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jconover
04-17-2011, 06:19 PM
Bought my boat last year and got it running in the early summer.
(See http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=36470z) for pitchers and engine discussion.

Decided to make some improvements this year. Wife bought me a ND tower for christmas, boat needs new carpet, and, well - there's this whole story about the prior owner and the cheap-a$$ single stage paint that he used to paint the upper third of the hull.

So let's start the story off:
Step 1, drill out the rivets, and pull the top. Stupid PO used silicone all around the hull seam, and he did a half-a$$ job of it too. Silicone sticking out, rubbed along the lower edge of the hull, looked like crap. Was even harder to get apart.

jconover
04-17-2011, 06:37 PM
I figure splitting it in half will make it a lot easier to glass in the tower supports, plus I can do the carpet up righteous. The last carpet job was so bad, it was just hanging in the boat (see pitchers!)

Now for the fun part: the painted hull. The prior owner had painted the upper half of the boat with a single stage blue paint. Paint was in pretty shabby condition, and there was some minor hull damage as well. So... off comes the paint. I started with a DA sander at 320 grit... that was no fun. After about 2 square feet I got to some of the decals. I broke out the heat gun and discovered that it took off the decals and softened the cheap-a$$ paint to the point where i could scrape it off with a scraper.

As of this weekend, i've got the transom done, and the port side paint is completely scraped off. There are a bunch of chips in the gelcoat, which I'm noodling over how to repair, and one small impact mark where something hit the boat. I'm going to post some pictures of those bits and ask for advice - gelcoat repair is not something i've done before, but i'm willing to learn.

Anyways -back to the paint removal. After stripping the paint, I started on the transom with 400 grid wetsand, then 600, then 800, then 1000, and finally i put some 1500 unigrit on the DA and used that to do some finish sanding on the gelcoat. Tons of blue paint came with the 400 grit. Wish I hadn't tried the DA with 320 on the paint, it made a mess of the gelcoat underneath (lots of swirls). Fortunately, only a few feet of transom got the DA sander, so just a little more elbow grease to clean that up.

So after taking off just about 2 sq feet of paint, I got out the polisher and hit it with some meguires 49 to see what the finish would look like. The hull below you can see i polished from the waterline to about half way up; the other half is all scratchy (so you can see what it looked like prior to starting).

It polishes up to a nice shine, but i still have a lot of fine scratch marks in the finish - they run left to right, meaning they came from my wet sanding - either i didn't spend enough time with the finer grits, or this is something that i should deal with in the polishing phase.

Those of you familiar with wetsand-compound-polish - at what point do the sanding scratches disappear from the finish?

jconover
04-17-2011, 06:41 PM
After scraping the rest of the transom, i took to wetsanding - things worked much better here, but i'm still getting some scratch marks. Also, now i'm finding the little chips and dings which the prior owner hid with the paint. We'll get to gelcoat repair in a few days, after the paint is all removed. I'm still hemming and hawing about pulling the engine and flipping the hull over so that I can get at the bottom of the boat - i guess i could untrailer it and crawl under too, but that sounds icky.

jconover
04-17-2011, 06:45 PM
Also got the carpet out and cleaned up the floor so that it's clean and workable. You can see what the paint scraping looks like before i start sanding

jconover
04-17-2011, 06:48 PM
Started sanding down the port side of the boat today. Started with 600 grit this time, since the scraping really cut down on the difficulty of working through the paint. Got down to the logo and worked that off with some WD-40.

There's some yellowing near the logo; i've sanded it fairly aggressively, but it seems to be in the gelcoat, not just on the surface. Any suggestions?

Dino Don
04-17-2011, 06:59 PM
I used some PPG 2 part material to re-do the stripe (one between hull color and upper color)on mine many years ago and it is still great today--amazed me it hasn't come loose--
You can re-do the gel coat but you would need to pull engine and turn it upside down to do it right I would think. If the boat has many hours on it you might think about doing it all???? Looking at the rest do you think it was taken care of mechanically?

