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palmball34
04-24-2011, 10:40 PM
Hey everyone, long time lurker first time poster. I have been having an issue with my 1992 Prostar 190 that finally left me stranded and had to be towed in today. Here is the problem. When the boat is running I hear a beep that sounds like it is coming from the ignition then the boat cuts off. Sometimes when I turn the key to restart the boat it fires right up and other times I turn the key and there is nothing, engine doesn't crank or anything, just dead. The gages still respond on the dash but nothing with the engine. Usually if I wait a few minutes and turn the key again and the engine will turn over and fire right up. Today the engine cut off like this a dozen times or so and finally the last time it cut off I couldn't get it started again. There doesn't seem to be a reason why it cuts off, it will do it one time while at idle and then again another time rolling at full throttle. It seems like it could be an electrical issue, like something is shorting out but I don't know.

I bought the boat last summer and it only has 91 hours on the original engine. It has had regular maintenance as scheduled and has been taken care of just not had a lot of use. I am not very mechanically inclined but I am trying to learn as much as I can to do as much work on the boat myself as I can. Has anyone had an issue like this before or have any idea what the problem is? Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated. Please keep in mind that I don't know a ton about how everything works, so the more specifics/details you could provide would be helpful, Thanks!

jconover
04-24-2011, 10:59 PM
Any additional info? Are you watching the temperature gauge? Any water in the bilge? My first thought would be that the engine is running hot and cutting out, safety override.

palmball34
04-24-2011, 11:24 PM
Temp is running at 140-150 and there is no water in the bilge, it stays pretty dry.

Last summer I would have this problem maybe once at most twice during a day on the water. Today it did it a lot more than normal. Today was the first time I had it out this year. It started up fine and I let it run in idle for a while and started having the cut off problem once I put it in gear and actually started moving.

Jerseydave
04-25-2011, 11:28 AM
Check all your ground connections at the battery and engine block. There should be some ground wires connected to a main ground block, maybe under the dash so check them too.
Also check your main harness connector at the engine, give it a wiggle test while engine is running at idle.

Don't forget the wires at alternator, make sure they are tight also. Also check the wiring that plugs into the fuel pump at top of fuel tank. (if yours has an elec fuel pump)

A good wiggle test of various wires while engine is running is a good thing to do.

JLeuck64
04-25-2011, 12:01 PM
Might be worth it to spend some time lurking under the dash looking at all the electrical connections. Ign key switch etc... in addition to what was previously mentioned above. Shorts cause fuses to blow and circuit breakers to trip. Loose connections cause opens which behave just like what you are describing.

flipper
04-25-2011, 12:19 PM
Kill switch?

rem_pss308
04-25-2011, 02:13 PM
Being as it is before the computers with the fuel injection, I would guess watch the heat gauge. it could be going into lip mode.

and yes check all your connections. ( at the block, the batteries, and under the dash )

190 Skier
04-25-2011, 03:54 PM
I have a '90 Prostar 190 and had a similar issue quite a while ago where it would run great then cut out and quit for no apparent reason. Being intermittent made it tough to diagnose. As I went thru the ignition system I started replacing items, and it turned out to be a short inside my coil. I replaced it over 10 years ago and the boat has run like a top ever since. Something for you to look atů

thatsmrmastercraft
04-25-2011, 05:11 PM
I have a '90 Prostar 190 and had a similar issue quite a while ago where it would run great then cut out and quit for no apparent reason. Being intermittent made it tough to diagnose. As I went thru the ignition system I started replacing items, and it turned out to be a short inside my coil. I replaced it over 10 years ago and the boat has run like a top ever since. Something for you to look atů

That is a rare one.

palmball34
04-26-2011, 08:15 PM
Thanks for the responses. I will take a look at all the connections and watch the temp. I am just hoping that it is a minor issue and not something that is going to be a bunch of $$$$

Thrall
04-27-2011, 12:56 AM
If the boat runs fine otherwise, it is not a major issue. Probably a short somewhere. Not too familiar with the PCM carbed setups to know if they have any elect overrrides like limp mode, doubt they do.
Have you checked the kill switch? It should be a normally closed switch that opens when the lanyard is pulled. You can ck continuity across the switch poles with an ohm meter, but easiset way is bypass it by connecting the 2 wires and see if its the kill switch.
Most elect shorts are exaggerated by vibration, so you have to do it on the lake, not in the driveway.

Jeff d
04-27-2011, 10:37 AM
I'm hung up on the beep as it shuts down. Is it normal for it to beep if you turn it off with the key or pull the kill switch? Is it just a quick beep or a long one? Does it beep before, after or during the engine shutdown?

I don't have a ton of boat specific electrical experience but In my mind the beep may support the bad electrical connection theories that other posters have been throwing out there. Most low voltage alarms, especially on older boats, are just a little inline box somewhere under the dash. It's not tied into the ignition module or anything. If it sees lower than the specified voltage it beeps, at least until it no longer has enough power to beep.

So, could you have a loose/bad ground somewhere major? And at random intervals it decides to provide a bunch of resistance and/or becomes completely open, low voltage alarm has just enough time to beep for a second before everything shuts down.

Anyway, I would be sure to remove, clean and re-tighten the main ground where it attaches to the engine block as well as the one that goes to the grounding block under the dash. Might as well do the same for the main positive cable where it attaches to the starter and the one that goes to the ignition switch under the dash.

saberworks
04-27-2011, 01:36 PM
As others have said check and recheck your battery connections. I had a similar problem on my prostar (89, though) and it turned out that the positive battery connection just wasn't on tight enough. It had this weird lever tightener instead of a typical bolt/nut. Also look for corrosion. Even if it doesn't look corroded clean it with a battery terminal brush (a few dollars at an auto parts store) until it looks shiny and do the same to the inside of the connectors on the wire sides.

beautiful breeze
04-28-2011, 11:36 PM
try checking the coil. see if it is bloated. the bottom should be perfectly flat. and sides should have perfectly striaght lines. should be located somewhere in the engine valley on top of the intake manifold. if it is bloated, replaced it. good luck