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woodrowskis
07-12-2011, 06:24 PM
2002 Prostar 197 , 6.0 L with the ZF Hurth transmission

When in gear, transmission sounds like cement mixer at idle and barely above idle in both forward ands reverse. At first it was only in reverse. It is getting worse.
When I get up to speed it sounds fine unless the other noise is simpply covering it up.

I disconnected the the shift cable hoping that it needed adjusting and was not geting into to gear. However, the noise is still there without the cable connected and engaging the shift lever on the transmission by hand.

I looked at the fluid level. It is good. I ordered a filter and plan to change the fluid when it comes in. I did see all the comments about cleaning as opposed to buying but if that is the problem and it is this bad, I'll pay the $70 and get a new one. Can a clogged filter cause this sound? It seems possible since higher rpm (i.e. pressure and flow) seem to cure the problem.

Has anyone got any other ideas? It is sounding bad enough I'll bum a rides until I figure this out.

G-Star
07-12-2011, 06:30 PM
How many hours on your boat?

Based on your description, my first guess would be the damper plate. Not terribly expensive, but a bit of a PITA to change out.

woodrowskis
07-12-2011, 06:47 PM
right around 700 hours.

that would be cheap and I can do it. Any tricks to confirm without pulling the tranny?

G-Star
07-12-2011, 06:59 PM
I'm afraid I don't know of any tricks. An experienced ear with a mechanic's stethoscope might help.

Jerseydave
07-12-2011, 08:11 PM
I'm no expert, but if higher rpms make the noise go away, sounds like you need a damper plate. I wouldn't run her any more until you take care of it.

Be happy it's not a V-drive.....Prostars are much easier to work on.

dmminfla
07-12-2011, 08:13 PM
right around 700 hours.

that would be cheap and I can do it. Any tricks to confirm without pulling the tranny?

Pull the starter and look for metal shavings.

woodrowskis
07-14-2011, 10:32 AM
thanks guys. I hope you are correct. I will pull the tranny in the next couple of days.
I will do my best to watch some posts to help others out and repay the favor.

I have had an 86 Mastercraft from 1989 til 2002 and and the 2002 from then until now.

trickskier
07-14-2011, 06:02 PM
Pull the starter and look for metal shavings.

:confused::confused::confused:

woodrowskis
07-15-2011, 12:19 PM
I neglected to mention I do intend to pull the starter first.

I did have a starter failure on my 86 mastercraft and when I pulled it I found a piecce of spring from the damper plate. So I am familiar with this.
Question is, if I don't see anything, do I keep going?
I will be doing this tomorrow morning.

G-Star
07-15-2011, 12:46 PM
Based on the "sounds like rocks in my transmission" comment, I think you've got not choice but to pull the transmission. Hopefully, as soon as you pull it you will just see a broken damper plate. If not, I guess your next step would be to crack the transmission and start looking for rocks. And you might as well replace your shaft seals if you've got the transmission apart.

But, I still think I'd take "Damper Plate" for "$400" please, Alex. Let us know how it works out.

woodrowskis
07-21-2011, 11:22 AM
Pulled starter, no signs of problems. Went ahead and pulled transmission to get to damper plate. It looks fine. No signs of shavings or pieces in the bell housings.
I think I can get the transmissipon on a test stand other side of Houston.
Not sure about pulling transmission apart. Wasn't sure if that part was a joke. I realize the looking for rocks was. Any other ideas? Pulling transmission apart may be above my expertise and I have heard buying parts for ZF Hurth transmissions is just about impossible.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-21-2011, 11:37 AM
Sounds like a test stand would be a good option here.

stewvette
07-21-2011, 11:52 AM
Your damper plate may not be totally broken. But it will make noise when the springs are loose and rattling in the damper. Mine didn't look bad when I took it out but it did rattle when in gear.

G-Star
07-21-2011, 12:01 PM
Your damper plate may not be totally broken. But it will make noise when the springs are loose and rattling in the damper. Mine didn't look bad when I took it out but it did rattle when in gear.