My 2 cents--

jconover
04-17-2011, 07:30 PM
Mechanically - see this thread: http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=36470
When I got it, the #1 cylinder had a cracked valve. I rebuilt the entire top end of the motor, and I also did some local homework and found the original purchaser/owner. This boat is somewhat a specialty item - it was a custom order from MC with a 454 (they made 11 boats with that engine in '88) - and it has a custom pylon for tournament pulling - I found some old photos of the ski team pulling 28 skiers for a big pyramid. The engine was completely rebuilt top to bottom at 450 hours. It has 900 now, and freshly rebuilt heads.
I spent last summer dialing in the carb and the idle, got it to the point where I could start it with the twitch of the key. I have only two mechanical complaints at this point - one is that it gets tempermental at wakeboarding speeds (engine starts to miss after about 2 minutes - i have some ideas on how to fix that, starting with a higher quality coil, and ending with me fiddling with the carb floats again). the other is a ground issue - which I think i finally found when I pulled the hull apart - my ground line had a big gash in it, which the prior owner repaired with electrical tape. I'm hoping that problem goes away with the installation of a nice shiny new 2/0 ground lead.

johnlanguab
04-17-2011, 08:27 PM
I enjoyed reading your rebuild of the 454. You are way more adventurous that I am! The pictures of the separated hull scared the crap out of me!

03geetee
04-17-2011, 11:07 PM
Holy ****!

JTR

gotta_ski
04-18-2011, 04:43 PM
Well no one can accuse you of only doing things halfway. Like john above, separating the hull would scare the crap out of me. I'm with you on wanting to do it the right way the first time. After all this you're going to have a great boat that you won't have to wonder about. Its great to see a MC that wasn't treated well being brought back to life like this. Keep it up!

Was the hull top and bottom bonded together somehow, or just riveted together?

jconover
04-18-2011, 05:23 PM
Supposed to just be riveted together. Based on my own scraping and cleaning, I think there may have been a thin bead of better quality sealant applied at the factory right before they set the top on the bottom, but it was only on the outside facing edges.

Prior owner applied liberal (sloppy) amounts of a clear silicone adhesive. It was total, utter crap.

89BigBlock
04-19-2011, 12:55 PM
Wow! big props to you sir! I have an 89', same color, same motor.

Q: How difficult was it to get the exhaust out? From you pics and what I've seen on mine, it looks like just the four screws in the transom and dissconnecting the rubber. I'm assuming the beauty ring is also siliconed on.

jconover
04-19-2011, 01:01 PM
Inside - one clamp on each 4" exhaust vent, hose was stuck on pretty good, but nothing that a few grunts couldn't take care of.

Outside - 6 screws on the 4" exhaust, and it was adhered to the boat with whatever strong sealant they used in 1988 - it was NOT just silicone, but a hybrid silicone-epoxy type substance. I used a razorblade and a scraper to cut down next to the exhaust ports and crack some of the material. It actually came away from the metal easier than the gelcoat. Took me maybe 45 minutes per exhaust port to separate the through-hulls from the hull. Once I had it sufficiently loosened up, a rubber mallet applied from the inside allowed me to push it out the rest of the way.

jconover
04-24-2011, 07:16 PM
Was a good weekend to get some work done. Got all the paint sanded off, and started working on bringing the finish back up on the hull

This is after wetsanding 600 grid (to get the paint off), 800 grit (to get rid of the 600 grit scratches), and compound buffing with 3M Imperial Compounding and Finishing Material.

Still need to finish polish with something finer, but it came up pretty sharp!

Before and after - caught the kids in the reflection too ;-)

SPSinclair 190
04-24-2011, 07:54 PM
Looking awsome

woobiedmd
05-14-2011, 09:33 AM
We need an update! More pix! By the way, it looks great so far! You are very brave to go this far. Keep going- the weather is warming up!

03geetee
05-14-2011, 12:26 PM
Great work brother that is inspiring!

JTR

Hoosier Bob
05-14-2011, 01:08 PM
Very cool for sure. I used stainless bolts and locknuts to reaffix my deck. Pain but tight as a drum. Oh, if you hit something rivets pop, bolts don't so don't hit anything.:D

jconover
05-15-2011, 01:45 AM
Pieces parts are at the powdercoating place - when I stripped the starboard side of the boat I found some fairly major gelcoat damage - decided to take it to a local pro to do that work - the gelcoat bubbled when i put the heat gun on it (i'm guessing water got behind it). Work should be finished next friday - they've been working on getting a good color match, turns out that's a bit touchy on the black and gray.

I have a huge list of things to do when I get the hull back - starting with mounting the NDT tower and installing the new stereo from Earmark, plus of course reinstaling all the hardware. Will post more pics when I get her back.

jconover
06-01-2011, 03:30 AM
Some metal bits from the boat, back from a quick Aluminum Oxide blasting.

jconover
06-01-2011, 03:32 AM
Rebuilt the wooden bits of the interior. Here's the back seat

jconover
06-01-2011, 03:34 AM
Here's the combing pads

jconover
06-01-2011, 03:35 AM
Miscellaneous Seat parts

rjracin240
06-01-2011, 06:06 AM
Thanks for the detailed pictures of the interrior, when time becomes available intend on redoing my interior as well. These pictures definitely are a big help

supturb89
06-02-2011, 10:30 AM
Can't wait to see the finished product. Excellent work so far!!

