View Full Version : Isolator install

05-24-2011, 01:53 PM
So im a bit confused on the "true ignition source" part of the diagram...


Where would i run this from?

Also, can i just ground all the batteries together so basically:

Main Battery -> grounded to boat
Aux Battery -> grounded to main battery 2nd post
Isolator ground -> grounded to main battery 2nd post

05-24-2011, 02:22 PM
a "true ignition source" is generally a lead that is hot when the ignition is on in the ON position and START position; not the ACC position. i personally would not want the solenoid closed in the crank position....it's heavy draw could damage some sensitive electronics powered by the house battery. my blue seas ACR actually opens during cranking to prevent this. being that the stinger is a mechanical solenoid, it is probably recommended this way to prevent mutiple and repeated opening and closing....it has a finite life.

for grounding, i would not run the house battery ground to the crank battery ground then to the block. they both should be grounded to the engine block. if you really wanted to ground the house to the crank (not recommended), i would suggest you upgrade the OEM ground to a a larger gauge.

05-24-2011, 02:27 PM
What robin said on hte grounding.
I beieve you want the ignition trigger wire for the relay hooked to the hot wire in the RUN position only. START position will combine the batteries during cranking, but yopu only want them combined for charging purposes when the engine is already running.

05-24-2011, 02:27 PM
How would you wire a 3 battery set up with an isolator? .. I have 2 cranking batteries and one deep cell battery that I will wire in parallel. I want to put the isolator between the 2nd cranking battery and the deep cell battery. Also where would you wire the ignition on the isolator.. Kinda confused about this.. Is it necessary ? Where do you run it from?

05-24-2011, 03:39 PM
Just spoke with the guy at stinger, and like you guys said, the "true" ignition is something that remains on during cranking. So my theory of using the remote wire will not work, as the radio turns off during cranking... So where do i find a true ignition source?

Also, so for the grounding, coming from the block is 0/1 guage, so I cant go any bigger than that. The guy at stinger said to run the recommended ground size wire for my amps (4guage) to the Aux battery, and then go from the aux battery to the main battery with 0/1 gauge.

05-24-2011, 09:08 PM
If I was installing the stinger, i would wire it the "ON /RUN" position on my ignition. this would close the circuit when the ignition is in the ON position. this is when you want it closed; when the engine is running (charging). its been a year since i looked at my ignition wiring, but i think this is an true ignition...it stays on in ON and START.

05-25-2011, 01:05 AM
That sounds right.

Another thing which i found a bit funny, according to stinger im gonna be running 3x 150amp breakers and 1x 50 amp? Is that overkill?

(4) JL m770
(1) JL 10" marine sub
(1) WetSound Pro 485

(1) Wetsound Syn 6 (4x30amp fuses on the amp)
(1) Sony 4 channel amp (recommends 1x 50amp on the power line)

As for fusing, i was told to run 1x 10amp fuse on the "true ignition wire"
150amp breaker on each of the red cables going to the stinger
150 amp breaker between the red from the battery and the Wetsound Syn 6 amp
50 amp breaker on between the red from the battery and the Sony Amp

Thats 4 breakers? This is getting expensive haha

05-25-2011, 01:12 AM

here is what we built so far, it is a fiberglass pannel about 1/4" thick which rest on the ground and is screwed into the left side of the X1's passenger compartment. We screwed posts in which will have 1 inch rubber feet to hold the Syn 6 amp slightly above it. On the bottom you can see the Stinger isolator, and 2 of the 4 breakers.



05-25-2011, 09:07 AM
anyone? before i buy another $100 in breakers...

05-25-2011, 10:51 AM
can i run the "true ignition wire" post back to the alternator?

05-25-2011, 01:31 PM
the number of fuse block / circuit breakers sounds right:
1) between house battery and stinger (as close to battery as possible)
2) between cranking battery and stinger (as close to battery as possible)
3,4) for each amp (as close to battery as possible)
5) small fuse / breaker for your ignition /remote wire (as close as possible to where you tap)

05-25-2011, 01:35 PM
as far a running the true ignition wire to the alternator; you could technically run it to where ever you get 12v+ when the engine is in the RUN/ ON position, but not a constant ON......wouldnt know about the alternator, as i wtent right to the ignition switch, as it as the closest / easiest for my install.

05-25-2011, 02:21 PM
wait, so im not looking for a constant on?

Then wouldnt a standard 12v remote on wire (from the headunit) be fine?

05-25-2011, 02:23 PM
the guy from stinger said i would have wanted a constant on 12v wire?

05-25-2011, 07:38 PM
A constant ON on your TRUE IGNITION SOURCE wire would leave your stinger closed all the time...defeating its purpose....

05-25-2011, 07:42 PM
You want it open (batteries seperated) when your boat is off (ignition in OFF) position, and closed (engine running) in ON position.

05-25-2011, 08:04 PM
thats what ive been reading, on a lot of caraudio forums. thanks for the help!

05-26-2011, 04:38 AM
Also, you can use fuses instead of breakers, less money and they never should blow unless you have a live short in one of the cables.

05-26-2011, 09:16 AM
Also, you can use fuses instead of breakers, less money and they never should blow unless you have a live short in one of the cables.

The nice thing about the breakers is i can just pop the ones going from the amps to the battery when i leave the boat. Ive notice that even with the boat off there is still some current running through the wires and with the moisture it's cause an amp to die. I feel safer with the breakers, and i already have 2 of them at this point. I might as well get 2 more and attach them to the amp rack and keep things matching.

06-05-2011, 04:07 PM
I just looked at my ignition switch. If yours is the same as mine, you should wire your stingers true ignition to the terminal labeled IGN ....it has one purple wire on it already. I think mastercraft has been standard with the purple wire over the years.