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View Full Version : Linking Negative Terminals?????


jdeml
05-10-2011, 07:21 PM
66468

Sooooo heres the deal. This is how I tried to hook my batteries back up only to find thatThe deepcylces provide power to the dash and the crank does not (well very weakly) My question is should I have a negative linking the set of deep cycles to the crank batt? And then from there to the engine block? Need a little help as most topics dont cover 3 batteries and with just a perko. Thanks

jdeml
05-10-2011, 07:24 PM
66469

This one should work sorry.

Thrall
05-10-2011, 08:11 PM
You have nothing grounding the house batteries or the dash right now per your dwg. The neg to the dash is grounded through the start battery and then back to the engine block in original configuration (newer boat I presume).
If you run a wire from the neg terminal in your dwg (I assume that's an add on terminal lug or dist block) to the block that should solve all your problems.
Don't try to ground all 3 batteries and the dash components through 1 wire to the engine. With all that stuff hooked up, I'd run another big 0ga back to the engine along with the one that is in place already.
Here's a site that will help with figuring load and current draw, stereos, etc.
www.bcae1.com

jdeml
05-10-2011, 10:08 PM
OK It all works now. Heres what I did, Thrall please tell me Im right. All batteries ground together, crank wired to batt1 position. deep cycles linked parrallel and to batt2 position. . From crank batt I ran a negative to block (originally there). On deepcycle I ran a negative to negative screw/junction and from there a negative to dash. All 2 gauge. Before the crank battery was grounded at block and barely showing 8 volts at switch. Now showing 12.5. I really pray this is it.

jdeml
05-11-2011, 01:17 AM
anyone? anyone?

BNIROOSTER
05-11-2011, 06:51 AM
You can ground all the neg. terminals of all the batteries together or just run another 0-2 awg to the block from the deep cycles. I would move the inst. wire to the cranking battery and only run the stereo off the deep cycles.

Table Rocker
05-11-2011, 10:06 AM
How are you charging the deep cycle batteries? The only way to charge them with the alternator is to have them grounded to the common ground (usually the block or grounding bar and then the block). I agree with BNIRooster in that I would want everything except the stereo and accent lights (if you have them) on the cranking battery.

Thrall
05-11-2011, 10:56 AM
I'm not following you completelty, another dwg would help. If it works, it's definately better, but still may not be right.
Basic concept is to have a clean ground path for all sources (batteries) and loads (stereo amps, wires/bus bar under dash, etc).

jdeml
05-11-2011, 05:00 PM
66496

Ok the yellow negative is what I added to make it all work. Is this correct. All wires are 2 gauge. I plan on moving the negative from the dash to the crank battery. Like everyone suggests. Also I plan on wiring all amps to deep cylces (+ and -) with all the batteries negatives linked and negative 2 gauge running from crank to engine block. does it matter which bank to run the negative to the engine block since they are all grounded together? Thanks everyone.

jdeml
05-11-2011, 05:02 PM
I also have an isolator wired in but didnt want to jumble the drawing with too much stuff. I have 4 gauge from alternator to isolator and wires from that going to positive batt1 and pos batt2 terminals on switch so It will charge both banks. I plan on charging deep cycles at the end of the day also to help.

BNIROOSTER
05-11-2011, 05:05 PM
No it doesn't matter. If you have the extra 2 gauge I would ground both banks to the block to reduce engine noise into the stereo.

jdeml
05-11-2011, 05:06 PM
How are you charging the deep cycle batteries? The only way to charge them with the alternator is to have them grounded to the common ground (usually the block or grounding bar and then the block). I agree with BNIRooster in that I would want everything except the stereo and accent lights (if you have them) on the cranking battery.

So your saying I sould take the positive from the dash and wire directly to crank? If thats the case Id have to run all new wire since this is just long enough to make it to the switch and was how it was set up before.

jdeml
05-11-2011, 05:09 PM
No it doesn't matter. If you have the extra 2 gauge I would ground both banks to the block to reduce engine noise into the stereo.

So I should keep the setup like it is from the drawing and then just run another 2 gauge from negative deep cycles to the same spot on the block that the crank is grounded at?

BNIROOSTER
05-11-2011, 05:15 PM
yes, that will work fine. what guage is the dash lead? can you add some length to it via 2 guage connector?

Sorry, went back and looked at your drawing, just move the ground for the dash to the cranking batt. The common on the perko is fine for the hot lead.

jdeml
05-11-2011, 05:42 PM
yes, that will work fine. what guage is the dash lead? can you add some length to it via 2 guage connector?

Sorry, went back and looked at your drawing, just move the ground for the dash to the cranking batt. The common on the perko is fine for the hot lead.

Ok going to move the ground from the dash to crank batt. Well I will once this dang rain stops!!! Finally getting somewhere thanks to everyone and the weather has other plans. Should I still run a ground from the deep cycles to block? I can make that happen if it needs to be done just let me know!!

BNIROOSTER
05-11-2011, 05:44 PM
Yes, I would. I tried my to just use the one ground on mine and my HO alt cause noise in my system so I added a ground from the #2 battery bank to the block and wala, no more noise!

Thrall
05-11-2011, 05:52 PM
Yes, I would. I tried my to just use the one ground on mine and my HO alt cause noise in my system so I added a ground from the #2 battery bank to the block and wala, no more noise!

Yup. A ground loop is what causes the noise and it occurs when multiple loads have a significant difference in resistance and the current is trying to take the path of least resistance. Easiset way to combat this is make sure ALL grounds have little to no resistance, hence adding and additional large guage ground. RIght now you have the entire boat, dash, amps, stereo, batteries, other accessories all grounded through 1 - 2ga wire.

If your batteries are getting cluttered with connections and hard to match up other connections, consider installing some distribution blocks to clean up and "organize" the wiring, something like this. One set is for the house loads (stereo/amps), the other set is for all the other boat functions (start, dash, heater, etc).

Now the batteries each ahve one wire per terminal and when I get around to it, I can build a little carpeted cover for the wiring.

BNIROOSTER
05-11-2011, 05:56 PM
Yup. A ground loop is what causes the noise and it occurs when multiple loads have a significant difference in resistance and the current is trying to take the path of least resistance. Easiset way to combat this is make sure ALL grounds have little to no resistance, hence adding and additional large guage ground. RIght now you have the entire boat, dash, amps, stereo, batteries, other accessories all grounded through 1 - 2ga wire.

If your batteries are getting cluttered with connections and hard to match up other connections, consider installing some distribution blocks to clean up and "organize" the wiring, something like this. One set is for the house loads (stereo/amps), the other set is for all the other boat functions (start, dash, heater, etc).

Now the batteries each ahve one wire per terminal and when I get around to it, I can build a little carpeted cover for the wiring.

I concur....wish my wiring was that clean! Is hard to hide distribution blocks, caps, and wiring for 6 amps! lol

jdeml
05-11-2011, 06:07 PM
Yall are the best. Thanks so much. Ill just ground out the deep cycles to block with another 2 gauge and thatll be that! So now on the the amps and stereo. Hope yall are around when I tackle that! hahah.

Thrall
05-11-2011, 06:58 PM
I concur....wish my wiring was that clean! Is hard to hide distribution blocks, caps, and wiring for 6 amps! lol

That's just 3 amps, 2 batteries, ACR and all of the OE boat stuff. One of these days I'll make a cover for it, but it don't look bad compared to the rats nest that was hooked to the battery when I bought it.