View Full Version : Audio on a budget
10-11-2011, 07:17 PM
( removed )
10-11-2011, 07:52 PM
I don't wanna thread jack the recent post about a budget install so here is what I am considering:
Alpine CDE 121 (or comparable)
Polk DB651 (x4)
Kicker 10c124 12" Sub
Basic sub enclosure
Amp install kit
From doing a bit of shopping, this looks like $500 +/- a few bucks.
For us, boat season is about 2-3 months per year, so I am trying to balance cost and use (not to mention being a wee past my 20s and the desire to blast myself all occupants of the lake has faded a bit).
I hear you on that brother!!
There's a bunch of guys that are good with stereo gear on here. I'm sure you are going to get a lot of info about what you have and what you might need.
Stay tuned! :D
10-12-2011, 12:27 PM
Samir naga....samir naga.....samir nagaaanna work here anymore
I'd delete the head unit unless you need the radio; just get an Ipod jack which connects directly to the RCA outputs on the amp. Saves space, time, money....
I just bought this amp/speaker combo for $250, (currently looking for the 2 rear speakers)
I've installed many sound systems in cars but never in a boat, how do I secure the amp/speakers to the hull without drilling into the fiberglass? I have a 19ft S&S.
east tx skier
10-12-2011, 12:30 PM
If you don't plan to kill fish with the base, I'd go for a 5 channel Amp. I have a similar setup, but with a smaller sub (closed bow). Sounds great for what I need.
10-12-2011, 01:59 PM
I run four Infinity 6.5" speakers in stock locations off of deck power and have a 10" sub powered by a single channel amp under the bow in a basic enclosure. Sounds great for my needs. Not going to give fish kill but the entire setup was well under $500.
10-12-2011, 02:34 PM
Right now my system kills the fish. But before i add a 1300 watt subwoofer i was running a pretty decent sounding system off the 5 channel sony marine amp. Its about $200 at bestbuy, and will power 4 in boat speakers and a small 10" sub just fine.
I had JL M770 and picked up the JL 10" marine sub. You can use those polk speakers which are much cheaper though ad the JL cost a ton.
10-21-2011, 04:22 PM
Can u give us some info on the head unit that you have inside the boat currently. There are a ton of different ways to get an ipod that don't involve a new head unit.
Two great places for stereo stuff are sonicelectronix and hifisoundconnection. The Polk DB651's if you ask me are the best budget speaker on the market. There are a ton of different ways to do an amp. You can run 4 inboats and a sub off of a 4 channel or you can get a 5 Channel as well. Since you are budgeting I would run a higher powered 4 channel. Much easier to find and with teh 100watt RMS the Db's will want it is much easier to match the RMS with a 4 Channnel. You don't need to have a marine amp. Most people run regular car audio amps.
I recently came across a new MB Quart Onyx 4 channel amp on SonicElectronix for around 169 that would have plenty of power to push the 4 cabins and a sub. It's rated really good. Its a simple design.......No cooling fans,, but in your case being you only boat 3mos out of the year I cant imagine its 100 everday. Also from your statements I assume you arent going to be going full boar pushing the amp to the edge everytime its powered up. The RMS of that amp fits the polks perfectly. I will try and get you the model or link later.
There are so many ways to go and mount amps What boat do you have?
10-21-2011, 05:41 PM
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10-21-2011, 11:45 PM
The way you run a 4 channel to 4 interiors and a Sub is like this.
The amp has 4 channels. 2 front 2 rear. Most amps can handle a 2ohhm load on the channels. So you wire the 2 front speakers to the front left channel and wire the 2 rear speakers to the front rt channel.
This leaves you the 2 rear channels open. You then bridge those two channels to a 4ohm sub. Make sure the sub has a 4ohm resistance level. To bridge the amp shoild have markings........basically you run the positive speaker wire to the rt channel positive and the negative speaker wire to to lft channel negative. Again the AMp should have markings on which should be the positve on one channel and the negative on the other when bridging.
Also being that you are not going to be pushing the amp hard all the time I would strongly ecourage the amp to either match the RMS or be a little over the RMS on the speakers. RMS output of the amp doesnt reach its full potential until the volume is cranked all the way. So if you are running at volum levels under 65-70percent of the total max of the head unit a little more wattage to the speakers wont hurt as long as u tune the amp correctly.
So when you look at an amp you want to know how much RMS goes to a channel at 2ohms. U want at least 200watts rms this way each Polk DB651 speaker when wired together sees 100watts.
