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View Full Version : '03 X10 issue (please help!!!)


x10vancouver2003
06-23-2011, 04:32 PM
Hello all,

My Dad was out in our 2003 X10 about a week ago, and the boat stopped working. It had to be towed into the dock, and has been at our mechanics place since then. Our mechanic has been working on boats all his life, but doesn't work with very many Mastercrafts. To sum it all up, he doesn't know what is wrong.

He originally thought the fuel pump needed replacing, went ahead and bought a new fuel pump, and installed it to no avail.

He contacted our local Mastercraft dealership locally near Vancouver, BC, but they can't even diagnose the issue until July 11th at the earliest. Terrible news obviously...

Here is what our boat mechanic just told me over the phone (main issues):

- 0 fuel pressure
- The boat is not getting fuel...and the new fuel pump installed didn't help
- The dash is "flat" and not registering on any of the gauges
- He thinks it may be an electrical issue, but isn't sure

Any thoughts/suggestions? I am going to forward on any responses to our mechanic, in the hopes that he can diagnose the issue a lot earlier than July 11th...thanks for your time! :)

Thrall
06-23-2011, 04:45 PM
Elect fuse/breaker on the + wire going to the ignitionkey/dash functions?
Does the fuel pump come on when turning the key on to pressure up or not? If not he should have never replaced the pump if it's not getting power. If it is getting power and triggering the pump with 0 pressure build, then new pump is bad.
Guages on my 06 are stepper motor and will cycle once key on and then go dead until the engine starts. My 96 had old elect potentiometer ?? guages. Again nothing except maybe the volt guage and gas guage is going to register until the engine is running.
Need more info to help diagnose.

bobx1
06-23-2011, 05:51 PM
If you dont think you have the time or inclination to find and fix the problem, you might want to contact some local inboard dealers and see if they have any time to take a look. Any Mailbu/Tige/Moomba/SAN dealers in your area? Maybe some of them can help sooner than the MC dealer (or recommend an independent mechanic).

Just a thougt and good luck!

73blue
06-23-2011, 06:31 PM
Def should hear the pump kick on and as Thrall said see the gauges cycle immediately after turning key. If not, there's an electrical issue. Does the starter engage, click, anything when you try to start it? Is the kill switch bad? IIRC it cuts power to the fuel pump. (Just because lanyard is attached, doesn't mean its working) A simple test light should help isolate the problem.

Brian B
06-23-2011, 08:17 PM
There is a circuit breaker on the port side of the engine. A red button. Reset it.

ttu
06-23-2011, 08:33 PM
There is a circuit breaker on the port side of the engine. A red button. Reset it.

wow, didn't think about that! i had the same thing happen to me and that's what it was. never did figure out what caused it to kick off.

Brian B
06-24-2011, 06:04 PM
????????????????

samasm
06-25-2011, 05:50 AM
I had this issue with my '03 x-30. It was the safety lanyard kill switch. I pulled the wires and jumped them together...everything worked. Hopefully it is that simple for you

scharette
06-25-2011, 10:07 AM
I had the lanyard kill switch problem last week.
I was on the water wakeboarding and when i finished my set, my girlfriend stopped the engine. when i got back in the boat, it would not start. it was cranking but not starting. After 5 minutes of checking things, i removed the lanyard and re-installed it again. then it started as normal. 10 minutes later, same problem. i had to shim the lanyard kill switch with this :
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3249/5869653774_36f41a5ca8.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/36840147@N06/5869653774/) istockphoto_118765-soda-can-tab (http://www.flickr.com/photos/36840147@N06/5869653774/) by scharette2009 (http://www.flickr.com/people/36840147@N06/), on Flickr

nickespi
06-25-2011, 10:43 AM
I had the lanyard kill switch problem last week.
I was on the water wakeboarding and when i finished my set, my girlfriend stopped the engine. when i got back in the boat, it would not start. it was cranking but not starting. After 5 minutes of checking things, i removed the lanyard and re-installed it again. then it started as normal. 10 minutes later, same problem. i had to shim the lanyard kill switch with this :
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3249/5869653774_36f41a5ca8.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/36840147@N06/5869653774/) istockphoto_118765-soda-can-tab (http://www.flickr.com/photos/36840147@N06/5869653774/) by scharette2009 (http://www.flickr.com/people/36840147@N06/), on Flickr

