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View Full Version : DIY ski pylon


gr82bgreen
07-11-2011, 02:15 PM
My 95 Maristar 200 VRS that I bought last summer did not have a ski pylon or tower. If it would have had one, it would have been in the middle of the floor taking up walking space and making it hard for rear passengers to dodge the rope. So I decided to build one where the newer v drive have it by the swim platform just behind the rear seat. I had to cut a notch out of the deck and patch in some vinyl. I built it from scrap angle iron, square tube and galvanized tubing. I welded a trailer hitch all to the top of the post. I drilled and tapped the floor by the engine mounts. primed and painted it white. Tried it out yesterday and it worked flawlessly. Cost of $4.00 trailer ball and $8.00 primer aqnd spray paint.

rholmes
07-11-2011, 11:24 PM
The factory pylon wasn't on the boat when you bought it?

gr82bgreen
07-12-2011, 07:45 AM
The factory pylon wasn't on the boat when you bought it?

Does not look like it ever had one. Its rare but I have heard others with this model did not have one either.

#47of100TeamMC
07-12-2011, 10:38 AM
Should have made it removable... and adjustable... just sayin'.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-12-2011, 10:44 AM
1 7/8" or 2"?:D

WFO MasterCraft
07-12-2011, 11:15 AM
It looks good but I think that your design relies too much on the rear engine cover to resist the backward pull from the skier. I also think that your actual pylon (top round tube) needs to come down much further than the square tube. You are creating a really high stress concentration on that forward welded edge at the base of the round tube. If you pull a heavy skier, wakeboarder, or a heavy inflatable your pylon will fail at the square tube and damage your boat. I am not downing your pylon I am just sharing my engineering/failure analysis knowledge to save you some heartache out on the water. If you have some questions about how to make the design more suitable for ripping up the water PM me and I'll be more than happy to help you out.

O2BESOHUGE
07-12-2011, 04:17 PM
Thats What I Was Thinking Too...it Will Last For A While, But Eventually That First Weld Is Going To Let Go

gr82bgreen
07-13-2011, 10:17 AM
Thats What I Was Thinking Too...it Will Last For A While, But Eventually That First Weld Is Going To Let Go

Seems solid now but maybe I will pull it out and weld a brace from the pylon to the center cross brace. Thanks for the input.

O2BESOHUGE
07-13-2011, 12:12 PM
Great Job Though! Looks Good!

TxsRiverRat
07-13-2011, 12:16 PM
Wow - not bad...


For some reason, when I saw DIY and ski pylon in the same sentence, I was expecting to see a wooden pylon on grandpas glitter paint skeeter... Haha

rholmes
07-13-2011, 08:03 PM
Isn't there a hole for the OEM one between the driver seat and the passenger seat? Have you tried pulling up the floor panel there to see if the original mountng bracket is there?

oldairboater
07-13-2011, 10:27 PM
Looks good but I see it not holding up and eventually possibly failing. Lots of strain on your first weld.

O2BESOHUGE
07-14-2011, 10:14 AM
lowering the height of the ball will help too. LESS LEVERAGE ON THE WELD

ggroller
07-14-2011, 10:15 AM
Looks good but I see it not holding up and eventually possibly failing. Lots of strain on your first weld.

That's what I was thinking. Pieces of metal breaking with the possibility of breaking your motor.

gr82bgreen
07-15-2011, 12:11 AM
THanks for all the input. I have revised the pylon. notice how it is welded through the top brace and now welded also at the lower cross brace, Should make it much stronger.

psychobilly
07-15-2011, 05:23 AM
Hats off to ya redneck! It may not be the "best way" to do it but it's cheap and it werks. lol:D

CantRepeat
07-15-2011, 07:42 AM
There is rubber in the engine mounts and now you have fastened something solid to it and the floor. You are going tear something up pretty fast the way you have it. You've also blown the integrity of the tubbing when you smashed it flat and then bent it. I would also bet the surface bugger welds will break at some point.

I'm not trying to be rude but, what you have is very unsafe.

ahhudgins
07-15-2011, 08:50 AM
My Maristar 200VRS did not have the plyon either. There is a bracket under the floor panel for a pylon but I wanted to use my back seat when there was a skier behind the boat. I copied the design that MC uses for their V-drives but I beefed mine up a bit. I spent a few $$$ having a guy weld all the aluminum up to my specs but it was worth it to me. Not so much as a wiggle in 5 years and I've pulled 3 tubes at time.

