PDA

View Full Version : Alternator Upgrade


seth25
07-14-2011, 09:34 AM
2000 Maristar 230 with LTR engine. I have the stock 51 amp alternator and I am wanting to go to around a 90 amp. What's the best place to get an upgrade?

Thanks

Gofast
07-14-2011, 10:25 AM
I went to a local Altenator shop and had a 100 amp Marine Alt built. It cost me around $140.00. My 51 amp altenator went on the shelf as a back-up if needed.

The only issue I had was the case is larger on the higher output amp and I had to modify the brcket so it would clear the alt. case. This was a couple of years ago, involved welding and grinding. Took the weekend to do it because of the bracket. ( Fab work takes time ) It looks factory and you would not know the differance.

Rob

JimN
07-14-2011, 10:59 AM
2000 Maristar 230 with LTR engine. I have the stock 51 amp alternator and I am wanting to go to around a 90 amp. What's the best place to get an upgrade?

Thanks

The OEM case can be upgraded to 90A- call around for an auto electric rebuilder in your area. A speed shop should be able to tell you who's good.

etduc
07-14-2011, 11:14 AM
I went to a local Altenator shop and had a 100 amp Marine Alt built. It cost me around $140.00. My 51 amp altenator went on the shelf as a back-up if needed.

The only issue I had was the case is larger on the higher output amp and I had to modify the brcket so it would clear the alt. case. This was a couple of years ago, involved welding and grinding. Took the weekend to do it because of the bracket. ( Fab work takes time ) It looks factory and you would not know the differance.

Rob
Wsup Rob. Did you ever get, a new boat?

seth25
07-14-2011, 11:57 AM
Thanks for the help. I am calling around to shops, but my boat is in storage and I forgot to get the manufacturer. Do you know who makes the stock alternator?

Thanks again.

Gofast
07-18-2011, 11:41 AM
Seth,

I think I have it in my attic. I'll check tonight. Probably just says Indmar.....

Etduc,

Still looking. Hard to go from no payments to payments.....Will be at Broken Bow for labor day weekend. Hope to see you.

Rob

seth25
07-18-2011, 12:26 PM
I got the numbers, thanks for the offer.

Jeff d
07-18-2011, 01:35 PM
If rebuilding isn't an option I think you could go with either of these:
http://www.spidermarine.com/ShowItem/105186%20New%20Motorola,%20Leece%20Neville%2012v%2 090%20Amp%20Alternator.aspx
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-3633-new-alternator-john-deere-4039-4045-6068-6076-marine-amo0042.aspx

You'd want to run a larger wire from the charging post on the new alternator to the positive post on the starter solenoid to accommodate the increase in amperage. Something like an 8 gauge or larger (Smaller #) should do. just leave the factory charging wire as is and connect both to the charging post on the alternator.

I've got the same engine and am looking at upgrading mine too. Haven't pulled the trigger yet but rebuilding the alternator is not an option for me. It's very corroded and has a screwed up fan and I was told it would cost more to rebuild than to just buy a new one.

Jeff d
07-18-2011, 01:39 PM
Oh and your factory alternator is likely a Leece-Neville 51 amp. Part numbers vary but mine ('00 230 VRS w/ LTR) is an 8MR2044K 110-494

seth25
07-18-2011, 02:14 PM
Mine is a 8mr2084k. Other than upgrading the charge wire, the the spider marine a direct bolt on? Also I have a dual battery setup with perko switch.

Thanks for the help!

Jeff d
07-18-2011, 02:35 PM
Mine is a 8mr2084k. Other than upgrading the charge wire, the the spider marine a direct bolt on? Also I have a dual battery setup with perko switch.

Thanks for the help!

I believe it will be a direct bolt on but I have not actually done it so I'm not 100% sure. I don't think the perko switch will have any effect on how you'd install the beefier charging wire but I don't have that type of setup so once again I'm unsure.

