View Full Version : Wet Sanding
04-27-2011, 03:35 PM
Hey I am about to wet sand my S&S. Should I go in a circular motion when doing this? Or can you go up and down or side to side?
04-27-2011, 04:10 PM
Go one direction then when you move to the next finer grit paper do the opposite. Easier to see when you have removed all of the previous grit scratches that way.
04-30-2011, 09:16 AM
A circular motion will also make it more difficult to buff out with a circular polisher. At least this was my experience when doing mine.:o
05-02-2011, 12:40 PM
Thanks guys. I wet sanded one side of the boat over the weekend with 800 grit. It was milky looking. What is this? Also how do I know how much to sand? I got it smooth again and am going to hit a sextion with the compound and buffer. I was going to also hit it with 1000 grit. Should I go up to 1500 before I start to buff?
05-02-2011, 01:10 PM
Sand it out with 1000 grit first then hit it with some 3M Heavy Duty Compound on a wool pad. The compound will take out the 1000 grit scratches but not 800. Compound will also leave it looking a bit hazy. Follow the compound with 3M Finesse-It-II polishing compound to bring back all of the shine.
05-02-2011, 01:42 PM
What Brian said. Here is this weekends results. I however did not need to polish, I was able to go right from compound to wax. Did a section with polish and without and could not find a difference. Pink is now red and the decal remnants are gone.
05-02-2011, 01:59 PM
Thanks, Also I am seeing some silver flakes behind the gel.
05-02-2011, 02:39 PM
If you are getting into the actual silver flecks you have sanded too far. The metal flake has a clear gel over the top. You do not want to sand all the way through it.
05-02-2011, 03:08 PM
I am seeing this all over the boat. I only sanded one side. I guess my gell is gone or thin, and the sun has faded the paint of the flakes maybe.
05-02-2011, 03:18 PM
05-02-2011, 03:37 PM
Here are some pics.
05-02-2011, 03:38 PM
Is that after sanding or before?
05-02-2011, 03:42 PM
That was before.
05-02-2011, 04:22 PM
Do post the afters ;-) I'd like to see what you are referring to in the thread above
05-02-2011, 04:59 PM
I used a little trick I am very proud of
to keep my sandpaper wet at all times, I used a "water spigot" designed for those old "swamp cooler fans" with an outlet valve for a 1/4 inch poly tubing....
left the red handle closed, and opened the 1/4 inch valve and controlled the flow of water to a small stream
I held it over my paper and sanded in one direction at all times
no dipping into the bucket for me;)
this image does not have the 1/4 valve installed
05-02-2011, 05:04 PM
I am using a spray bottle with soap in it.
05-02-2011, 05:24 PM
If that is before I would not have sanded. Just a good compounding followed by a polish would bring that back.
05-02-2011, 06:06 PM
Well I already sanded one side because it was so rough. I didnt sand it very much. Just enough to smooth it out some. It was pretty rought. I just compounded that side as well and it looks good. I can live with it. I know im not going to get the color i see under the platform or under the bow. But this is going to look good I hope. That Finesse it II is high dollar stuff by the way. I am following your steps and thanks for the help. I will post pics as I progress.
05-02-2011, 08:23 PM
Don't be afraid to compound it multiple times. If it is bad compound twice. Then polish.
05-03-2011, 10:43 AM
Here is after 2 passes with the compound. I see a huge difference. I am guessing the Finesse it will bring it out even more and some wax.
05-03-2011, 12:25 PM
Would it be good and ok to go over it 3 times with the compound?
05-03-2011, 12:27 PM
Also Bryan, what do you recomend for the textured surface on the top of the boat?
05-03-2011, 12:28 PM
That is looking good. I say if you have some bad spots no problem compounding more. The Finesse It is really going to bring back the shine as the compound leaves the gel a bit hazy.
As for the textured surface on top that stuff is a pain but you can still compound and polish you just really have to work it in different directions to get around all of the texture.
