rlivingood
07-27-2011, 10:38 PM
Have a 2003 MC trailer with a Titan/Dico 6000 actuator. The system had "Reliable" calipers, but one has stuck twice even after rebuild and last weekend another stuck. Actually, don't think the brakes were working (given that rolling down hill at the ramp used to do the slow bounce hop when without the boat, but not recently). Regardless, replaced the calipers with Kodiak 225s. Bled the system well (used vacuum to prime and then the normal pressure method from the actuator. Replaced all the old and very dirty brake fluid with new Dot 3.
When testing the brakes using either a screwdriver under the actuator to pump the master cylinder or the 2x4 method to push the master cylinder the calipers are not giving enough pressure against the disks. When using the actuator to bleed the system the brake fluid is coming out the master cylinder fine. I suspect it isn't putting pressure enough to cause the brakes to work.
There are no leaks at the master or any of the new calipers. Since the bleeding is working the reversing solenoid (cut off type) isn't preventing fluid from reaching the calipers.
With the wheels off I can see when a buddy pumps the actuator cylinder using either of the above methods that the caliper pistons to actuate, but only weakly and I still have free play at the calipers to the disks.
I am thinking master cylinder rebuild, but wanted to see if anyone else has ideas to try before trying to get the parts and rebuilding the master cylinder and then re-bleeding the whole darn thing again.
Good thing I've got a big F350 to pull the boat since I don't think I've noticed the brakes not working for quite some time. So I think I'm still good to go this weekend, but want to get this back to "correct" operation (not looking forward to the trailer bounce down the ramp when going to pull out the boat, but at least I'd know the brakes are "working" when this is happening.)
Any ideas or leads on parts for this actuator would be great.
Thanks again TMC.
Rod
When testing the brakes using either a screwdriver under the actuator to pump the master cylinder or the 2x4 method to push the master cylinder the calipers are not giving enough pressure against the disks. When using the actuator to bleed the system the brake fluid is coming out the master cylinder fine. I suspect it isn't putting pressure enough to cause the brakes to work.
There are no leaks at the master or any of the new calipers. Since the bleeding is working the reversing solenoid (cut off type) isn't preventing fluid from reaching the calipers.
With the wheels off I can see when a buddy pumps the actuator cylinder using either of the above methods that the caliper pistons to actuate, but only weakly and I still have free play at the calipers to the disks.
I am thinking master cylinder rebuild, but wanted to see if anyone else has ideas to try before trying to get the parts and rebuilding the master cylinder and then re-bleeding the whole darn thing again.
Good thing I've got a big F350 to pull the boat since I don't think I've noticed the brakes not working for quite some time. So I think I'm still good to go this weekend, but want to get this back to "correct" operation (not looking forward to the trailer bounce down the ramp when going to pull out the boat, but at least I'd know the brakes are "working" when this is happening.)
Any ideas or leads on parts for this actuator would be great.
Thanks again TMC.
Rod