I'm also considering this alternator:
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-3610-new-delco-marine-alternator-mercruiser-3-wire-105-amp-10si-ho-adr0106.aspx

According to DBElectrical it would bolt in without issue. It's really cheap for the output. I've read a lot of anecdotal accounts on boat and auto forums with positive feedback on the DB Electrical alternators. I actually have a starter from them and it's been great for about a year with 30ish engine hours. In pretty much every thread someone comes in and claims that they're probably Chinese crap but with no first hand experience with the manufacturer or the part in question. My starter from them was Chinese but so many things are these days it's nearly impossible to avoid. Their alternators are supposedly made in TN and IL but they didn't mention if that was with Chinese sourced parts. I'd bet a lot of rebuilders use Chinese parts too.

So, I'm on the fence about which way to go at the moment. I'd be pretty pissed if I spent the extra on that 90 amp Leece-Neville alternator and it said Made in China though.

jconover
07-18-2011, 05:07 PM
I would call them. They sold me a 120A marinized alternator for my 88 PS with an Indmar 454 for about $110. Was a great deal, and seems to be working perfectly

Jeff d
07-19-2011, 06:36 PM
I pulled the trigger on the 105 amp 10SI from DBElectrical. I couldn't say no to the <$70 shipped price. I will report back when I get it installed.

craig3972
07-19-2011, 07:20 PM
I put a DB 200A on my mcx this year and I dont even notice it - I guess that means its doing it job. My batteries rarely need a shore charge at the end of the night now.
My DB alt. looked as though it had been rebuilt in thier shop due to the new paint on it. I paid $395 for mine - I think because it makes 120A @idle speed, not cheap tho.

seth25
07-20-2011, 02:44 PM
Just checked my wiring. I don't have a wire going directly from the alternator to the batteries. I have a small orange and a small purple wire that go into a harness that go ??? I have a buss 40A box or relay or something near my batteries and the wires go from there to my perko switch. I have heard to upgrade my charge wire when doing this. It is supposed to run directly to my batteries, but I am not seeing it. Any suggestion?

Thanks

Jeff d
07-20-2011, 03:39 PM
You shouldn't have a wire going "directly" to the battery on the OEM harness. If you want to follow the heavier gauge red wire from the alternator you will end up at the battery side of the 50 amp breaker on the port side of the engine. So, the "charge" from the alternator goes back to the breaker (Not through the breaker) then back to the battery.

The easiest way to accommodate a higher amperage alternator is to just run a supplemental 4-8 ga wire from the charging post on the alternator to the + post on the starter solenoid. From there it will get back to the battery via the large starting wire (Usually 0-4 ga). I assume yours will make a pit stop at the Perko swich but that shouldn't change anything. I'd just leave the factory charging wire in place but it should work without it.

I can't remember which is which but for the purple and black wires one is constant +12 volts and the other is +12 volts when the engine is running. This would be your typical 3 wire, non-self energizing alternator. This would be as opposed to a single wire, self energizing alternator.

Jeff d
07-23-2011, 11:20 AM
Well, I got the 10si in and it's a beast compared to the factory alternator. I don't think I'm going to be able to make it work without excessive effort though. The mounting holes match up fine but the larger diameter of the body makes contact with the bracket in a few places preventing it from falling into place. 2 of the spots could be easily ground away without compromising strength but one of the spots where the bolt goes though the top might crack over time if I thin it out too much.

I'll look at it more but I think I'm just going to return it and get the much more expensive prestolite type.

JimN
07-23-2011, 03:32 PM
Well, I got the 10si in and it's a beast compared to the factory alternator. I don't think I'm going to be able to make it work without excessive effort though. The mounting holes match up fine but the larger diameter of the body makes contact with the bracket in a few places preventing it from falling into place. 2 of the spots could be easily ground away without compromising strength but one of the spots where the bolt goes though the top might crack over time if I thin it out too much.

I'll look at it more but I think I'm just going to return it and get the much more expensive prestolite type.

Call the source and ask if they have an adapter kit, or look online.

seth25
08-02-2011, 11:21 AM
Any update on the alternator?

Jeff d
08-02-2011, 12:52 PM
Well, earlier in the season my alternator broke off due to the LTR bracket recall not being done. This resulted in the upper bolt being broken off in the hole. Long story short I couldn't get the bolt out and drilled a slightly offset hole in the upper ear of the bracket because I didn't want to buy another one for $110.