Then the next thing you should be concerned with is the bridged wattage. IF you are looking at a 10inch kicker they ar around 200wats RMS at 4ohms. Again its crucial to make sure the sub is a 4ohm sub otherwise the amp will clip out being bridged in 2ohms. Hopefully that makes sense. The other thing I may encourage to add on would be a PAC LC1 control if teh amp doesnt come with a bass remote. You add this little 19 dollar device and you can adjust the the amount of bass going to the sub so when you are listening to the volume a little low you can turn it up to hear a little more punch and then when you want to crank up the volume you can then adjust the sub a little lower so it doesnt make your insides rattle.
You def want a decent head unit upgrade. Just look for one with features you want. I am assuming your radio is next to the steering wheel on the left. I would try and go with a marine unit as I am sure people's wet fingers and condensation from the windshield will def be a factor. Again a ton of different option on a head unit. I would make sure it has at least 2 pre amp outputs.
11-12-2011, 11:58 AM
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11-12-2011, 12:49 PM
This may sound funny or noob, but I measured the speakers in my PS and they measure 6".
Everything I look at and want (Polk 651s) is a 6.5" speaker.
Am I gonna have to hack anything to get this speaker to fit or will the 6.5 work in my factory MC holes (which I have not measured yet, just the speaker itself (the physical speaker minus the grill)).
Yes you are, I had to enlarge the holes on my tri star because of the same reason went from 5.25" factory to 6.5" JL audio
Your speaker is probably a 5.25" and not a 6"
If your hole is 5" or so, Your only option to not to cut is maybe JL audio M650-CCX-CG-WH is a small body 6.5" speaker that mounts in a 5.0 -5.25" hole if according to JL, but they are not cheap about 200 a pair
11-12-2011, 01:09 PM
Keeping in mind that you're on a budget, I'd still get enough amp power to power your speakers up to their full capacity, or close anyway, for a couple reasons.
The db651's are rated at 100Wrms and I'm sure the sub will handle 2-300W easily.
First, an amp(s) that have adequate ouput to run the speakers to their full potential will run much cooler and last longer at moderate volumes. Like putting a 6cyl in your ski boat. You'd have to run it WFO all the time to get what you want out of it.
Second, if you're putting the time and effort into a system, better to do it right, once.
A 300Wx4 amp will give you 37.5Wrms to each speaker and 150Wrms to the sub under ideal conditions (full battery voltage), assuming the watt rating on that amp is rms watts.
I'd search for a deal on 1 good 5 channel or 6 channel amp that will give you at least 75W RMS to each speaker and adequate power to the sub.
Another thing to consider is downsizing the sub. If you don't want big bass then you could use a smaller sub, saving a few bucks there and if you don't have enough power to the sub it won't work as designed anyway.
A JL M6600 amp, 6 channel, 75W/ch would do a good job and last a long time, but is going to run about $300. Like other's said, if your boat is not in a wet (humid, stored outside with a cover, wet all the time) environment look for a comparable car audio amp to save same $.
01-20-2012, 12:41 AM
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01-20-2012, 11:13 AM
Come on. Its a class AB with a 20 amp master fuse. There is no way its 200 watts total.
Find an entry level Alpine V-Power 4-channel. It will never thermal or break. And it will come alot closer to delivering 200 watts. Or, a JL Audio JX360.4 is a good entry level amplifier.
01-20-2012, 05:49 PM
This is reportedly a really good budget 4 ch that will do a legit 180x4 @ 2 ohms:
I'm basing this on this test + a lot of good feedback on audio forums:
I just bought the Polk Audio equivalent of that amp but in a 5 ch. It's pretty nice. I was interested in saving some money and buying the Precision Power but they haven't released their 5 ch yet. Both brands are using the same circuit boards in their class D amps but supposedly with some variation of the components.
I like the DB651 for a budget 6.5. I have 8 on my boat.
01-20-2012, 10:33 PM
Did I miss something?
01-20-2012, 11:02 PM
Did I miss something?
He posted a Pyle marine amp. David said it sucked then I guess the OP deleted that post. I guess he deleted all of his posts in this thread.
01-20-2012, 11:25 PM
Pyle does suck
01-21-2012, 10:05 AM
"sucked" may be too strong of a word. As you can read that wasn't a part of my phrasing. I was just pointing out that the Pyle amplifier does not have a prayer of meeting its specs and I did not want the OP to be misled by those claims. For Plyle to state 1000 watts dynamic, peak, WLS (when lightning strikes), JBF (just before fire) or by any other means is a total deception as is their RMS rating. If the 200 watt RMS rating were to be true then it would have made a good choice for the OP's particular application.
01-24-2012, 08:57 PM
Pyle is poooop tho. Hahaha
01-24-2012, 09:49 PM
Or,"I see!", said the blind man.