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View Full Version : '95 Prostar 190 floor weakened in back


lancerpilot
09-02-2011, 11:50 PM
I'm new to Team Talk and appreciate any advice. I did a search and came up with nothing so forgive me if this issue is covered somewhere else. I have a 95 Prostar 190 that's in Excellent condition. I recently noticed that the floor between the engine cover and rear bench seat is beginning to cave in (it gives when I step on it). As a result the engine cover hinges are coming loose. I'd like to fix it this winter and was curious if anyone had any experience with this, or if floor joist plans are available so I could plan the fix, VS just pulling up the carpet and seeing what I've got. Anyone else heard of this or have the same issue? Any help or advice would be appreciated.

I also thought of installing underwater LED lights in the transom and new carpet while I had the floor off as well. Any inputs on other fix's I should consider with the floor removed, or inputs in these areas would be appreciated also. Thanks again,
Chad

03geetee
09-03-2011, 12:08 AM
My 83 SnS had this same issue. Repeat wet people getting in the boat in the same spot will do it over time. Take up your floor section that you want to replace, cut the piece size that you need out of plywood then coat it with resin to make it water proof.

This will be very strong and should last for years.

JTR

web
09-03-2011, 12:10 AM
I fixed this in my '91 last winter. For me, the panel was a piece of fiberglass wrapped plywood and the plywood had gotten wet and rotted. I cut a new piece of plywood to size and glassed it with expoxy from West Systems (http://www.westsystem.com/). I was going to take pictures, but it was my first time doing that kind of work and the results weren't very pretty.

I think there are some related threads. Here are a couple:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=37935
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=36527

MIskier
09-03-2011, 01:46 AM
The center section of the floor is easily removed and replaced. The boat that you have does not have stringers (joists) that are removable. The stringer is part of an integrated design that makes up the stringers, floor, and engine foundation. This is then attached to the hull using an adhesive called methyl methacrylate which is a thermoplastic that bonds the two parts together.

MIskier
09-03-2011, 01:51 AM
Here is an example of the stringer system that MasterCraft uses on a boat that has a full hull liner, deck and interior are one piece, I believe it is from an X-15 the gray paste is the methacrylate.

Cloaked
09-03-2011, 07:54 AM
I did a search and came up with nothing ............lol....

When you remove the old carpet, remove it in as much as one piece as possible. It will come in very handy as a template for the new carpet installation.

.

lancerpilot
09-03-2011, 12:48 PM
I can't thank you guys enough for all the inputs already. This site is such a great resource. Thanks for pointing out the related threads, glad to know I'm not the only one with this issue. I'm not the handiest guy, but I think I'll try to tackle this one on my own.

sp00ky
09-03-2011, 01:00 PM
Your 95 doesn't have wood so I wouldn't add plywood. Is it directly behind engine cover? Doesn't this section lift out to access prop shaft couple and steering grease zerks?

mikeg205
09-03-2011, 04:05 PM
95 PS should have the aluminum corrugated flooring in front and behind the engine...mine does. Mine is still pretty good shape..and yes...steering and rudder zierks are there. I would use whatever works... shouldn't have gotten soft though...

mikeg205
09-03-2011, 04:08 PM
Here is an example of the stringer system that MasterCraft uses on a boat that has a full hull liner, deck and interior are one piece, I believe it is from an X-15 the gray paste is the methacrylate.

Cool information... My 95 PS 205 (I am second owner) has an aluminum brace on the starboard side of the boat under the steering console....did notice on any other year...do you think that was added previous owner?

mayo93prostar
09-05-2011, 09:54 PM
lancer, I had to replace this floor section in my 93 this summer. in the 91-94 hull, this panel is made of aluminum honeycomb and mine became delaminated likely because we run in brackish water and it corroded and seperated. I also had to do the front panel around the pylon. I used 3/4" oak plywood from home depot and added a 1/4" thick strip along the sides to get up to 1" thick total. I put two coats of fiberglass resin on both sides and edges and then covered with carpet. I looked into getting the aluminum panel but it was very expensive, around $300 for a sheet whereas the plywood was $45. My boat stays in the garage when not used so this fit my purpose well. I guess your 95 has similar panel and you are having same problem. another temp fix option is to rotate the panel 180 degrees and use the part that was under the back seat up by the engine, just drill the motor box hinge mounts. I did this for two years but then had to replace.

03geetee
09-05-2011, 10:18 PM
lancer, I had to replace this floor section in my 93 this summer. in the 91-94 hull, this panel is made of aluminum honeycomb and mine became delaminated likely because we run in brackish water and it corroded and seperated. I also had to do the front panel around the pylon. I used 3/4" oak plywood from home depot and added a 1/4" thick strip along the sides to get up to 1" thick total. I put two coats of fiberglass resin on both sides and edges and then covered with carpet. I looked into getting the aluminum panel but it was very expensive, around $300 for a sheet whereas the plywood was $45. My boat stays in the garage when not used so this fit my purpose well. I guess your 95 has similar panel and you are having same problem. another temp fix option is to rotate the panel 180 degrees and use the part that was under the back seat up by the engine, just drill the motor box hinge mounts. I did this for two years but then had to replace.

Like I mentioned earlier nothing wrong with plywood thats sealed up and strengthened with resin. I didnt want to add wood to my boat either, but the alternative was big $$$ besides once its carpeted you will not be able to feel any difference.

One tip though, drill your pilot holes before adding the resin so you seal up everything 100%. If you drill the screws through the resin after you could open up some ways for water to ruin the wood.

Try it!

JTR