Wow. That new one looks pretty beefy. What is it?

woodrowskis
07-21-2011, 12:03 PM
Interesting. Did you find or do anything that lead you to believe this would fix it or just install and hope? I am thinking it will take me a good 4 hrs to install. The plate has been ordered and should be here any day.
But the test stand is an hour away so there and back twice is 4 hrs as well.
Also I noticed on your old damper picture and my damper there seems to be a couple of springs that appear to have wear or rub marks on them. Thats seems odd to me. Yours are at 12:00, 1: 00, and 3:00. Have a clue what that is about? There should not be anything there to rub

duckguy
07-21-2011, 12:17 PM
Question for you guys. Would this condition also result in a lower wide open throttle engine rpm/reduced top speed?

blakehardesty
07-21-2011, 12:23 PM
My transmission sounds like that too. I have been meaning to get it taken care of but havnt yet. It is on my list for the fall. I suppose I better order one and have it for when I need it.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-21-2011, 12:28 PM
Question for you guys. Would this condition also result in a lower wide open throttle engine rpm/reduced top speed?

The possible change in speed/rpm would occur if the pressure plate was slipping. Result would be higher rpm and lower speed - being more pronounced at higher rpm.

stewvette
07-21-2011, 12:36 PM
Ya the new damper plate I put in was an R & D. I got it from PYI www.pyiinc.com. The guy there was real helpful on getting the correct one. It is fail safe so even if it does break you can still drive the boat. I thought that the noise was from it by doing alot of research from this forum and talking with some people. When I had mine out the springs were slightly loose. They could be spun by hand easily. I would spend the time and try replacing it. Its alot cheaper than a trans rebuild and you should replace the damper plate while you have the trans out anyway.

woodrowskis
07-27-2011, 10:04 AM
My boat work had to wait a bit. Other issues came up such as truck breaking down. I have replaced the flex plate (which did not appear to be damaged, there were two springs I could roll about 1/4".) The transmission is amost installed. Just hoses, shift cable, whatever wiring was disconnected, and I will finish and test run today.
I am not optimistic though. When I pulled the transmission, I spun the shaft and things felt/sounded ok. I did not think to spin the back end (duh) as I hav been working hurriedly. But upon reconecting the coupling and rolling the shaft for bolt access, I think I am getting a grinding feeling out of the hub end of the tranny. I found one bolt loose on the transmission mount bracket but it was only one that acts like a set screw on the round shaft and keeps the bracket from rotating and/or or sliding in and out. With transmission bolted on and 4 bolts on the bracket, I do not think that was part of my problem.

I did neglect to note/record which hose goes to which position on the transmission.
For 2002 6.0L with Hurth transmission, anyone happen to know which hose goes to which. Both hoses go to left bank of engine ( one more forward than the other) and then to the rear of the transmission ( one connection slightly in front of the other.) I think I can figure it out but this would speed it up.
I think it is oil going to and from the oil cooler so it probably does not even matter (or barely makes a difference flow versus ). I'll still try to do it right though.

woodrowskis
07-29-2011, 03:59 PM
1.New flex plate was installed. Did not fix.
2. Transmission pulled and sent to Palmer Power of Houston and tested (they run it but can't put but a very light load on it). They say the transmission is fine and that something is causing torsionals in the shaft that is making the transmission have noise. I don't know I am confident in their assessment but there is no sign of metal shavings or wear in the transmission and I have to agree on that much. I am not saying I dispute them, I just don't know.
3. Yesterday I confirmed that prop was going on the shaft all the way and that the key is not holding it back. (plus two props have been on, one is new but the other has been proven in the past not to have problems.) Surely one of these would have gone on correctly.
4. Now, (after I re-instal tranny) I am going to really look at alignment, packing, and harder look at strut bearing. Hard to believe those could make the sound I am hearing.

Any other ideas? I have had a bad plug before in this boat and it gave a vibration but nothing like a grinding noise. I am not sure what all on engine could cause torsionals. Engine seems strong and gets up to 40 with ease where I held it back. I feel confident it would go full speed.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-29-2011, 04:04 PM
I'm no expert on this, but I would look hard at that strut bushing.

oldairboater
07-29-2011, 04:59 PM
+1,I would look at the strut bearing also. I have never replaced one but like everything mechanical---one day.I'm no expert on this, but I would look hard at that strut bushing.

woodrowskis
07-31-2011, 10:47 AM
Update 7-31. Still problems. I got the transmission back after the shop tested and said all was well. But I am getting slowly smarter. I meant to see if the noise was there after disconnecting the coupling as I was in the process of pulling the transmission off and forgot. This time I installed the transmission on the engine. Before connecting the coupling, I dropped it in the water and the noise is there. None of the drive shaft is attached. Packing, shaft, strut are all eliminated.

