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heypops
05-30-2011, 04:06 PM
Hey Guys,


Have MC 1994 190 EFI. Worked great last season and winterized it by the book.
(new water separator, fuel filter, StaBil in gas, fogging per instructions,stored battery etc)

PROBLEM:

Waking the boat up from winter's nap and 1st shake down cruise, the motor ran great for 15-20 minutes, then started to act like it was starved for gas. Even with WOT, the engine would rev up and then cut back, and cycled this way with rev'ing up and cutting back.

Finally (about 10 min later) the motor ran at max RPM of 1800-2100 RPM at WOT.

So far, I have changed out the water separator, fuel filter, siphoned out gas and replaced with new gas. Used 'gas-dry' for remaining water (if it was ever present).

Motor runs very well and starts w/o problem in the drive way with use of Flush-Pro.

When under load in the lake, does the motor not perform.

We are now 3 days into this problem with no resolution.
The family is getting restless for boating!! HELP!!

CONCLUSION: something wrong with the motor/gas/gas line/fuel pump/bad karma/etc.

NEED: any suggestions !!!!

Appreciate your time and efforts,

Heypops (akd George P. Burdell)

scott023
05-30-2011, 04:13 PM
Spark plugs been replaced? That or your fuel pump may need to be replaced.

heypops
05-30-2011, 04:31 PM
Have replace the plugs toward the end of the season last year.

These plugs have about 25 hrs on them.

Could the plugs go 'bad' over the winter rest period?
I thought about the plugs, but did not consider them to be bad with only 25hrs time on them.

thx for the suggestion!!!!

03geetee
05-30-2011, 04:45 PM
Have replace the plugs toward the end of the season last year.

These plugs have about 25 hrs on them.

Could the plugs go 'bad' over the winter rest period?
I thought about the plugs, but did not consider them to be bad with only 25hrs time on them.

thx for the suggestion!!!!

Im leaning towards a fuel pressure issue by the symptoms described but the spark plugs I always change due to the fogging procedure most winterization practices use. The cylinders are soaked in oil and the plugs reinstalled, then fired in the spring with those same plugs. After a run in the driveway or enough time to ensure the oil is long gone in go the new plugs.

Worth a try but Im thinking you are starving for fuel not spark.

JTR

heypops
05-30-2011, 05:29 PM
Appreciate replies !!!

Will change out spark plugs as suggested.

What would be best way to go about determining fuel flow or pressure problems ??

Is there a 'screen filter' inside the base of the electric fuel pump? (I have read of such a screen on other threads about fuel pumps)

Would not water separator (which is before the fuel pump) screen out debris before getting to the pump 'screen filter' ( if such a 'screen filter' exists at all at the base of the pump) ?

I'll chk the gas tank and pick-up tube also.


'Talley Ho' on finding the problem!!!

thx !!

JimN
05-30-2011, 05:30 PM
Hey Guys,


Have MC 1994 190 EFI. Worked great last season and winterized it by the book.
(new water separator, fuel filter, StaBil in gas, fogging per instructions,stored battery etc)

PROBLEM:

Waking the boat up from winter's nap and 1st shake down cruise, the motor ran great for 15-20 minutes, then started to act like it was starved for gas. Even with WOT, the engine would rev up and then cut back, and cycled this way with rev'ing up and cutting back.

Finally (about 10 min later) the motor ran at max RPM of 1800-2100 RPM at WOT.

So far, I have changed out the water separator, fuel filter, siphoned out gas and replaced with new gas. Used 'gas-dry' for remaining water (if it was ever present).

Motor runs very well and starts w/o problem in the drive way with use of Flush-Pro.

When under load in the lake, does the motor not perform.

We are now 3 days into this problem with no resolution.
The family is getting restless for boating!! HELP!!

CONCLUSION: something wrong with the motor/gas/gas line/fuel pump/bad karma/etc.

NEED: any suggestions !!!!

