PDA

View Full Version : Best oil for LT-1?


Locascio
06-30-2011, 11:43 PM
Ok my new LT-1 has about 6 hours of break in time on it and I have been told the first oil change needs to happen....I am thinking mobil1 synthetic? What do you guys use? Thanks!

The8Ball
07-01-2011, 12:42 AM
I use Mobil 1. Other people, Valvoline.

dietdewboy
07-01-2011, 06:58 AM
Mobil 1 10-40 ever since the first 10 hr service back in 1996! 15 years of hard 36 mph skiing and it still runs perfect.

tommcat
07-01-2011, 07:22 AM
valvoline VR1 20w50

d2jp
07-01-2011, 08:20 AM
Mobil 1 10-40 ever since the first 10 hr service back in 1996! 15 years of hard 36 mph skiing and it still runs perfect.

I'm a fan of Mobile 1...how many hours on the engine now?

Jim@BAWS
07-01-2011, 09:07 AM
Ok my new LT-1 has about 6 hours of break in time on it and I have been told the first oil change needs to happen....I am thinking mobil1 synthetic? What do you guys use? Thanks!

do not use a synthetic till after a break in period...may 25-50 hours

Jim

aaron.
07-01-2011, 09:12 AM
i've been using mobile one synthetic 15-50...[i have the LQ9 though]...it's a pricey oil jobber, but money well spent imho

94PS190
07-01-2011, 09:40 AM
I use mobil 1 in my LT-1, Many say it's a waste of $, but one oil change a year....I can afford it.

wrobins1
07-01-2011, 10:44 AM
Honda GN4 is a INCREDIBLE conventional oil. I use it in everything but the car & truck the only reason I do not use it in there is because it is a little pricey.

1redTA
07-01-2011, 11:11 AM
do not use a synthetic till after a break in period...may 25-50 hours

Jim

with the all roller assembly I would start the engine, make sure everything is getting oil at the rockers and pressure gauge, set lash if needed ( Comp ProMag 1.6 :-) shut it down drain the Dino oil and refill using synthetic rotella 10-40 or the Valvoline VR and flat foot the engine. Only used WIX filters too

bigmac
07-01-2011, 11:24 AM
i've been using mobile one synthetic 15-50...[i have the LQ9 though]...it's a pricey oil jobber, but money well spent imho

Why? What advantage to Mobil 1 have you observed in the way your boat runs?

bigmac
07-01-2011, 11:26 AM
Honda GN4 is a INCREDIBLE conventional oil. I use it in everything but the car & truck the only reason I do not use it in there is because it is a little pricey.

Why? In what way is Honda GN4 and INCREDIBLE conventional oil? Have you seen an advantage, or are you judging its INCREDIBILITY based on Honda's advertisements?

east tx skier
07-01-2011, 11:50 AM
If I had an engine with a roller cam, I would just pick up the dino oil from rotella at the weight recommended my the manufacturer. At 50 hours or less change intervals, what benefits are you getting from running synthetic?

wrobins1
07-01-2011, 01:04 PM
Why? In what way is Honda GN4 and INCREDIBLE conventional oil? Have you seen an advantage, or are you judging its INCREDIBILITY based on Honda's advertisements?

The oil holds up REALLY well. Even as case oil in an ABUSED 03 KDX (2 stoke dirt bike.) I have ran it in my vehicle before and ran it significantly longer than encouraged as a "redneck" torture test of oil (one of the perks of a company car) and you would have been amazed at how well the oil held up. I have ran it in my boat which only has the 5.7 TBI Vortec but it does well and looks new when it is changed. I would challenge you to try the oil in something that requests a conventional oil and see if you do not notice a difference when it changed.

bigmac
07-01-2011, 01:21 PM
You can review its performance at bobistheoilguy.com. Blackstone analysis pretty consistently rates it at middle of the pack at best, a little worse than the Rotella 15W40 and Delvac. Considering its cost, it's basically just another overpriced OEM oil. The way that it looks coming out is pretty much irrelevant. Likely its "new" appearance is an indication of inferior detergent capability.

CantRepeat
07-01-2011, 01:37 PM
The oil holds up REALLY well. Even as case oil in an ABUSED 03 KDX (2 stoke dirt bike.) I have ran it in my vehicle before and ran it significantly longer than encouraged as a "redneck" torture test of oil (one of the perks of a company car) and you would have been amazed at how well the oil held up. I have ran it in my boat which only has the 5.7 TBI Vortec but it does well and looks new when it is changed. I would challenge you to try the oil in something that requests a conventional oil and see if you do not notice a difference when it changed.

