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RMUDBUGS
07-14-2011, 12:58 AM
I got a new prop from Eric at OJ props. I have never installed one before so. What do I need to know? Thanks

bigmac
07-14-2011, 07:04 AM
I got a new prop from Eric at OJ props. I have never installed one before so. What do I need to know? Thanks

First thing you need to know is whether you have a tapered shaft or splined shaft.

RMUDBUGS
07-14-2011, 10:31 AM
Tapered shaft

east tx skier
07-14-2011, 10:44 AM
Here is the procedure in an older owner's manual. To be honest, I have not checked the contact area between my prop hub and the shaft (didn't know about this until after I had been running the current prop for a few years). But I know others who do. May tackle it as a small winter project.

O2BESOHUGE
07-14-2011, 10:44 AM
i had to get a torch to heat my old one off...without heat my prop wouldnt even budge!! i heated it up and tapped it with hammer and it fell off into my hands


but then....

i got on here and bought a prop puller and it was easy as cake. i wish i had known about this board before then!

jdl xstar
07-14-2011, 10:47 AM
I got a new prop from Eric at OJ props. I have never installed one before so. What do I need to know? Thanks

Once you remove the cotter pin and nut, i take a 2 x4 and use it as the buffer/pressure distributer behind the base of the prop as i tap it with a hammer. It usually pops off after a few firm taps.

Tight fit between rudder and the shaft so it will take some maneuvering but you'll find that angle where the prop will come right out.

Slide on new prop, tighten nut firmly, and replace with a new STAINLESS steel cotter pin.

bigmac
07-14-2011, 10:49 AM
You'll likely want a puller to facilitate getting the prop off.


Inboard Propeller installation procedureInboard propeller installation procedure

Push propeller snugly onto shaft taper WITHOUT key in either keyway (propeller or shaft)
Make sure the propeller is snug and there is no side to side movement by gently moving propeller back and forth.
Make a line on the shaft with a non-graphite marker at the forward end of the propeller where it stops up against the shaft taper.
Remove propeller.
Put key into keyway on shaft taper with radiused or chamfered corners (down) in shaft keyway (if propeller shaft keyway has radiused corners).
Put propeller onto shaft taper.
Check to see that the propeller moves back to the forward line made in Step 3. If it does, skip down to Step 8. If not, perform the following:
A: Remove propeller from shaft.
B: Place a file on a flat surface area or work bench.
C: Run opposite end of chamfered key back and forth over file (to remove any burs) with a downward pressure on key until side being filed is clean.
D: Install cleaned key in shaft keyway with chamfered corner side down in shaft (the cleaned, filed side up in keyway).
E: Replace the propeller on the shaft and fit snugly on taper. Check to see if it reaches the line make as in Step 7. If it does not line up than repeat "Steps a. through e".
NOTE: A vice can be used to hold key and then filed, but care must be taken not to tighten too much, causing burrs and irregularities on key.

8. When propeller hub moves to correct position, install propeller nut on shaft and torque to seat the propeller. Install the torque jam nut also, if your shaft is so equipped. Install cotter pin at end of the shaft.

Correct Nut Instaltation Procedure: Install Jam Nut (thin) first than the Full nut (thick) goes on second.

RMUDBUGS
07-14-2011, 01:32 PM
Thanks
I bought the spare prop kit that comes with the puller at the same time that I bought the prop.

jbkriss
07-14-2011, 01:45 PM
I tried to get mine off the other day (keyed) with a prop puller and it still wouldn't budge. I'll try heat like mentioned above. Any other pointers? Thanks.

O2BESOHUGE
07-14-2011, 03:53 PM
Yeah, Next Time You Put The New One On, Grease It Before You Put It On. That Way It Wont Stick As Bad Getting It Off Next Time If You Have To

swardco
07-14-2011, 05:18 PM
I am also pulling a prop this week. Hope it goes well. Is a 1991 Prostar 190 splined or tapered??

