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View Full Version : head/cam change pic's


Dino Don
07-26-2011, 12:44 AM
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0597.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0598.jpg

Getting late more to do tomorrow evening---

Kyle
07-26-2011, 12:56 AM
If you haven't taken off the timing cover yet make sure your water pump bolts and timing cover bolts are labeled. Several of the bolts are different legnths and it was a puzzle the first time I did my heads and cam. Do remember I didn't touch my bottom end and I lost it less than 25 hours after I added all my new goodies. Then I had to buy a bunch of new even better goodies for a lot more $$$$. I can't remember if you are doing the bottom end or not. Looking good though.

Kyle
07-26-2011, 12:58 AM
By the way is there a reasonthor 4 threads instead of 1 continuous thread???:)

Dino Don
07-26-2011, 01:11 AM
Wouldn't let me add more than 4 pic's per thread or did I do something wrong?

This engine has been out some time back and was gone through balanced and flat tops hope it stays together. I normally would vote to go back but time and work space is a problem--hope I don't end up regretting it.

psychobilly
07-26-2011, 03:50 AM
Wouldn't let me add more than 4 pic's per thread or did I do something wrong?

You have to start another post, not a whole nuther thread. :-)

Table Rocker
07-26-2011, 10:06 AM
If you haven't taken off the timing cover yet make sure your water pump bolts and timing cover bolts are labeled. Several of the bolts are different legnths and it was a puzzle the first time I did my heads and cam..I use a cardboard box (like a pizza box) whenever I take something apart. Just poke the bolts into the box in the same pattern as they were on the engine. It keeps them from getting lost and you can get the bolt you need in a split second during reassembly.

Kyle
07-26-2011, 10:46 AM
I use a cardboard box (like a pizza box) whenever I take something apart. Just poke the bolts into the box in the same pattern as they were on the engine. It keeps them from getting lost and you can get the bolt you need in a split second during reassembly.

Good idea right there.

Iirc the water pump and timing cover use 4 or 5 bolt lengths and most are close to being the same size. I had every bolt of mine in a box the first time I did mine. The second everything was labeled in zip lock bags because I knew it would take months not a week or two. But still the first time was a puzzle.

Bouyhead
07-26-2011, 11:07 AM
Self adhesive carpet protector available from Home Depot/ Lowes etc. might be a good idea. I Put that stuff down when I pulled the motor on my boat. Kept things nice and neat.

68890

Dino Don
07-26-2011, 02:55 PM
[QUOTE=mcantamessa;774882]Self adhesive carpet protector available from Home Depot/ Lowes etc. might be a good idea. I Put that stuff down when I pulled the motor on my boat. Kept things nice and neat.

That is a good idea!!

Patrick Hardy
07-26-2011, 03:14 PM
Hows the saying go...Necessity is the mother of all invention. I just love this site, such a great forum for boat education...let a lone, a great way to kill down time at work. Keep up the fantastic ideas!

Dino Don
07-26-2011, 11:11 PM
Well, back to it--pulled the frt cover and seperated the bolts like Kyle said don't mix them!

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0599.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0600.jpg

Next issue was pulling lower crank gear to remove cam gear-- used a puller to move the lower gear forward to remove chain and cam gear. Next was removing pylon to remove old cam. Thank goodness they (u bolts) were not big time tight--

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0601.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0602.jpg

Dino Don
07-26-2011, 11:18 PM
Old cam out--ready to put new one in.

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0603.jpg

If you don't have something to bolt to frt of cam to guide it in you can use a wrench to slide over frt bolt and wedge it aginst the frt of the cam and use it as leverage to lift it up and in place--those last couple of sections.

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0604.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0605.jpg

Then line it up and put lower crank gear back on w/chain and cam gear-line them up and slide them back in place and bolt everything back up. Check behind yourself--

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0606.jpg

Kyle
07-27-2011, 02:21 AM
Not trying to be a know it all but the last 4 mc 351w engines I have done all had a rubber oil pan gasket that was a 1 piece that went under the timing cover and the block and both rear and front seals. It was all one piece and was thick rubber. Be careful to mate the timing cover pan and block very well. I would hate to see you take it back down because of an oil leak.

Kyle
07-27-2011, 02:25 AM
Isn't it too hot for freaking jeans...:D

CantRepeat
07-27-2011, 08:26 AM
Isn't it too hot for freaking jeans...:D

Agreed!! I haven't worn long pants in almost 2 years!

Dino Don
07-27-2011, 08:45 AM
Isn't it too hot for freaking jeans...:D

YEP--but the bugs don't bite!!!!!!

