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View Full Version : Looking for a lift for my 2006 X2 - Questions


bfinley
09-01-2011, 01:16 PM
Just a few questions. First, how much weight capacity do I need? I believe the boat weights 3500 lbs.

Second, how do I get the boat lift canopy to work with my tower.? I'd prefer to not have to lower the tower every time. Is that possible?

Does anyone have any brands to types of lifts I should stay away from?

There's a 5000 lb pontoon lift down the road that's pretty reasonable. Will I be able to convert it for use with my X2?

squigs
09-01-2011, 02:38 PM
Talk to Dwight at Marine Dock & Lift in Center City MN. He'll set you up with the ShoreMaster drop canopy on top of either a Pier Pleasure or ShoreMaster lift. I had his shop fabricate a custom rear door for us that that unzips and hinges up for full coverage all the way around the boat. Most of the standard tower friendly canopies have open rear ends or rely on snaps (when the snaps fail in wind they can beat up on your gel cost).

These are the only pics I have now (and unfortunately both from the same angle), but it works great. It's a 5000 lb lift. I have a 2009 X-14 with standard tower. There were a few times during the summer after a hard rain that the water level came up and it was a little snug getting in and out, but all in all works very well!

bfinley
09-02-2011, 03:35 PM
Anyone else have some thoughts on lifts?

bturner2
09-02-2011, 04:34 PM
I have a 5000 lb ShoreStation that I like. Nothing like the unlimited funds ShoreMaster shown above (I am truly jealous). The nice part about mine was that I paid a guy that had a pontoon on it $1K for it and it was only 2 years old. The only thing I had to do to it to change it over to inboard use was remove a couple of the bunks and adjust the others for my boat. Width is the other consideration you'll want to look at, mine is 110".

I don't have a canopy at this time but I am considering it. They make extensions so the tower will fit under them with the boat lifted but if you want true protection that ShoreMaster is about as good as it gets (don't forget to bring you're wallet when you order it). I've also heard a ton of good things about them from others that have them.

Not the top end solution but it works for us..........

robin
09-02-2011, 06:40 PM
I have a shore station, 4000# capacity for my prostar. I have a canopy, however i do not have a tower, so could not comment on it being tower friendly. I have not have a single problem with mine since buying new in 2000. When purchasing mine, i was originally looking at the 3000# model, as this was less expensive. I was given the tip to get as large of a capacity as you could afford, as it would be heavier duty, so it could handle a lighter boat easier, and last longer. it would also raise your resale value, as it could work for a wider range of buyers

bigmac
09-03-2011, 01:50 PM
Lots of different boat lifts made here in Minnesota so we have many, many different brands sold around here. The most disappointing ones on our lake have been Hewitt and Shoremaster. Best ones have been Pier Pleasure, Shore Station, and Floe. I've never cared for Shore Station because of the shallow canopy and the ring-guide concept (tend to bind).

For a boat with a tower, I would consider canopy skirt (http://www.canopyskirts.com/main/Default.asp). They're probably about $2000, very well made, and work great. They can be put on any lift.

This is my buddy's X-10 on his Pier Pleasure lift before and after (don't ask me why he chose yellow). He's had it several years now and it has been durable and still looks great:

http://www.canopyskirts.com/images/gallery/gallery_pierpleasureC1_full.jpg http://www.canopyskirts.com/images/gallery/gallery_pierpleasureC2_full.jpghttp://www.canopyskirts.com/images/gallery/gallery_pierpleasureC5_full.jpg

bfinley
09-11-2011, 11:13 PM
How wide the lift need to be?? 108" or 120"??

bfinley
09-12-2011, 08:23 AM
Will a 2006 X2 fit on a 106" lift?

bturner2
09-12-2011, 09:18 AM
Barely. I have the 120 with the guide bunks on the side to help center the boat when I bring it in. You can see them in the picture I posted which was before I adjusted them to fit the boat.

KYshooter
10-08-2011, 10:52 PM
At our lake we can only have front mount lifts. I have a hydrohoist 6600 (6600 # lift). Based off the weight of my X-30 it's a little overkill, but I wanted to make sure it easily handled the boat as out dock sees some rough water and it does. Very happy with the quality of the lift.

Instead of a canopy I had a cover made that covers the whole boat including the tower and swim platform. Works awesome because I have plenty of space to hang stuff to dry under the cover and gives some air space to help with condensation.

DoubleE
04-06-2013, 02:01 PM
Looking for a lift for my 2006 X2 as well, what did you end up getting?

Curious on the width and what it would take to convert a standard lift to accomodate an MC?