That is a completely unscientific appraisal of the condition of the oil. Not to be rude but it means nothing.

wrobins1
07-01-2011, 02:25 PM
That is a completely unscientific appraisal of the condition of the oil. Not to be rude but it means nothing.

What scientific study would you suggest? I have had good luck with the oil. I have not noticed any other difficulties or problems with the oil. Even in elementary science you used all your senses to assess the results. I have heard of smelling the oil (Rich jetting) and even tasting the oil to diagnose serve engine problems. So how does color not indicate some degree use or resilience of the oil? I was not familiar with the bobisoilguy.com site and excited to have access to this type of lab data for oils look forward to seeing their results so I can compare them to my experiences past, present, & future.

bigmac
07-01-2011, 02:42 PM
What scientific study would you suggest? I have had good luck with the oil. I have not noticed any other difficulties or problems with the oil.

By "had good luck with the oil", do you mean you haven't yet suffered a catastrophic oil-related engine failure? Who has?

And since you have "not noticed any other difficulties", that makes GN4 an "incredible" oil?

The lubricant oil biz is very interesting. Most people become wedded to a particular oil and lubrication "facts" because that's what their pappy told 'em, or their motorcycle service tech, or because of a cool TV ad, or because Bubba in car 54 on the NASCAR circuit says it's great (of course, he gets big bucks to say that). Objective performance criteria just doesn't figure in. The reality is, there just isn't an iota's worth of difference between any motor oil that meets a given API service classification.

wrobins1
07-01-2011, 03:04 PM
bigmac do you pee in a cup every morning to and take it to a lab to have it tested for dehydration or do you drink a glass of water and go on with your day?

Most all of the things have listed have impacted my decision on what oil to run (expect I am not a NASCAR fan.) I think it would also stand to reason that this thread was started together opinions of what “pappy told 'em, or their motorcycle service tech, or because of a cool TV ad, or because Bubba in car 54 on the NASCAR circuit” Continuing with your comment “The reality is, there just isn't an iota's worth of difference between any motor oil that meets a given API service classification.” one could deduce your boat probably has Supertech from Wal-Mart in it and that is your call.

CantRepeat
07-01-2011, 03:16 PM
bigmac do you pee in a cup every morning to and take it to a lab to have it tested for dehydration or do you drink a glass of water and go on with your day?

Most all of the things have listed have impacted my decision on what oil to run (expect I am not a NASCAR fan.) I think it would also stand to reason that this thread was started together opinions of what “pappy told 'em, or their motorcycle service tech, or because of a cool TV ad, or because Bubba in car 54 on the NASCAR circuit” Continuing with your comment “The reality is, there just isn't an iota's worth of difference between any motor oil that meets a given API service classification.” one could deduce your boat probably has Supertech from Wal-Mart in it and that is your call.

I piss in a cup most morning. :cool:

Not sure why you are being so defensive.

east tx skier
07-01-2011, 04:06 PM
bigmac do you pee in a cup every morning to and take it to a lab to have it tested for dehydration or do you drink a glass of water and go on with your day?


I don't know Bigmac personally, but having read a lot of his posts on here over the years, I'd say smart money goes on his peeing in a cup every morning and taking it to a lab to have it tested for dehydration.

bigmac
07-01-2011, 04:59 PM
bigmac do you pee in a cup every morning to and take it to a lab to have it tested for dehydration or do you drink a glass of water and go on with your day?

Most all of the things have listed have impacted my decision on what oil to run (expect I am not a NASCAR fan.) I think it would also stand to reason that this thread was started together opinions of what “pappy told 'em, or their motorcycle service tech, or because of a cool TV ad, or because Bubba in car 54 on the NASCAR circuit” Continuing with your comment “The reality is, there just isn't an iota's worth of difference between any motor oil that meets a given API service classification.” one could deduce your boat probably has Supertech from Wal-Mart in it and that is your call.

Hey dude, I'm only asking you to rationalize your assertion that Honda GN4 is "INCREDIBLE" oil, and I was hoping for some factual information rather than you just telling us how using it makes you feel.

CantRepeat
07-01-2011, 05:34 PM
I don't know Bigmac personally, but having read a lot of his posts on here over the years, I'd say smart money goes on his peeing in a cup every morning and taking it to a lab to have it tested for dehydration.