DemolitionMan
06-02-2011, 10:40 AM
That is a lot of detail in the interior.

SkiDog
06-02-2011, 10:58 AM
That is a lot of detail in the interior.

Its also a lota WORK!

87MCProstar
06-02-2011, 11:52 AM
I'm kinda of curious what the ski lockers are going to look like in boat...being there are stained wood. Looks great!

jconover
06-02-2011, 12:18 PM
Those are combing pads - they will be vinyl covered - they aren't actually stained, that is a pourous wood sealant - to stop them from warping over time from moisture absorption. After talking with some plywood pros, I learned that "marine grade plywood" was really nothing more than AC exterior grade that is voidless. I did a lot of searching about the best wood to replace the old, mostly rotten wood that was in the boat, and this is what I ended up with. I used 1/2" 5-ply instead of the 3/8" 3-ply that was in the original interior. It probably added 10 lb to the gross weight of the boat, but the 5-ply holds up waaaay better. THen I sealed it with the sealant you see in the last pictures. I think they color it so that you can see what you've covered already.

Vinyl should be here next week - I'm going to replace most of the foam, as it has mildew and is pretty ratty. 25+ years will do that to foam.

DooSPX
06-02-2011, 12:54 PM
What sealant are you using? It looks great!! Can't wait to see the finished product!

jconover
06-02-2011, 01:47 PM
Cabot Clear Solution - water sealing, deep penetrating premium sealant

87MCProstar
06-03-2011, 08:46 AM
I am as well looking forward to seeing final result. Great Job!

DooSPX
06-03-2011, 09:44 AM
Cabot Clear Solution - water sealing, deep penetrating premium sealant

Thanks jconover!

jconover
06-05-2011, 01:26 AM
Oh happy day. Got my boat back. Recap: after stripping old paint from boat, found some bubbles in gelcoat, and a few repairs in that area (some sort of body filler). ground out all that stuff and took it to a professional for those repairs. Ended up that most of the starboard rear end had gelcoat damage. Ground out all the damage, regelled, painted the upper stripe (too expensive to regel the whole "top of the shoebox").

Boat is back in the garage. Put the carpet in today. For reference, if you buy an 8x25 roll of carpet, you can cut it at 19 feet (i cut it at 19' 6"), and then slit the 19' long piece down the middle. This will give you enough material to carpet the whole boat from bow to stern with just two pieces, and the remaining 6 foot section is sufficient to cover the two bilge hatches and the remaining pieces that need carpet in the boat. Here's a few pics of the boat with new carpet. Still need to do the bilge covers, gas tank panel, side panels, and i should have enough scraps left over to cover my amp board. I also cut a 13 foot long by 8 inch wide piece from the right hand side to wrap the lower part of the motor box.

Still got a lot of work to do to put her all back together, but I'm getting there. Also have a box full of VERY pretty power coated metal bits which need to be reinstalled on the hull. I will take pictures of those in the morning before i start installing.

jconover
06-07-2011, 03:41 AM
Some pretty pics of the newly powder coated, and new installed, pieces.

03geetee
06-07-2011, 09:01 AM
Looking great man hats off!

JTR

jconover
06-07-2011, 05:06 PM
User rjracin240 PM'd me a request for some shots of the fuel tank innards, since I had it pulled out.

First picture is the OEM fuel pickup - it is a rubber pickup with a brass screen on the end.

Second picture is the customer fuel pickup that was in the boat when I bought it. It is a copper tube attached to a piece of galvanized pipe, which is welded to the fuel fitting. This contraption does not fit through the fuel pickup hole, so he cut a hole in the tank and installed it from the inside.

Third picture is a photo of the OEM fuel float. Seems to be a wooden float attached to a hinge arm.

Some fuel system questions for the community:
1. The OEM tank fuel fitting has a check ball. Opinions on this? My (modified) tank did not have this ball. I also have issues with fuel supply when pulling wakeboarders (when the boat is on a fairly steep incline, it "putts" like it is missing) - could gravity be working against the mechanical fuel pump?