I found one that is a 3500# one I'm going to look at today, but concerned it is on the verge of not being big enough?

Also would like to put a canopy on it to protect it from the sun, etc. and good to know I can also consider a pontoon lift - thanks for the tips!

jmorone
04-06-2013, 05:47 PM
An X2 is around 3,500 lb. Add ski/wake gear, beverages, extra battery and a few passengers prior to lowering lift and you will be over 4,000. I owed a 4,000 lb lift prior to the purchase of an X2 and never put the boat on it. I was concerned it would not adequately support it. Consequently I purchased a 5,000 lb ShoreStation. I highly recommend nothing less than a 5,000 lb lift for an X2.

bturner2
04-07-2013, 08:35 AM
If we're talking the 3000 lb and the 4000 lb ShoreStation I was told the only difference between models was the winch. You may want to call ShoreStation to verify. I would also highly recommend the wider 120" model. I sold my 100" ShoreStation because it would barely fit.

fskof
04-07-2013, 09:32 AM
I dont know if this will help but I have seen this lift get very popular on lakes. It a sunlift by Sunstream. They are very well made. Many on TT have them. Maybe a owner of this lift can respond

http://sunlift.com/Sunlift.htm

jgraham37128
04-07-2013, 11:55 AM
Here's mine sitting on my new to me 4000lb hydrohoist lift. The 4000lb has no problems however the 6,000lb lift did raise it a lot higher than the 4,000lb, but all I care is it is out of the water!

JG

88 PS190
04-07-2013, 05:00 PM
For lift set up -

When you have a V-Drive boat you need to make sure you don't let the boat hang too far back on the lift - lots of weight in the engine. DD's you can let the boat be further back with fewer issues.

Bunks, You want to make sure that the bunks are high enough that tracking fins/underwater gear won't foul up.

Otherwise lower is better. You also want to transfer the measurements of the trailer bunks to your lift. MC has those bunks measured out to support the boat under the stringers in the hull - which is very nice. Cheat and set hose up.

Also you want to make sure the boat is centered on the frame so do all measurements based off a center measurement.

Finally - some lift companies piss me off. Shore station being one of them. They provide those carpeted "side" bunks to center the boat on the trailer. While they seem nice - they are below the rub rail and mess up your graphics on the boat, particularly the vinyl Mastercraft logo, and raised logos.

You want to replicate what your trailer guides are like. Get U bolts and some 1.5" galvanized pipe, set it up with PVC plastic tubing slipped over so that when your boat is coming on/off the lift the PVC will "roll" along the rub rail instead of those bunks messing up the hull.

You also need something to keep you from coming onto the lift too far, this will make sure that you are on the lift all the way, and that no one will get the prop into the lift.

Easiest I've found is to place a PVC pipe crosswise so it contacts the front tracking fin. It will bend out of the way if you bump it.

Neighbor has a 4X4 treated board screwed to the lift frame to do the same, but I've seen his mother run the front tracking fin into that hard.

DoubleE
04-08-2013, 12:23 PM
88 PS 190:
Excellent tips for a newbie looking to buy into a used lift, 88 PS 190, thanks! Ideally, would love to "try it" before buying, but obviously that is not an option this time of year, so this really helps!

One question, I get why you recommend comparing the bunks on the trailer to the lift, but what do you mean by "Cheat and set hose up."?

All:
1. How about converting a lift to have bunks, any recommendations? Things to consider? Where to get the kit?
2. Can a guy switch out the winch/cable to increase the weight limits?
3. Can a guy raise the canopy to accomodate the tower on pretty much all lifts?

Lastly, looking at jmorone's pic, as awesome as it looks, I'm assuming this is on your property. I love the idea that I can let it air out and take only minutes to hop in and go, etc but I'm considering this to go in a private party slip, do I dare leave it this open or do I put my cover on it too if I'll be back inside of a week? Or am I just being over concerned?

DoubleE
04-08-2013, 12:48 PM
Haven't heard anyone talk about cantilever vs vertical? pros/cons?

zamboniman
04-08-2013, 02:36 PM
Haven't heard anyone talk about cantilever vs vertical? pros/cons?

I think the vertical lets you get into some shallower water.

zamboniman
04-08-2013, 02:54 PM
Looking for a lift for my 2006 X2 as well, what did you end up getting?

Curious on the width and what it would take to convert a standard lift to accomodate an MC?

I found one that is a 3500# one I'm going to look at today, but concerned it is on the verge of not being big enough?

Also would like to put a canopy on it to protect it from the sun, etc. and good to know I can also consider a pontoon lift - thanks for the tips!

