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kjohnson
06-03-2011, 12:03 PM
I have a 94 PS 190 that starts great when it is cold, but occasionaly, after skiing several passes and turning the engine off, the boat will not start. If you give it full throttle while trying to start it, it will start sometimes. Replaced the fuel pump and use ethanol free fuel. Most opinions are that it is vapor lock, created by heat in the engine compartment, so I raised the hood a little to keep the engine cool and it did not help. Anybody have any ideas as to what the problem may be? By the way, it is throttle body fuel injected.

onejdgreen
06-03-2011, 04:29 PM
I have never had an issue with any of mine, but a buddy did. It was the same way, engine cold it fired right off no problem, but once the engine got hot, after making a pull or 2, it would sometimes not start. I fixed his with a new temp sensor and thermostat. Hasn’t had a problem since. Now, that is the cheap the fix. The “workaround” may be to run the blower all of the time and see if that helps. If it does, I would say it is a “heat” related problem, the temp sensor. On this engine, that should be a Chevy 350 block, the temp sensor SHOULD be on the intake (throttle body), 2 wires, black and yellow. Try unplugging that when it won’t start and see if that takes care of it. If I remember right if the ECM sees engine temp above 190 it won’t start. The other thing to look at it when it won’t start is the injectors. Open the doghouse and remove the flame arrestor and see if there is gas dripping from them. If they leak it could be from fuel deposits. Ethanol blended gas can cause this if you don’t use a fuel treatment. If they are dripping, add a can of Sea Foam to the gas and run it. If that works, run an additive in your fuel. If none that takes care of it, you could be looking at something a lot more expensive, i.e. injectors, throttle body, etc.

agarabaghi
06-03-2011, 10:41 PM
I have a 94 PS 190 that starts great when it is cold, but occasionaly, after skiing several passes and turning the engine off, the boat will not start. If you give it full throttle while trying to start it, it will start sometimes. Replaced the fuel pump and use ethanol free fuel. Most opinions are that it is vapor lock, created by heat in the engine compartment, so I raised the hood a little to keep the engine cool and it did not help. Anybody have any ideas as to what the problem may be? By the way, it is throttle body fuel injected.

Vapor lock, and no real solution. You can try to insulate your fuel line. Also i notice if i hold the crank longer than usually (maybe 3x longer) it would start.

This was on a 94 prostar 205 with the 350

thatsmrmastercraft
06-03-2011, 10:49 PM
Vapor lock almost never happens with fuel injected systems due to the increased fuel pressure, but it can still occur under certain circumstances. When dealing with a hard starting issue, it is important to verify all the basics are covered. Plugs, wires, dist cap & rotor, fuel filter(s), correct timing, proper fuel pressure...

agarabaghi
06-03-2011, 10:51 PM
we were never able to resolve the issue. I was just cautious about turning off the boat out at sea... as that is where my 205 spent 800 of its 1500 hours...

thatsmrmastercraft
06-03-2011, 11:11 PM
Almost forgot a common culprit........the coil.

ahhudgins
06-03-2011, 11:53 PM
As mrmastercraft said, I've never heard of vapor lock on a fuel injected engine. First off, you need to see if you have gas coming out of the injector when it's cranking and spark at the plugs. The coil is famous for getting weak after it gets hot, compare the spark when it's cold versus when it won't fire up. If you have an impeller that is going bad or a partial blockage, the engine temperature may creep up on you while you are idling and you may not notice. Once you shut the engine off the temperature will continue to rise and the engine may not start until it cools down. If it won't fire up, turn your key to the RUN position and look at your temperature gauge.

I had a no start problem (crank but no start) that I thought was strictly temperature related on my 95 but it turned out to be a dirty ignition switch. START contact was good, but the RUN contact lost voltage when it was cranking. I had NO fuel and NO spark because the ECM was only getting about 6V. Took me several weeks to figure that one out.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-04-2011, 12:12 AM
As mrmastercraft said, I've never heard of vapor lock on a fuel injected engine. First off, you need to see if you have gas coming out of the injector when it's cranking and spark at the plugs. The coil is famous for getting weak after it gets hot, compare the spark when it's cold versus when it won't fire up. If you have an impeller that is going bad or a partial blockage, the engine temperature may creep up on you while you are idling and you may not notice. Once you shut the engine off the temperature will continue to rise and the engine may not start until it cools down. If it won't fire up, turn your key to the RUN position and look at your temperature gauge.

I had a no start problem (crank but no start) that I thought was strictly temperature related on my 95 but it turned out to be a dirty ignition switch. START contact was good, but the RUN contact lost voltage when it was cranking. I had NO fuel and NO spark because the ECM was only getting about 6V. Took me several weeks to figure that one out.

That was indeed a unique no start.

ahhudgins
06-04-2011, 01:03 AM
That was indeed a unique no start.

I brought the boat home and had it in the driveway for several hours with two volt meters and an oscilloscope connected to various points until I found the problem. A pain in the rear.

After seeing so many people with starting problems and having no idea where to look, I think I'm going to post a thread about how to do some simple voltage checks rather than guessing and throwing parts at the problem.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-04-2011, 01:55 AM
I brought the boat home and had it in the driveway for several hours with two volt meters and an oscilloscope connected to various points until I found the problem. A pain in the rear.

After seeing so many people with starting problems and having no idea where to look, I think I'm going to post a thread about how to do some simple voltage checks rather than guessing and throwing parts at the problem.

That would be a great benefit to the many who don't know where to start. Good luck in choosing a title that people will be be to find on the anemic search function here.

03geetee
06-04-2011, 02:54 PM
I brought the boat home and had it in the driveway for several hours with two volt meters and an oscilloscope connected to various points until I found the problem. A pain in the rear.

After seeing so many people with starting problems and having no idea where to look, I think I'm going to post a thread about how to do some simple voltage checks rather than guessing and throwing parts at the problem.

What was the problem?

JTR

gr82bgreen
06-04-2011, 04:03 PM
Almost forgot a common culprit........the coil.

I have a 95 tbi 200 vrs that was doing this. I replace the coil with a napa auto coil and it worked great for 2-3 days then started doing it again. Is a napa coil not good enough or do you think I have another problem. I previousely replaced ign module with no difference.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-05-2011, 10:01 PM
I have a 95 tbi 200 vrs that was doing this. I replace the coil with a napa auto coil and it worked great for 2-3 days then started doing it again. Is a napa coil not good enough or do you think I have another problem. I previousely replaced ign module with no difference.

I have never had a problem with Napa parts. It certainly is possible that your new coli failed. At the price of a coil. I would be tempted to buy another coil to try. If that doesn't fix it, you have verified that it isn't the coil and you now have a spare. If it fixes it you are good to go.

ahhudgins
06-05-2011, 10:06 PM
What was the problem?

JTR

Always started fine taking it off the trailer so I thought it was a heat related problem but it wasn't. The "RUN" (or IGN) contact on the ignition switch was intermittent. When I tried to start the boat, the "START" contact was good and turned over the starter. The "RUN" contact is supposed to be hot during cranking but it only 6 or 8V coming out of it.

03geetee
06-05-2011, 11:27 PM
Always started fine taking it off the trailer so I thought it was a heat related problem but it wasn't. The "RUN" (or IGN) contact on the ignition switch was intermittent. When I tried to start the boat, the "START" contact was good and turned over the starter. The "RUN" contact is supposed to be hot during cranking but it only 6 or 8V coming out of it.

Ok sounds exactly whats going on with mine, how do I fix this?

JTR