2. The OEM pickup tube flops around in the bottom of the tank. Any point in trying to orient it in a specific direction? Prior to the rebuild, I'd run out of gas even with a gallon or two sitting in the bottom of the tank - not just slosh, I just dont think the pickup was sitting at the bottom of the tank.

jconover
06-07-2011, 05:30 PM
More pictures as requested -

Where I mounted my blower motor (someone tell me if I got it in even remotely the right spot...).

Where it connects to (not currently connected)

Where my bilge pump is mounted

JIMM
06-07-2011, 10:48 PM
In my 87 the blower motor is actually mounted above the gas tank and just the bottom vent hose runs up to the engine. I have seen other ones in pictures on this site mounted like you have. I think that mine is the stock location for 87, it seems to blow the fumes out the back vents farly well. I have owned since 93.

Barefooter92
06-07-2011, 11:19 PM
Dude you got some serious b@!!$ to tackle that! Looks awesome.

Hope your not missing too much of the good boating weather.

What will you do when you get her wet? It will take you 3 hours to dry her off.

Enjoying your tread.

Kevin 89MC
06-08-2011, 05:30 PM
Some fuel system questions for the community:
1. The OEM tank fuel fitting has a check ball. Opinions on this? My (modified) tank did not have this ball. I also have issues with fuel supply when pulling wakeboarders (when the boat is on a fairly steep incline, it "putts" like it is missing) - could gravity be working against the mechanical fuel pump?

2. The OEM pickup tube flops around in the bottom of the tank. Any point in trying to orient it in a specific direction? Prior to the rebuild, I'd run out of gas even with a gallon or two sitting in the bottom of the tank - not just slosh, I just dont think the pickup was sitting at the bottom of the tank.

First of all NICE work man!! In chasing a high speed stall I have on my '89 with the 351 (in another thread), I have dug into my gas tank to look at the pickup. When I tried to separate my anti-siphon, I snapped the fitting off. I actually did not know it had one until a ball & spring shot out. My pickup is different than yours, mine is a straight piece of hard plastic tubing, with a filter on the end. The filter is about a half inch off the bottom of the tank, about in the middle, which I think is probably the best place for it. I'd try to land your pickup in the middle of the tank, or better yet replace it with the original setup. When I replaced my anti-siphon and the special fitting between it and the pickup tube from my local MC dealer, I was pleasantly surprised they had them in stock. I'd recommend going back to stock pickup, I'd bet most of the MC dealers have it, or can get it. I should have taken a picture of it all, oh well. One of the ways I may try to fix my high speed stall is temporarily removing the anti-siphon, but I would guess that is not my problem, or yours either. I have run out of gas and there is about an inch of fuel left as well, but I don't think there is a good way to pick up any more fuel than that.

Is your gas gauge working? If not it may be your float. My original one failed a few years ago, so I replaced it with one from skidim. It bolted right in, and after a few adjustments to the level position, it is right on the nuts.
Good luck with the rest of the project! So good to see one of these old steeds coming back to life!

Kevin

jconover
06-10-2011, 02:46 AM
Worked on the exhaust... installed new silencers (in-tube, -8.4 db) to try and quiet her down a bit.

jconover
06-10-2011, 02:48 AM
Plumbed the gas tank and secured everything under the rear end of the boat, and then...
put the top back on. yay. i get a garage stall back... well, soon.

jconover
06-10-2011, 02:50 AM
Nice new carpeting

jconover
06-10-2011, 02:51 AM
Installing the rivets - about 200 of them, and the rub rail

jconover
06-10-2011, 02:53 AM
Put the windshield back on, and bent the ND tower to fit (it was a bit out of calibration - it takes a lot of force to bend it back into spec - I used a tiedown strap to pull the rear in, and a ratcheting cargo bar to push the front legs out .75 inches each, respectively.

Used a 1 inch forstner bit to drill through the gelcoat down to the glass.

jconover
06-10-2011, 02:56 AM
Oh the pain of drilling holes in the hull

jconover
06-10-2011, 02:57 AM
The holes from the inside

jconover
06-10-2011, 02:58 AM
Hmmm... there seems to be a support member in the sidewall of the boat, right where my reinforcement plate is supposed to go. Think I need to call NDT on this one

blackcreek
06-10-2011, 09:33 AM
Did you run a bead of sealant along the hull/top seam?

psychobilly
06-10-2011, 11:56 AM
You're gunna be on the lake before you know it man! Looking great!

jconover
06-10-2011, 03:56 PM
Yeah, you can see bits of it (the black ooze) that came through the holes at the join line. I used black Boat Life sealant (above and below water rated)

jconover
06-10-2011, 10:35 PM
After drilling the holes and lining everything up, there really isn't much more to it. Glass in the four supports - wait a few hours, and bolt the tower up to the boat. All the prep work was 90% of the effort!