You'll want the 120" wide model. You'll be able to load with racks out assuming you're coming in well aligned and you forgot to swing them in (not with boards though).

You'l want the 4000 + class lifts 4500 - 5000 ideal.. even if they lift could technically handle the load the winch reduction gearing will be key... i.e. how much oomph it will take to lift the boat.

Many companies are offering a tower friendly option.. I went with Sunchaser universal canopy. They were good to work with as they offered custom canopy that added a valence that was shorter than their web advertised tower canopy yet still offers pretty good coverage.

You can't user the trailer measurements for a direct bunk setup because the master craft trailer has different bunk widths in the back compared to the front and the stepped hull. So you need to do a trial/error fitup based on the bunks getting wider as they go back.. The balance is keeping it nicely aligned in the strakes/chine not going over any under hull gear like pickups and getting wide enough in the back. It was a few trials and error to dial it in.

X2 doesn't have tracking fins but still nice to go with ski height bunks to allow it more flexibility and room for error on the running gear.

You don't HAVE to have a front stop.. I typically handle it by only lowering the cradle enough to just get it on. Also having the lift or bunks ever so slightly pitched back helps.. somewhat like loading on a trailer. I have a reference place that I load up to so I know when to stop. That said by only lowering the cradle to the right depth you'd have to power load to get it on any further.

I went through this exercise this time last year with my X2. Learned alot along the way. I ended up with craftlander 45120 and sunchaser canopy. I had to do some custom work to get the canopy on that brand lift because of the way they throughbolt the upper cable connections on the mounts. Not a big deal just some drilling of the aluminum canopy uprights to fit at the correct heights.. a bit of a trick since I did it on water. Required a dismount of the lift wench which was a PIA. Ideally if you build the canopy on the lift during lift assembly would have been much easier.

jmorone
04-08-2013, 05:06 PM
I agree with Zamboniman and Bturner2, go with the 120" wide model. It gives you more room when landing and allows you to easily use side guide rails. When using side guide rails, make sure they do not touch your graphics (in my photo above you can see I positioned them slightly below the "MasterCraft" graphics and angled them froward slightly so they don't touch the rear "X2" graphics).

I thought about matching the bunks on my trailer, but it would have been too difficult to fabricate two sets of off-setting bunks. I use a tennis ball hanging from a string to align to a particular point on the boat...this is where I hold it while someone winds the lift up. Everything (including the shaft strut) under the boat clears the horizontal cross member except the prop. I might increase the height of the vertical unistrut that supports the bunks so the prop clears. Then I would not have to be as careful when landing the boat.

I leave the boat uncovered over the weekend (private lake house), but I certainly cover it when I leave. I would never leave my boat uncovered overnight at public dock.

Finally, I ordered my cover with an extra 12" length of valance. This helps a lot with sun and weather. I think if the valance was any longer, it would not look right.

zamboniman
04-08-2013, 05:36 PM
The other thing that is always not readily apparent until you see them all in person.. Shore station has horizontal cross members across both sides of the lift. Depending on the water depth that may be a "hurdle" to enter the boat. If deep enough they will probably not be an issue but otherwise could be something you have to climb over.. not easy for everyone.

Most other brand lifts have at least one side if not both sides with "V" style supports so you can enter without scaling that support beam.

Speaking of depth if you are in a shallow area the different brands have various minimum depths due to their design. Some cradles go all the way down others don't.. Some have V cradles to git a bit deeper.

Other differences across brands are some have more welded components.. others more bolted components. All have pros/cons and could be argued either way. In the end most are more similar than different. I ended up with the craftlander as it appeared as good or better than the big names at just a bit more than they were used. So far no complaints.

What I found through my lengthy research..
Shorestation/ShoreMaster = Gold standard (not necessarily the best but they seem to have defined the market, nobody is going to laugh at you for buying one of these)
Floe = the most proud of their product (don't believe me price one out)
Handful of other small lower cost players = Some have obvious cost cutting measures.. others arguably better than the standard.

88 PS190
04-08-2013, 06:38 PM
88 PS 190:

One question, I get why you recommend comparing the bunks on the trailer to the lift, but what do you mean by "Cheat and set Those up."? (just a typo)

All:
1. How about converting a lift to have bunks, any recommendations? Things to consider? Where to get the kit?
2. Can a guy switch out the winch/cable to increase the weight limits?
3. Can a guy raise the canopy to accomodate the tower on pretty much all lifts?

