View Full Version : Powerslot shaft packing?????

07-25-2011, 08:20 PM
I have a 1987 Prostar 190 with a powerslot transmission that needs the shaft packed. I already have the GFO packing, but it doesn't have room to back the nut off to get the old packing out and get the new packing in. Does the motor have to come up and forward? Even if the motor comes up, the coupling is still keeping it from coming off. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

07-25-2011, 11:01 PM
That doesn't seem right that you wouldn't have enough room to back the nut off. I have a '94 so the setup is probably different. If I remember correctly on mine, the nut that backed off was the one closest to the back of the boat. The front one stayed put and the other one slid down the shaft toward the back of the boat.

I also used the GFO packing and ended up using four pieces instead of the three that the directions called for. I just tightened it snuggly by hand and the drip rate happened to be about perfect without any adjustments.

07-26-2011, 08:50 AM
Here is a picture for anyone that hasn't seen one like this...

07-26-2011, 09:15 AM
I just did the packing on my 81, I took the coupling off to get enough room putting back on was b!+ch

07-26-2011, 09:25 AM
Dosen't that coupling have to be pulled off? If I had to guess I'd say its on a taper.
And then pull the shaft out towards the back of the boat?

07-26-2011, 12:14 PM
Dosen't that coupling have to be pulled off? If I had to guess I'd say its on a taper.
And then pull the shaft out towards the back of the boat?

It is pressed on and yes a taper.

Now what you are about to read is redneck or southern engineered or nriggin but you can take the coupler loose without a puller. Remove the nut that holds the shaft to the coupler or if you think that there is room back the nut off until it grabbing by a few threads. Next is the rig job. Put a socket inbeteeen the trans coupler and the shaft coupler with the socket pressing the shaft. Shallow socket probably first followed by a deep well second. Then tighten the couplers together evenly and the socket will press the shaft backwards. If you need to remove the nut on the shaft to get enough room then fine.

Installation is easy as well. Slide shaft through coupler and put nut on. Then get a 2x4 or wooden stake and place inbetween the strut and prop. This will prevent the shaft and coupler from spinning. Tighten the nut back up and put the couplers together.

Note you dont have to over tighten the coupler nut but it needs to be tight. It's a 1 or 2 grunt tighten. Don't jump up and down over tightening it. The whole project should last less than 1.5 hours the first time you do it. If you are using pneumatic tools less than an hour.

07-26-2011, 12:17 PM
Doing above way will save you from buying a not needed puller. Also if you have a harmonic balancer puller you may be able to use that. I have many pullers and none of them had the room to fit. I used the socket way and it worked fine.

07-26-2011, 12:54 PM
that is strange . Picture confirms you are accurate. I had an 86 with PS. It had plenty of room and was easy. The socket method (or any piece of steel that size) sounds like the best bet.

07-26-2011, 05:34 PM
Thanks for the input. I will try the socket method tomorrow after work. Hopefully I'll be able to get enough room for something to go in between the coupling. If that dosen't work I guess I'll jack the back of the motor up and use a puller??