87MCProstar
06-10-2011, 10:56 PM
I was always curious to see what my boat would look like with a tower. That ND tower really follows the lines of the windshield nice! Great work

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
06-10-2011, 10:56 PM
It's looking like a world record ski boat again, great job...

03geetee
06-11-2011, 09:38 AM
It's looking like a world record ski boat again, great job...


Agreed and this ones got a big block!

JTR

oxberger
06-11-2011, 10:55 AM
Awesome job!!! Well done. What's left to do before you're out on the water?

jconover
06-11-2011, 06:03 PM
Vinyl - should be in sometime next week
Stereo/Speakers - they are in my office, waiting to be installed
Finish wiring in the new eCoil that I put on the distributor (replacing the old cylindrical coil which tended to overheat)
Reinstall dashboard and steering wheel
A few air hoses need to go in

Change oil, plugs, tranny fluid. should be good to go.

I also have a new driveshaft bearing, but I think i'm going to wait until this fall to change that out, since i'm losing summer ski time at this point...

03geetee
06-11-2011, 07:35 PM
Vinyl - should be in sometime next week
Stereo/Speakers - they are in my office, waiting to be installed
Finish wiring in the new eCoil that I put on the distributor (replacing the old cylindrical coil which tended to overheat)
Reinstall dashboard and steering wheel
A few air hoses need to go in

Change oil, plugs, tranny fluid. should be good to go.

I also have a new driveshaft bearing, but I think i'm going to wait until this fall to change that out, since i'm losing summer ski time at this point...

Info on Ecoil?

JTR

jconover
06-12-2011, 02:00 AM
Mallory Promaster eCoil - Part #30451. It's a 1.4 ohm coil, basically it is internally ballasted and oil-free. It has a big heatsink to keep it cool. I havent busted one apart to see if there is anything solid state inside. Talked with Mallory about my ongoing coil overheat problems, they suggested this (go figure). I'll let you know how it works out.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-12-2011, 12:53 PM
Mallory Promaster eCoil - Part #30451. It's a 1.4 ohm coil, basically it is internally ballasted and oil-free. It has a big heatsink to keep it cool. I havent busted one apart to see if there is anything solid state inside. Talked with Mallory about my ongoing coil overheat problems, they suggested this (go figure). I'll let you know how it works out.

That looks like a good solution. Hope it works for you.

Cloaked
06-12-2011, 10:44 PM
Mallory Promaster eCoil - Part #30451. It's a 1.4 ohm coil, basically it is internally ballasted and oil-free. It has a big heatsink to keep it cool. I havent busted one apart to see if there is anything solid state inside. Talked with Mallory about my ongoing coil overheat problems, they suggested this (go figure). I'll let you know how it works out.
Pics of how you mounted it, please?

Thank you


.

DemolitionMan
06-12-2011, 10:49 PM
That boat has come a long way. Looks great!!!!!

tph
06-20-2011, 05:15 PM
I would like to install a similar rub rail. Where did you get it and how did you deal with concealing the splice at the center of the transom (Pics if you have them)

Thanks

BROUSSARD
06-20-2011, 06:29 PM
It's looking like a world record ski boat again, great job...

- the tower

jconover
06-21-2011, 02:48 AM
The Rub Rail is Taco Marine rub rail - I bought the all-in-one soft vinyl kit...
http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail-Kits--rub_rail_kits.html

tph
06-21-2011, 12:37 PM
The Rub Rail is Taco Marine rub rail - I bought the all-in-one soft vinyl kit...
http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail-Kits--rub_rail_kits.html

Thanks, Which size did you get? Looking forward to pics of the finished boat.

jconover
06-21-2011, 06:02 PM
Oh - there's only one with vinyl - on - vinyl:
http://tacomarine.com/item--1-9-16-x-3-4-Semi-Rigid-Rub-Rail--V11-9795BBK.html

jconover
06-21-2011, 06:03 PM
eCoil installed

jconover
06-21-2011, 06:10 PM
Some pics of the amp mounting board i fashioned. it sits under the dash between the observer seat and the driver console. Left side has all the electrical equipment, right side has all the audio gear

jconover
06-21-2011, 06:16 PM
Someone asked how I managed the transom end of the rub rail. Here it is before meddling with it. I am still working on finding the right cut that allows me to put the rub rail cover back on the rub rail

DooSPX
06-21-2011, 10:25 PM
Looks great! Looking forward to the results!!!! Great work!! A+

89BigBlock
06-22-2011, 11:29 AM
Worked on the exhaust... installed new silencers (in-tube, -8.4 db) to try and quiet her down a bit.

