with the burl dash panels.

mattb
07-30-2012, 12:18 PM
looks great!

kyfooter
08-07-2012, 09:42 PM
Amazing! Great vision Jeffer! The dash and steering wheel look fantastic...as does everything else you've done. I'm usually a fan of keeping things original, but you're work is outstanding.

charrison327
08-08-2012, 12:02 AM
Looks awesome! You've done a fantastic job.

carlsonwa
08-08-2012, 01:08 AM
Now I wanted to update the old look of the dash panels, and really didnít want to just paint them. I searched on the web for a company that could give them a new look, and I found Tecnografic in Florida (search them). I had written to them, and Marc responded and at my request sent me a sample of a carbon fiber panel that I was thinking of after looking at the website. It came pretty fast, and I realized that with my interior colors and new gauge colors, the carbon fiber just didnít look right, so I had them do it in Maserati Burl. They can silkscreen labels, and I had that done for the engine and transmission warning lights, but I replaced all the switches with labeled ones so I didnít need those panels silkscreened. The panels came back fast and an absolutely amazing job was done! Iím not sure exactly what the process is that they use, but Iíll attach a picture to show the quality of the returned panel even at the edges. Once installed, they look great coupled with all new Teleflex gauges and Carling switches, as you can see. I have a new wheel on order that closely matches the burlwood look, and I canít wait to get that installed, along with a depth gauge thatís sitting on my bench waiting for a location TBD.

Wow that looks super clean! I need a dash spruce up like that. Where did you find the new style switches?

Jeffer
08-14-2012, 12:41 AM
Hey guys - thanks. I am typically a fan of keeping things "stock", but it really needed a refresh on the dash, especially, and I must like it because I keep looking at it while I'm pulling!
The best place I found for the Contura rocker switches was www.newwiremarine.com. They had everything I needed, we're great to work with, were great pricing, and shipped fast. To be perfectly honest, the main reason I did that was because silk-screening the dash labels was about $200 more, and they would need some type of label. They were looking old anyway, so I killed 2 birds and saved money doing it...I didn't need mounting panels for the switches, by the way, they fit perfectly.

mikeg205
08-14-2012, 02:00 AM
Jeffer - thanks for the documentation and leg work and sharing all the resources. I was going to find an older boat than my '95 to restore. But after seeing what you did, I think will draft out a plan just to do mine. If my dash looked like yours I would be also looking at it while I was towing.

Very nice work.

Jeffer
08-14-2012, 02:44 AM
Thanks mgorczak1! That's a solid compliment. You'll have to post it!

ray-man
08-21-2012, 09:34 AM
Can you give me contact information for "Copycats" to get a quote on upholstery replacement for 2000 prostar 205v
Thanks ray-man

milkmania
08-21-2012, 04:45 PM
jeffer, let me know how yours turns out if you go that route. I re-did mine over the winter. It was all cracked up in spots so I had to reinforce some spots with some fiberglass, bondo, and then repaint it. It looks good, but overall the plastic is getting brittle. Would love to hear about what this company your working with can do for you!

Pic for reference -

looks great:headbang:

Jeffer
08-21-2012, 05:32 PM
Hey Ray-man, go to www.copycatcovers.com, that'll get you started. I have no idea who's there now, I'm sure anyone I worked with is gone outside of the manager who I wound up with at one point.

You need to stay on them, though. They will quote pretty fast, usually with an incentive to buy sooner.
Good luck,

Jeffer
08-04-2013, 06:19 PM
I know there are a bunch of threads here on replacing cup holders, and those custom ones are pretty cool. I started this before anyone posted anything cooler, so those are worth checking out (Kyle's are cool for sure).
Anyway, here's what I did for a refurb of my existing one, pretty cheap and it came out great to match my dashboard work. Started with peeling the vinyl off the plastic and sanded off all the vinyl glue.Then I filled all the existing holes and cracks with black Plastex, primer and body filler to smooth out the imperfections, and re-drilled the mounting holes. I used the cover for a pattern, cut a piece of aluminum, with a center gauge hole, and sent that to the same guy that dipped my dash panels, so it would match.

Jeffer
08-04-2013, 06:25 PM
I sprayed the cup holder assembly with textured paint, then sprayed with hunter green paint to match the interior green, replaced the cup holders themselves, and added an Alpine remote control for the stereo I just added. Came out pretty good, matches my dash perfectly, and the ONLY downside is that the air temp option in the remote control picks up the engine temp, not the air. But I never use that feature anyway...

