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View Full Version : Transom Oxidation Help!


Lakeside09
05-31-2011, 11:28 PM
I have read alot of the threads on this but I would like spot on guidance of how to take care of this on my transom. Also if you look close enough you can see small pin head spots... what is this...? I want to remove the letters and uprgrade to just a bigger Chrome MasterCraft or MasterCraft Wakeboard Edition since my 209 is essentially a X9 ( perfect pass, all factory ballast, and X9 tower)

Anyway... please guide me on how to remove all this and shine it up and apply new decals. I just dont want to take off the decals I have a it leave the letter outline on there.

Thanks!

http://i52.tinypic.com/2ue7fkn.jpg

Lakeside09
06-01-2011, 08:13 AM
I believe I have access to all the proper tools...

Thrall
06-01-2011, 11:19 AM
Check out the "Appearance" forum on here. Lots of instructions on buffing/polishing out oxidation.

Lakeside09
06-01-2011, 11:42 AM
Yeah I know about the appearance thread I was kinda concerned about the very small spotting...

BrianM
06-01-2011, 12:03 PM
That spotting should compound out. Remember high quality wool pad with a circular polisher. A random orbit won't cut enough. I would try a couple of passes with the compound first if it doesn't remove the oxidation to your liking you may need to wet sand with some 800 then compound, polish, wax.

jeffbare
06-01-2011, 12:59 PM
I just did the compound then wax this week by hand, and have thought of re-doing it with a circular buffer. Will that work if it has a fresh coat of wax?

BrianM
06-01-2011, 03:32 PM
I just did the compound then wax this week by hand, and have thought of re-doing it with a circular buffer. Will that work if it has a fresh coat of wax?

Yep. The compound will cut right through the wax.

Lakeside09
06-01-2011, 04:01 PM
What kind of compound, polish and wax is best and what kind of 800 grit sand paper... just want to make sure I am fully prepaired before I start in.

dietdewboy
06-02-2011, 08:51 AM
You oxidation problem doesn't seem that bad, there is still lots of color showing through.
A rotary buffer with a wool pad will clean that up easily however rotary buffers with wool pads are very aggressive and not really recommended for a novice, you can do a lot of damage to your decals in a heart beat. Moder day orbital polishers like the ones made by Griot's Garage and Flex as long as you use the right pads and polishes. I've got a lot of experience with both and these new orbitals are amazing as far as power and paint correction abilities. The bonus is you can also use them on your car, bikes just about anything.
Gel-Coat is much harder that automobile paint so many car products dont work that well. Wizard Turbo Cut compound works pretty well, its a diminishing compound that breaks down as you use it, Napa usually has it in stock. It starts similar to 1000 grit and breaks down to around 3000 grit as it gets worked in.
After that you need to use some type of Marine polish to take out any lite swirl marks (they look like spider webs) then a good sealant toped with a wax.
I could go on and on about the dreaded transom oxidation, my old navy blue 190 was a SOB to keep clean.
There is a ton of good information on the forums at autogeek.net.

jeffbare
06-06-2011, 05:08 PM
Yep. The compound will cut right through the wax.

Thanks, do you think it will take a little more effort and compound now that I will be cutting through a fresh coat of wax?

Lakeside09
06-06-2011, 07:18 PM
Where is the best place to buy the wool pads... just the regular ones from a parts store?

Lakeside09
06-06-2011, 07:20 PM
Also what kinda of Polish, Shine, and wax? I have heard that Turbo Cut is good for removing oxidation with the wool pad... ?

sand2snow22
06-06-2011, 07:25 PM
Might try this stuff. I bought a couple of bottles for future reference (no oxidation right now)

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/31713-no-more-need-to-wetsand/

BrianM
06-06-2011, 07:37 PM
I use pads from www.properautocare.com (http://www.properautocare.com) They have really high quality wool and foam pads. I haven't seen any pads at local auto parts store that are worth a darn. If you can find a local detailing or autobody supply store you should be able to find good ones there as well. As for compounds and polishes.

3M Super Duty Compound with a Wool Pad to cut that oxidation
3M Perfect It II on an Orange Foam Pad to bring back the gloss
Meguires Carnuba Wax on a Red Pad for final protection.

No need for anything marine specific. What works for paint will work on your gel.

And to answer your prior question you won't notice a bit of difference with the waxed hull.

Lakeside09
06-06-2011, 07:55 PM
Can you post links to all these? I do not want to purchase the wrong pads or products. Thanks!

dietdewboy
06-06-2011, 09:18 PM
no, it will cut right through, no problem

Lakeside09
06-08-2011, 01:18 AM
Ok all the oxidation came off very easy... but I can still see the faint imprint of the previous decals in a certain light... is there anything I can do about this?

Thrall
06-08-2011, 02:35 AM
Ok all the oxidation came off very easy... but I can still see the faint imprint of the previous decals in a certain light... is there anything I can do about this?

If you're putting another decal (even if it's different) in the same location, you'll never see it because the new decal will break up the view of the surface.
If you have to get it out, try hitting it again with the rubbing compound and then polish. If it's still not gone, wet sand it with 1000 grit then compound and polish. Although gel is probably 10x thicker than paint, do not sand directly over raised edges/corners. And go easy with the compounding on the raised edges too. The gel will come off quicker due to the pressure on a small area (edge) and burn through.

Kyle
06-08-2011, 03:10 AM
If wet sanding either use a block or press super lightly with your hand. If you press harder with your fingers you will leave marks where your fingers pressed too hard. When wet sanding very little pressure goes a long way. 800 grit will swirl the gel and then you compound forever. If 800 is needed follow up with 1000 then 1200 then compound. Did my buddies 209 red transom with 800, 1000, 1200, then compound and it looks brand new again. His was worse than yours.

Thrall
06-08-2011, 03:18 AM
The flexible rubber sanding blocks seem to work better than the hard rubber ones from the hardware store too. Very few completely "flat" surfaces on the boat.
And don't sand in a circular pattern on the final sanding or it will just accentuate swirl marks.
Sand back and forth then cross sand at 90 deg angle to the first direction.
Make sure you keep the paper wet and clean, very clean bucket or just use a spray hose. One tiny piece of grit under the paper will raise hell with the finish.

psychobilly
06-08-2011, 07:59 AM
BrianM, are these the ones you use?

http://www.properautocare.com/1347-The-Aggressor-7-5-Wool-Compounding-Pad.aspx

BrianM
06-08-2011, 10:09 AM
This is the wool pad I use. I have a dual action Makita with the 6" backing plate.

http://www.properautocare.com/1388-6-5-Gel-Coat-Compounding-Pad.aspx

As for the foam pads.

Orange

http://www.properautocare.com/1094-6-5-CCS-Orange-Power-Pad.aspx

Red

http://www.properautocare.com/1095-6-5-CCS-Red-Finishing-Pad.aspx

I also use white for light polishing with something like Meguires Polish from their three step system.

http://www.properautocare.com/1096-6-5-CCS-White-Polishing-Pad.aspx

psychobilly
06-08-2011, 05:56 PM
I see the ones you mean. I spent some time on their site today. Gunna be placing an order soon. I also see their trick for cleaning the wool pad. Purdy slick!!!

http://www.properautocare.com/1132-Gel-Coat-Pad-Kit-for-Circular-Kit.aspx

I have the DeWalt so I'm gunna order the 7.5"ers and some other good stuff.

One thing that I've noticed to keep that oxidation away after you spend the elbow grease to get it off is to wipe your boat down after you use it with that Meguiar's "Quick Detailer"...