Ha! Canadian engineering at it's finest!:D

scharette
06-25-2011, 02:16 PM
Ha! Canadian engineering at it's finest!:D

That was my second choice. My first was having my girlfriend holding the switch while i do another set :D:D:D

kevkan
06-25-2011, 03:06 PM
I had the lanyard kill switch problem last week.
I was on the water wakeboarding and when i finished my set, my girlfriend stopped the engine. when i got back in the boat, it would not start. it was cranking but not starting. After 5 minutes of checking things, i removed the lanyard and re-installed it again. then it started as normal. 10 minutes later, same problem. i had to shim the lanyard kill switch with this :
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3249/5869653774_36f41a5ca8.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/36840147@N06/5869653774/) istockphoto_118765-soda-can-tab (http://www.flickr.com/photos/36840147@N06/5869653774/) by scharette2009 (http://www.flickr.com/people/36840147@N06/), on Flickr

"To beer. The cause of, and solution to, all of lifes problems."
Homer Simpson

x10vancouver2003
06-28-2011, 09:24 PM
Thanks for all the replies so far everyone...appreciate it. Since I'm being passed on this info from my Dad (who's talking to our mechanic), I may not have all the answers as or now. But here is an update from our mechanic:

- narrowed down to an Electrical issue. The boat engine cranks, but it won't fire up obviously.
- there is no fuel getting to the pump, even when the new one was installed.
- he tried the port reset button (kill switch) in the engine to no avail.
- he's wondering if there is a wiring diagram available for 2003 MC boats. It would help him with a diagnosis.

My Dad has contacted independent boat mechanics as well, since any nearby MC dealerships are booked solid for the next 2 weeks. They all seem to think that a specific MC software is needed to diagnose any electrical issues, etc. So we're kinda stuck in the current situation for 2 weeks unless our boat mechanic can get to the bottom of this.

Hope this info helps...any new suggestions?

73blue
06-28-2011, 09:32 PM
I assume you mean no power to the pump? The kill switch and reset button are 2 different things. By kill switch we are talking about the button by the throttle that the lanyard attaches to. Sometimes the switch goes bad and even if the button is depressed, the connection will not be made, thus resulting in no power to the fuel pump. Its easily checked with a test light by checking the wires on both sides of the switch for power with the key on.

197 TT
06-28-2011, 10:22 PM
Check out this thread, has the wiring diagram embedded along with some other suggestions...

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=35507

x10vancouver2003
07-25-2011, 08:32 PM
Hey everyone...I've got to get this thread going again. Since I first started this thread, our '03 X10 has been with our personal boat mechanic for two weeks, and has been at the MasterCraft dealership in Abbotsford, BC, Canada since then. The boat has been with the dealer for roughly three weeks, and we still don't have a solution. Zero progress has been made since this thread was made...

We are trying to focus on the reasons why there is zero fuel pressure in the fuel pump. It had been replaced by our personal mechanic, and that didn't solve the problem. I don't want to repeat the information I have posted above...but we are essentially in the same position as we were in June.

Does anyone have any fresh ideas on what we can try? If the MasterCraft dealership can't get to the bottom of this issue, what the heck do I do then? It's very frustrating putting out big $$$ in labor dollars to have the boat still sitting on the trailer in a dealership, in the middle of summer. I have skied/boarded behind our boat once this summer. Very sad...\

Thanks for your time!

x10vancouver2003
07-25-2011, 08:33 PM
***Haven't

Thrall
07-25-2011, 09:01 PM
Did the mech/dealer make SURE it's not a bad kill switch?
Fuel pump/wiring is kind of a standalone system other than it receives an on/off signal from the ECM.
ECM sends a signal voltage to the fp (fuel pump) relay to trigger the 2 sec prime when the key is turned on before starting and sends a signal to turn on constantly when engine is running.
Relay latches completing the 12V circuit to run the pump.
By zero pressure out of the pump, do you mean that the pump makes noise, just no fuel or no pump niose?
If the pump is receiving 12V + and the - checks continuous to ground during the 2 sec key on prime but not making noise or making noise but not pressurizing the fuel system, the pump is bad. Could be a bad one out of the box.
If no 12V+ or no continuity -, then either a break in the + or - wires, or no 12v+ check relay to see if it's fried (cheap part from the auto parts store), you can hear it "latch" or click when it gets the signal voltage. If no latch then either relay is bad or no signal voltage form ECM. Not likely ECM but I did have a bad fp driver in my '96 ECM.
Bottom line working back from the fp.
1. bad pump
2. bad wiring from realy to fp
3. bad relay
4. bad ecm ground
5. bad ecm(not likely)