Thrall
07-14-2011, 05:43 PM
'91 is tapered w/ keyway.
For stuck props, you can try WD40 or similar, but it's a tight fit, so won't help much.
Heat prop as a last resort, b/c Nibral is relatively soft material, but some hating of the prop with a propane or Mapp gas torch should make it expand a bit at pretty low temp. Heat evenly.
Or, after the prop puller is tensioned (nut still partially on the shaft so the prop doesn't come flying off), rap the end of the prop puller with a hammer. The vibration/impact will likely break it loose. Not too hard, the other end is connected to the transmission.

Last resort and I've never tired it, but sounds plausible if you're close to the water. Loosen nut a couple turns. Put boat in the water and nail the throttle a few times in reverse. The thrust of the prop will try to pull it off the shaft. Note if it's tapered, this could shear the key or ding up the keyway on the prop, I'd check it after each hit of the throttle myself.

east tx skier
07-14-2011, 05:49 PM
I tried to get mine off the other day (keyed) with a prop puller and it still wouldn't budge. I'll try heat like mentioned above. Any other pointers? Thanks.

I had my puller torqued down so tight I couldn't get it tighter even with a 14" pipe wrench. 4 minutes with the heat gun on the hub and that prop popped off ... loudly. Make sure the nut is still on there.

trickskier
07-14-2011, 06:08 PM
I had my puller torqued down so tight I couldn't get it tighter even with a 14" pipe wrench. 4 minutes with the heat gun on the hub and that prop popped off ... loudly. Make sure the nut is still on there.

Excellent advice!!!

onejdgreen
07-14-2011, 10:49 PM
2x4 and a big hammer seem to work the best for me...

RMUDBUGS
07-15-2011, 08:30 PM
Well I put the new prop on. Very easy job, it only took a few minutes. The prop puller works wonders. Thanks everyone for your help. I will be on the water Sunday to try this new 13 X 11 out.

TallRedRider
07-16-2011, 09:53 PM
Yeah, Next Time You Put The New One On, Grease It Before You Put It On. That Way It Wont Stick As Bad Getting It Off Next Time If You Have To

X2.

Although I do not think this is such a problem with the splined shafts on the newer models.

airdrew99
07-16-2011, 10:00 PM
i had to get a torch to heat my old one off...without heat my prop wouldnt even budge!! i heated it up and tapped it with hammer and it fell off into my hands


but then....

i got on here and bought a prop puller and it was easy as cake. i wish i had known about this board before then!

Jay,
Did you have trouble getting the prop off your '91? I put anti-seize on the shaft before I installed it last.

Drew

jbkriss
07-19-2011, 11:08 AM
Heat gun worked wonders! Heated the hub up for a couple of minutes, gave the prop puller a tug and off it came. Then used the heat gun some more to loosen some chain-link fence fittings that had siezed up... Think it might be time to buy one of my own soon.

O2BESOHUGE
07-19-2011, 11:51 AM
Jay,
Did you have trouble getting the prop off your '91? I put anti-seize on the shaft before I installed it last.

Drew

NO THE 91 WAS EASY AS PIE DREW...I WAS TALKING ABOUT MY OLD 89. THE 91 CAME OFF REALLY EASY. THANKS!

east tx skier
07-19-2011, 11:52 AM
Well I put the new prop on. Very easy job, it only took a few minutes. The prop puller works wonders. Thanks everyone for your help. I will be on the water Sunday to try this new 13 X 11 out.

Did you check the contact area like Bigmac and I mentioned early on in this thread?

d2jp
07-19-2011, 02:01 PM
Prussian Blue aka Permatex 230-80038 No.35 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PERMATEX-Prussian-Blue-3DPP9?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Adhesives,%20Sealants%20and%20Tape-_-Thread%20and%20Gasket%20Sealants-_-3DPP9&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=3DPP9)

Seems to be the ticket for checking surface contact area....

jbkriss
07-19-2011, 04:43 PM
nevermind.