Appreciate your time and efforts,

Heypops (akd George P. Burdell)

Look at the screen at the fuel pump's intake side. It may have carpet fibers lodged in it. Also, you may have a second filter at the top of the tank, after the fuel shut-off and anti-siphon valve. Check these for debris and check the fuel pickup tube that's mounted in the plate on the top of the fuel tank.

heypops
05-30-2011, 06:56 PM
Thanks for the suggestion of the fuel shut-off valve & the anit-siphon valve evaluation.

What is the correct procedure for removing the electric fuel pump on MC 1994 190 with EFI ??

I see the 3 fuel connections to the pump.
[1 connection into pump from the water separator, another at the botton of the pump @ 45deg take-off. Where/what does this connection go/do?) and 1 connection at top of pump to the fuel filter]

Also clip-on electrical connection for power to the pump.

Does the fuel pump come off as simply as the fuel filter? ie. loosen the fuel line fitting with a wrench while using conter-torque wrench on the ajacent fitting.

Any special info to know when reassembly of pump and fittings?

Again.... many thanks to everyone.

HeyPops (aka G.P. Burdell)

sheyski
05-31-2011, 02:05 PM
We have the same problem with our 1994 Prostar. We've had several people suggest replacing the fuel pump so I think that's our next step. Hopefully we will have better success next weekend with pulling our ski show acts!

JimN
05-31-2011, 02:14 PM
We have the same problem with our 1994 Prostar. We've had several people suggest replacing the fuel pump so I think that's our next step. Hopefully we will have better success next weekend with pulling our ski show acts!

Wouldn't is make more sense to find the actual fuel pressure before replacing the pump? Key ON/Engine OFF, idle, 2000 RPM and WOT.

heypops
05-31-2011, 02:25 PM
Agree with JimN, but do not have the equipment to perform fuel line pressure tests.

Will be glad to try to find correct testing gauge and how to hook it up.

Please give me info on
1. What brand and model of gauge.
2. Instructions for hook up for testing.

After that, I have the mechanical skills to perform the work.

thanks !!!

JimN
05-31-2011, 02:36 PM
Agree with JimN, but do not have the equipment to perform fuel line pressure tests.

Will be glad to try to find correct testing gauge and how to hook it up.

Please give me info on
1. What brand and model of gauge.
2. Instructions for hook up for testing.

After that, I have the mechanical skills to perform the work.

thanks !!!

Before we get too far ahead on the fuel pressure test, look at the rigid fuel lines on the engine and look for a T fitting with a black cap. If you follow the fuel line from the pump to the throttle body and don't see one, you'll need to make an adapter (it's not hard, or expensive).

The gauge would thread onto the Shrader valve and then you would turn the key to On before pressing the purge button on the gauge. Take a fuel sample before starting it, using a clean, clear container (I always use a soft drink bottle that has been cleaned).

If you think you'll be doing this kind of thing in the future, you can buy a gauge at Sears, AutoZone or some other store- they should still be less than $40, or you can go to AutoZone and borrow one.

sheyski
05-31-2011, 02:44 PM
That was our problem too. We had no idea how to do a pressure test and don't have a fuel pressure gauge. We will have to wait til this weekend to get a gauge (we live too far from the cities where we can find a Sears or Autozone).

I just found out that DH already ordered a fuel pump late last night. He's not too computer savvy, so I hope he went to a good site to buy it.

Thanks.

heypops
05-31-2011, 02:56 PM
Thank you JimN,

Chked the fuel lines and NO 'T' fitting found. Must make an adapter.

What are the parts/procedure for making an 'adapter' ?

Really appreciate your help in this!!!

BrianS
05-31-2011, 04:32 PM
I had this same problem. As JimN said, there is a check valve at the top of the tank that only allows fuel to flow one way. Mine was clogged with debris.

heypops
05-31-2011, 05:18 PM
Good reminder !!!!