I posted Indmar elect troubleshooting docs on a recent General Disc thread about LT-1 fuel pumps. Print that out to help understand. The way the ECM/relay/pump hook up is the same on your 03, just a different style of pump.
Good luck, and your dealer isn't too good if they can't figure this out and have been actively working on it. (Unless it's something completely different than what you described or not part of the fuel system)

bcboy
07-25-2011, 10:59 PM
This probably has no relation to your problem but where was the boat purchased from?
Is it a Canadian boat or did you bring it up from the USA?
Hope you find the problem soon...this Summer has been short enough.

x10vancouver2003
08-04-2011, 03:54 PM
Thanks everyone for the responses up to this point.

So I dragged the boat out of the MasterCraft dealership (after sitting there for 3 weeks), and took it to our family

x10vancouver2003
08-04-2011, 03:58 PM
AUTO mechanic. He called me within 30 minutes, and the boat was fixed. He had to replace an "ignition coil" in the engine, and the boat fired up right away. A $200 total fix, that was eventually fixed within 30 minutes...took over 2 months? That is just brutal...

The boat is still there now, I am going to drag it out tomorrow and get some lake time in. There are still 2 minor issues...not sure if anyone can chime in or not on the easiest fix for these:

- the trailer lights work when you tap the break, and use the blinkers, but do not light up at night. Is this a trailer wiring issue?

- the gauges on the dashboard still don't register. We thought this was originally related to the fuel pump, and the electrical issue...but the boat fires up now. So this must be a separate minor issue?

Thanks again for everything up to this point... :-)

djkslc
08-04-2011, 04:07 PM
The guages are powered by your second/house battery. Make sure all the connections are on properly. Check the ground.

MasterKraftS&S
08-04-2011, 10:22 PM
AUTO mechanic. He called me within 30 minutes, and the boat was fixed. He had to replace an "ignition coil" in the engine, and the boat fired up right away. A $200 total fix, that was eventually fixed within 30 minutes...took over 2 months? That is just brutal...

The boat is still there now, I am going to drag it out tomorrow and get some lake time in. There are still 2 minor issues...not sure if anyone can chime in or not on the easiest fix for these:

- the trailer lights work when you tap the break, and use the blinkers, but do not light up at night. Is this a trailer wiring issue?

- the gauges on the dashboard still don't register. We thought this was originally related to the fuel pump, and the electrical issue...but the boat fires up now. So this must be a separate minor issue?

Thanks again for everything up to this point... :-)

Phew - if you hadn't posted thie update, I would have suggested checking to see if Dad bothered to put ANY fuel in the BOAT:uglyhamme - I know REAL helpful :noface:

x10vancouver2003
08-04-2011, 10:26 PM
OK so here is where we are at now:

- I pulled the boat out of the auto mechanic today. The trailer light issue is fixed...so those will run at night now. (there was a blown fuse in the engine compartment pertaining to the trailer lights)

- The gauges still don't work. I will get it back to the mechanic in a week or so...we need to get on the water a few times before summer is over. The speedometer (via Perfect Pass works). Question: is there a control box or something under the dash for the gauge wiring? The mechanic seemed to think there may be a control box/unit that would help him solve the dash issue. Is there a wiring diagram available somewhere for the dash?

- As soon as I got home, the boat fired right up. I have a Perko flush kit installed in the engine (we live near some brackish water). With the garden hose attached to the kit, and the water turned on, I fired the boat up. The water usually flushes through the engine and comes out the exhaust pipes under the swim grid at a good pace. Today, it was slowly leaking out at the top of the prop shaft...

Any idea what is up? Has my auto mechanic done something wrong? Impeller issue? Something else?

Please let me know...hoping to get some of the young cousins on the water this weekend...thanks everyone.

Thrall
08-04-2011, 11:29 PM
But it still came out the exhaust too right?
03? should have a dripless seal on the prop shaft, correct?
If so, that seal is fed water and you will see it run out at top end of the shaft.

If you didn't get any water out the exhaust, there's more problems, bad impeller maybe?

Not sure how no fuel presure turned in to no spark, bad ignition coil.:confused::confused:

x10vancouver2003
08-05-2011, 12:16 AM
There is no water coming out of the 2 exhaust holes in the stern under the swim grid...only out of the top of the shaft.