The problem can only be in the engine or transmission. The noise is still only in gear. I felt around and can feel a slight bumping/tapping in the lower half of the bell housing. I was previously wondering if the noise was going away or being drowned out at higher speed. I did confirm that I no longer feel the vibration in the bell housing when I speed the engine up.
I was sure hoping it would be gone and I would be looking at the shaft and propellar components.
I am lost now.

erkoehler
07-31-2011, 10:49 AM
I didn't read the whole thread, did you inspect the dampner plate?

lanier92prostar
07-31-2011, 11:41 AM
Erk, he already replaced it.

G-Star
07-31-2011, 11:41 AM
Just a couple thoughts...

So, you've eliminated the shaft/packing/log/strut, and the shop test has basically eliminated the transmission, and you've replaced the damper plate, and you still have the noise. I can understand your confusion.

You've basically eliminated everything behind the flywheel, but you still only get the noise when in gear. And everything in front of the flywheel is more or less mechanically doing the same thing whether in gear or not. This is weird. :(

I still think it wouldn't be a bad idea to poke around with a mechanic's stethoscope and see if you can't pinpoint the source of the noise. Could it possibly be detonation, lugging, gremlins in the bottom end, etc. that only appear under load and are transferring crankshaft/bottom end vibrations out to the transmission/bellhousing and making it sound like the transmission? Have you noticed any deterioration in performance? Holeshot, top speed, etc.?

thatsmrmastercraft
07-31-2011, 11:52 AM
Thinking out loud..................how about a problem with an engine or transmission mounting point?

The8Ball
07-31-2011, 01:10 PM
I found this service advisory, from Indmar:

ftp://ftp2.indmar.us/Service%20Advisories/SV2001-2%20Hurth%20Trans%20Noise.pdf

There may be nothing wrong.

We have received a number of complaints regarding rattling or noisy ZF/Hurth reduction gears
(V-drive or in-line). The noise is most pronounced at idle RPM and typically goes away when the
engine RPM is raised above idle. Although the noise can be irritating, this is a normal condition
with these transmissions that in no way affects the durability or reliability of the unit.

In an effort to reduce the gear rattle noise at low RPM; the transmission manufacturer has
suggested that we change from the current Dexron 3 transmission fluid that we use in the
transmission to 15W40 motor oil.

I also have a Hurth transmission in my boat. 98 PS 205. I feel lucky. It works great... no noises, other than the reverse gear whine, which is "normal." It doesn't seem right that you would ever put motor oil in a transmission. But I guess, that is what they recommend... if you have this "problem."

Good luck. It is frustrating working on boats sometimes. This advisory came out in Nov 2001. Your boat is an 02. So... This advisory could be applicable...

woodrowskis
07-31-2011, 01:30 PM
I am aware of the bulletin. This noise is well beyond the transmission noise the bulletin speaks of. And I am using 15-40 instead of transmission fluid.

When feeling for vibration, I did put my hands on the rear mounts and felt nothing. I only detected on the bell housing which is in front of the gearing. I also felt nothing on the rear of the engine.
I am about to go out and check for any other points of vibration, visually inspect motor mounts, look at plugs (maybe pick up a misfire). Feel front end of engine, see if I detect anything up there.

woodrowskis
07-31-2011, 01:32 PM
Also now that I feel more comfortable that the vibration disappears with higher rpm, I am goping to run it a little harder to test engine performance.

woodrowskis
08-02-2011, 12:56 PM
wouldn't be a bad idea to poke around with a mechanic's stethoscope and see if you can't pinpoint the source of the noise. Could it possibly be detonation, lugging, gremlins in the bottom end, etc. that only appear under load and are transferring crankshaft/bottom end vibrations out to the transmission/bellhousing and making it sound like the transmission? Have you noticed any deterioration in performance? Holeshot, top speed, etc.?