Scroll down the page for my install.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=33383&highlight=installed+pylon+maristar

CantRepeat
07-15-2011, 10:08 AM
My Maristar 200VRS did not have the plyon either. There is a bracket under the floor panel for a pylon but I wanted to use my back seat when there was a skier behind the boat. I copied the design that MC uses for their V-drives but I beefed mine up a bit. I spent a few $$$ having a guy weld all the aluminum up to my specs but it was worth it to me. I removed the bolts holding the motor mounts to the stringers and then placed my pylon mounts over the mounts and installed longer bolts. Not so much as a wiggle in 5 years and I've pulled 3 tubes at time.

Scroll down the page for my install.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=33383&highlight=installed+pylon+maristar

I just took a look at your install. That's the way to do something like this! :cool:

ahhudgins
07-15-2011, 12:32 PM
I just took a look at your install. That's the way to do something like this! :cool:

Thanks.
It may have been a little over kill but I was happy with the finished product. I have 2 braces that are bolted to the top and SIDE of the stringers and then the whole pylon assembly is bolted to the floor braces. The assembly can be unbolted and taken out in a few minutes if needed. I do repair work for CNC machine shops so I called in some favors to get my cutting/waterjetting/welding for a good price! :D

gr82bgreen's setup is a little smaller than what I saw at the MC dealership when I was designing mine. The biggest difference I see is that mine and the MC brackets are bolted to the side of the stringers and not just the top. I would be a little concerned that with the pylon height the bolts could be pulled out of the stringers. I'm not an engineer so I just went with the theory "Bigger is better".

wakescene
07-15-2011, 12:46 PM
gr82bgreen,
I would suggest lowering the pylon height to just a few inches above the cushions. This will reduce the overall torque on the frame many-fold! Thus reducing the chances of frame or stringer failure.

It's a great first-design IMHO. I think you should take this, and build a 2nd with some of the suggestions that have been made here and you will probably have a rock-solid multi-functional pylon that will serve you for years.

And don't feel bad about your efforts, I built a pylon in a old searay out of 3"x6ft galvanized tube pipe that look horrendeous, but was so solid it pulled up a 260lbs guy on a wakeboard and didn't so much as flex! http://www.wakeboardnj.com/projects/homebuiltpole.htm

ahhudgins
07-15-2011, 12:52 PM
Isn't there a hole for the OEM one between the driver seat and the passenger seat? Have you tried pulling up the floor panel there to see if the original mountng bracket is there?

I hestitated when I purchased my 200VRS (used) because there was no pylon it in. The "expert" at the dealership told me there was no way to mount a pylon but there is a pylon mount under a panel in the floor. I like to use my back seat so I went with the rear modification like the OP. Never could understand why MC would ship out a boat without a pylon.

BROUSSARD
07-15-2011, 01:38 PM
I just took a look at your install. That's the way to do something like this! :cool:

Now that is the real deal!

gr82bgreen
07-15-2011, 02:05 PM
gr82bgreen,
I would suggest lowering the pylon height to just a few inches above the cushions. This will reduce the overall torque on the frame many-fold! Thus reducing the chances of frame or stringer failure.

It's a great first-design IMHO. I think you should take this, and build a 2nd with some of the suggestions that have been made here and you will probably have a rock-solid multi-functional pylon that will serve you for years.

And don't feel bad about your efforts, I built a pylon in a old searay out of 3"x6ft galvanized tube pipe that look horrendeous, but was so solid it pulled up a 260lbs guy on a wakeboard and didn't so much as flex! http://www.wakeboardnj.com/projects/homebuiltpole.htm

THanks. I think this will be a temp thing and will fab something more substantial such as ahhugins designed. I will keep a close watch on this to make sure it is safe.

ahhudgins
07-15-2011, 11:39 PM
I'm going to get some pictures of mine this weekend. Maybe others with mid 90s V-drives could get some pictures of the factory install?

I think the key is to have the bolts tapped into the sides of the stringers rather than just the top. Pictures are worth more than me trying to explain it.