Where are these from? Any power loss with these?

Kyle
06-22-2011, 01:47 PM
Looks great. Keep up the good work.

Not to jinx you but I put a new rub rail on my boat. Went out the 3rd time and nicked it. About packed up the boat and went home. I asked 3 people to keep the boat off the dock and they still didn't do it right. What do you do yell at them like a drill sargent ruin everyone elses day, or leave after being there 10 min still ruining everyones day. Now I get a competent truck driver to park and I float as far from the dock as possible then come back and get the truck parker or I use bumpers and tie it up. I had 5 peeps with me the other day none could back a trailer so I knew holding the boat was too big of a task also so I tied it up. They asked if they could help and I responded help by grabbing yourself a beer I'll be right back.

Lesson is the rails scratch very easy and a scratch sticks out bad on a perfect rail good luck.

DooSPX
06-22-2011, 03:15 PM
Looks great. Keep up the good work.

Not to jinx you but I put a new rub rail on my boat. Went out the 3rd time and nicked it. About packed up the boat and went home. I asked 3 people to keep the boat off the dock and they still didn't do it right. What do you do yell at them like a drill sargent ruin everyone elses day, or leave after being there 10 min still ruining everyones day. Now I get a competent truck driver to park and I float as far from the dock as possible then come back and get the truck parker or I use bumpers and tie it up. I had 5 peeps with me the other day none could back a trailer so I knew holding the boat was too big of a task also so I tied it up. They asked if they could help and I responded help by grabbing yourself a beer I'll be right back.

Lesson is the rails scratch very easy and a scratch sticks out bad on a perfect rail good luck.

I am considering a stainless rub rail in the future for mine for that very reason!

wrobins1
06-22-2011, 05:10 PM
INCREDIBLE WORK AND GREAT DOCUMENTATION OF IT! Thanks!

jconover
06-22-2011, 05:39 PM
@89BigBlock - Aqua Power Ltd - http://www.aquapowerltd.com/Pages/products.htm

They claim no HP loss for applications up to 500 HP

jconover
06-24-2011, 04:01 AM
Wiring arrived from GenuineDealz today. Spent all night under the dash wiring up the stereo, perfectpass, amps, wetsounds EQ, horn, and lighter.

I didn't know that you could lay under the bow sideways (albeit a bit curled up). I think i'm going to go see my back doctor tomorrow :-)

woobiedmd
06-24-2011, 07:25 AM
Looks great! Keep the pix coming! Truly a labor of love!:)

RadarDad
06-24-2011, 09:31 AM
I sold my 1988 ProStar a little over a year ago with 966 hours. Over the years I changed carpet, fuel lines, steering cables and decals. I understand why you would restore one vs getting a new one. You have done all the changes a pearson that owned a boat for 22 years would liked to have done. Great job and really good photos.

Keep up the great work. Roger

jconover
06-26-2011, 03:59 AM
Thanks RadarDad - you're right on the money - except the previous owner really neglected the boat - so all the maintenance just piled up :-)

Took pictures of the work I did the other night - electrical wiring just starboard of the observer seat, under the bow, subwoofer resting in the bow for now, still trying decide on a final location for it. Amps on the drivers side. Also installed the new alternator (DB electrical provided me a 3-wire model based on my engine make/model - for reference, it was an ADR0106 - 140 amp 3 wire marine alternator.

jconover
06-26-2011, 04:01 AM
Oh yeah - totally disassembled and reassembled the dashboard, putting in the new panels (which I found here in a thread from maybe 6 months ago). Looks sharp.

Question - is there a way to disassemble an MC speedo and somehow attach the chromed ring to the PP? The PP looks so out of place next to the factory speedo

jconover
06-26-2011, 04:55 PM
Kids are eager to go skiing. I can't blame them.

Finished wiring up the stereo. Discovered that I can just barely get the boat in the garage with the tower down (the legs of the tower brush the weather stripping on the garage door as she goes in). This is the downside of mounting the speakers on top of the tower. But the alternative is having them hang down where i'm going to clock myself. Not going to do that.

Also discovered there is no way in hell that I can lift the tower up into the upright position by myself. That kinda sucks.

Put the teak back on the rear end of the boat. Looks nice.

