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View Full Version : 1:1 velvet drive replace rear seal 94 205


sp00ky
08-16-2011, 09:12 PM
Ok as I understand it to replace the rear seal (f***** blower hose wrapped around my prop shaft after 3 inches of rain) :o

I need to get to the 1 1/2 inch bolt which requires an impact wrench for 220 lbs/torque. I cannot find an impact socket which is 1 1/2 inches that will fit my air impact wrench with 1/2 inch drive. 3/4" drive impact wrench is $300+

Has anyone tried to use a non-impact socket to remove this bolt? any words of wisdom for this die hard DIY'er?:confused:

CantRepeat
08-16-2011, 09:22 PM
They make a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer. You should be able to get it from any sears store. If you are refering to impact and the thicker wall non chrome sockets I'd suggest using safety glasses and using a normal 1 1/2 inch socket.

Likewise, you shouldn't need an impact wrench to get it off. Just block the rear mount from spinning and put a piece of pipe on the end of a breaker-bar.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
08-16-2011, 09:23 PM
How about a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter to use your air impact.

Ahhh he beat me to it, do what cantrepeat said.

sp00ky
08-16-2011, 09:25 PM
really skidim told me I would need an impact wrench as it takes 220 lbs of torque. That would be great if I could use a 1/2" drive socket wrench.

sp00ky
08-16-2011, 09:26 PM
yeah I was having a hard time finding the 1/2 to 3/4 I found the 3/4 to 1/2

Dino Don
08-16-2011, 09:41 PM
Likewise, you shouldn't need an impact wrench to get it off. Just block the rear mount from spinning and put a piece of pipe on the end of a breaker-bar.

I agree here---pipe on a bar will pull all the power you will ever need.

CantRepeat
08-16-2011, 09:48 PM
I really wish I would have documented my velvet 1:1 rebuild so I could have done a thread on it. I didn't know about this site when I did it so I don't think I took photos. I'm sure it would have help a lot of people.

sp00ky
08-16-2011, 10:04 PM
I'll try to take pictures as I replace the seal

sp00ky
08-16-2011, 10:09 PM
Ok I understand the breaker bar to put my 1 1/2" socket. But where do I place the pipe to brace as not to damage anything.

CantRepeat
08-17-2011, 08:14 AM
Ok I understand the breaker bar to put my 1 1/2" socket. But where do I place the pipe to brace as not to damage anything.

What about a block of wood in the bilge?

Kevin 89MC
08-17-2011, 04:43 PM
I once had to pull the crank bolt on an older car, couldn't get it with any size impact wrench. I took the advice from an old gear head: put it in 5th gear, put an 8' pipe on the breaker bar (could fit all 10', garage wall was in the way), and leaned into it. It finally gave with a big pop, I figured I had around 1,000 lbs of force on the bolt.
If you are looking for large sockets, check out Northern Tool if you have one in your area, or order on line.
Good luck,
Kevin

sp00ky
08-18-2011, 08:39 PM
block of wood, check. and I should put a rod thru the bolt holes on the coupler? Also its righty tightey left loosey right? 1994 is RH rotation right?

sp00ky
08-18-2011, 08:40 PM
good to know breaker bar is better and cheaper

CantRepeat
08-18-2011, 09:00 PM
good to know breaker bar is better and cheaper

Sweet, did you get the nut off yet? It is right = tight, left = loose.

sp00ky
08-18-2011, 10:08 PM
Not yet tomorrow is when I do it. Got the seal today. I will post step by step pics

CantRepeat
08-18-2011, 10:25 PM
Not yet tomorrow is when I do it. Got the seal today. I will post step by step pics

Right on, I'll be home most of the day so if you have issues post up. Good luck on the repair.

sp00ky
08-19-2011, 12:18 AM
Thanks for the support...my wife is definitley tired of hearing about it. LOL.

sp00ky
08-19-2011, 04:29 PM
Ok all is well got the nut off. Old seal was is in 2 pieces.

Question though how far do I press the new seal in? Flush with back of trans?

CantRepeat
08-19-2011, 04:35 PM
Ok all is well got the nut off. Old seal was is in 2 pieces.

Question though how far do I press the new seal in? Flush with back of trans?


Yes just make the seal flush with the tail housing. Also, take your finger and dip it in some tranny oil and wipe the inside of the seal before you put the rear coupler back on. Glad to hear it's working out for you.

sp00ky
08-19-2011, 04:56 PM
Thank you so much for your help. Damn blower hose wire did a number on the seal.

sp00ky
08-29-2011, 01:25 PM
ok trans seal is working great, however, what would cause the steering wheel to become misaligned during this mishap?
Cable stretch? steering is good except the straight position has changed

CantRepeat
08-29-2011, 01:54 PM
ok trans seal is working great, however, what would cause the steering wheel to become misaligned during this mishap?
Cable stretch? steering is good except the straight position has changed

Honestly, if that has changed I think I would go check "everything" that is steering related at the backend of the boat.

IE: The readend of the cable, the attachment to the steering arm(not sure if that's what its called) at both ends of the arm, where it connects to the rudder.

I don't think anything you could have done to the end of the trans should affect the steering, other then standing on the cable and bending it. :confused:

sp00ky
08-30-2011, 09:58 PM
Ok will do been busy hope to check it out Thurs

Thanks again