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meg
06-08-2011, 10:02 PM
Putting a new prop on-Anything I should do other than slide on and tighten nut? Also, I nicked the old prop and was wondering (don't think there is happened while trailering boat) but if there is a shaft issue what should I look for other than vibration?

thx

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
06-08-2011, 10:07 PM
Might want to apply water proof grease to prop shaft where prop goes, will make next removal of prop a breeze...

pmkkdx
06-09-2011, 08:51 AM
remember to install a cotter pin after nut is installed too!

willyt
06-09-2011, 09:37 AM
Stainless cotter pin is necessary too...

SS LS1
06-09-2011, 09:40 AM
It should be obvious, but be sure to use a stainless cotter pin too not a coated steel one or it will rust away on you.


Edit (damn, Willy just beat me to hitting the post reply button)

JLeuck64
06-09-2011, 09:50 AM
http://elberts.com/faq.htm

Lots of good info on this web page

meg
06-09-2011, 10:04 AM
Thanks guys!!!! I assume the new prop just slides on the shaft-is there a need to align anything up in particular?

thx again!!!

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
06-09-2011, 10:32 AM
If its splined Just slide it on and tighten nut and insert cotter pin, if it has a keyway line up slot on prop and continue installation...

Thrall
06-09-2011, 11:50 AM
What jmcreight said.......
There is a torque spec, but I just tightened mine relatively tight (no impact or breaker bars, just as tight as I could get it by hand with a box wrench.
Note, if you have a tapered shaft, it's reccomended to use a little valve grinding compound between the prop and shaft. Spin the prop a bunch of times to let the compound "smooth" out any imperfections to ensure that it seats 100% on the shaft.

TRBenj
06-09-2011, 01:37 PM
What jmcreight said.......
There is a torque spec, but I just tightened mine relatively tight (no impact or breaker bars, just as tight as I could get it by hand with a box wrench.
Note, if you have a tapered shaft, it's reccomended to use a little valve grinding compound between the prop and shaft. Spin the prop a bunch of times to let the compound "smooth" out any imperfections to ensure that it seats 100% on the shaft.
^^This is good info.^^

You do NOT want to be putting grease on a tapered shaft. The prop relies on the taper to stay on- hence the valve grinding compound.

Test fit the prop without the key first, and make sure you get it all the way back to that point when reinstalling with the key. You dont want to be binding on the keyway.

meg
06-09-2011, 01:52 PM
not to be an idiot but mine is splined so I assume I don't need to worry about the taper or key??

thx for the input guys

willyt
06-09-2011, 03:12 PM
It should be obvious, but be sure to use a stainless cotter pin too not a coated steel one or it will rust away on you.


Edit (damn, Willy just beat me to hitting the post reply button)

in yo face :) (not like th girl who fell off the 45, tho) :uglyhamme

pmkkdx
06-09-2011, 04:51 PM
not to be an idiot but mine is splined so I assume I don't need to worry about the taper or key??

thx for the input guys

I am not sure what year & model boat you have??? but if it's a splined shaft, smear a little waterproof grease in the hole in front end (the part going on the shaft first) of the prop, slide it up on the shaft, you may have to twist/turn a little bit to get the spline on the shaft to align with the spline in the hole of the prop to push it on all the way, put on the lock nut, tighten while holding the prop blades from turning as tight as possible using a wrench (no cheater bar/pipe) ... put in a NEW stainless steel cotter pin, spread the cotter pin ends back up around the shaft ... good to go.

meg
06-10-2011, 08:49 AM
Thx guys!!!!!