05-03-2011, 01:31 PM
I also have some 3m imperial hand glaze. Could this be used anywhere in the steps?
05-03-2011, 02:06 PM
I also have some 3m imperial hand glaze. Could this be used anywhere in the steps?
I'm not familiar with it.
05-03-2011, 07:02 PM
Whats a good wax to use. I have some mothers marine wax and cleaner. Should I get something else?
05-03-2011, 11:17 PM
Any good carnuba wax will do the trick. After polishing I would not use a cleaner wax.
05-04-2011, 11:00 AM
Here is after 2 passes with compound and 1 pass with the Finesse it in just the back right area only with the polish. What do you think? Man that Finesse it is a little more time consumming as it likes to stay wet longer. I have a 12 dollar foam pad from the parts store. Is this ok to use or should I buy a 3m pad?
05-04-2011, 05:03 PM
You need a wool pad, you will be amazed at how fast it cuts compared to the foam. Foam will not do what you are looking for...
The wool will take you from this...
To this with some time and effort, clean that pad ALOT between passes...
Be patient it will come back, and please when you get the look you want immediately seal the area with wax to prevent your newly exposed area from oxidizing again.
05-04-2011, 06:51 PM
I used a wool pad with the 3m compound. Are you saying use wool with the finesse it as well? Mine is pretty bad. I compounded it 2 times and I am going to start polishing with a foam pad and finesse it II.
05-04-2011, 07:06 PM
I use the same wool pad for compound and finesse it II. Just use a screwdriver and few RPM's to remove dried, old product. IMO foam pad is better using Finesse it II, though! Sometimes the wool pad and Finesse it II can leave swirl marks :(
A product I really like is Meguiars compound #105. It is awesome, like compound and finesse it II in one! 3M compound cuts better. 3M might be better for your application!?!!!!
05-04-2011, 10:34 PM
^agreed...Meguiars #105 cut compound works sweet on gel-coat...a foam pad will be cleaner to buff with. less dust and no wool fibers flying around making a dusty mess
05-05-2011, 09:40 PM
Yeah I dont think mine is going to come back to a good shine. The gell is pretty much gone on the sides. The bow looks awesome though.The previous owners neglected to wax and take care of such a buet. I will post some final pics this weekend. Thanks for all the tips guys.
05-16-2011, 12:46 PM
Lots of work but worth it. It could still look better I think.
05-16-2011, 12:53 PM
Any bigger pics?
05-24-2011, 05:20 PM
Anyone had any trouble with the 3M finesse it polish getting into pits. I have alot of white polish left in little pits, chips, dings. What can be used to clean this off? I have already waxed the boat and have it on the lift.
02-01-2013, 03:38 PM
Here is what im starting with. I read most of the threads on this subject but still always can use more info.. 1985 has 370 hours been under dock its whole life but subjected to florida sun.. sorry about the bad pic ... Sides are kinda chalky to the touch going to start buffing and polishing .. What Would everyones opinions be for first steps and products to get going with ? because everyones finishes starting out are different.
02-01-2013, 05:03 PM
Hit it with the Heavy Duty compound first. That doesn't look to bad to me. High quality wool pad with a circular polisher. The compound will leave it a bit hazy but you should be able to tell if it is going to give you results you need.
If you have some bad areas 1000 wet sand in one direction then compound.
If you have some scratches 600 wet sand then 1000 then compound.
The 3M Super Duty compound will remove 1000 grit scratches so no need to wet sand finer than that.
I have done some nasty oxidized boats and only needed a couple of passes with the compound to bring them back.
Follow up with some Finesse It II polish then your favorite carnuba wax.
02-01-2013, 05:29 PM
Perfect thanks ... can you send the link to the orbiter you use found it once but lost the thread..
02-02-2013, 03:29 PM
I personally have a Makita BO6040. It is a random orbit and also has a forced circular mode. Great machine for projects like this which require more than just a random orbit machine.