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_fng_
10-30-2011, 08:55 PM
Either I need to upgrade my winch or learn a better way to load my boat cause I've broke 3 different bolts that secure the strap to the winch. I've tried grade 8 and grade 9 (went to a specialty store to get this grade) but they still break.

I'm going to replace the 1400# winch with a fulton 2000# (boat is '97 205) winch as it appears necessary but I'd like to review my loading process to see if anyone sees what I may be doing wrong.

I back the trailer in so the top of the fenders are ~1 inch above the water and I load. My boat buddy rarely works (tried bringing the trailer out of the water more as this has been mentioned in previous posts without much more success) and I usually have to hand winch the last 6-12 inches manually. The strap is 20' long and I don't pull the strap out more than necessary.

Brainstorming ideas that could help resolve this repetitive issue is using "liquid rollers" to reduce the friction of the bunk boards, increase the capacity of the winch but I'm concerned that the bolt that secures the strap is ~1/2" and this seems to be the cause for the stress on the bolt so it may occur again.

Sorry long-winded but would appreciate any insight on this issue. Thanks, Nick

pram
10-30-2011, 09:08 PM
Back the trailer farther in. IMO there is no reason to be putting that much stress on either the boat or the trailer.

We put the trailer in far enough that my wife drives right on until the boat buddy snaps, then I attach the strap to the eye and cinch it up

If you are breaking bolts like that, think of what you are doing to your gel where the boat is on the bunks

Now this is only what we do. May be right may be wrong, I don't know, but it has worked for us

93Prostar190
10-30-2011, 10:02 PM
Boy ... it sounds to me like you are not deep enough ..... but I hate to say that without knowing the steepness of the ramp you frequent .... by the way, you must be a strong dude .... I am imagining all sorts of force through the winch ...

_fng_
10-31-2011, 09:28 PM
Thanks for the responses. I have tried backing the trailer in more but the shallowness of the ramp causes the bow to ride under the boat buddy. Next time I'm out, I'll try playing with how deep I put the trailer in without having this occur.

SkiDog
10-31-2011, 09:30 PM
What Pram said is the way to do it. You should NOT have to turn your winch handle more than about a half turn!

macattack
10-31-2011, 09:45 PM
Thanks for the responses. I have tried backing the trailer in more but the shallowness of the ramp causes the bow to ride under the boat buddy. Next time I'm out, I'll try playing with how deep I put the trailer in without having this occur.

Same issue here, lake is way down, hence shallow ramp. We float the boat up to the boat buddy, hook it up, then pull the vehicle up a foot or so until the bow rises enough to winch it the rest of the way. An extra step, but limits the wear and tear on the bunk sections of the hull/gel...mac

_fng_
10-31-2011, 09:54 PM
Same issue here, lake is way down, hence shallow ramp. We float the boat up to the boat buddy, hook it up, then pull the vehicle up a foot or so until the bow rises enough to winch it the rest of the way. An extra step, but limits the wear and tear on the bunk sections of the hull/gel...mac

I guess a few step process is better than wrenching the heck out of the winch/boat...it's not like there's a line now anyway.

How deep do others usually back the trailer in?

Kyle
11-01-2011, 05:47 AM
Until the water is just over my fenders. Like almost level with my fenders. If your too deep the bunks wont stop the boat from slamming the boat buddy. If you are too shallow you winch or power on way to much and far more than is needed. I say back your rig deeper than what you are doing.

mayo93prostar
11-01-2011, 08:49 AM
the depth of the trailer in the water really depends on the steepness of your ramp but the general rule of thumb is to have the water near the top of the fender. you need to adjust and test to figure out which is best, a little deeper sounds like what you need. I put the trailer in so the top of the fenders are just at water level and my son drives the boat on carefully until the boat buddy clicks. I do not hook the winch strap until the boat is out of the water. My 93 trailer has the center roller towards the front so when the boat gets on this it slides forward easier than when on the bunks.