Also discovered that it is very important to replace the safety breakaway switch when trying to start the engine... (why the HECK is there not 12V on the ignition post at the engine?! It's there on the key...not in the cable... Oh, duh! Son of a gun, that was an hour wasted). Engine fired right up. Investment in carb rebuilt last summer was well worth it.

My newly installed exhaust hoses are leaking at the hose clamps. This does not make me happy. I ordered up some T-bolt clamps to apply a little more beef to the hoses, since I've got the standard clamps torqued down as much as they will take, and i'm still getting water seepage. (Anyone else have experience with this?)

Next up: Reinstalling graphics.

03geetee
06-26-2011, 11:26 PM
Thats awesome dude!

Congrats on the hard work paying off.

JTR

89BigBlock
06-27-2011, 12:14 PM
J- the MC speedo ring will come off without taking out the speedo itself. Just work it out carefully.

jconover
06-27-2011, 01:02 PM
Hmm thanks - that worked great. Now I just have to find a good way to attach it to the PP - the old ring was hot-glued on, but the new ring doesnt seem to sit nicely if i try and hot glue it. maybe i'm using the wrong glue, it is setting really fast.

DooSPX
06-27-2011, 05:24 PM
Looks great!!

ksdaoski
07-01-2011, 08:36 PM
Great Job!

Cloaked
07-02-2011, 12:12 AM
My newly installed exhaust hoses are leaking at the hose clamps. This does not make me happy. I ordered up some T-bolt clamps to apply a little more beef to the hoses, since I've got the standard clamps torqued down as much as they will take, and i'm still getting water seepage. (Anyone else have experience with this?)

Next up: Reinstalling graphics.A common issue, in particular at the transom connection. I double clamped each hose and this still did not stop the entire leak. Post up where you got the T-clamps, please. I got all of the other clamp connections to seal nicely.

03geetee
07-02-2011, 09:05 AM
Any turbo/supercharger supply shop will have these. I get all my plumbing from CX Racing and that includes a variety of T clamps.

Check them out!

JTR

psychobilly
07-02-2011, 03:52 PM
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?freeText=hose%20clamps&resultPref=all&page=GRID&history=


You could just go to a boat supply distributor....

jconover
07-06-2011, 01:24 PM
I ordered my T-bolt clamps from Mcmaster-Carr...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/259/=d25tzf

I used part # 5462K67 for the exhaust, except for the two that went over the manifold header, which i used the next size up, part #5462K88 (4-3/4# - 5-1/8") as the headers expand the hose a bit more than the 4-3/8" to 4-3/4" variety allow. Note for others reading this down the road, this boat has 4" (ID) exhaust due to the 454-HO... standard 351 powered engines will have a smaller exhaust methinks.

These things are awesome - they are basically an inch wide, and they have a 3/8" (head) bolt you can drive with a ratchet or box-end wrench. Can be torqued to 166 in-lbs, which is way more than the standard clamps. We had to really crank them down to eliminate all the water leaks on the new exhaust hose. I am very pleased with the results. I still put on a pair of clamps on each fitting, as it is recommended for safety (if one of those clamps were to break, you'd be in a boatload of trouble, quite literally)

I also got my vinyl from Jim Jackson at Viper Customs today... been waiting quite a while for that. Took it right down to the upholstery shop (I'm using Visions Custom Upholstery of Green Bay, WI) and we worked through all the pieces. Going to take about a week to get that work done (upholsterer is on vacation this week) - but I should be in the water by next friday. Woot!

DooSPX
07-23-2011, 03:03 PM
any updates?

jconover
07-28-2011, 07:44 PM
Finally got the skins in and upholstered professionally ($700 for installation, $1000 for the skins from Viper Customs) - turned out really sharp - had to restitch one of the back seats, it was about an inch short, but it doesnt show, which is good.

Haven't taken any vanity shots of the boat, but here's a few from last weekend's camp getaway.

imracin68j
07-28-2011, 09:26 PM
Where did you get the bumper trim around the boat? Is it hard to replace? I've done some work to my 88 prostar. I'll post some pics later.

DooSPX
07-28-2011, 11:36 PM
Great looking jconover! Can't wait to see the vanity shots!

jconover
07-29-2011, 04:42 PM
Sun is out and winds are calm, so I pulled her out to get ready for some runs tonight.

Re: the rub rail, that's taco marine - please search back through this thread, I posted the SKU and website. One note - the wind pushed the boat into the dock on monday, and took a gouge out of that flexible vinyl rub rail. To say i was frustrated with my junior shipmate/driver would be an understatement. We have a lot of current in the river this year, so dock maneuvers can be a bit tricky, but still, it underscores the fact that a flex-vinyl rubrail is pretty weak when it comes to strength/resilience.

