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View Full Version : MORE winterization questions (also about Perko Flush Pro)


Dr Mitch
09-17-2011, 10:04 PM
I just purchased a '91 Tristar wih a 351 Indmar
With the season in Ontario coming to a close, I have been reading lots on winterizing.
I will preface with the fact that I am a newbie / moron when it comes to engine maintenance, but I like tinkering and want to learn more about the engine and boat.

So, my questions (that I have not been able to specifically find answers to):

1. I was looking at the Perko Flush Pro to ease winterizing mainly - IF I use it, once i flush antifreeze in, do people then remove all plugs and drain engine thus leaving only a bit of antifreeze and hopefully no water left, or do people leave it in the engfine over winter?

2. If I don't go with a Flush system - what is the easiest way to get antifreez flushing in? I know many people just drain the engine...

3. Fogging - I was planning on fogging through the carb and removing sprak plugs - how do I do the sparl plug part - remove on, spray and then crank engine over with shut off switch engaged? Or just spray it in? Once done all 8, do you replace the spark plugs or leave them off?

4. Is it commonly recommended to block off all intake and exhaust ports. etc?

5. Drain plugs (engine and hull) - I assume they're left off for the winter?

Thanks in advance...

aswile
09-18-2011, 08:21 AM
On my '93 PS205 with the 351 I used the flush pro to start it up in the drive way however I was never able to get enough seal to pull anti-freeze through the system. I just took off the hose from the flush pro and poured anti-freeze directly into the hose while the engine was running. This worked well for 10 years. Before I put anti-freeze in I drained the block and manifolds completely, then filled it up and cracked the highest drain on the block to make sure there was pink stuff throughout.

I never fogged my carbed motor however I did fog the MCX in my new boat (through spark plugs). I had no trouble starting the boat and it did not smoke on start up.

Andy

Dr Mitch
09-18-2011, 10:55 AM
Thanks for the input!
Below is my proposed winterization checklist:
(Will hold off on the Perko system for now)

IN water:
Pour in fuel stabilizer, run boat
Prior to loading on trailer, fog through carb (I understand it may not stall out all the time)
(engine and tranny oil was just changed prior to me purchasing the boat)

OUT of water:
Lift boat
Remove drain plug on hull
Remove drain plugs on engine block, etc
Fog through each of the spark plugs – turn engine over, or just manually crank?
Replace all plugs
MAYBE disconnect raw water hose and pour in antifreeze through engine block (leave in – pink -100 RV stuff)
Dry out and clean bilge area
Grease whatever needs greasing
Disconnect and remove battery
Clean interior
Prop open all seats and storage areas to dry
Prop up engine cover
Spray & Wax hull
Tape up exterior vents (some say no, to allow any condensation a place to escape)
Tape back of exhaust flaps (prevent rodents)
Cover & impatiently wait until spring…

Anyone use those "dehumidifying" buckets you place in the boat during storage?

My boat will be stored outside :(
Ontario - cold but not crazy cold, lot's of snow though...

Thrall
09-18-2011, 12:11 PM
Ontario IS crazy cold when it comes to freezing an engine. People freeze engines in Texas!
Your list is about right, except you forgot "change the oil".
I'd fire it up on the trailer or in the driveway to fog the intake. If you rem the impeller as you should, you can start it long enough to fog thru the intake without damage, or start it on a garden hose to warm up the oil a little and fog then.
Fogging the cyl, I'd bump the engine a couple revs after fogging each plug hole.
No real need to use antifreeeze if drained properly, but good extra insurance.
Rem block drain plugs, exh manifold drain plugs, impeller, raw water hose @ trans cooler, and any other hoses that could have water in them.
If you have a heater, disconnect both lines, blow out and definately pour some antifreeze into the heater as all the water rarely gets out.
Drain everything COMPLETELY and then suck up some AF if you feel the need to. I've seen a couple cracked motors where the owner "just relied on sucking up AF to winterize.
If it's stored where rodents can get to it, tape up ALL holes/vents good. I never have, but the boat's in my garage.
Dessicant sounds like a good idea once the temp swings start producing moisture/condensation.

Personally I wouldn't waste my $ on a Flush Pro. I had a bad experience with one, but they work good for most. Not needed though. Just disconnect the raw water intake line and raise it up and dump the AF in with the engine running.
Don't forget to put a new impeller in it in the spring.

thatsmrmastercraft
09-18-2011, 12:53 PM
I duct tape a piece of 1/4" heavy wire screen over the drain plug so any moisture can get out but no varmints can get in.