Lastly, looking at jmorone's pic, as awesome as it looks, I'm assuming this is on your property. I love the idea that I can let it air out and take only minutes to hop in and go, etc but I'm considering this to go in a private party slip, do I dare leave it this open or do I put my cover on it too if I'll be back inside of a week? Or am I just being over concerned?


Bunks are easy, most lift companies sell a kit, or hardware you can buy wood and carpet and finish up. Or you can buy the complete bunks (assuming you bought a pontoon lift)

Weight limits are more than the cable, the whole design is based around it, and I'd wager the cable is one of the more overbuilt components (they still break even within limits due to wear/stress on the cables)

Canopies almost all can be lifted by making extensions for the pipes/posts that hold them, might have to do some sourcing for metal suppliers locally who can get you the material if you aren't an aluminum fabricator by trade.

88 PS190
04-08-2013, 06:46 PM
I think the vertical lets you get into some shallower water.

The skinny on the two systems from my experience.

Vertical lifts have bunches of cables and pullies running through the struts.

These cables and pullies lift your boat straight up and down a pipe, so the travel is quite large - best bet for lifting higher, lowering further, and having greater range of lift if your water level changes through out the year. But also more components to break, and the lifts are usually quite heavy.

Advantage to vertical, all the weight is suspended on cables, the craddle has guides to ride up the posts so the cables just hang the craddle.


Cantilevers - less money, usually lighter lifts. Much smaller lift range (limited by the pivot radius of the arm.

A side effect however is that the cables last longer (from my experience) because once you have the boat "up" the boat really is sitting on the frame, and only some % is suspended on cables.
Because the aluminum structure is not much larger in a cantilever, and you often have just the one cable, and a few pullies, these lifts tend to be very easy to move around.
Also, when you are lifting the boat, a cantilever comes up at an angle, it is more like pulling your boat up an incline than "lifting" it up. Which means that the physical effort of turning the wheel is usually a good deal lower (everything else the same) you split the labor with the cantilever arms.

88 PS190
04-08-2013, 06:48 PM
Final thought:

These are made in MI - http://www.harbor-master.com/grand-rapids-mi-elite-lift.htm

Not terribly well known. But they have a good price point. They have extremely low force required to lift the boat (it rolls up the bar on wheels instead of pivoting or lifting)

One cable, lowers down very far (good for inboards)

Fairly inexpensive. Perhaps not as heavily constructed as Shore Station - but far easier to live with.

catamount
04-09-2013, 10:47 AM
88 PS 190:
Excellent tips for a newbie looking to buy into a used lift, 88 PS 190, thanks! Ideally, would love to "try it" before buying, but obviously that is not an option this time of year, so this really helps!

1. How about converting a lift to have bunks, any recommendations? Things to consider? Where to get the kit?



Hi DoubleE. I bought a Shore Station last year without bunks and purchased this kit to get it to work with my 1987 PS 190. It worked great... all you have to do is supply your own 2x6 for the bunks.

http://www.boatliftanddock.com/p-524-large-or-ski-boat-carpeted-hull-bunk-kit.aspx

http://www.boatliftanddock.com/images/VARIANT/icon/1709.jpg

CBRENT
04-09-2013, 12:11 PM
@ bfinley - not sure if you have looked into this yet but I have one and love it. Works in almost any level of water and I never have to worry about uneven ground. It's super easy to pull out for the winter and gets the boat completely out of the water. The customer service is fantastic as well. I'e owned it now for 6 yrs and no issues.

I have a 2012 X2 and it handles the weight just fine. My only complaint is it doesn't have a canopy.


Couple shots for you. My 86 and the X2

Here is their site: http://www.airdock.com/

catamount
04-09-2013, 03:52 PM
That is awesome! I would definitely be looking into that if I had the right conditions for it.

dpolen
04-09-2013, 04:13 PM
@ bfinley - not sure if you have looked into this yet but I have one and love it. Works in almost any level of water and I never have to worry about uneven ground. It's super easy to pull out for the winter and gets the boat completely out of the water. The customer service is fantastic as well. I'e owned it now for 6 yrs and no issues.

I have a 2012 X2 and it handles the weight just fine. My only complaint is it doesn't have a canopy.


Couple shots for you. My 86 and the X2

Here is their site: http://www.airdock.com/

I'm working on a deal right now towards trading in my boat to buy an 2012 X2...which model of airdock do you have there? How easy is it to take out of the lake at the end of the season? I lease a boat slip in the summer and don't have a convenient place to store a boat lift...wondering if this might be an option for me. Thanks!!!
Doug

CBRENT
04-09-2013, 04:45 PM
@dpolen - As for the exact model I'd have to go look at the paperwork, of which I'm not exactly sure of it's location. I'll give them a call and ask. They keep all those records. It was around $4k.