I am planning on chking these areas tomorrow, as weather allows.

My plans are:
1. Change out sparks plugs (those in now are 25 hrs and left in over winterizing)
2. Visually inspect the anit-siphon valve & pick-up tube in the gas tank.
3. Attempt to install fitting so as to attach fuel-line pressure gauge to ck pressures.
4. Get the pressure gauage hooked up and confirm pressure at apprx 30 psi.
5. Test drive boat after all above is accomplished.
6. Drive boat off a 'water-fall cliff' is still not working well ( Haha...Not really... just a joke!!)

Many thanks to all.
Pls keep the suggestions coming. All are welcome.
Will update as process continues.

Thanks again!!

JimN
05-31-2011, 06:55 PM
Good reminder !!!!

I am planning on chking these areas tomorrow, as weather allows.

My plans are:
1. Change out sparks plugs (those in now are 25 hrs and left in over winterizing)
2. Visually inspect the anit-siphon valve & pick-up tube in the gas tank.
3. Attempt to install fitting so as to attach fuel-line pressure gauge to ck pressures.
4. Get the pressure gauage hooked up and confirm pressure at apprx 30 psi.
5. Test drive boat after all above is accomplished.
6. Drive boat off a 'water-fall cliff' is still not working well ( Haha...Not really... just a joke!!)

Many thanks to all.
Pls keep the suggestions coming. All are welcome.
Will update as process continues.

Thanks again!!

I wouldn't change the plugs unless they're really bad. One winter and 25 hours won't kill them.

Since you're checking the fuel pressure, take a fuel sample. That can tell you a lot. If it's cloudy or dark (more than StaBil causes), think about getting rid of the gas.

heypops
06-01-2011, 09:35 PM
Thought it was fixed, only to find out still has same problem (all in the previous threads)

So, here is what I worked on:
1. Tank loosened and pick-up tube removed and cleaned (looked clean to start)
2. Cleaned anti-siphon valve & cut-off valve at top of tank (Looked cleaned anyway)
3. Flushed the gas line with cleaner.
4. Put in new gas
5. Changed out all the old spark plugs (old ones looked a little wet/fouled. My auto mechanic thought they looked mostly OK.

Put the boat in the water and VaRooom!! Worked great!!!! for about 5 min. Then back to top RPM of 2000-2100 and gradually over the next 45min the RPM and speed fell off to 1600-1800 RPM when corresponding less speed. NUTS!!!!!!

Am ready to chk fuel pressure with adapter and borrowed gauge from AutoZone. But don't know how I can ck it while running. Otherwise adapter will only allow the fuel line todead-end into gauge. (that will be a static fuel line pressure only, with key on).

Sooooo, I guess so far the culprit must be the FUEL PUMP. No other good suspects come to my mind.

Any suggestions and comments or similar experiences are welcome!
Thx, Pops (aka. G.P. Burdell from GT)

André
06-01-2011, 10:45 PM
100$ on the inlet screen at the fuel pump.
Got to clean mine mine every 2 seasons from carpet fibers and dog hairs...
Exact same problems when it happens.Is your fuel pump noisier then usual?

heypops
06-01-2011, 11:46 PM
Thank you for the info about the screen on the fuel pump.

I will take off the pump & check out the filter screen.
I'll let you know what I find.

However, on my 1994 MC 190 EFI, there is water-separator (spin on type with pleated filter) between the gas tank and the fuel pump. Between the fuel pump and throttle body is the fuel filter.

Question: should not the water-separator 'filter' out any hairs and debris before getting to the fuel filter?

Just wondering on this. I have very limited experience here.
thanks again!!

heypops
06-03-2011, 11:24 PM
Yahoo !!!! Found & Fixed the Problem!!

BAD FUEL PUMP !!!!!

Please see the previous posts for whole story and advice from fellow MC owners.

Info on what happened:
Removed the fuel pump & screen at inlet of the pump was completely clean!!

