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View Full Version : 2001 PS190 LTR330 Running BAD!


agua4fun
07-27-2005, 09:35 PM
I have a 2001 Prostar 190 - LTR 330hp (duvall) 395 hours 60 this year

My boat is not sounding or running well at all. Here are the symptoms:
I have a severe loss of power. - At 3000 rpm, I run at 24mph.
At full throttle I only get 4000 rpm and a sad 34mph
With me skiing (just once, the first time I noticed problems) the boat topped out at 31mph
Oil pressure sits at 20-40 always, and at idle bounces to 0 for short milliseconds
Temp gauge never makes it to 120. The faster I run, the cooler it gets, down to 90deg
(the engine and exhaust manifold are never hot to the touch)
After running fast for a minute or two, there is a ticking which I can not locate, and lasts until the engine is shut down.
The engine has a slight vibration at about 1500rpm
Gas seems to disappear quicker than normal, although that may be my own misjudgment.

My sister, to avoid chewing me up, had to use a generous amount of reverse (Last week before I noticed any problems), and a fair (not too much) amount of dark smoke came out the exhaust. Im thinking that this is not related or too much of a big deal

This all seems to have just happened in the past week. I have been out skiing almost every day until now. I took a week off due to t-storms and now its running bad. If I think hard, it is possible that the performance did drop a bit in the recent past, as I noticed a few times that my faster skiing friends made the boat work a little harder than usual. But no symptoms even close to this extent.

Background:
I float the boat 24/7 in a muddy river with 3mph of current. It has been in since May 1st. I pulled it out, cleaned the outside, and took it to another (much cleaner) lake once for July 4th weekend. There is definitely a lot of mud/algae that forms on the bottom (and maybe in the cooling system)

Another thing, before I went out today, when I put the boat in gear for the first time, I chopped a small stick that must have been under the boat (very soft, about 1dia). So maybe this has something to do with that.

SO,
My (un-educated) thoughts are, the boat is having fuel problems, running WAY too rich, which is causing the low temperatures and lousy performance, and fouled out a plug which causes the ticking. this is most definitely way off, which is why I bring this to all of your incredible wisdom. I really dont think it is a prop problem, I have hit stumps in other MCs before and know what a bent prop feels like. I felt under the boat with my feet (there is no visibility under water) and the prop & rudder feel fine. Also, although it may cause the lack of speed, the rpm would still run higher like it did before right?

Also, how do I check the cooling system for operation while the boat is in the water?

Thanks for the help!

Dave
Toledo, Ohio

JDK
07-27-2005, 11:36 PM
Start simple.
Change your plugs, and plug wires.
They try it out.

lakes Rick
07-27-2005, 11:47 PM
Start simple.
Change your plugs, and plug wires.
They try it out.


I would guess a stuck thermostat and your boat is choking itself out due the the temp staying cold, telling the computer to run rich....

TrevorA
07-28-2005, 11:36 AM
Wow. Sounds exactly like what happened to me last summer. I've got a 2002 Prostar w/ the LRT engine. I had noticed the lack of oil pressure for about a week with a ticking sound. Also the vibrations at 1500 RPMs sounds pretty familar. Finally the engine shut down on me and wouldn't start again.

Mine was a bad Distributer gear that runs the oil pump. (Ticking Sound) MC Had a recall. I'd get it checked before you need a new block like I did.

My gear ground down to nothing and sent metal fragments all over the engine.

Hope this isn't the problem...

Storm861triple
07-28-2005, 01:14 PM
What Trevor said. Pull the dist. and look at the gear. It's easy to do and costs nothing.

Running at a lower temp won't cause the engine to "choke out". It needs more fuel at a colder temp so it gets more fuel. That doesn't choke it out. I do think the operating temps are low, and i'd change the T-stat for that, but I don't think that is causing or related to you symptoms.

Pull the dist. and maybe the plugs and report back here for the next step.

-Tom

bucky
07-28-2005, 01:28 PM
I have the same- '01 ps190/LTR. my oil pressure guage drops at idle, also, but has done so for 3 mo. with no effect No ticking sound. I thought it was a bad ground at the dash, since pp is messing up also. I better check the oil pump drive. Any advice on finding/ checking?

Edit- The LTR 330 has no distributor. It has the Cadillac Northstar direct ignition.