Haven't used a stethoscope before. I'll see if I can rent or borrow. Have not used before but will try if I can find one . One note, barely in gear is not much load and it at least seems to go away at higher speed/load. As far as performance, it feels like it could be barely weak (and I do mean barely weak as I was pulling good times for slalom with perfect pass at 34 mph on Sunday. ) I did pull plugs all looked good. I went ahead and switched them around in case it was one, maybe I would get slightly different symptom by moving it around. But I did not notice in the above mentioned slalom set.

saberworks
08-02-2011, 05:15 PM
You can get a mechanic's stethoscope at an auto parts store for $10.

woodrowskis
08-02-2011, 05:43 PM
thanks on the stethoscope

Mcfoiler
08-02-2011, 09:57 PM
My trans has made a chattering sound at low idol since it was almost new and I was told that was because it has straight cut gears....Could this be true or is it the plate?

jessejames
04-25-2012, 02:04 PM
Woodrow, did you ever find a solution??

I have a 99 Prostar 205 V that sounds just like you describe. I just bought it and the seller told me the noise was normal and has done it since they owned it in 04. I want to make sure that is true though.

Mcfoiler, my boat is basically the same as your Xstar (99, 330HP, V-drive). Did you figure anything out?

Todd X14
04-25-2012, 06:58 PM
Had noises like these in the Hurth trannys before. Actually complained enough to have dealer pull and replace only to have the same thing in the next one after 100 hrs. For what it's worth i had an noise issue with the old Borg Warner tranny in a 1988 boat. when i contacted an engineer at the factory he told me" look, dont get hung up so much about rattle noises just run it". he was right even after 800 hrs...BTW I still listen to everything though.....(Rattle freak)

Todd X14
04-25-2012, 06:59 PM
Sorry but one more thing to add.... Had 5 Malibu's until the 2008 X 14......whew.

B-rad
04-26-2012, 07:29 PM
I have a 99 x-star with the hurth tranny also. The sound of rocks in there is normal. Its the lash cut in the gears, you can dampen them by using 20-50 motor oil and there are all kinds of post about this, it works great. I just had to pull my tranny two seasons again and I have a suggestion which worked great. Do as much work as you can yourself just short of pulling the prop shaft. I didnt have a prop shaft puller but did everything else. Then took it to my dealer had them pull the shaft and the tranny bench test it and put it back in the boat. I hooked up all the linkage myself. Point being I think i paid 200.00 dollars puts gaskets which saved me around a grand. Two months later I had a problem So i took it back for there warranty to cover Which they did . just a long winded thought.

east tx skier
04-26-2012, 07:40 PM
Just for grins, go check your prop to make sure the retention nut is on there good and tight. I had a nylock nut back off once and it would rattle like crazy in reverse and idle, but go away at speed. Prop was loose and, when at speed, would push up on the taper. Now, I know you don't have a tapered/keyed prop, but it's easy enough to check to be sure.

jessejames
05-10-2012, 04:21 PM
Thanks guys. It isn't my Propeller nut. I checked that and it is tight with cotter pin intact. You can hear it coming from the Hurth Tranny. Sounds like rocks like Todd said. I'm going to have my dealer change it out to enginge oil. It needs to be changed anyway. Only reason I'm having them do it is so they can also listen to it to make sure it isn't the damper plate.

Sorry B-Rad, I would and could probably do it myself and normally agree with you, but I just don't have the time to spend on it! Too many other projects going on, working full time and running a small business on the side!

jwp1504
12-03-2012, 04:49 AM
Hi Guys,

I have a 2000 X Star that has the same problem, rock like sound at idle but goes away at speed/revs.

After reading the forum i was wondering if woodrow had any further input??

Or have we come to the conclusion that it is "normal" and does/will not effect performance??

rem_pss308
12-08-2012, 11:42 PM
Mine rattles a little bit. but I had another rattle problem before.
I was sure it was the transmission. but it ended up being my idler pulley. it would rattle in neutral and idle speed. after changing the idler pulley the rattle went away.

