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View Full Version : Looking for a mechanic to bounce some ideas off of


durcanchris
07-12-2011, 08:16 AM
I am looking for a mechanic to help me trouble shoot some issues on my 06 x1. It is definitively an electrical issue with the ignition wire or something in that vicinity. It would take me forever to type out all the steps we have done to try to fix it. But a quick sum up, boat shut off while driving. Ballast switches work, dash switches work. Gauges and radio do not work regardless of what position the key is in. I tried the dealerships but their alot more helpful when your willing to hand over a credit card and let them do their thing. If you don't mind helping me trouble shoot please PM or email me your contact info and the best time to call. THANKS!!!!!!
durcanchris@yahoo.com

JimN
07-12-2011, 09:05 AM
I am looking for a mechanic to help me trouble shoot some issues on my 06 x1. It is definitively an electrical issue with the ignition wire or something in that vicinity. It would take me forever to type out all the steps we have done to try to fix it. But a quick sum up, boat shut off while driving. Ballast switches work, dash switches work. Gauges and radio do not work regardless of what position the key is in. I tried the dealerships but their alot more helpful when your willing to hand over a credit card and let them do their thing. If you don't mind helping me trouble shoot please PM or email me your contact info and the best time to call. THANKS!!!!!!
durcanchris@yahoo.com

You're not going to get anyone to commit unless you show at least some of what you tried.

Did you check the three fuses near the ECM?

JohnE
07-12-2011, 09:12 AM
You're not going to get anyone to commit unless you show at least some of what you tried.

Did you check the three fuses near the ECM?

Agreed. And a lot of problems have been resolved via typing.

Justjoe
07-12-2011, 09:34 AM
Tighten the wires going into your starter.

durcanchris
07-12-2011, 12:53 PM
Steps I have already taken are resetting the ignition fuse and all the other fuses under the steering wheel, checked all battery terminals, checked the fuse on the EMC on the engine and all the other basics. We have rewired the main harness behind the dash checked the wiring with a volt meter from the battery to the starter etc. We reconnected everything and the boat actually worked (at least for a while). We took it on the lake and about an hour into our riding the boat just shut off again. We sat their for about 5 min talking about how we were going to get back to the ramp and I tried to start the boat and it started we drove it back to the boat ramp and got it on the trailer, I turned it off and immediately tried to restart it and nothing. We thought it could be something overheating however after we got back to storage I tried to start it and again nothing.

Thrall
07-12-2011, 01:04 PM
Assuming there's not a shorted wire going to, coming from the ignition switch.... Have you traced the wires to/from the ign switch?
It could be a short in the ignition switch itself.
Seems like you checked the right fuses, verified power from the battery to the panel(s) under the dash.
Not to throw parts at it, but ignition switches are cheap, maybe try a new ignition switch?

All the dash functions are powered by the same leads coming from the battery which you've verified to be good, but the only things that work are the functions that aren't controlled by the ign switch (ballast, nav lights, bilge, blower, etc).
Starter and guages cycle through the ign switch.

SOunds like a bad ign switch.

I feel your frustration, hard to diagnose intermittent elect problems especially on a boat when you have to haul it to the lake and spend lake time trying to diagnose/repair and not boating, not to mention not knowing whether you will need a tow in or not!

durcanchris
07-12-2011, 01:13 PM
We have traced the wires to the ignition switch....we are getting the proper voltage. Is there a way to verify a bad ignition switch? When I purchased the boat it was in immaculate condition, only 100 hrs I have only put maybe 15 hrs on it since I bought it so its just hard to believe that stuff is already breaking.

JimN
07-12-2011, 01:14 PM
I am looking for a mechanic to help me trouble shoot some issues on my 06 x1. It is definitively an electrical issue with the ignition wire or something in that vicinity. It would take me forever to type out all the steps we have done to try to fix it. But a quick sum up, boat shut off while driving. Ballast switches work, dash switches work. Gauges and radio do not work regardless of what position the key is in. I tried the dealerships but their alot more helpful when your willing to hand over a credit card and let them do their thing. If you don't mind helping me trouble shoot please PM or email me your contact info and the best time to call. THANKS!!!!!!
durcanchris@yahoo.com

How far are you from an MC dealer? Call and find out if they have the diagnostic computer (if they don't, they shouldn't be a dealer of ANYTHING). That could save untold hours of troubleshooting for you. FWIW, I have never seen a 5 year old boat that needed to have the harness rewired. Ever, If you have a multi-meter, you should be able to find any wiring fault, although the intermittent ones will still be a PITA.

