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JeromeM
06-06-2011, 09:43 PM
In my 99 PS 205 I have a heater, I never tried to use it last year but this year I thought I would use it since I have it.

Yesterday I opened the tap on the engine, starter her up and right away there was water leaking at the heater core (I have my kick panel out since I'm in the middle of a stereo install) so I shut things off and closed the tap.

Tonight I go to look into it further, I took the heater core out and will be inspecting that tomorrow with respect to the leak but here is what I found for the blower, is this normal? There are 2 red wires that are tapped into a "low" and a "high" wire from factory, there's a ground then the yellow wire goes to nothing.

When I use the Acc 3 switch which is the 3 position switch on my boat, the fan doesn't work at all. I know on a Car/Marine audio deck the yellow is fused 12V constant, would the same apply here?

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e51/GTPJAY/IMG-20110606-00031.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e51/GTPJAY/IMG-20110606-00030.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e51/GTPJAY/IMG-20110606-00034.jpg

Thanks for the help!

Jay

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
06-06-2011, 10:26 PM
I dont think the blower would have 2 power supplies, looks like they rewired it for a 2 position fan speed so thats why 3 doesn't do anything, is there a fan resistor anywhere? For this install they probably just left the yellow open, we would need to get a factory wiring diagram to verify...

JeromeM
06-06-2011, 11:28 PM
I will look further up the wires tomorrow to see if I can find a resistor. There was nothing happening at all when I tried the switch so maybe a breaker or something.

Table Rocker
06-07-2011, 06:21 AM
The resistor could be inside the electric motor. Test the motor on a battery by putting the black on (-) and the red on (+) and see what happens.

mdskier
06-07-2011, 07:06 AM
I don't know about resister, but there should be fuse. I have a 99 Maristar and only have an on/off switch for the heater (ACC 2). So I only wired the orange lead and the black lead. According to Heatercraft, the black is ground, the orange is high speed, the red is medium speed and yellow is low speed. It looks like you should have off/high/med.

My fan did not work but had no heater core leaks. I replaced the blower with a replacement from Heatercraft.

Their installation instructions are here -
http://www.heatercraft.com/images/Documents/Heater_Instal_Marine.pdf

JeromeM
06-07-2011, 08:45 AM
Thanks for the advice, I will test it tonight when I get home. I assume if the core leaks + the blower is shot, I basically need to buy a new kit?

Any chance there's an automotive blower that matches this one? I've seen the threads about the possible automotive heater core options but not blowers.

JeromeM
06-07-2011, 11:07 PM
ok, tonight I looked at it and the breaker was tripped so i reset it. I then tried the switch, on position 1 and 2 and blower still didn't work. I then tried to turn the blower by hand and couldn't for the life of me turn it :S so I'm guessing it needs to be replaced also.

mdskier
06-07-2011, 11:23 PM
yeah, that's what was wrong with mine. motor seized up. Like $150 from Heatercraft.

wheelerd
06-07-2011, 11:27 PM
I just installed the exact same Heatercraft unit on my boat. The wiring colors are as mdskier indicated. I have the two position ACC switch so I wired in the high and low speeds.
If your blower fan is seized that explains why the breaker would have tripped. You may be able to free it with a couple of shots of WD40 and some gentle pressure back and forth but it may only be a short term fix.

JeromeM
06-07-2011, 11:30 PM
Thanks, you guys are likely right, since my heater core is also shot, this isn't going to be cheap :(

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
06-08-2011, 12:17 AM
Its summer who needs a heater anyway...

JeromeM
06-08-2011, 12:45 AM
I'm in Canada, eh, lol those 6am sessions are cold!!!

Thrall
06-08-2011, 03:37 AM
I just installed the exact same Heatercraft unit on my boat. The wiring colors are as mdskier indicated. I have the two position ACC switch so I wired in the high and low speeds.
If your blower fan is seized that explains why the breaker would have tripped. You may be able to free it with a couple of shots of WD40 and some gentle pressure back and forth but it may only be a short term fix.

Yeah, the yellow wire, IIRC is for "medium" speed.
If it's seized, guess that's the first problem, but strange that's wired to a low and high labeled wires. Do those labeled wires go to the 3 position Heatercraft switch or is there a 2 position OEM switch on the dash that is actually controlling the heater?

JeromeM
06-08-2011, 06:40 AM
Yeah, the yellow wire, IIRC is for "medium" speed.
If it's seized, guess that's the first problem, but strange that's wired to a low and high labeled wires. Do those labeled wires go to the 3 position Heatercraft switch or is there a 2 position OEM switch on the dash that is actually controlling the heater?

There is only the 2 position switch on the dash, looks like they connected the "low" to the medium wire and the high to the high wire leaving the yellow low speed disconnected.

I will try to find local replacements for both blower and heater core.....wish me luck.

wheelerd
06-08-2011, 07:47 AM
I'm from Alberta and ya, those cold mornings (and afternoons, and evenings.) I know what you mean, eh!

Buying the blower and the heater core separately is probably just as expensive (or more) than buying the complete unit.

When I was looking for my unit the best price I found was at marinenutz.com out of Washington state. They carry all the sizes (2 - 4 outlet) and vent combinations. I would have purchased from them but ended up snagging a brand new unit including hoses and vents on Ebay from a guy who bought the kit with his boat but never installed it.

wheelerd
06-08-2011, 08:23 AM
I will try to find local replacements for both blower and heater core.....wish me luck.

One other replacement option which I remembered running across when I was looking for mine. Check this out for $167:
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tops/Heater-Craft-Auxillary-Heaters.aspx?t_c=75&t_s=461&t_pt=3419&t_pl=103955

The off road guys also use the Heatercraft units but for some reason they are a lot cheaper. This one has the same specs (BTU, air flow, amperage) as the marine one except that the outlets are 2 1/2" rather than 3". Maybe you could keep your shell and just swap in the core and blower. Worth considering IMHO.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
06-08-2011, 11:13 AM
One other replacement option which I remembered running across when I was looking for mine. Check this out for $167:
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tops/Heater-Craft-Auxillary-Heaters.aspx?t_c=75&t_s=461&t_pt=3419&t_pl=103955

The off road guys also use the Heatercraft units but for some reason they are a lot cheaper. This one has the same specs (BTU, air flow, amperage) as the marine one except that the outlets are 2 1/2" rather than 3". Maybe you could keep your shell and just swap in the core and blower. Worth considering IMHO.

If something is listed marine or boat you can triple the price versus buying an automotive unit...

JeromeM
06-08-2011, 11:43 AM
I'm planning on going to NAPA today sometime with the heater core, I don't mind making a couple modifications is it means I save a good amount of $$. Shipping stuff from the US to Canada sucks.

Table Rocker
06-08-2011, 11:54 AM
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/boa/2369234623.html

$250 HeaterCraft in Atlanta.