You might want to check it. it was a 20.00 fix.

woodrowskis
05-31-2013, 05:58 PM
I never figured out my problem. My boat runs well as far as skiing. I am on a slalom course and pulls great passes and times out correct consistently. But it still makes a nasty noise at times. It makes the noise very bad at times and almost not noticeable at times. It is always at it's worst just in gear (barely above idle speed). Reverse is worse than forward. Forward is equally bad after shifting from neutral into gear as it is coming down from speed to idling in gear. I owned the boat for several years. It did not sound like this in the past. It is not the normal straight cut gear chatter and it makes the noise with the drive shaft dsconnected so it is not propellar nut/key related.

1988prostar190
06-01-2013, 04:57 PM
1 year ago with the same amount of hours i had an identicle situation. 3000$ later and a missled mechanic, we still heard the rocks. We switched our damper but you should not unless springs are loose. DO NOT RIP APART you transmission because it is likely fine. Our main issue was a ignition issue slightly setting off our time and allowing our tranny to gear lash at low rpm. All we needed to fix our problem was an 80$ roatar cap and piont adjustment....Please dont go down a long expensive road i did. Ypur damper plate is probly fine. Transmissions blow up if they have problems or slip, a clunck is likely gear lash.

1988prostar190
06-01-2013, 04:59 PM
This rattle is a norm across most ski and wakeboard boats, due to gear lash. Don't spend much money trying to figure it out like i did.

Lumbergh
06-01-2013, 07:47 PM
Mine sounds clunky at idle, but as you pick up RPM and speed, everything is smooth.

After some google searching it appear this is somewhat normal (at least somewhat common) as posted above.

Works good, lasts a long time. Good enough for me. I spend enough on my money pit to go chasing problems that may or may not exist.

If it breaks I will fix it.

Oil level is good, clean and proper. Changed more frequently that necessary for sure.

jwp1504
06-24-2013, 12:18 AM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=46957

Have a read of this thread, apparently the noise is a common issue but doesn't cause and harm

"Indmar Products
5400 Old Millington Rd. Millington, TN Phone 800-238-7112 Fax 800-622-7278
SERVICE ADVISORY Date: 11/21/01 Advisory #SV2001-2 SUBJECT: Gear Rattle – Hurth Reduction Gear Transmissions
We have received a number of complaints regarding rattling or noisy ZF/Hurth reduction gears (V-drive or in-line). The noise is most pronounced at idle RPM and typically goes away when the engine RPM is raised above idle. Although the noise can be irritating, this is a normal condition with these transmissions that in no way affects the durability or reliability of the unit.
In an effort to reduce the gear rattle noise at low RPM; the transmission manufacturer has suggested that we change from the current Dexron 3 transmission fluid that we use in the transmission to 15W40 motor oil. This is the same oil that we recommend for use in the engine and its higher viscosity helps “dampen” the contact of the gears and reduces the noise significantly.
Indmar has started using 15W40 Pennzoil Marine Motor Oil in all reduction gears starting with engine IC985313. Those units will be identified with a Pennzoil 15W40 Marine Oil sticker on the transmission in place of the ATF sticker that was previously attached.
We suggest that if you have a customer complaint of a noisy or rattling reduction gear that you replace the transmission fluid with 15W40 motor oil at the next scheduled service. Our current recommended maintenance schedule calls for changing the transmission oil at the first service (10-20 hours) and then annually or every 300 hours, whichever comes first.
Since the transmission has no drain plug, it is necessary to suck the fluid out of the transmission through the opening in the bottom of the filter cavity. Use a suitable oil removal pump with a pick- up long enough to get to the bottom of the transmission housing. You might also want to remove the coolant lines and let the cooler and hoses drain into a suitable container to make sure as much of the fluid as possible is removed from the transmission. It is not necessary to flush the transmission, just get as much of the old fluid out as possible.
Reconnect the cooling lines and fill the transmission with 15W40 motor oil. The level of the oil should be between the “max” and “min” marks on the dipstick. The following chart gives you the approximate capacities of the various reduction gears.
Model Capacity
450A 2.12 qt (2L) 630A 4.2 qt (4L) 630V 4.2 qt (4L)
SV2001-2
11/21/01"

coz
06-24-2013, 07:38 AM
fill the transmission with 15W40 motor oil.