I have never seen water come out at the top end of the shaft before. Not sure what is going on here. My buddy and I did some digging around in the engine, and water is definitely circulating through the impeller and into the engine. It just isn't coming out of the exhaust. Only a couple drops of water, not the usual steady flow.

What is this about the dripless seal? Can this seal be damaged from running the engine without water going thru? (maybe my auto mechanic ran the engine this way without water circulation?). I will talk to him in the morning and see what he has to say.

Any other ideas?

Thrall
08-05-2011, 02:08 AM
Look at the seal around where the shaft goes out of the hull. If it has a big hex nut on it, it's a standard packing type seal (adjust the nut so that it barely drips every couple sec INTO the boat) this water keeps the seal cool. This is for older boats, not sure when MC switched to teh dripless seals, after 96 and before 06, per my boats.
Look at the same area, if there's a rubber seal with a small water line going to it, that is a dripless seal (doesn't drip into the boat), instead colling water flows out of the seal, ie: the water you see coming out the bottom of the boat.
You can't damage the seal by running the engine out of water as long as the boat is in neutral, water or no water going to it. The seal won't heat up unless the prop is spinning out of the water, or no cooling water to the seal.
If your mech ran the engine for any length of time, a minute or more, without water, he probably cooked the impeller and that's why it's not pushing enough water through to come out the exhaust. Water should be running out both exhausts within 10 sec or less? of starting hte engine on a hose or a fake a lake.
Check your impeller. It's in the raw water pump attached to the crank snout, front (back because you have a v drive) of the engine. Little plate with 4 small brass screws holding it on. Search impeller replacement on here if you have questions.
DON'T run the engine if you're not getting water out the exhaust.
Did you ck to see if the mech closed the seacock on the intake line?

Good luck man. I feel sorry for you with these problems. I'm off to Lake of the Ozarks for a week! Can't bring my boat, too far, but my buddies have a X15 and a Mailbo LSV, so we won't be slummin'.
If you can't figure all this stuff out, bring it down to me after the summer's up and I'll give you a hand learnin about your boat. Only a couple hrs from Vancover to Seattle, right? (just moved here)

bigmac
08-05-2011, 09:15 AM
- The gauges still don't work. I will get it back to the mechanic in a week or so...we need to get on the water a few times before summer is over. The speedometer (via Perfect Pass works). Question: is there a control box or something under the dash for the gauge wiring? The mechanic seemed to think there may be a control box/unit that would help him solve the dash issue. Is there a wiring diagram available somewhere for the dash?



Yes, the MMDC is the control module that all the gauges connect to. It's under the dash, usually screwed to the upper right part of the kick panel. The Perfect Pass Master Module is separate and connects to the boat through a separate harness (connector for which is usually located under the right rear bow cushion). That circuit goes only to the PP display gauge, so it's reasonable that the PP gauge would work while the other gauges are dark since it's receiving power, tach, and paddlewheel info on a separate circuit and it has its own fuse rather than running through the circuit breaker that goes to the MMDC. At least, that's the normal installation for PP Wakeboard Pro v 6.5n on a 2002-2005 MasterCraft.

So, assuming it's a factory installation or was user-installed according to the PP manual, it sounds like the problem is with your MMDC module. Either it's not getting power (bad ground, circuit breaker tripped, unplugged, bad connection, broken wire) or the module itself has gone TU.

x10vancouver2003
08-05-2011, 08:15 PM
Thanks again for all the replies everyone.

So I replaced the impeller in the engine, got the boat on level ground (our driveway is quite the slope)...and ran the hose into the engine with the boat on. Everything is working properly...which is awesome news. So a new ignition coil + impeller = boat back to life. Sort of.

The only thing left is re: the Kenwood CD player deck we have right beside the steering wheel. There is NO power getting to it. I have checked the fuse behind the deck, tested for power to the remote turn on, power, ground, etc. And nothing. I've tried hitting the "reset" button on the front of the faceplate...and still. No power. The duel batteries are both fine...the boat fires up as soon as the key is turned in the ignition. Any idea what I am looking at now? We'll be on the water Sunday with or without music...but I really want all of these headaches to disappear. Any suggestions?

x10vancouver2003
08-07-2011, 03:48 PM
Bump, RE: the boat stereo issue?