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View Full Version : Stereo makes battery alarm go off


djkslc
05-29-2011, 07:14 PM
if I run the stereo my battery warning buzzer goes off. I shut off the accessory switch that allows the stereo to work and the buzzer goes off. Bad battery, or something else? The stereo does run without the warning buzzer for a couple minutes after the boat is started. And no buzzer if the stereo is on and the boat is off.

Jerseydave
05-29-2011, 09:43 PM
Mine did that on my '03 Maristar when my battery was low. Amps draw a lot of power.

Re-charge your battery with a charger and load test it (or have it tested)
Maybe it's a little weak

djkslc
07-07-2011, 09:41 AM
I purchased a new battery and the alarm will still go off, not as frequently, but if I have my accessory 1 switch on that runs the stereo it will sound after about 15 minutes of stereo time even while the boat is running. I turn off accessory 1 and it will stop. I can run the stereo about 2 or 3 minutes later and it will go for about 15 minutes then back to the alarm. Any ideas?

krutzmart
07-07-2011, 10:42 AM
You have a combination of things working against you.

1- Your alternator can not keep up with the draw. Is it a 90 amp alteranor (stock) or have you upgraded it ?

2- You need more power supply. Batteries, in boat charger, ect. there is a great thread on duel isolation on here that goes into depth on power,sterio,batteries.

I have this problem now. I upgraded to a 140 amp alternator form DB ELECTRICAL and still have the problem when RPM's get below 1200. A guy in here bought a 200 amp for DB and says thats the answer. I waiting for mine to show up.

I am running 2 very large amps,alot of added pumps,lights,ect. Way to much draw for the 140amp at idle, not a 1200 rmp when it's really giving ya 140amps,but, not at idle.

The 200 amp charges like 120 amps at idle and 200 amps at 1200 rpms.

You can have the largest alternator but if you don't have good batteries ??????? your spinning your wheels

http://www.optimabatteries.com/home.php


These are great batteries, but like $175-200 per.

Jeff d
07-07-2011, 10:45 AM
Is it a 90 amp alteranor (stock) or have you upgraded it ?


Not necessarily 90. If he's got the LTR that was only a 51 amp.

krutzmart
07-07-2011, 11:19 AM
Your right, 51 or something, they also have a 70 on early 00's. Not gonna work huh ?

EarmarkMarine
07-07-2011, 12:36 PM
I agree with the above by fully charging and load testing the existing batteries. While a fully charged battery is an asset and will help stiffen the voltage there is nothing that is more of a liability to your charging system than a discharged battery or a battery that is used past its prime.
If you have a large stereo then you have to become more dependent on a suitable and powerful onboard charger for restoration and not a tender, maintenance or trickle model.
When looking at an upgrade alternator look closely at the power curve as some will deliver more or less current at lower rpms.
You can use a larger dedicated stereo battery bank that is isolated from the house/starter battery via a voltage sensing solenoid once the voltage drops past a certain threshold. This would completely eliminate the alarm. But once you have depleted the batteries in this case you are done for the day because there is little to no chance that the solenoid will ever re-combine with a large audio system and a small alternator.
You can't beat fullrange class D amplifiers as they draw 60 percent less current to produce the same output power. Also, system design and system tuning can easily have a two-fold impact on your current draw. I frequently see inherent system flaws that compound the voltage problems.

David
Earmark Marine

LakeLottawatta
07-07-2011, 01:05 PM
Your problem is likely related to the poor ground to the dash and light guage wire in the factory harness. I would run wiring directly from the battery (with inline fuse obviously), both positive and negative, directly to the stereo and eliminate the accessory switch from the loop.

cbryan70
07-07-2011, 01:20 PM
You have a combination of things working against you.

1- Your alternator can not keep up with the draw. Is it a 90 amp alteranor (stock) or have you upgraded it ?

2- You need more power supply. Batteries, in boat charger, ect. there is a great thread on duel isolation on here that goes into depth on power,sterio,batteries.

I have this problem now. I upgraded to a 140 amp alternator form DB ELECTRICAL and still have the problem when RPM's get below 1200. A guy in here bought a 200 amp for DB and says thats the answer. I waiting for mine to show up.

I am running 2 very large amps,alot of added pumps,lights,ect. Way to much draw for the 140amp at idle, not a 1200 rmp when it's really giving ya 140amps,but, not at idle.

The 200 amp charges like 120 amps at idle and 200 amps at 1200 rpms.

You can have the largest alternator but if you don't have good batteries ??????? your spinning your wheels

http://www.optimabatteries.com/home.php


These are great batteries, but like $175-200 per.

Just wanted to throw it out there that there are much better batteries with much higher reserves then the optima's......Most normal AGM batteries will blow optima's out of the water. Look at what tournament fisherman use for their trolling motor batteries...that will give you an idea of what is best. Heck most lead acid batteries will perform better, they will just not give you the years of performance that optima's are suppose to give when maintained perfectly.