As for ease of moving it... it's pretty heavy. It takes 2 people to drag it around on dry land. It slides pretty easy when it's inflated. All and all it's way easier then a hoist. Most of my neighbors have hoists and they struggle in the muck every year! Then there's me, floating my dock into place tying it off and opening a beer.

In the fall I pull it into my backyard, deflate it and fold it onto itself. Pull the compressor box off and store that in the garage.

dpolen
04-09-2013, 06:01 PM
@dpolen - As for the exact model I'd have to go look at the paperwork, of which I'm not exactly sure of it's location. I'll give them a call and ask. They keep all those records. It was around $4k.

As for ease of moving it... it's pretty heavy. It takes 2 people to drag it around on dry land. It slides pretty easy when it's inflated. All and all it's way easier then a hoist. Most of my neighbors have hoists and they struggle in the muck every year! Then there's me, floating my dock into place tying it off and opening a beer.

In the fall I pull it into my backyard, deflate it and fold it onto itself. Pull the compressor box off and store that in the garage.

CBRENT...Wow, that sounds like it might be a solution I need to consider...my slip is about 1000 feet from a public boatramp here in Minnesota where I could drag it out with a buddy's help, put it on a small trailer and bring it home to store for the winter. I'll give them a call once I finalized the deal on the new boat...btw...great looking X2!

DoubleE
04-09-2013, 08:53 PM
What a concept, CBRENT, thanks for sharing!

Was liking the idea of a canopy for the protection from the sun, but will have to check this option out for sure! I take it water doesn't get trapped between it to cause any maintenance issues? And it looks like the prop/rudder sits in the water a bit, but guessing that is easy to clean up if needed?

Curious how long does it roughly takes to inflate/deflate?

I also couldn't spot on the their site if the pump requires power or can a battery be stored in the box?

Thanks again!

88 PS190
04-09-2013, 09:44 PM
DoubleE - one thing I've always been tempted by are the "drive on" floating type lifts.

http://www.jetdock.com/products/univ-20ft-ski-boat-dock.asp

The idea being the lift floats always, you then drive on.

Big disadvantage is that to get off the lift you have to use a crank style system to "push" the boat off.
I like that the boat is out of the water, and you could probably put a cover onto this style.

I also like that they are much less likely to sink if one is holed than a bladder.

A risk of any floating type would be if you forget to pull the plug and your tarp collapses full of rain.


No floating lift is sufficient for the big waves we get.

CBRENT
04-10-2013, 09:36 AM
@dpolen - So I contacted the Air Dock folks and the model I have is the C/B Model $2,620. That price is def lower then what I told you I originally paid. Amazing how time robs you of your memory, but back when I bought it I think 2K felt like 4K!

@DoubleE - It's takes a couple minutes to inflate. I'm pretty anal about getting it perfectly balanced and lined up correctly on the lift. You can control each "bladder" by turning 1 of 3 valves in the control box. While it's inflating I start to clean out the boat and clean so never really timed it. When I'm going to take the boat out... I just open the valves and then proceed to take the cover off and or any other prep that needs done before we shove off... so again it takes a couple minutes for it to fully deflate so the boat is floating.

Prop and rudder - I generally pull the boat high enough so the surf tabs and the attitude plate are out of the water. Yes this means that the rudder and prop sit a bit in the water. We are on the main body of the lake and there is no issues with standing water, weeds or any other debris that might gather on the prop or rudder.

As for power: I have electricity at the water so I just wind an extension cord from the outlet through the dock and plug it in. Not sure on using a battery. Def need to ask them. Inside the box is a little compressor motor... sure you could hard wire something together.

Boat goes in on the 27th, I'll take some pics so everyone can get a good idea of how it all comes together. Maybe a video of me putting it in the water, cold cold water!

DoubleE
04-14-2013, 04:02 PM
Instead of a canopy I had a cover made that covers the whole boat including the tower and swim platform. Works awesome because I have plenty of space to hang stuff to dry under the cover and gives some air space to help with condensation.

KYshooter, do you have a picture? Love to see it!

Indyxc
04-19-2013, 12:58 PM
Great thread!

I am considering buying a 2006 X2 up to 2008.

I have an existing lift that has a 4500 lb capacity, and is 108" wide. Weight wise it will be fine, a bit tight on the width with a 96" beam, but it should work.

I also have a canopy. Trying to figure out if I will need to raise it.

Does anyone know, or have a rough idea how high the top of the tower is from the water line?