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madman
06-14-2011, 12:15 PM
I want to replace the carb on my 93' ps190. I have been reading through threads with carb info and now I am going to buy one, the question is, buy new or rebuilt and what model will perform the best? I am tired of my motor not wanting to idle, and sometimes it wont even run at low RPM. I have the idle set up a little bit and that helps somewhat but I am sick of it. I hate floating in the water while whoever is driving tries in vain to keep the boat running. Don't really care about the budget on this item I just want the best I can get. Help!!!!!!!

thanks, Kevin

mayo93prostar
06-14-2011, 12:51 PM
Which engine/carb do you have? Regular carb at 240 HP, HO carb/heads at 285 HP, or the Corvette LT1 fuel injected enginer were available in that boat. Assuming carb, does your fuel inlet come in on the front of the carb and a downward angle (4160) or two lines in on the side (4010)? This will tell you if you have the 4010 or 4160 carb. The 4010 was notoriously bad relative to idling and many people have switched to the other model, but you need a different fuel line if you switch. I still have the 4010. Recommend to talk to Vince at SKIDIM and he will help identify your carb and get you a new one. Here is link to carbs.
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1115
Remanufactured ones are available also.

SugarLake
06-14-2011, 01:00 PM
I would go new, I didn't and have regretted it. One thing to keep in mind is not all wearable parts are replaced in a typical remanufactured carb. In particular they don't replace the throttle shaft bushings and these can wear and create vacum leaks. That was my problem and it took a long time for me to figure it out.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-14-2011, 01:29 PM
The 4160 is definitely the way to go. It is a much more civilized carb.

alw65029
06-14-2011, 01:59 PM
Switched to a Edelbrock 600CFM Marine from Jeg's 10 years ago on my 85 S&S and have never looked back. Runs great!

madman
06-14-2011, 02:43 PM
Which engine/carb do you have? Regular carb at 240 HP, HO carb/heads at 285 HP, or the Corvette LT1 fuel injected enginer were available in that boat. Assuming carb, does your fuel inlet come in on the front of the carb and a downward angle (4160) or two lines in on the side (4010)? This will tell you if you have the 4010 or 4160 carb. The 4010 was notoriously bad relative to idling and many people have switched to the other model, but you need a different fuel line if you switch. I still have the 4010. Recommend to talk to Vince at SKIDIM and he will help identify your carb and get you a new one. Here is link to carbs.
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1115
Remanufactured ones are available also.

1 fuel line angled down on front of carb, so it is a 4160 then? Should I rebuild it if it is or get a new one?

thatsmrmastercraft
06-14-2011, 04:00 PM
1 fuel line angled down on front of carb, so it is a 4160 then? Should I rebuild it if it is or get a new one?

That would be a 4160. Not too tough to rebuild. Have you done any carb work before?

madman
06-14-2011, 07:45 PM
I have rebuilt a few carbs over the years, have not done one since the mid 90's. Best place to buy a rebuild kit?

thatsmrmastercraft
06-14-2011, 10:09 PM
Holley 4160's are easy. Make sure to use a Marine Holley Brand (only) rebuild kit. Can't go wrong with buying parts from SKIDIM, but you can pick these up locally or from the internet. Replace the floats, be sure the power valve is the same number, use a cleaner with an agitator to make sure everything gets clean. I like to use the blue gaskets so you can take the carb apart if you need to without gasket issues. Follow the directions and all should go well. No rocket science here.

madman
06-15-2011, 10:44 AM
Thanks to all for the info. Will order a rebuild kit and see how much damage I can do.

slushpup
06-15-2011, 11:27 AM
4160 is a easy rebuild, Make sure your metering block is spotless, Follow the directions and you will be all set,Biggest problem with these carbs is during the re-build harry the backyard mechanic re-builds a dirty carb then complains that it doesent work..Think about buying a new metering block,That way you know its clean.

madman
06-15-2011, 11:45 AM
Thanks, I will pay extra attention to detail when cleaning the parts.

TonyB
06-15-2011, 01:41 PM
Be warned tho'. The rebuild kit I got from skidim had no instructions, only an exploded diagram.

There may be extra parts (i.e. gaskets). I found some links on the interwebz that helped me through my rebuild.

Here is one: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/45798/photo_02.html

Matt L.
06-16-2011, 02:08 AM
600 CFM Edelbrock Marine Carb.

Problem solved!

My $0.02

Matt

JohnMogs
03-27-2012, 11:21 PM
I'm about to rebuild or replace too. How did the rebuild work out for you?

Anyone add the tilt spacer or wedge between the carb and intake, seems like a good idea to have the carb sit level, so the floats....float

JMann
03-28-2012, 12:58 AM
I rebuilt mine last summer and it was a piece of cake. I was worried about it but had a guy that had rebuilt carbs in the past help me which wasn't necessary. Once I got in there and saw how easy it actually was I didn't need any help.
My biggest thing is I never retuned the carb. It ran OK but I need to refigure out the best way to reset the adjustments to original. I think the PO must have adjusted the carb to make it run better while it was dirty.
Any advance on where and how to reset the needles would be welcome.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-28-2012, 01:15 AM
I rebuilt mine last summer and it was a piece of cake. I was worried about it but had a guy that had rebuilt carbs in the past help me which wasn't necessary. Once I got in there and saw how easy it actually was I didn't need any help.
My biggest thing is I never retuned the carb. It ran OK but I need to refigure out the best way to reset the adjustments to original. I think the PO must have adjusted the carb to make it run better while it was dirty.
Any advance on where and how to reset the needles would be welcome.

Basic tuning is 2 turns out, but to get it tuned correctly you need a vacuum gauge hooked up to read manifold vacuum, using the pcv port is ok, warm engine running and transmission in neutral then evenly adjust the screws in or out until you achieve maximum vacuum on gauge, reset base idle if necessary, then you should be good to go.

Dino Don
03-28-2012, 09:13 AM
Thanks to all for the info. Will order a rebuild kit and see how much damage I can do.

If your carb does not have the flash back update (protects the power valve) buy the kit from Holleyand fix yours. I have a 4160 that I had issues with until I fixed it. Power Valve Check Ball Kit PART #: 125-500 was the best $15.00 I had spent. :D

thatsmrmastercraft
03-28-2012, 11:39 AM
If your carb does not have the flash back update (protects the power valve) buy the kit from Holleyand fix yours. I have a 4160 that I had issues with until I fixed it. Power Valve Check Ball Kit PART #: 125-500 was the best $15.00 I had spent. :D

Good call on that update.

Power valve “blowout” protection can now be added to pre ‘92 model 2300, 4150 and 4160 carburetors. Consisting of a spring, brass seat and check ball, this kit will effectively protect the power valve and is easy to install. Included is the proper drill bit size, with stop, to facilitate installation. Detailed instructions are included.

http://www.holley.com/125-500.asp