PDA

View Full Version : connecting a fat sac to the existing hard tanks


ktm29
07-25-2011, 12:22 AM
connecting a fat sac to the existing hard tanks.


This is what i think let me know if I'm missing anything or doing it wrong. atach the stock hard tank over flow line to the fat sac in line. Hook the fat sac exit (over flow line) to the over flow exit of the boat? This will alow me to use the existing pump.

Do I need to use any one way valves if so were?

Is there any marine qick connects that are good to use and dont leak?

73blue
07-25-2011, 07:18 AM
Check this thread out. Some pretty good info.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=41235

nmcjr
07-25-2011, 01:40 PM
There's no benefit to keeping the hard tanks in place, only potential hassle/problems. Just remove the hard tanks and replace them with larger bags. Wakemakers.com has all the fittings you will need, give them a call, they're really helpful.

CantRepeat
07-25-2011, 02:32 PM
There's no benefit to keeping the hard tanks in place, only potential hassle/problems. Just remove the hard tanks and replace them with larger bags. Wakemakers.com has all the fittings you will need, give them a call, they're really helpful.

If your hard tanks are under the floor then there is no reason to pull them out. ;)

lawdogg149
07-25-2011, 02:36 PM
wakemakers.com makes a kit with all connectors to do this.

nmcjr
07-25-2011, 02:55 PM
If your hard tanks are under the floor then there is no reason to pull them out. ;)

Yeah, I can see your point, although I have a friend with a natique with under floor rear hard tanks and there are times that it gives him fits. Filling is not a problem, but sometimes when emptying, the vents on the bags will suck in on themselves which then prevents the hard tanks from draining. To fix this he had to add second vents to the bags. This works fine most of the time, but has cluttered up his lockers. Also, one of his tanks cracked, I'm guessing from the added pressure of having to fill the bag on top. I'm a big fan of simplifying ballast systems as much as possible, so my vote is always for bags only.

CantRepeat
07-25-2011, 03:02 PM
Yeah, I can see your point, although I have a friend with a natique with under floor rear hard tanks and there are times that it gives him fits. Filling is not a problem, but sometimes when emptying, the vents on the bags will suck in on themselves which then prevents the hard tanks from draining. To fix this he had to add second vents to the bags. This works fine most of the time, but has cluttered up his lockers. Also, one of his tanks cracked, I'm guessing from the added pressure of having to fill the bag on top. I'm a big fan of simplifying ballast systems as much as possible, so my vote is always for bags only.

I'm a big fan of either removing the hard tanks, if on top of the floor, or adding new thru-hulls and pumps for additional ballast. ;) Having the ability to fill both hard tank and surf bag at the same time is sweet. Better yet, filling 1800 lbs of ballest in less then 10 minutes is really sweet.

lawdogg149
07-25-2011, 04:41 PM
wake makers add on kit on port side works great for me. Fill and empty time around 6 mins

CoreyWakeboard
08-10-2011, 01:03 PM
connecting a fat sac to the existing hard tanks.


This is what i think let me know if I'm missing anything or doing it wrong. atach the stock hard tank over flow line to the fat sac in line. Hook the fat sac exit (over flow line) to the over flow exit of the boat? This will alow me to use the existing pump.

Do I need to use any one way valves if so were?

Is there any marine qick connects that are good to use and dont leak?


I purchased the Fly High system for additional ballasts which added bags while using the same stock pumps. Simply, they use a three way valve to divert flow from either hard tank or bag. Stock system remains the same. Bag vent/overflow is t'd into the existing over flow with a one way valve. Go to their website and they have drawings of the setup...and their connections are pretty good.