Eastie!!! :love::love::friday:

Chief
07-01-2011, 06:01 PM
Ok my new LT-1 has about 6 hours of break in time on it and I have been told the first oil change needs to happen....I am thinking mobil1 synthetic? What do you guys use? Thanks!

Rotella-T Dino oil, period. LT-1 rebuild? Synthetic in a boat or regular oil still needs to be changed every 50 Hours. Save the money for beer. Synthetic for high rev's not 22-36 for wakeboarding and skiing.

JLeuck64
07-01-2011, 06:08 PM
I have had good luck not using a condom! You should try it too ;)

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-01-2011, 06:09 PM
Ahh the age old oil debate is heating up again, its my opinion that oil is oil, its not the brand that is important. Whats important is using a oil that will cover what the manufacturer has recommended, ie viscosity level and api level, and just changing your oil on time every time. some people use whats considered premium oil because they change their oil once or twice a year and using expensive oil gives them a warm fuzzy feeling and they feel its protecting their engine better than ordinary oil, use what you want just change it on time every time...

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-01-2011, 08:18 PM
The Indmar manual from 1994 to 2002 recommends Pennzoil Marine 15W-40 Marine Oil API Service SJ/CG4

Indmar operators manual page A-1 http://www.indmar.com/About/ContactIndmar/Manual1994_2002web.pdf

West Marine http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_437552_-1?cid=chanintel_google&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=437552

east tx skier
07-01-2011, 08:27 PM
For what it's worth, any one with flat tappet cams pay attention to the current ZDDP levels in the oil. From what I can recall, that is those of us with Fords or nonvortec Chevys. I think the LT-1 is a roller cam, but ICBW. Neither Pennzoil nor Rotella in their current formulations have enough ZDDP for our flat tappet cams.

Off the top of my head, Valvoline ZR-1, Royal Purple, Chevron Delo 400, and some formulations of Mobil 1 will work.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-01-2011, 08:28 PM
If you want High zinc/phosphorus protection (ZDDP) for your cam and lifters then use valvoline VR-1, but they don't make it in 15w40, vr-1 is only available in 10w30 and 20w50 and 30,40,50,60,. Their diesel oil 15w40 has you covered as well. http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/afpud.pdf just change you oil...

1redTA
07-01-2011, 08:51 PM
using expensive oil gives them a warm fuzzy feeling and they feel its protecting their engine better than ordinary oil...

That's why I did it in my LT-1 engine, and I had a lifter come apart after a 6999rpm run.

Nothing in the rotating assembly was injured but the spider in the valley had a bent arm and let one of the lifters bounce off the cam, the beehive springs the cam grinder spec'd weren't enough to handle the events. Patriot Gold springs with Ti retainers FTW

bigmac
07-01-2011, 09:01 PM
The Indmar manual from 1994 to 2002 recommends Pennzoil Marine 15W-40 Marine Oil API Service SJ/CG4

Indmar operators manual page A-1 http://www.indmar.com/About/ContactIndmar/Manual1994_2002web.pdf



Bearing in mind that their recommendation of Pennzoil is nothing more than a marketing agreement. Any oil that exceeds those APR service classifications will be fine. Currently, that is CJ-4/SN.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-01-2011, 09:03 PM
^ I understand that, thats why in post #26 I said brand is not the issue; its the grade and api thats important...

bigmac
07-01-2011, 10:10 PM
^ I understand that, thats why in post #26 I said brand is not the issue; its the grade and api thats important...

It was clear to me that you understood all of that, I thought I'd reiterate, though, as it's a question that keeps coming up....people driving themselves crazy trying to find Pennzoil.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
07-01-2011, 10:15 PM
I concur... But pennzoil is out there available abeit you have to search if they really want it...

Locascio
07-01-2011, 11:26 PM
Rotella-T Dino oil, period. LT-1 rebuild? Synthetic in a boat or regular oil still needs to be changed every 50 Hours. Save the money for beer. Synthetic for high rev's not 22-36 for wakeboarding and skiing.

Thanks all, great debate and from the differing opinions seems like I will be safe with mobil1 or rotella....the engine only has about 6 hours on it and it was a Jasper crate engine for those enquiring...

east tx skier
07-02-2011, 12:57 AM
If you want High zinc/phosphorus protection (ZDDP) for your cam and lifters then use valvoline VR-1, but they don't make it in 15w40, vr-1 is only available in 10w30 and 20w50 and 30,40,50,60,. Their diesel oil 15w40 has you covered as well. http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/afpud.pdf just change you oil...

I run the 20W50, but have considered going straight 40.