03geetee
09-18-2011, 04:15 PM
Dont put new spark plugs in now, wait til you fire it up with the left over fogging oil in the spring, then change in the new plugs.

JTR

thatsmrmastercraft
09-18-2011, 04:28 PM
Dont put new spark plugs in now, wait til you fire it up with the left over fogging oil in the spring, then change in the new plugs.

JTR

A fine point I always follow.

dietdewboy
09-18-2011, 05:00 PM
I use the big bucket of Damp Rid as a final step, really makes a difference is the spring when I remove the cover. Stored mine outside once, never again! You should at least look at having it shrink wrapped.

east tx skier
09-18-2011, 05:18 PM
This is what I do.

Winterization (http://tylerskiclub.com/winterization.html)

Dewinterization (http://tylerskiclub.com/dewinterization.html)

Dr Mitch
09-18-2011, 10:02 PM
Thanks everyone! Great advice.
Am hoping to (eventually) at least put up a temporary garage for it in the winter - and will likely go for the shrink wrapping.

With impellor removed, it's safe to run the engine for a short period of time?

Thrall
09-18-2011, 11:27 PM
Thanks everyone! Great advice.
Am hoping to (eventually) at least put up a temporary garage for it in the winter - and will likely go for the shrink wrapping.

With impellor removed, it's safe to run the engine for a short period of time?

Yes, minute or 2 max is safe.

Kevin 89MC
09-21-2011, 05:45 PM
If you want to run it for longer, I used a trick I learned on here. Pull the intake hose from the hull fitting and stick it into a 5 gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with water from a garden hose, and keep the hose in the bucket. With your impeller still in, start it up and then turn on the hose. My hose with a sprayer on full flow is plenty to keep up with the pump. If you rev it up a bit, though, it is amazing how quick the pump will empty the bucket.
This way you can run it for longer if you need.
Kevin

jonboy688
09-26-2011, 08:37 AM
is it not safe to start the boat in neutral? with the prop on? sorry guys, new at this and will have to go thru these steps in the next month

Dr Mitch
09-26-2011, 06:59 PM
Below is a pic of my proposed "dry lake" - remove raw water hose and put the coupling on with the high pressure hose attached which would then go into a bucket of water / antifreeze.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj195/dr_mitch/1c389a7e.jpg

Kevin 89MC
09-27-2011, 03:27 PM
is it not safe to start the boat in neutral? with the prop on? sorry guys, new at this and will have to go thru these steps in the next month

Make sure you are in neutral. The prop shaft does not appreciate being spun out of the water, or at least mine doesn't. Even in neutral, if you start it "cold" and don't spray the shaft with water where it goes through the hull, the shaft might scream at you as the cold transmision may spin the shaft a bit even in neutral. It's a sound you will only want to hear once, makes a squeaky belt sound pleasant by comparison.
Kevin

Dr Mitch
10-02-2011, 09:28 AM
So I winterized the MC yday. I drained the boat after fogging etc (land lake worked great).
Drain engine and then ran antifreeze through. Was worried about water/antifreeze dilution so I decided to drain the engine.
Removed impeller and this is what I found:
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj195/dr_mitch/0986cdc0.jpg

Also the screw stabilizing the impeller to the mount was broken in the impeller. Glad I removed it!
Anyone know what size screw fits and the rubber "shock absorber" size?

CantRepeat
10-02-2011, 09:39 AM
Be sure to check your cooling system for those lost impeller parts. Anything down stream can collect them, sometimes if your are lucky they come apart in small enough parts that they don't get caught up.

Dr Mitch
10-02-2011, 12:53 PM
I checked the hoses but by sure how to check the rest...

jvbaca
10-02-2011, 02:41 PM
Not to thread jack, but....ok to thread jack :-)

Q: With a closed loop cooling system is it necessary to run RV Pink stuff into the perko flush pro to winterize whatever the raw water is cooling?
What does the water cool v.s. what the antifreeze in the engine cools?
I've done it every year as a precaution (even though I store indoors) but have always wondered if I'm wasting my time?
I'm running the 6.0 LQ9 on a 2005 X45.

swardco
10-26-2011, 06:24 PM
Another newb here. So the question got asked earlier in this thread but I don't think it got answered.

If you have the engine up to operating temp (or thermostat removed) and suck up the pink juice from the raw water intake until the boat is spitting pink juice, do you then pull all the drain plugs, or leave them in?????

My first winterization will be this weekend and I would really like to avoid messing it up, I plan on following the checklist posted in the FAQs.