Dino Don
07-27-2011, 11:05 PM
Not trying to be a know it all but the last 4 mc 351w engines I have done all had a rubber oil pan gasket that was a 1 piece that went under the timing cover and the block and both rear and front seals. It was all one piece and was thick rubber. Be careful to mate the timing cover pan and block very well. I would hate to see you take it back down because of an oil leak.

Well Fel pro set is just like this one-two corner tabs but a note making reference to a one piece. It's all mute point now found something in number 6 hole I don't like. Going to pull it and take a close look but doesn't look particularly good. Looks like maybe a .030 over job before this is finished. Better now than later!!

Kyle
07-28-2011, 01:24 AM
Well Fel pro set is just like this one-two corner tabs but a note making reference to a one piece. It's all mute point now found something in number 6 hole I don't like. Going to pull it and take a close look but doesn't look particularly good. Looks like maybe a .030 over job before this is finished. Better now than later!!

Yeah I would rather be safe than sorry. You should be able to pull that engine and tranny out in less than an hour. I use an overhead I beam and a chain hoist. I removed the tranny harness and coupler bolts, then the motor and tranny mount bolts that bolt down into the stringer. I've removed them from tranny and block before but it is 10x faster if you remove the set up with the mounts still attached to the block and tranny.

I put a new high volume oil pump in the ones I built. If you remember my last one I had no choice. lol

Btw what did you find in #6 hole?

Oh the 1 piece gasket was purchased separately from the fel pro gasket kit. I know that they made the cork multiple piece oil pan kit but I havent seen one in any Mastercraft 351w I've been in. They were all rubber. I also got the gasket kit marine grade from autozone. My mc dealer gave me the fel pro part number and autozone had the same gasket fel pro number. I had to go that route because I was putting it together and did not want to wait another week for my dealer. That kit came with the cork pan gasket but I ordered separately the 1 piece rubber. Worth the extra money. Has crush sleeves at every pan bolt to prevent over tightening and seals very nice. Well worth your time and money vs the cork.

If you need part numbers I still have them in my Mastercraft owners manual where I keep all of my records.

Dino Don
07-28-2011, 04:45 PM
Kyle, Shoot me those numbers when you can--#6 has a bad spot that looks like rust spot from water at least .020 deep. The rest might have stain but nothing like #6 has. Took it to be a sign to check it out completely--better now than later.

Dino Don
08-05-2011, 12:56 PM
Well checked it out and it had to be bored to .030 over. Crank rotating assemby is at a friends race engine shop to be balanced again. They checked weight on rods and piston assy's and they are with in just a few grams of each other. Should have checked the weight on each part but didn't the pistons were assembled to the rods first. Took frt balancer and flywheel to be sure the assy is correct when they finish. Pic's of the block bored and cleaned ready to be assembled.

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0607.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0608.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0609.jpg

Once all the parts are back pic's of the assembly will be posted. Hope it helps anyone who might could use the info--:)

Kyle
08-06-2011, 03:31 AM
It sure is pretty. I'm excited for you. I know you will love the extra HP!!!

Dino Don
08-14-2011, 11:49 PM
Well, got the crank back from the machine shop all balanced and polished---

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0668.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0669.jpg

Setting crank in 1st time to check bearing clearance:
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0670.jpg

Using old method of plastigage: the section of tape shows the amount of clearance you have after you put the plastic like material on the crank journal and compress it with the bearing cap. You pull the cap down according to torque spec. and then remove it and see how much compression you have. This shows you how much clearance there is between bearing and crank journal. More pics will show what this looks like.
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0671.jpg

Dino Don
08-14-2011, 11:52 PM
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0672.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0676.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0677.jpg

You check width of compression to the tape and it tells you what the clearance is.
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0681.jpg

Dino Don
08-14-2011, 11:57 PM
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0682.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0683.jpg

Got the clearance checked removed the caps and crank then cleaned up the plastic off crank and caps. Reinstalled crank with oil and put camshaft in block getting ready for piston and rod install. Put rings on all 8 pistons--

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0686.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0687.jpg

Dino Don
08-15-2011, 12:02 AM
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0690.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0691.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu353/rioo68/IMG_0692.jpg

Install piston/rod assy tomorrow night--

DooSPX
08-30-2011, 10:28 AM
updates? :o

CantRepeat
08-30-2011, 10:35 AM
Did you do ring gap?

One thing I was taught from an old racer a long time ago, don't use oil to assemble a motor. He used STP oil treatment straight out of the can. It's gooey and stays around a little longer during start up. Also use one of those shafts to spin the oil pump up.