TrevorA
07-28-2005, 02:13 PM
Bucky, You're right no distributor, but there is still a for a lack of the correct techincal term a round metal thing in place of the Dist cap. It's a little larger than a silver dollar, and about 3 times as thick. Located on the top center rear portion of the engine. Sorry I'm not a mechanic. Grab a wrench or something to pull it off. You'll see the gear I'm talking about at the end of the "distributorless" thingy...

bucky
07-28-2005, 03:32 PM
Excellent. I'll check tonight. Gonna buy a new thermostat as a critical spare, also.



Bucky, You're right no distributor, but there is still a for a lack of the correct techincal term a round metal thing in place of the Dist cap. It's a little larger than a silver dollar, and about 3 times as thick. Located on the top center rear portion of the engine. Sorry I'm not a mechanic. Grab a wrench or something to pull it off. You'll see the gear I'm talking about at the end of the "distributorless" thingy...

bucky
07-29-2005, 12:52 AM
Just pulled the silver thingy. turns out it's kind of fake distributor shaft. It has a gear at the bottom that is turned by the cam, which in turn turns the oil pump shaft. All steel or bronze, no visible damage.
When I was removing it, I noticed some red markings on the top. Putting it back, I rotated it and realized it was an "R" that someone had written on it. I assume it stands for "Recall".
Also, beneath and behind it was a bolt with several ground wires attached to the block. Barely. I tightend this nut, changed oil and filter, and fired her up on the hose. The oil pressure guage held steady. Will do more watching on the lake this week, one of the benefits of shift work being that we work 3 weeks (14 twelve hour days spread out) then have a week off starting 18:00 today. See y'all in a week and thanks for the help! :dance: :toast:

agua4fun
07-29-2005, 08:11 AM
Thanks for all of the help guys, I called my local shop (1 hour away) ,they think that i am having multiple problems at once, and said they could get me in in just a few days. Usually they are weeks behind so im going to take them up on it.

Sounds like you may have found your problem bucky. Hopefully mine is just as simple.

thanks for the quick replies
Dave Z

JimN
07-29-2005, 09:34 AM
The plugs need to be checked to see which are not firing. If you see water on any of them, it could be from a variety of causes but don't worry about it until you see it. If the plugs are black and sooty, clean them and run it to see if it clears up. It could just be a bit of water getting into the fuel line(highly unlikely since the fuel pump filter won't pass molecules larger than 5 microns), or the coolant temperature sensor/harness could be bad. If the ECM sees an open sensor or a really low temperature from it, it increases the amount of fuel delivered.

You need to take a gas sample and check the fuel pressure. If you have a clogged fuel filter, you won't go fast. How old are the spark plugs? Make sure you have AC MR43LTS plugs in it. Also, you're due for plug wires. They should do a compression test, too.

jmac197
07-29-2005, 09:40 AM
...... How old are the spark plugs? Make sure you have AC MR43LTS plugs in it. Also, you're due for plug wires. They should do a compression test, too.
JimN

I've been looking for these plugs all over, to no avail. Where are they found? I went to NAPA and all the standard autoparts places. They wanted to sell me their non-marine equivalent.

Thanks
Jim

JimN
07-29-2005, 09:48 AM
NAPA can get them and any other place that sells AC plugs can, too. I just called a local parts dealer and the warehouse has them in stock.

jmac197
07-29-2005, 10:22 AM
I just called NAPA and they have them in stock.....my bad or my bad timing not sure. Thanks JimN....

Sorry all for the threadjack.....

JimN
07-29-2005, 10:24 AM
How much are they? If they cost much more than $2.25, they're charging too much.

jmac197
07-29-2005, 10:36 AM
$1.99

my manual states that the '02 LTR requires the MR43LTST. Note the extra T on the end of the part number. What does that extra T stand for? Can I use the MR43LTS?

The NAPA guy looked in the front of the book and thought that it meant that the plug was for a tapered seat. Make sense?

Thanks
Jim

JimN
07-29-2005, 10:48 AM
I don't remember the tapered seat, but I believe the last T is referring to that. Call MC to verify this.

OhioProstar
07-29-2005, 11:15 AM
Message Engine Nut and he can let you know if your engine can run the LTS plugs.

Engine Nut
07-29-2005, 12:55 PM
$1.99

my manual states that the '02 LTR requires the MR43LTST. Note the extra T on the end of the part number. What does that extra T stand for? Can I use the MR43LTS?

The NAPA guy looked in the front of the book and thought that it meant that the plug was for a tapered seat. Make sense?

Thanks
Jim

That extra T at the end of the number must be an error. I checked the MR43LTS plugs in out stock and they have tapered seats. They are the correct plugs for all LT1's and 5.7's with Vortec Heads.

Engine Nut