Replaced the pump with new one ordered from SKIDIM.COM (highly recommend using them).

Shazaaaam!!!!
Fired her up and even sounded different.
More throaty.
MUCH more power on the water too.
Seems the old fuel pump must have wearing out & been loosing pressure so gradually I did't notice the difference. Plus, last year was our first year owning the boat.

SUMMARY:
Worn out fuel pump not able to keep up with fuel flow to make the boat perform.
Replaced failing fuel pump. Performance is GREAT!!!

Many thanks to all who helped!!

Happy boating!
HeyPops (aka G.P. Burdell)

heypops
06-03-2011, 11:26 PM
Yahoo !!!! Found & Fixed the Problem!!

BAD FUEL PUMP !!!!!

Please see the previous posts for whole story and advice from fellow MC owners.

Info on what happened:
Removed the fuel pump & screen at inlet of the pump was completely clean!!

Replaced the pump with new one ordered from SKIDIM.COM (highly recommend using them).

Shazaaaam!!!!
Fired her up and even sounded different.
More throaty.
MUCH more power on the water too.
Seems the old fuel pump must have wearing out & been loosing pressure so gradually I did't notice the difference. Plus, last year was our first year owning the boat.

SUMMARY:
Worn out fuel pump not able to keep up with fuel flow to make the boat perform.
Replaced failing fuel pump. Performance is GREAT!!!

Many thanks to all who helped!!

Happy boating!
HeyPops (aka G.P. Burdell)

thatsmrmastercraft
06-03-2011, 11:28 PM
Congrats on winning the battle.

Catchin'
06-03-2011, 11:37 PM
Was your service engine light coming on?

heypops
06-04-2011, 12:02 AM
No engine or trans lights on.
1994 MC 190. The basics here on engine info. No OBD computer or limp mode.
Made thing a little easier.
Never did measure the fuel pressure. No schrader valve in fuel line. Plus I had exhausted all the options as possible cause other than fuel pump.
The techs at SKIDIM were really a great help. Help me trouble shoot and get the right part!
Hope this helps someone.
later, dudes and dudettes !!

heypops
06-13-2011, 04:24 PM
Aghhhhh!!!!

It' back.....poor power and acceleration.

swapped out fuel pump & did GREAT for about 5 hrs of boating. Then BAM!!! Same problem!

Poor top end power and surging now and then.
Also, now poor idle in neutral with occationally dies and have to restart.

Could this be an bad fuel pump??? the new one is bad....not likely!!
Or how about MAP or TPS.

Does this MC Prostar 190 EFI/TBI have a OBD1 or 2 access port??

Open to suggestions!!

The kids want to wakeboard ASAP!!

thanks again,
Pops

JimN
06-13-2011, 09:47 PM
Aghhhhh!!!!

It' back.....poor power and acceleration.

swapped out fuel pump & did GREAT for about 5 hrs of boating. Then BAM!!! Same problem!

Poor top end power and surging now and then.
Also, now poor idle in neutral with occationally dies and have to restart.

Could this be an bad fuel pump??? the new one is bad....not likely!!
Or how about MAP or TPS.

Does this MC Prostar 190 EFI/TBI have a OBD1 or 2 access port??

Open to suggestions!!

The kids want to wakeboard ASAP!!

thanks again,
Pops

Can you open the throttle just a tiny bit? If you can, make sure the RPM doesn't go above normal idle speed. If it idles better at the normal idle speed with the throttle open a touch, it may be an IAC issue. That won't throw a code, either.

heypops
06-13-2011, 10:44 PM
I don't think the IAC would affect the top end performance, but I am not a marine engine tech.

Rather, seems to me a gas supply issue. That is why I need to chk the fuel pressures. Also plan on disconnecting/bypass the fuel/water separator (located between fuel tank and pump). Will put a 3/8" hose in-line fuel filter in the fuel hose at the top of the tank. A MasterCraft tech informed me that MC had recommended this in a TSB for older models like mine.

