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mcrowe
07-15-2011, 08:04 AM
Hey guys,

I have a 2001 x30 with the LTR engine. I am getting a random check engine light at idle and low rpm. Anything over about 1500rpm and it turns off. I am planning on making the engine code reader and checking it as soon as I can. In the mean time does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Thanks,

Matt

mcrowe
07-18-2011, 09:15 AM
Ok I just returned from a great weekend at Rough River Lake in Kentucky. Before leaving for the trip I did the paper clip test for an engine code. All I got was a flash followed by a pause and then two quick flashes. Please correct me if I am wrong, but this should be a code 12? I got this sequence over and over again until I turned it off. If someone could help me out I would appreciate it.

All weekend the boat ran well, however the check engine light intermittently flashes while running the boat. ( at any rpm now). The way that it flashes faintly and stays on more solid others leads me to think its some electrical?

mcrowe
07-19-2011, 07:36 AM
Does anyone have any ideas where I can start?

chico
07-19-2011, 07:48 PM
12 flashing means the ECM diagnostic system is working,looks like you should have it hooked up to a scanner

mcrowe
07-22-2011, 09:08 AM
This may be a rather obvious question, but here goes. If there was possibly something blocking the cooling system a little could it cause this intermittent check engine light? The reason I ask is because my engine temp usually sits right at 160, but recently has been just a little above that from time to time. While I was sitting filling ballast last night I had a thought. Our lake this year has been overcome with weeds. It is possible that I have been sucking them up and blocking the cooling system a little. I am going to check it out today when I get home from work. Could it be possible?

JimN
07-22-2011, 09:39 AM
This may be a rather obvious question, but here goes. If there was possibly something blocking the cooling system a little could it cause this intermittent check engine light? The reason I ask is because my engine temp usually sits right at 160, but recently has been just a little above that from time to time. While I was sitting filling ballast last night I had a thought. Our lake this year has been overcome with weeds. It is possible that I have been sucking them up and blocking the cooling system a little. I am going to check it out today when I get home from work. Could it be possible?

What does the oil pressure gauge show?

mcrowe
07-22-2011, 10:07 AM
Normally the oil pressure is between 40-80. It fluctuates at different loads.

ahhudgins
07-22-2011, 10:14 AM
I’m not familiar with the 2001 so I’m just asking….are you sure this is the “check engine” light? My 95 has several idiot lights on the dash for engine and transmission temperature and v-drive oil.

Flashing “12” means no faults were stored, that’s why I’m asking.

mcrowe
07-22-2011, 10:46 AM
I’m not familiar with the 2001 so I’m just asking….are you sure this is the “check engine” light? My 95 has several idiot lights on the dash for engine and transmission temperature and v-drive oil.

Flashing “12” means no faults were stored, that’s why I’m asking.

Ya, my boat has a light labeled "check engine" and another light labeled "drain plug" those are the only two idiot lights in 01.

JimN
07-22-2011, 02:35 PM
Ya, my boat has a light labeled "check engine" and another light labeled "drain plug" those are the only two idiot lights in 01.

Since you mentioned the second light, have you ever wrapped Teflon tape around your hull plug? That will make the drain plug light go on.

mcrowe
07-25-2011, 02:37 PM
UPDATE: I finally figured out what the issue was. As I had suspected, it was debris in the cooling sustem! There were some leftover rubber particles from the last impeller and the main culprit was a large chunk of seaweed. It seems the seaweed was allowing water to flow through enough to cool the engine. The CEL was on randomly and blinked because the heat would get just above the computers comfortable limit, the light would engage, and then it would go on and off as the temp fluctuated a maximum of say 7 degrees....I really did not think the CEL would come on for this reason unless it was really overheating.

Thanks for all your help guys! This explains why it was not throwing a code....

JimN
07-25-2011, 04:02 PM
UPDATE: I finally figured out what the issue was. As I had suspected, it was debris in the cooling sustem! There were some leftover rubber particles from the last impeller and the main culprit was a large chunk of seaweed. It seems the seaweed was allowing water to flow through enough to cool the engine. The CEL was on randomly and blinked because the heat would get just above the computers comfortable limit, the light would engage, and then it would go on and off as the temp fluctuated a maximum of say 7 degrees....I really did not think the CEL would come on for this reason unless it was really overheating.