Oh well, it's a good project for next winter or when I sell the boat.

Mr_Woodcock
07-29-2011, 06:26 PM
Love it....

ctjahn
07-29-2011, 06:52 PM
Didnt realize you were a wisconsin resident till now....GB?

Heading up north of Wausau this weekend.

cj - 78 S&S

03geetee
07-31-2011, 10:50 PM
That boat looks sexy! Great job bro!

Another WI boater sounding off!

JTR

jconover
08-01-2011, 01:22 PM
Yep, GB - I ski out of wrightstown every monday and thursday at 6:00 PM (or so) - those are the days when I have a spotter available, I'm around other days too if anyone is looking for a pull

Didnt realize you were a wisconsin resident till now....GB?

Heading up north of Wausau this weekend.

cj - 78 S&S

Luv2Ski
09-06-2011, 07:00 PM
Wow dude, it is like looking at my boats long-lost twin brother! Awesome to see that you went with a similar pattern and glad to hear Jim treated you well. I have not been reading posts too often lately - using my free time up on the lake as much as possible, but I had to see how progress was going - you did great!

jconover
09-06-2011, 07:42 PM
You were absolutely my inspiration ;-)

Thanks for all the pointers - my ski season got cut really short when my daughter (tubing) collided with a floatable out in the lake and bruised her eyeball (resulted in a cataract which will require surgery).

Looking at winterizing already :-(

SkiDog
09-06-2011, 08:43 PM
You were absolutely my inspiration ;-)

Thanks for all the pointers - my ski season got cut really short when my daughter (tubing) collided with a floatable out in the lake and bruised her eyeball (resulted in a cataract which will require surgery).

Looking at winterizing already :-(

Damn tubes! Ought to outlaw the damn things!:mad:

thatsmrmastercraft
09-07-2011, 01:49 AM
You were absolutely my inspiration ;-)

Thanks for all the pointers - my ski season got cut really short when my daughter (tubing) collided with a floatable out in the lake and bruised her eyeball (resulted in a cataract which will require surgery).

Looking at winterizing already :-(

That is terrible to hear. I hope she is doing well.

jconover
05-28-2012, 10:01 PM
I've decided to sell the boat in this thread in favor of a bigger, more family-friendly boat (I bought a new Prostar X-14V.. oh boy, can't wait till it gets here!)

If anyone is seriously interested in buying the boat in this thread, please drop me a line. I have half a mind to just trade it in to the dealer, which means that if you're at all serious about a perfectly restored Prostar 190 with a 425HP 7.4L 454-HO, you would be getting a great deal. As you can tell if you do the math in this thread, I've got over $20,000 into this boat, plus a year of labor (labor of love)

I've put it in the marketplace for $13,500. Boat has 950 hours - top end was rebuilt at 904, bottom was rebuilt at 450 - should be years before you need to do anything more than change the oil, raw water pump, fuel filter, and maybe tranny fluid every few years. :):) You can make me an offer, but I think my asking price is more than fair.

http://www.mastercraft.com/market/showproduct.php?product=4326

Here's the difference between the $6500 boat I bought and the one you'd be buying:
NDT Tower ($2200)
950W JL class D dual-amp stereo with kenwood head end. ($1500)
Dual bullet HLCDs on the tower, JL marine sub under the bow. JBL-652 house speakers. ($1000)
Completely new electrical system front to back. (starter, ignition, coil, alternator, batteries converted to a dual-battery system, all new 00-gauge electrical) ($1000)
3-event perfect pass cruise control system ($1000)
All new carpet and brand new interior - vinyl work by Jim Jackson at Viper Customs ($2000)

Oh, and of course all the gelcoat and engine work, which I consider table stakes to buy a boat of this quality (that's were the rest of the money is in this project)

JohnnyB
05-29-2012, 08:14 AM
Just curious...what dealer did you order your new boat from?

Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk

Ironhorse
05-29-2012, 10:23 AM
jconover, thanks for such a great thread. You are either one talented guy or just a crazy ba$%ard with a lot of patience. The boat looks fantastic! Good luck with the sale.

cptskier15
09-25-2012, 03:43 PM
Great thread! Always fell bleak when the boat gets sold in the end, not sure I could do that myself!

BROUSSARD
09-25-2012, 05:52 PM
The tower could be considered -value! Good luck with the sale!