Will try these options and test the boat for test cruise. Will report findings.

thx for thinkin' with me.....

JimN
06-14-2011, 04:54 AM
I don't think the IAC would affect the top end performance, but I am not a marine engine tech.

Rather, seems to me a gas supply issue. That is why I need to chk the fuel pressures. Also plan on disconnecting/bypass the fuel/water separator (located between fuel tank and pump). Will put a 3/8" hose in-line fuel filter in the fuel hose at the top of the tank. A MasterCraft tech informed me that MC had recommended this in a TSB for older models like mine.

Will try these options and test the boat for test cruise. Will report findings.

thx for thinkin' with me.....

What will the new filter do that the separator isn't?

Have you looked at the fuel shut-off valve at the tank and the fuel pickup tube yet? There's also an anti-siphon device immediately after the fitting for the pickup tube and I would make sure that's not stuck or clogged.

heypops
06-14-2011, 09:38 AM
Hi Jim

Removing the water separator should increase the fuel flow by lessing the restriction of caused by the separator. So pump can work more efficiently. The in-line filter addition at the outflow hose at the tank is for pre-filtration before the pump to prevent clogging.

I have removed the tank, pick up tube and cleaned and visually inspected the cut-off valve.
All clear on that end.

Maybe a failed new pump at 5-6 hrs, but seems unlikely to me so soon.

I'm gonna look at the TPS or MAP more closely and clean the Throttle body throughly.

Will report as info comes available.

thx for the input.

JimN
06-14-2011, 10:37 AM
Hi Jim

Removing the water separator should increase the fuel flow by lessing the restriction of caused by the separator. So pump can work more efficiently. The in-line filter addition at the outflow hose at the tank is for pre-filtration before the pump to prevent clogging.

I have removed the tank, pick up tube and cleaned and visually inspected the cut-off valve.
All clear on that end.

Maybe a failed new pump at 5-6 hrs, but seems unlikely to me so soon.

I'm gonna look at the TPS or MAP more closely and clean the Throttle body throughly.

Will report as info comes available.

thx for the input.

The flow rate isn't sufficient that either filter will be significantly different from the other.

Have you checked for codes, yet? Also, check the fuel line from the tank to the pump, to make sure it's not being squeezed by the tank or anything else.

heypops
06-14-2011, 12:29 PM
Thx Jim for the feedback.

I'll ck the hose and all connections to be snug. Plan on taking the fuel pump off and chking the inlet screen also.

Interesting, that last year everything went great for over 100 hrs of boating. Now after the winter, these problems show up. Any cause & effect? Beats me!!

Nonetheless, the hunt is on for the fix.

I have yet to find the OBD1 port. I'll look around the transmission as suggested. I have a OBD2 scanner, but no adapter for the OBD1 (if it even on my boat).

I need to fabricate a fuel line with schrader valve to chk the pressures while running.
Any suggestions here?

This problem is fixable, just annoying for now!!
I'm not one to roll over and give up!

thanks again.

pmkkdx
06-14-2011, 12:56 PM
(this is like a bad soap opra ... I feel your pain too, nothing much worse than troubleshooting issues like these after you get thru all the obvious resolutions and still have issues! ... but I like your attitude so far!)

JimN
06-14-2011, 03:18 PM
Thx Jim for the feedback.

I'll ck the hose and all connections to be snug. Plan on taking the fuel pump off and chking the inlet screen also.

Interesting, that last year everything went great for over 100 hrs of boating. Now after the winter, these problems show up. Any cause & effect? Beats me!!

Nonetheless, the hunt is on for the fix.

I have yet to find the OBD1 port. I'll look around the transmission as suggested. I have a OBD2 scanner, but no adapter for the OBD1 (if it even on my boat).

I need to fabricate a fuel line with schrader valve to chk the pressures while running.
Any suggestions here?

