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Lumbergh
10-12-2011, 08:07 PM
What is everyone using to remove the 5/16 allen bolts on the risers of the older indmar engines?

A cut down allen key? That is my first idea but wanted to make sure I am not missing something.

The two bolts in the back are tight for clearance.

Allen socket looks to be a no go, I test fit a 5/16 (1/4) socket on there is not enough room for this to work.

TIA!

JimN
10-12-2011, 08:38 PM
What is everyone using to remove the 5/16 allen bolts on the risers of the older indmar engines?

A cut down allen key? That is my first idea but wanted to make sure I am not missing something.

The two bolts in the back are tight for clearance.

Allen socket looks to be a no go, I test fit a 5/16 (1/4) socket on there is not enough room for this to work.

TIA!

Go to a GOOD hardware store and buy a ball-type Allen wrench. They come as an L-shaped wrench or as a straight one that goes on a ratchet wrench.

Jeff d
10-12-2011, 09:16 PM
I had the ball end wrenches but they didn't offer enough of an angle to get them into some of the bolts. I ended up cutting one down. I cut the short end down to about 3/4" just like you said and that worked well.

Lumbergh
10-12-2011, 09:18 PM
I am not the most patient.

So I cut the end off of 5/16 allen (long end) with dremel and used ratcheting 8mm wrench around allen stub to get the bolts off.

Necessity is the mother of invention.

Then I gave the riser a few good smacks with rubber mallet and off she came.

Now to get the seized manifold drain plug out with EZ out or something.

That is the next issue, and the reason I pulled riser.

Cloaked
10-12-2011, 09:20 PM
Glad you got it fixed.
.

JimN
10-12-2011, 09:38 PM
I am not the most patient.

So I cut the end off of 5/16 allen (long end) with dremel and used ratcheting 8mm wrench around allen stub to get the bolts off.

Necessity is the mother of invention.

Then I gave the riser a few good smacks with rubber mallet and off she came.

Now to get the seized manifold drain plug out with EZ out or something.

That is the next issue, and the reason I pulled riser.

Get a can of PB Blaster, scrape the paint and rust at the outer ring of the plug, sprahy a little on and let it sit for about an hour. It's the best penetrating oil I have used.

thatsmrmastercraft
10-12-2011, 11:17 PM
Also helps to tap around the area with a hammer. Anything to get the oil into the threads.

mikeg205
11-19-2011, 05:27 PM
I am not the most patient.

So I cut the end off of 5/16 allen (long end) with dremel and used ratcheting 8mm wrench around allen stub to get the bolts off.

Necessity is the mother of invention.

Then I gave the riser a few good smacks with rubber mallet and off she came.

Now to get the seized manifold drain plug out with EZ out or something.

That is the next issue, and the reason I pulled riser.

Hey Lumbergh...made my own tool like this today too... did you find a source for the hex head bolts?

Jeff d
11-20-2011, 01:43 PM
I just used regular hex head bolts of the same size and length from the hardware store.

Lumbergh
11-20-2011, 02:10 PM
I ordered a riser "kit" from my local boat shop. It was factory INDMAR parts, and included 4 new riser SS hex head bolts, washers and gasket. It was only about $13 or so, I bought 2 since I figured I would do the other side as well.

Very clean install

DooSPX
11-21-2011, 08:20 AM
Lumbergh, That is exactly what I did with a cut off allen and a ratcheting wrench. :D

rjracin240
11-21-2011, 11:41 AM
I used a cutdown allen wrench & a 5/16" dog bone, worked like a champ. When torquing on final assembly make sure you keep your dogbone at 90 degrees to the wrench then you dont have to go into all kinds of calculations to figure out if you need to increase or decrease your torque value. Make sure you use a antiseize on reassembly.
Will try and post pictures later.

mikeg205
11-21-2011, 05:54 PM
I used a cutdown allen wrench & a 5/16" dog bone, worked like a champ. When torquing on final assembly make sure you keep your dogbone at 90 degrees to the wrench then you dont have to go into all kinds of calculations to figure out if you need to increase or decrease your torque value. Make sure you use a antiseize on reassembly.
Will try and post pictures later.

where did you get the dog bone with a torque wrench or are talking about something else?

Lumbergh
11-21-2011, 06:46 PM
I used German torque.

Guddentite.

I try to keep things simple, I am not connecting titanium piston rods or anything.

mikeg205
11-21-2011, 07:17 PM
:cool:I think I will do the same...:cool:

rjracin240
11-28-2011, 11:47 AM
I used German torque.

Guddentite.

I try to keep things simple, I am not connecting titanium piston rods or anything.

Good thing you did not use chineese torque.....pulling on the wrench till the eyes squint:confused:

rjracin240
11-28-2011, 11:52 AM
where did you get the dog bone with a torque wrench or are talking about something else?
Get on TT at work they switched out my computer so I could not post the pictures of a dog bone or otherwise known as a torque adapter. Basically a short boxend wrench with a square for a 3/8" drive ratchet or extension. As long as you keep the adapter 90 degrees to the wrench then you dont have to subtract or add for torque correction. But then again German Torque will probably work fine!!!

mikeg205
11-28-2011, 11:34 PM
Get on TT at work they switched out my computer so I could not post the pictures of a dog bone or otherwise known as a torque adapter. Basically a short boxend wrench with a square for a 3/8" drive ratchet or extension. As long as you keep the adapter 90 degrees to the wrench then you dont have to subtract or add for torque correction. But then again German Torque will probably work fine!!!

Thanks..."guddentite" it will be...:cool: