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liledgy
06-12-2011, 08:59 AM
What are the carb settings on a 85 stars and stripes? 351 PCM? It seems like it's running rich.

TNPIG
06-12-2011, 09:29 AM
What does running rich sound like? Sorry, still learning

liledgy
06-12-2011, 02:01 PM
Sorry, let me rephrase as I'm learning to, hence the question. It APPEARS to be running rich, their is a smell of gasoline coming from exhaust and a little bit of a gasoline shine also coming from exhaust. Just looking for some advice.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-12-2011, 02:06 PM
Has this been an ongoing problem or is it something new? Carb settings don't change on their own, but you could have a bad float or have a blown power valve. Any backfire through the carb recently? The other end of this could be an ignition problem not providing sufficient spark to burn the fuel completely. Problems with spark plugs, dist cap & rotor, or plugs wires could cause this as well.

TNPIG
06-12-2011, 02:44 PM
I have a bit of a different problem on a 84 S&S. Last time out, I noticed a bit of fuel that seemed to have leaked out of what I'm guessing is the fuel line going up to the carb. The first time out this Summer, it took a little while to start after sitting for a few months. I was pulling back on the throttle to pump fuel in the carb in order to start, and I noticed it leaking from that line then. I had to pump the throttle back quite a few times on that first start of the Summer when I initially noticed the leaking. Is it possible to pump too much fuel through that line before starting to where it would cause an o ring or something to leak. Either way, I'm pretty sure I don't want any amount of fuel leaking in the engine area. Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm new to this and trying to learn. Thanks

thatsmrmastercraft
06-12-2011, 06:22 PM
I have a bit of a different problem on a 84 S&S. Last time out, I noticed a bit of fuel that seemed to have leaked out of what I'm guessing is the fuel line going up to the carb. The first time out this Summer, it took a little while to start after sitting for a few months. I was pulling back on the throttle to pump fuel in the carb in order to start, and I noticed it leaking from that line then. I had to pump the throttle back quite a few times on that first start of the Summer when I initially noticed the leaking. Is it possible to pump too much fuel through that line before starting to where it would cause an o ring or something to leak. Either way, I'm pretty sure I don't want any amount of fuel leaking in the engine area. Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm new to this and trying to learn. Thanks

There should be absolutely no fuel leaking from the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb. Any fuel leaking can cause a fire or an explosion at start-up and should be resolved before using.

This is supposed to be a hard steel or braided stainless line. You can experience a leak if it isn't properly tightened. Be sure to use a open end wrench or a flare nut wrench on each fitting to tighten. Pictures always help to sort out problems.

TNPIG
06-12-2011, 06:48 PM
There should be absolutely no fuel leaking from the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb. Any fuel leaking can cause a fire or an explosion at start-up and should be resolved before using.

This is supposed to be a hard steel or braided stainless line. You can experience a leak if it isn't properly tightened. Be sure to use a open end wrench or a flare nut wrench on each fitting to tighten. Pictures always help to sort out problems.

Thanks. I'm not near my boat and won't be until next weekend. If I remember correctly, it seems like the line that is leaking fuel is towards the front left side of the engine if you are in the drivers seat. Maybe just up and to the rear of the altenator belt? It may not be the one going to the carb. It is a solid metal line though. When I get to the lake next weekend I will try and put a pic up.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-12-2011, 09:19 PM
Thanks. I'm not near my boat and won't be until next weekend. If I remember correctly, it seems like the line that is leaking fuel is towards the front left side of the engine if you are in the drivers seat. Maybe just up and to the rear of the altenator belt? It may not be the one going to the carb. It is a solid metal line though. When I get to the lake next weekend I will try and put a pic up.

That is the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb. Make sue the brass fitting at the carb is tight to the carb, then make sure the fitting on the fuel line is tight to the brass fitting on the carb. Be sure to use open end or flare nut wrenches so you don't round the fittings. I couldn't find pics from my boat, but this is a similar fuel line from SKIDIM.

liledgy
06-12-2011, 10:45 PM
Thank you for the replys, I bought this boat " non running". Installed new plugs, wires cap, rotor and electronic ignition conversion from skidim, also bought a coil and fuel filter. Installed everything and the boat ran and idled decent. While water testing, boat had no hole shot, I played with the distributor and dialed it. It was running great except for the fuel residue out the exhaust.
Now for a new problem, ran the boat today while waiting for the mixture screw settings. Boat ran good, shut it off and it would not start again. Pumped throttle and fuel was going down carb. Checked for spark out of wire from coil to cap and didn't have any. I didn't have my original coil with me to see if I got a bad coil. I had power on both terminals of coil with key on. I also by passed he resister by solenoid as directions called for.

TNPIG
06-12-2011, 11:27 PM
That is the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb. Make sue the brass fitting at the carb is tight to the carb, then make sure the fitting on the fuel line is tight to the brass fitting on the carb. Be sure to use open end or flare nut wrenches so you don't round the fittings. I couldn't find pics from my boat, but this is a similar fuel line from SKIDIM.

Thanks so much. The bottom end of that line looks exactly like what was leaking a bit. Does the top part go to the carb and the bottom end to the fuel pump? I tried to tighten where it was leaking and it seemed tight. I may go ahead and order that line anyway. It was a couple of weeks ago last I was at the lake, so next week I can put my eyes on it and hopefully get it fixed. Thanks for your help and time.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-12-2011, 11:28 PM
When you dialed in the dist, did you use a timing light to set it or were you doing it the old fashioned way? If you have it too far advance it may give you some hard cranking/starting issues.

The base setting for the idle mixture screws are 1 1/2 turns out. From there you can turn them in or out to get the highest idle speed.

You might pull a plug or two to check their color.

Which electronic ignition conversion kit did you use?

liledgy
06-13-2011, 02:28 PM
Skidim sent me the petronix kit, it doesn't call to change the timing in the directions, I called them and asked about it, and about my tach not reading accurately. They said it advances automatically? And said I may need a resister between coil and the wire that goes to ignition switch. I timed it the old fashioned way because with the kit it didn't give me a number to time it too. Thanks for the carb settings too!!!!! I marked the distributor before changing it, maybe I'll put it back before I change coil.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-13-2011, 03:35 PM
There are several different timing specs for different years. It should be either 6 or 10 degrees. It is worthwhile to get it set properly to get the most out of your engine, aid in proper starting, and prevent any detonation problems. It doesn't take much of a move of the dist. to be off on the timing.

You can get a Ballast Resistor from SKIDIM or your local auto parts store. This isn't a specifically marine part.

liledgy
06-13-2011, 10:12 PM
I'll pick one up. With my neighbors help, he thinks I have a bad ignition module. I'm tempted to buy some points and put it back to stock.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-13-2011, 11:19 PM
I sold a bunch of Pertronix conversions years ago and don't remember having one come back defective. Throwing in a set of points certainly would be a way to determine whether or not the Pertronix unit is working properly or not. Of course that means picking up a dwell meter to set the points properly.

I keep coming back to the power valve as being a possible source for too much fuel at idle, since they go full rich when they blow. You would need to pull the primary fuel bowl to test the power valve. With it removed, while holding the large end, try to turn the smaller end. If this turns, the power valve is shot.

Have you double-checked the routing of your spark plug wires? When I got my boat, the PO had crossed two wires. It ran surprisingly well that way. Ultimately I had a backfire through the carb which blew the power valve.