This problem is fixable, just annoying for now!!
I'm not one to roll over and give up!

thanks again.

If it was mine, I would use a brass block with compression fittings and insert it in the fuel line in a place that wouldn't cause a problem with anything hitting it. ACE hardware and NAPA stores have them. Or, you could have a stainless nut silver soldered onto a fuel filter after drilling a hole in it.

The ALDL is at the rear of the engine and has a black/gray cap. You don't really need a scanner, though. You can get your codes using the check engine light and a paper clip that's inserted into the A and B terminals of the connector. Turn the key to ON and watch the dash light flash.

TOO-TALL
06-14-2011, 10:36 PM
Any word on a fix.... my boat is doing the same thing(almost).Mine starts to sputter and cough after about 30 minutes of use....
I have OEM plugs,plug wires,rotor and distributer cap on order.
I've replaced,fuel filter,fuel pump,drained the tank put fresh gas in and a bottle of sea foam.
This is my last option then its going to the dealer....I hate changeing all this and still haveing problems.

wtrskr
06-15-2011, 12:09 AM
I just pulled the codes from my '94 efi.

My dash light didn't flash with the paperclip in terminals A and B. But thanks to the world wide interweb, I discovered that you can put the wires ends from a 12v led light into terminals E and F and the light will flash with the codes.

JimN
06-15-2011, 12:24 AM
Any word on a fix.... my boat is doing the same thing(almost).Mine starts to sputter and cough after about 30 minutes of use....
I have OEM plugs,plug wires,rotor and distributer cap on order.
I've replaced,fuel filter,fuel pump,drained the tank put fresh gas in and a bottle of sea foam.
This is my last option then its going to the dealer....I hate changeing all this and still haveing problems.

You don't need to order those parts. I use Borg Warner Gold cap & rotor on my pickup (same parts as your boat) and they have a lifetime warranty. I got mine at Checker, which is now O'Reilley's. If, by "OEM", you mean the cap/rotor/wires/plugs that came on your boat, you're way overdue.

wrobins1
06-15-2011, 10:25 AM
What are the accecptable fuel pressure ranges? (EFI system with the no return fuel system 02 TBI) I do not mean to thread jack... but I did not think this simple question was worth starting a new thread for.

Matt L.
06-15-2011, 01:19 PM
What EI do you have? I have a Pertroniox Ignitor 2 and had the exact same problem. Ran great on the hose but had absolutely no power.

It requrired at least 9.5 volts to the coil to function properly. Due to s systemic buildup of resistance from corrosion at various connectors I only was getting 7.5V at the coil.

I rewired everything form the coil to the batts. Now have 13.75+ volts at the coil. Problem completey and permnantly solved.

www.genuinedealz.com for maring grade batt cables and connectors.

Later,

Matt

JimN
06-15-2011, 04:33 PM
What EI do you have? I have a Pertroniox Ignitor 2 and had the exact same problem. Ran great on the hose but had absolutely no power.

It requrired at least 9.5 volts to the coil to function properly. Due to s systemic buildup of resistance from corrosion at various connectors I only was getting 7.5V at the coil.

I rewired everything form the coil to the batts. Now have 13.75+ volts at the coil. Problem completey and permnantly solved.

www.genuinedealz.com for maring grade batt cables and connectors.

Later,

Matt

These don't use a coil with a resistor and they don't need a resistor of any kind in the system. Doesn't mean the coil can't be bad, though.

JimN
06-15-2011, 04:36 PM
What are the accecptable fuel pressure ranges? (EFI system with the no return fuel system 02 TBI) I do not mean to thread jack... but I did not think this simple question was worth starting a new thread for.

It may be better in its own thread because your system is different from the OP's boat. However, I think EngineNut posted the acceptable range- IIRC, it's a minimum of 30 pounds at key ON and idle and maybe 40 at WOT. I don't think it was more than a month ago that it was posted but I couldn't find it.