Thanks for all your help guys! This explains why it was not throwing a code....

How often do you clear out the oil cooler? The manual used to recommend that every time the boat goes out, along with checking the oil, etc.

ahhudgins
07-25-2011, 04:31 PM
That is where my lack of knowledge on the newer boats confuses me. Why wouldn't a check engine light store a code whether it is 7 degrees or 20 degrees over?

mcrowe
07-25-2011, 05:39 PM
Correct me if I am wrong (JimN)...but I believe the reason the code was not stored was due to the fact that it never actually would stay on consistently enough to store it?

Jim - I am heading to Rough River, KY this weekend..I think it may be a good idea to look into this oil cooler deal. Also....I know for a fact that my engine burns some oil. This is to be expected on a boat with 1725+ hours for a 2001. When I look at the engine the valve covers seem to have some oil residue. I am thinking that maybe they are leaking....probably going to take care of that soon. I will post a pic soon. I am hoping this think will make it to 2000 hours before a rebuild....but with around 3500+ lbs of ballast it sure does get some work. I just make sure to change oil every 50 hrs....etc

mcrowe
07-25-2011, 05:43 PM
Jim -

I just looked at what exactly the oil cooler looks like. This is where all the debris was. Also, this has happened twice. I have a question for you on this. The line from the raw water pump to the oil cooler is a special molded tube. Can I replace this with a better made regular tube? My dealer installed a new bilge and put it under the cooler line, I also have some ballast lines running under there as well. As a result, the tube tends to get worn down from vibration and will eventually break again. I have replaced a few of these.....

JimN
07-25-2011, 07:30 PM
Normally, an overheat is indicated by going into RPM reduction but there's no code. If the engine gets hot but not hot enough, or for long enough, it may stumble but that's all. Once the engine has a definite overheat, the ECM stores the event for 300 key ON/OFF cycles.

JimN
07-25-2011, 07:33 PM
Jim -

I just looked at what exactly the oil cooler looks like. This is where all the debris was. Also, this has happened twice. I have a question for you on this. The line from the raw water pump to the oil cooler is a special molded tube. Can I replace this with a better made regular tube? My dealer installed a new bilge and put it under the cooler line, I also have some ballast lines running under there as well. As a result, the tube tends to get worn down from vibration and will eventually break again. I have replaced a few of these.....

If you replace the hose, use the OEM part and keep any other lines, hoses and cable looms away from it. You may be able to find large black plastic loom that can fit around the hose, to protect it from the dealer, er, bilge pump. Otherwise, you could use wire ties to keep the lines and hoses where you want.

JimN
07-25-2011, 07:37 PM
Correct me if I am wrong (JimN)...but I believe the reason the code was not stored was due to the fact that it never actually would stay on consistently enough to store it?

Jim - I am heading to Rough River, KY this weekend..I think it may be a good idea to look into this oil cooler deal. Also....I know for a fact that my engine burns some oil. This is to be expected on a boat with 1725+ hours for a 2001. When I look at the engine the valve covers seem to have some oil residue. I am thinking that maybe they are leaking....probably going to take care of that soon. I will post a pic soon. I am hoping this think will make it to 2000 hours before a rebuild....but with around 3500+ lbs of ballast it sure does get some work. I just make sure to change oil every 50 hrs....etc

I would bet that the oil is from the hold-down bolts and/or the breather/PCV. If you don't see smoke in the exhaust or oil in the bilge, you're not using much oil and unless you have serious performance issues, I wouldn't worry about the engine. The one in my truck has close to 300K miles on it and it runs great. The only work I have done to it is replace the starter, the knock sensor (the ceramic insulator broke, possibly driving through snow or slush/ice) and the valve seals.

mcrowe
07-28-2011, 09:37 AM
The check engine light went away for a few days, and is now back on as of late last night. I am almost positive I have sucked up more weeds, they are really bad on our lake this year. Also, I have been searching for material on the most commonly clogged up areas in the cooling system. I hear the thermostat can get blockage. Can anyone give me tips on this, or how to back-flush the system? I would appreciate it!