Jeffer
08-04-2013, 06:42 PM
Mounted one Alpine SWR-M100 10" sub in the closed bow area, and mounted my Alpine PDX-5M 5-channel amp directly beside it on panels I fashioned out of marine plywood, left over from my interior side panel replacement. Added a new refreshed cover in the dash and placed my new Alpine IDA-X100M into that, and I am done for the summer (so far)! The remote control for the back seat works great, ran the wires under the floor and added quick connects to the area for the engine cover so I can take the cover off easily. Great system, and even better for those areas that have only one station you can pick up over the antenna - the iPod/iPhone connector gives you full access to your music library from either the marine head, or the remote, with great scrolling and search features. WAY better than my old POS stereo.

Jeffer
08-04-2013, 06:51 PM
Since I had the engine cover up for the remote wiring, I had to touch up those Corvette signs with some fresh paint...was bugging me looking at C E T T E as the only red letters on one side...I think there is some anti-anal meds I could take, isn't there?

Scoco6162
04-26-2014, 02:02 AM
What size plywood did u go with on the back seat. Bout to replace mine and I can't find the spec anywhere. Thx for the help

Jeffer
04-26-2014, 01:45 PM
I went with 3/4" marine plywood, but even with that, you'd need some type of center support to keep it from cracking if someone stepped on it. So far, so good for me, it might be heavier than the aluminum honeycomb, it's been solid and works great.
Good luck!

powerhouse
04-27-2014, 10:07 AM
Great out come...did you have to send the dash panels to them or did they already have the measurements?

Jeffer
04-27-2014, 02:18 PM
Hey Powerhouse - the dash panels were all original, I just shipped them to have them dipped. I didn't build any panels except the cup holder panel.

mikeg205
04-27-2014, 03:44 PM
I sprayed the cup holder assembly with textured paint, then sprayed with hunter green paint to match the interior green, replaced the cup holders themselves, and added an Alpine remote control for the stereo I just added. Came out pretty good, matches my dash perfectly, and the ONLY downside is that the air temp option in the remote control picks up the engine temp, not the air. But I never use that feature anyway...

gorgeous...

Scoco6162
05-08-2014, 01:16 AM
Jeffer. Can't tell you enough on how nice ur boat came out. It's given me a new outlook on my prostar and now I can take all the detailed info u posted as a user guide. Thank you for the inspiration. Two questions. Would like to replace switches on dash. The little push button circuit breakers, did those come out and go back in with any trouble? Any tricks to that? Also. I pulled the vent/cup holders on engine cover to refurbish and found some of the plastic around screw holes have cracked and pieces are gone. Was thinking about using epoxy. Did you use bondo to smooth out
imperfections?etc. thx for the help

Jeffer
05-10-2014, 02:12 PM
Hey Scoco - first, thanks for the compliments! I'm always impressed by the work done by so many people on this forum, and I got inspiration from others myself, so I appreciate being on the other side of that. Makes me glad I spent the time posting for others...well worth paying it forward! So do the same with yours, bud! We all love it (and pictures, please).
All the circuit breakers come out really easy. Label them and the wires. But mine were all ok, but I DID replace the boots (covers), very easy to find at West Marine, Great Lakes Skipper, etc. (and cheap for a bag of them).
On the cup holder, I found some stuff called Plastex (Google it) in black, and repaired all the cracks (and filled the mounting holes) with that stuff. Buy the bigger bottle, the stuff is good. Then I used red finishing putty to smooth it all out and re-drilled the mounting holes. You can see it in the pictures I posted. Worked well for me, seems to be holding well and the Plastex stuff seems to be stronger than any bondo would be. Good luck!

jcn008
06-24-2014, 08:59 PM
Now I wanted to update the old look of the dash panels, and really didnít want to just paint them. I searched on the web for a company that could give them a new look, and I found Tecnografic in Florida (search them). I had written to them, and Marc responded and at my request sent me a sample of a carbon fiber panel that I was thinking of after looking at the website. It came pretty fast, and I realized that with my interior colors and new gauge colors, the carbon fiber just didnít look right, so I had them do it in Maserati Burl. They can silkscreen labels, and I had that done for the engine and transmission warning lights, but I replaced all the switches with labeled ones so I didnít need those panels silkscreened. The panels came back fast and an absolutely amazing job was done! Iím not sure exactly what the process is that they use, but Iíll attach a picture to show the quality of the returned panel even at the edges. Once installed, they look great coupled with all new Teleflex gauges and Carling switches, as you can see. I have a new wheel on order that closely matches the burlwood look, and I canít wait to get that installed, along with a depth gauge thatís sitting on my bench waiting for a location TBD.

If you dont mind me asking, and to save Tecnografic time on quoting me for this, how much did it cost? I have same issues. Looks awesome!

aquaman
06-25-2014, 06:22 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Oga_D8AnNI


Anyone know which country this was done ?

How do you join Wake Club #1 ??

They have their own cheerleaders ! :)