Matt L.
06-16-2011, 01:58 AM
These don't use a coil with a resistor and they don't need a resistor of any kind in the system. Doesn't mean the coil can't be bad, though.

Exactly, Pertronix has you bypass the resistor because the EI needs more voltage to operate properly. However, in my case I developed resistance due to corrosion at numerous points between the batts and the coil. In effect the corrosion introduced a "resistor" over time resulting in a runn situation as originally described at the start of this thread.

He's grabbing at straws, so I'm throwing something else out there to look at.

All he has to do is check the voltage at the coil. If it's low then he has a likely suspect.

Later,

Matt

TOO-TALL
06-16-2011, 07:22 PM
Dumb question......where is the coil on a MCX?

JimN
06-16-2011, 09:40 PM
Dumb question......where is the coil on a MCX?

It's right behind the plug wires, connected to the rear wire on the side with 5 wires.

Before you start replacing parts, take it in and have full diagnostics run. It will be faster, more accurate and it will keep you from replacing a truck full of parts before stumbling onto the real problem.

If you don't trust the nearest dealer, contact a member here with user name The Legend. He works in the Chicago area but he's good. Real good.

JimN
06-16-2011, 09:46 PM
I just pulled the codes from my '94 efi.

My dash light didn't flash with the paperclip in terminals A and B. But thanks to the world wide interweb, I discovered that you can put the wires ends from a 12v led light into terminals E and F and the light will flash with the codes.

So, what codes did you find?

TOO-TALL
06-17-2011, 11:43 PM
Well i replaced the plugs,plug wires,rotor and distributer cap.
Also rented a fuel pressure gauge from autozone.
Was on the water tonight for a test about 30-40 minutes on the water the sputtering and coughing returned.
Fuel pressure never droped below 40psi.When running at speed pressure was 40-50.
So motor is getting fuel.....must be a electrical.

Could it be the coil???

Looks like I'll be on the phone tommorow with mechanics instead of being on the water

thatsmrmastercraft
06-18-2011, 12:44 AM
Another thing to check is that the centrifugal weights are moving freely below the plate in the distributor. If they are hanging up, that will cause a problem. Usually a bad coil won't be intermittently bad, but it could be. For the price of a new coil, it's worth throwing one at it. There would never be a time where you regretted a new coil.

TOO-TALL
06-18-2011, 12:49 AM
Another thing to check is that the centrifugal weights are moving freely below the plate in the distributor. If they are hanging up, that will cause a problem. Usually a bad coil won't be intermittently bad, but it could be. For the price of a new coil, it's worth throwing one at it. There would never be a time where you regretted a new coil.

What would be the best way to check the centrifugal weights?

JimN
06-18-2011, 01:12 AM
Well i replaced the plugs,plug wires,rotor and distributer cap.
Also rented a fuel pressure gauge from autozone.
Was on the water tonight for a test about 30-40 minutes on the water the sputtering and coughing returned.
Fuel pressure never droped below 40psi.When running at speed pressure was 40-50.
So motor is getting fuel.....must be a electrical.

Could it be the coil???

Looks like I'll be on the phone tommorow with mechanics instead of being on the water

Your profile shows that you own a 2003 X2. What boat are you trying to repair? If it's a newer boat, it doesn't have centrifugal advance.

If you think it's electrical, you need to monitor the voltage at the pump and the resistance on the ground wire. I doubt it's electrical, other than possibly a bad ground at the rear of the motor.

Unless you can get a manual, you're not going to find the cause any time soon, unless by accident.

TOO-TALL
06-18-2011, 02:35 AM
Yes, its a 2003 x2(my boat) MCX motor.
I would think it is electrical because the fuel pressure gauge never changed always at 40-50 psi.If the pump was loseing power the pressure would reflect that.

JimN
06-18-2011, 11:13 AM
Yes, its a 2003 x2(my boat) MCX motor.
I would think it is electrical because the fuel pressure gauge never changed always at 40-50 psi.If the pump was loseing power the pressure would reflect that.

