View Full Version : steering on 83 S&S
aussies&s
07-22-2005, 08:41 PM
Just wondering if anyone knows how to adjust the steering on an old S&S. theres a little play in the wheel and i want to get rid of it? The steering is also really lite and i was just wondering if that was normal and if there was a way of tightening it up a little.
Just wondering if anyone knows how to adjust the steering on an old S&S. theres a little play in the wheel and i want to get rid of it? The steering is also really lite and i was just wondering if that was normal and if there was a way of tightening it up a little.
The light steering is normal. In fact, many drivers prefer it, myself included. Also, it usually wants to turn right if you let go of the wheel. There usually isn't very much play in the steering, and I'm not aware of any way to adjust that, short of replacing the cable or other parts that may be worn..
JEREMY79
07-23-2005, 10:53 PM
I have the opposite problem. My steering is very tight. How do you fix that.
I have the opposite problem. My steering is very tight. How do you fix that.
If it's the original steermaster system it's probably binding on the rudder end of the cable. A few years ago I had to spend quite a bit of time with WD-40 and grease to clean rust out of the sliding part.
Cloaked
07-24-2005, 02:03 PM
If it's the original steermaster system it's probably binding on the rudder end of the cable. A few years ago I had to spend quite a bit of time with WD-40 and grease to clean rust out of the sliding part.Yes indeed, it happens there. The steering assembly can be a problem too but mainly tightness in a steering system will start as described here.
With the risk of jacking this thread:
That leads me to another philosophy. Water dripping into yEr hull through the packing gland. That's a contributing factor of cables becoming stiff and other chronic ailments in the basement.
Within the shaft / stem assembly the rope packing is generically known as "junk rings" in the valve industry, which were once commonly used as fillers with a graphite composite packing ring used on each outter course of the total configuration of packing. Prior to the graphite availability, leakage was acceptable within applied tolerance specifications because of the nature of the material not to lubricate the packing. With current day availability of the graphite rings, spend the money, pack the gland (with connecting ends staggered at each ring), tighten it to a zero DPM and eliminate unnecessary water in the hull, foregoing potential chronic cable problems.
Packing glands do not require lubrication with water. Water has very little if any viscosity in this application. However a small intentional flow of water will keep the rings soft and seated (to a point) with water passing by into your hull. Again, each to their own.
A required leak (DPM) at the glad is either a myth, one's preference and I do say each to their own preferences, or a loose packing gland nut...
Or just a loose nut :uglyhamme
A dry hull means a smooth cable IMHO.... :friday:
Agreed. The use of more stainless components doesn't hurt either.
If it's the original steermaster system it's probably binding on the rudder end of the cable. A few years ago I had to spend quite a bit of time with WD-40 and grease to clean rust out of the sliding part.
Stiff steering - started today...
tph, You mentioned cleaning rust out of the "sliding part". Are you talking about the plastic end cap at the end of the assmbly.? The "rudder end" of my cable is very clean. Could there be rust/junk just inside the plastic "end cap"?