Do you have a manual? If not, get one so you'll know what to look for. You first need to see if you have spark and if not, why. Did you check fuel pressure? Do that.

durcanchris
07-12-2011, 01:20 PM
How would having a spark and or the fuel pressure affect the gauges and radio not working when the key turned in either position? Also, if it was a fuel pump issue would the boat still turn over just not start? I have a manual and I have already done all the basic diagnostics. I am going to call and see if my dealer has a diagnostic computer and see if that might help.

JimN
07-12-2011, 03:00 PM
How would having a spark and or the fuel pressure affect the gauges and radio not working when the key turned in either position? Also, if it was a fuel pump issue would the boat still turn over just not start? I have a manual and I have already done all the basic diagnostics. I am going to call and see if my dealer has a diagnostic computer and see if that might help.

The boat shut off. How does spark NOT have anything to do with it? All the fuel pump does is pump fuel- it has nothing to do with whether it cranks, or not. You need three things for a motor to run- compression, spark and proper fuel/air mixture. If you find that you have spark and compression but no fuel pressure, you'll need to find out why but don't just haul off and replace the pump-the ECM triggers a relay when it sees RPM information. If there's no RPM information, it won't turn the pump on. Does your manual have any info regarding the Ignition Control module and the wires going to it? The purple/white carries RPM info to the ECM- use T-pins to back-probe it. Don't pierce the insulation because that will let moisture in and will cause failure later. Electrical tape won't do much for that, other than delay it.

Getting back to an earlier question, you can use your multi-meter to check the ignition switch. Orange and/or red is battery, yellow/red is crank, purple is ignition, blue is lighting, black is ground. Thin red is often the accessory feed.

The gauges are controlled by the black box above the driver's feet and re-wiring the dash won't do anything about that. As I posted earlier, I have never seen a dash that needed re-wiring, although it would be SOP if the boat had been submerged (which isn't your case). You posted that it ran, shut off and ran again- have you wiggled wires and harnesses while it was running? That's where I would start.

FlyingFreeman
07-13-2011, 06:40 PM
Kill switch will stop the engine and prevent the gauges from cycling.

durcanchris
07-13-2011, 07:19 PM
Are you talking about the red lanyard? I checked it

FlyingFreeman
07-13-2011, 09:38 PM
Or you could buy the DIACOM system. That's what I did.

http://www.rinda.com/marine/marine.htm


I took my boat to the most reputable dealership nearby (@ 5 hours drive North of Charleston). After nearly a month, they weren't any closer to finding the problem with my boat, so I quickly rescued my boat. They were nice (only charged me $100 for replacing my new spark plugs with new spark plugs). Within 10 minutes, I had determined that there must be a problem with my fuel (pressure was good, so I took a fuel sample which was almost pure water).

Diacom helped me resolve another problem which was caused by the dealership (dealer found a sensor plug which had never been plugged in, so he plugged it in). Turns out, that plug was not supposed to be plugged in and began generating a fault code. Glad I was standing there when he plugged this in else I probably would not have known to undo this...

The diacom system was necessary for me-- because the dealer was unable to accurately diagnose my simple problem.

A good mechanic is worth his weight in gold...

FlyingFreeman
07-13-2011, 09:59 PM
Are you talking about the red lanyard? I checked it

Yes. If it is disconnected (or the switch fails to remain closed), the ignition system will be shut off and so will the gauges. If you can get the problem to re-occur, try bypassing the safety switch for troubleshooting. I've been told they can be troublesome. It's only two wires (switch should be closed with the lanyard connected). Turn the ignition on, remove and replace the lanyard several times to see if the gauges cycle each time reliably. If they don't, that switch is your likely problem.

If you don't have a Fluke, you should seriously consider it. Also, get a piercing probe for your multimeter. The piercing probe makes it easy to test wiring without finding the terminals/etc. and the fluke has a recording function (for min max avg) which would be useful with an intermittent problem. You can connect your fluke and operate the boat while watching/recording the voltages. You'll have to test key wiring until you find a problem. I don't think there are but a few connections (like 4 including the ground) needed to make the engine run (from the dash harness). If you can eliminate them, then you likely have a problem with an engine sensor, engine harness, or the ECM.

A schematic for your boat would be nice. This would take the mystery out your wiring.


I found my FLuke 88 on Ebay @ 20 years ago (best investment ever, and I'd pay full price for another if this one dies) and the Diacom also (02 TT). You may have to buy one from Rhinda since your boat is newer. It's what the dealers use, and it's nice.

durcanchris
07-13-2011, 10:10 PM
Well sounds like I got some work to do..... I will try these suggestions over the next couple days and let you know how it goes. Thanks to everyone so far for all the help.