So, it didn't show any codes?

TOO-TALL
06-18-2011, 11:41 AM
No, I don't get any alarms or buzzers.

I don't have a code reader

JimN
06-18-2011, 12:15 PM
No, I don't get any alarms or buzzers.

I don't have a code reader

Can you post some photos of your engine, from various angles?

TOO-TALL
06-18-2011, 12:56 PM
Anything inpaticular??

JimN
06-18-2011, 01:42 PM
Anything inpaticular??

No, just some clear shots.

Make sure the knock sensor lead is well-seated and not corroded. Also, ask the tech of he checked that. A sensor that's too sensitive will result in retarded timing at higher RPM. If it's not reporting, it will cause other performance issues that may be similar.

TOO-TALL
06-26-2011, 09:44 PM
Well the boat spent a week at the dealership.
Dealer pluged his computer into the boat and no codes came up and no errors.

Picked the boat up went on the water today...set perfect pass at 23 and just drove around with no rider......same problems after 30 minuts motor starts missing(sounds like timing is off)
Went home checked wires at trans senser one wire just broke off. I hardley touched it.I thought there is the problem.
So I spliced the two wires togethor to bypass the senser.Went out and about 20 minutes into it motor starts missing again.

I have no idea what to do next?????

JimN
06-26-2011, 11:22 PM
Well the boat spent a week at the dealership.
Dealer pluged his computer into the boat and no codes came up and no errors.

Picked the boat up went on the water today...set perfect pass at 23 and just drove around with no rider......same problems after 30 minuts motor starts missing(sounds like timing is off)
Went home checked wires at trans senser one wire just broke off. I hardley touched it.I thought there is the problem.
So I spliced the two wires togethor to bypass the senser.Went out and about 20 minutes into it motor starts missing again.

I have no idea what to do next?????

I'd go back and ask if they have been trained by MC or Indmar. If they connected it to the diagnostic computer only to check for codes, they don't know what they're doing, didn't want to take the time to run diagnostics the way they should have or don't care about doing their jobs well. The wire would have been checked and repaired if they had known what to look for- the first things we were taught when troubleshooting were:

1) Verify the complaint. This means they needed to take it out to the water and run it the way you would.
2) Do a visual check. If there's no sign of corrosion or damage, do a wiggle test of the wires, plugs & harnesses and anything else that could affect performance.
3) Make any repairs needed. If something is still acting up, find that problem and fix it.
4) Verify the problems are gone and not intermittent.

The service manager needs to be brought into this and if he doesn't handle it, get upper management involved until they can find it in themselves to fix it the right way.

TOO-TALL
06-30-2011, 10:03 PM
Well spent the whole day at the MC dealer and doing laps on his private lake.

Went out and 30 minutes in boat starts missing.Dealer got his computer
He suggests to change complete full module assembly.I say I did that,but whatever go for it.we change it out and boat does same problem.
So now 1.5 into it we get a throttle position senser.....change it out. Same thing.
We drive around with the computer pluged into motor.Boat starts its missing and sputtering......NO CODES COME UP!...***!!!!!
We get on the phone to a indmar tech,try this........same thing,try this......same thing.
I had went to autozone a few days before and bought a complete distributer assembly for my motor.I said lets throw it in just to see.Put it in and set timng.

BOATS FIXED!!!!!.......Ran for an hour under load and seems to be good.

Thanks for the replys.

samasm
07-03-2011, 03:51 PM
BOATS FIXED!!!!!.......Ran for an hour under load and seems to be good.

Thanks for the replys.

Is it still fixed. I am having a problem with mine...I can rev it neutral; but underload, I cannot get above 2400 rpm... is this similar to what yours was doing - I also have an 03 mcx, but in an x30.

TOO-TALL
07-03-2011, 08:44 PM
Mine would run strong for about 30 minutes then it would start missing.