Fast forward to last week and I had suspicions that the slightly offset hole was causing an alignment issue with the original alternator since I kept loosing fan fins without explanation. so I figured what the heck and experimented on it with the grinder some to clear the 10SI. It took pretty minor modifications so I ordered a new bracket which I should be picking up today. Once I get the bracket I will repeat my grinder mods on it and bolt everything back up.

Jeff d
08-03-2011, 12:58 AM
Got the new bracket and strangely it was already machined to clear a larger alternator. I still had to spend 5 mins or so clearancing a couple of spots but 90% of the work was done. I guess they offered a larger alternator on later models and this part was a more recent revision than mine.

I put it in and everything bolted up fine but the 10si came with a smaller pulley. This seemed like a good idea for better charging at idle but theres not enough tension on the belt now. I thought no big deal I will swap pulleys with the factory alternator. No love there as there were irreconcileable differences between the pulleys. I guess my next step will be to go to NAPA and find a belt that's 5/8" smaller in circumference.

I've grown tired of this project at this point. I'm confident that I will have a working solution in the end but it's more trouble than it's worth. If I was going to do it over I'd go for a 90 amp Leece-Neville, a heavier charging lead and hopefully it would just bolt right up.

Jeff d
08-06-2011, 12:10 AM
Finally found a belt that gave the appropriate tension. There were so many variables involved especially since the LTR already has like 3 different belt options depending on water pump pulley size and what not that I don't know that the part number of the belt would be of any use to anyone else. In case it would be it was AutoZone part number 485K6.

I added a supplemental 10 ga charging wire from the alternator to the + post on the starter solenoid. Also, apparently all "3 wire" alternators don't work the same way. The factory Leece Neville with external regulator was a "3 wire" but that consisted of a +12 ignition switched wire, a ground for the regulator, and a larger gauge charging wire. The Delco style with the internal regulator had no ground wire but had an extra constant +12 wire. This was easy enough to correct by looping the constant +12 wire back to the charging post. Many online sources and DBElectrical's tech support said this was the typical way to handle it. The factory regulator ground wire went unused.

I haven't had a chance to water test it but I started it in the driveway for about 5 seconds. Before I was always bouncing between 12 and 13 volts on the dash volt meter. My alternator had more problems than just being 51 amps. When I started it with the new 105 amp alternator the gauge shot straight up to 14 volts and stayed there.

If it continues to work well I will be happy with the upgrade. Still on the fence about whether I should have gotten the 90 amp OEM style with the external regulator just to make things easier. I still would have had to add a bigger wire, replace the bracket (damaged earlier in the season), and fix some of the corroded terminals on the end of the wire. I wouldn't have had to deal with the belt search fiasco but I would have had to deal with removing the factory pulley which was seized on there. I attempted to remove it when I though I could throw it on the new one and use the same belt he nut came right off with the impact wrench but even after soaking overnight in penetrating lube I couldn't get it off. I would have also paid a lot more for the alternator itself. So, I guess I have no regrets about it if it behaves itself on the water for the foreseeable future.

Jeff d
08-10-2011, 11:07 PM
I've put a couple of hours on the engine and this 105 amp 10si setup is working perfectly. I ran wide open for a couple of minutes in two different runs to make sure nothing went haywire (i.e belt kicking off of the pulleys) and didn't have any trouble. I've been on a 4 day trip to a lake and kinda forgot that I had changed it accept for the fact that my volt meter always shows just a hair shy of 14 volts where it used to bounce between 12 and just shy of 13.

Jeff d
08-10-2011, 11:11 PM
Btw don't make fun of my 2 engine hrs on a 4 day trip. We have very young kids and they've preferred to swim and fish vs. any pulled behind the boat activity. I've only gotten in 2 wake boarding sets in 3 days and my driver (dad) went home today :(. The wife is 8 months pregnant but we will be doing some boat driving lessons in the AM

milehigh970
08-11-2011, 12:32 AM
Nice job on the alternator.. Now get those kids in check! ;) i have a 4 year old and 4 month old daughters. There on the boat 4 days a week normally :)