The fix is right there, instead of using ATF, go with motor oil. My manual says use 15W20 though.

munkymush
06-25-2013, 04:00 AM
im not so sure its a fix at all. I tried it and it seemed quieter for a while but after getting the box hot and running for a few hours it was no better at all ..

jsturvey
07-29-2013, 07:46 PM
Here is a head scratcher. I heard the "rocks in the transmission" noise while I was on the lake yesterday. Upon investigating my bilge today, I found a piece of a spring that I can only assume (by photos) had to have come from the drive damper. Now the curious question is should I take the boat in to have the damper done, or do I risk further damage continuing to run the boat?

JerryW
07-29-2013, 08:23 PM
The safest thing is to have it fixed. There are posts and pictures on this forum of damper plates breaking apart and coming through the bell housing. The springs are there to absorb shock and if they are breaking up, it could lead to a complete failure of the plate.

d2jp
07-29-2013, 11:25 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=46957

Have a read of this thread, apparently the noise is a common issue but doesn't cause and harm

"Indmar Products
5400 Old Millington Rd. Millington, TN Phone 800-238-7112 Fax 800-622-7278
SERVICE ADVISORY Date: 11/21/01 Advisory #SV2001-2 SUBJECT: Gear Rattle – Hurth Reduction Gear Transmissions
We have received a number of complaints regarding rattling or noisy ZF/Hurth reduction gears (V-drive or in-line). The noise is most pronounced at idle RPM and typically goes away when the engine RPM is raised above idle. Although the noise can be irritating, this is a normal condition with these transmissions that in no way affects the durability or reliability of the unit.
In an effort to reduce the gear rattle noise at low RPM; the transmission manufacturer has suggested that we change from the current Dexron 3 transmission fluid that we use in the transmission to 15W40 motor oil. This is the same oil that we recommend for use in the engine and its higher viscosity helps “dampen” the contact of the gears and reduces the noise significantly.
Indmar has started using 15W40 Pennzoil Marine Motor Oil in all reduction gears starting with engine IC985313. Those units will be identified with a Pennzoil 15W40 Marine Oil sticker on the transmission in place of the ATF sticker that was previously attached.
We suggest that if you have a customer complaint of a noisy or rattling reduction gear that you replace the transmission fluid with 15W40 motor oil at the next scheduled service. Our current recommended maintenance schedule calls for changing the transmission oil at the first service (10-20 hours) and then annually or every 300 hours, whichever comes first.
Since the transmission has no drain plug, it is necessary to suck the fluid out of the transmission through the opening in the bottom of the filter cavity. Use a suitable oil removal pump with a pick- up long enough to get to the bottom of the transmission housing. You might also want to remove the coolant lines and let the cooler and hoses drain into a suitable container to make sure as much of the fluid as possible is removed from the transmission. It is not necessary to flush the transmission, just get as much of the old fluid out as possible.
Reconnect the cooling lines and fill the transmission with 15W40 motor oil. The level of the oil should be between the “max” and “min” marks on the dipstick. The following chart gives you the approximate capacities of the various reduction gears.
Model Capacity
450A 2.12 qt (2L) 630A 4.2 qt (4L) 630V 4.2 qt (4L)
SV2001-2
11/21/01"

Some are Borg-Warner, some are Hurth. Hurth supposedly will quieten with motor oil but I don't believe Borg-Warner has ever made this recommendation.

jsturvey
07-31-2013, 08:55 AM
The safest thing is to have it fixed. There are posts and pictures on this forum of damper plates breaking apart and coming through the bell housing. The springs are there to absorb shock and if they are breaking up, it could lead to a complete failure of the plate.