keith3613
11-01-2011, 09:11 AM
I’ve got a 1984 Stars and Stripes. I replaced the trailer carpet and sprayed it with Liquid Rollers. Then, I waxed the hull of the boat. The boat practically slides off and on the trailer by hand on dry level ground. Matter of fact, I noticed a strange bump while accelerating and braking while pulling the trailer. It was the boat sliding back and forth on the trailer. You make sure you keep the winch and winch strap secure before backing down a boat ramp. Otherwise, the boat will easily slide off of the trailer. I did this after repainting my trailer. Talk about easy loading and un-loading.

pram
11-01-2011, 02:38 PM
Iíve got a 1984 Stars and Stripes. I replaced the trailer carpet and sprayed it with Liquid Rollers. Then, I waxed the hull of the boat. The boat practically slides off and on the trailer by hand on dry level ground. Matter of fact, I noticed a strange bump while accelerating and braking while pulling the trailer. It was the boat sliding back and forth on the trailer. You make sure you keep the winch and winch strap secure before backing down a boat ramp. Otherwise, the boat will easily slide off of the trailer. I did this after repainting my trailer. Talk about easy loading and un-loading.

I gotta be honest, this scares me. The last thing that I want with my boat (wait I don't have a boat but you know what I mean) is to have it that I can push it on and off of the trailer when it is sitting on dry level ground

pram
11-01-2011, 02:39 PM
Until the water is just over my fenders. Like almost level with my fenders. If your too deep the bunks wont stop the boat from slamming the boat buddy. If you are too shallow you winch or power on way to much and far more than is needed. I say back your rig deeper than what you are doing.

I am the same unless the ramp is really steep then I back in a long ways, hook the boat buddy and pull the truck forward then settle it on the trailer in the correct positions

JimN
11-01-2011, 02:57 PM
Either I need to upgrade my winch or learn a better way to load my boat cause I've broke 3 different bolts that secure the strap to the winch. I've tried grade 8 and grade 9 (went to a specialty store to get this grade) but they still break.

I'm going to replace the 1400# winch with a fulton 2000# (boat is '97 205) winch as it appears necessary but I'd like to review my loading process to see if anyone sees what I may be doing wrong.

I back the trailer in so the top of the fenders are ~1 inch above the water and I load. My boat buddy rarely works (tried bringing the trailer out of the water more as this has been mentioned in previous posts without much more success) and I usually have to hand winch the last 6-12 inches manually. The strap is 20' long and I don't pull the strap out more than necessary.

Brainstorming ideas that could help resolve this repetitive issue is using "liquid rollers" to reduce the friction of the bunk boards, increase the capacity of the winch but I'm concerned that the bolt that secures the strap is ~1/2" and this seems to be the cause for the stress on the bolt so it may occur again.

Sorry long-winded but would appreciate any insight on this issue. Thanks, Nick

Don't think about the fenders if the bunks aren't at least halfway submerged. Why can't you get the strap on and somewhat tight, then back it into the water a bit so it's easier on the winch?

_fng_
11-01-2011, 03:04 PM
Don't think about the fenders if the bunks aren't at least halfway submerged. Why can't you get the strap on and somewhat tight, then back it into the water a bit so it's easier on the winch?

The bunks are usually covered except for the front 12-18 inches when the top of the fenders are just above the water. I haven't backed the trailer in further after hooking up in the past as I didn't think it necessary but will so in the future. Thanks for everyone's comments.

FrankSchwab
11-01-2011, 04:05 PM
One thing that might help is to dunk the trailer deeper to cover that last 12-18 inches, getting the carpet nice and wet, before pulling back out to your expected depth. That should help with moving the boat.

/frank

Kevin 89MC
11-02-2011, 03:14 PM
I have started to do what Frank suggested, dunk the bunks all the way and then pull it back out to the proper depth. It does make it easier to slide it on.