Cloaked
10-26-2011, 07:00 PM
Another newb here. So the question got asked earlier in this thread but I don't think it got answered.

If you have the engine up to operating temp (or thermostat removed) and suck up the pink juice from the raw water intake until the boat is spitting pink juice, do you then pull all the drain plugs, or leave them in?????

My first winterization will be this weekend and I would really like to avoid messing it up, I plan on following the checklist posted in the FAQs.Matter of opinion and preference. Some say to prime with anti-freeze and then drain, this treating any potential water that may remain in a low spot. Personally, if I am not going to fire up the engine over the winter, I fill and leave it full of anti-freeze. If I know I am engine-tweaking, I'll pull the drain plugs and not worry about it beyond that. Then to tweak, put back in the 5 (for me) open holes, and fire it up, then re-drain. No waste of anti-freeze. And I don't worry about an impeller sitting in a housing over a few months. After 32 years, I have (self-inflicted) lost one impeller, to a fault of my own in the summer.

From your question at hand, I'd fill it and leave it until spring, no need for draining if you have anti-freeze. Make sure the tranny cooler gets fed.

.

east tx skier
10-26-2011, 07:17 PM
If you drain it, you don't get the corrosion inhibition that antifreeze provides. If you go to the trouble of putting antifreeze in the block, my vote is to leave it in. If you are going to drain, skip the antifreeze altogether and just pull the boat around on the trailer up and down hills for 10 minutes or so to get the water to drain thoroughly.

Dr Mitch
10-26-2011, 09:36 PM
I've heard you can do both - many will leave the antifreeze in.
I was still worried that I may not have gotten all water out, so i removed the plugs and drained my engine of antifreeze just in case.

swardco
10-27-2011, 10:37 AM
Matter of opinion and preference. Some say to prime with anti-freeze and then drain, this treating any potential water that may remain in a low spot. Personally, if I am not going to fire up the engine over the winter, I fill and leave it full of anti-freeze. If I know I am engine-tweaking, I'll pull the drain plugs and not worry about it beyond that. Then to tweak, put back in the 5 (for me) open holes, and fire it up, then re-drain. No waste of anti-freeze. And I don't worry about an impeller sitting in a housing over a few months. After 32 years, I have (self-inflicted) lost one impeller, to a fault of my own in the summer.

From your question at hand, I'd fill it and leave it until spring, no need for draining if you have anti-freeze. Make sure the tranny cooler gets fed.

.

Hate to be this slow, but how do I "make sure the tranny cooler gets fed"?

thatsmrmastercraft
10-27-2011, 12:25 PM
I've heard you can do both - many will leave the antifreeze in.
I was still worried that I may not have gotten all water out, so i removed the plugs and drained my engine of antifreeze just in case.

That is what I do, so that there is some room for expansion (potentially) and have been fine in the winters here in Minnesota.

east tx skier
10-27-2011, 12:29 PM
I've heard you can do both - many will leave the antifreeze in.
I was still worried that I may not have gotten all water out, so i removed the plugs and drained my engine of antifreeze just in case.

I understand. What I'm saying is that you don't get corrosion inhibition if you drain the antifreeze. I can understand why someone might go this route (filling with af, then draining), but just wanted to clarify my previous statement.

GoneBoatN
10-27-2011, 05:18 PM
Just to throw this in. From in the FAQ under the Mastercraft Knowledge Center -

Do I really need to winterize my MasterCraft even if it is stored in above freezing temperatures?

"It is a good idea that all engines be checked and winterized before storage, even when you plan on storing the boat in a heated area. Antifreeze lubricates hoses, impellers and seals, which will help to prevent drying and cracking. Fog oil helps to lubricate pistons, valves and cylinder walls which protect your engine from corrosion and long term wear on the engine."

It was interesting to see the comment about the hoses and seals.

Cloaked
10-27-2011, 07:35 PM
Hate to be this slow, but how do I "make sure the tranny cooler gets fed"?If the cooler is vertical and you feed the engine through the top of the cooler, it will be fine. I personally pull the lower hose (on vertical) and don't give it another thought.

If the cooler is horizontal and you feed the anti-freeze upstream of the cooler, make sure you get anti-freeze in the cooler, Pour a little in the cooler with a funnel.

Just don't overlook an obvious water receptical.... that's all.... :)

.

mikeg205
10-27-2011, 08:43 PM
one thing I add is anti-seize on the threads for the pet ****, know sensor and other drain plugs...keeps the corrosion at bay....