Yea, saw some pictures of those drive dampners tearing up bell housings in another thread. Went ahead and took it in yesterday. I just hope what they find confirms my suspicions.

hig
08-26-2013, 12:04 PM
Last Saturday (9/17) I took the boat to try it out but I never got it off the trailer, this was the first time I’ve put it in gear since I’ve owed it and it made a loud clunking while idling in forward and reverse gears. This past Saturday I disconnected the drive couplings so I could dry run it in my driveway and I still had the same noise, it seems to quiet down when I gave it gas. I changed the tranny fluid earlier this year with 15W-40 oil and it’s filled up properly. While I had it in the water, a couple of times it stalled just after making a clunk. I’m not sure what to check? When I had the motor out I did not see anything wrong with the pressure plate but then again, I don’t really know what I should have been looking for.

click picture to watch video
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/th_20130824_095347_zps25e0af24.jpg (http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab280/hig69/98%20Mastercraft/20130824_095347_zps25e0af24.mp4)

Some back ground: I bought the boat this spring with spun main bearings so I never heard it run, the boat has 375 hours on it. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Steve

hig
08-27-2013, 12:31 PM
Yea, saw some pictures of those drive dampners tearing up bell housings in another thread. Went ahead and took it in yesterday. I just hope what they find confirms my suspicions.

What did you find out about the noise in your trans?

Thanks, Steve

jsturvey
08-27-2013, 01:36 PM
What did you find out about the noise in your trans?

Thanks, Steve

Well Hig, I took my boat into the shop to have the drive dampner replaced. (The drive dampner looks like a clutch pressure plate). I had found pieces of metal and a broken spring that came from the plate in the bilge on top of the strut mount. None of this really affected the transmission performance at all. Figured out the the noise that I was hearing in this instance was those broken pieces funnelling bell housing before they came out. Now, that having been said, the transmission itself is rather noisy especially at low / idle speeds, but sounds smoother when the boat is on plane.

jsturvey
08-27-2013, 01:54 PM
Last Saturday (9/17) I took the boat to try it out but I never got it off the trailer, this was the first time I’ve put it in gear since I’ve owed it and it made a loud clunking while idling in forward and reverse gears. This past Saturday I disconnected the drive couplings so I could dry run it in my driveway and I still had the same noise, it seems to quiet down when I gave it gas. I changed the tranny fluid earlier this year with 15W-40 oil and it’s filled up properly. While I had it in the water, a couple of times it stalled just after making a clunk. I’m not sure what to check? When I had the motor out I did not see anything wrong with the pressure plate but then again, I don’t really know what I should have been looking for.


Some back ground: I bought the boat this spring with spun main bearings so I never heard it run, the boat has 375 hours on it. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Steve

That doesn't sound good to me at all, Steve. These transmissions are noisy, but definitely not like that. Something has to be out of kilter. I know the history on you boat is a bit unknown, except for the main bearing on the engine, but the drive train had to have taken a hit as well judging by bent strut in you restoration thread. Granted I've only had my MC for 3 years now, and I am still learning things about it. I am not an expert by any means, so I have no idea how much shock it would take to bend a strut. When the engine spun that bearing, did it cease? Could the shock from that affect the transmission? Maybe I'm getting a bit off topic here; just brainstorming. In any case, I'd consider taking the transmission back out and take it in for service.

Joe

hig
08-27-2013, 08:30 PM
That doesn't sound good to me at all, Steve. These transmissions are noisy, but definitely not like that. Something has to be out of kilter. I know the history on you boat is a bit unknown, except for the main bearing on the engine, but the drive train had to have taken a hit as well judging by bent strut in you restoration thread. Granted I've only had my MC for 3 years now, and I am still learning things about it. I am not an expert by any means, so I have no idea how much shock it would take to bend a strut. When the engine spun that bearing, did it cease? Could the shock from that affect the transmission? Maybe I'm getting a bit off topic here; just brainstorming. In any case, I'd consider taking the transmission back out and take it in for service.

Joe

Thanks for the information that mine is a lot louder than yours, last think I want to do is send something thru the case and end up having to replace the trans not just fix it.

I have no idea about the past history except it had to of had a hard 375 hours!!! I don't think the bent strut is related because the boat was driven for a while after it was bent to wear thru the shaft log like it did. The main bearing must have heated up quite a bit, the crank was warped and a couple of main caps were spread out from the heat so I'm assuming it seized up.

I figured with a bad motor the trans MUST be good otherwise they would not have been using but who know.

If anything I would pull the trans and split the case (after doing some research) to see if I can see any damage inside.

Does everyone agree that's what I should do? Or do I have any other options?

Thanks, Steve