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View Full Version : Winter's rath - dead fuel pump


emnesto
04-14-2011, 09:03 PM
Well, it finally happened. Look's like the pump died over the winter. It worked for winterization. Full fuel tank. Stored in enclosed shed. Today I turned the key and waited for the familiar rumble, but it wasn't there. Another sound that was absent - the humm of the fuel pump pressurizing the system. Unless any of you know about a secret fuse, or other less than obvious tip, I think it's going to be a trip to the dealer. Question - are the new pumps any more reliable then the ones installed in '06.

Justjoe
04-14-2011, 09:39 PM
Do it yourself man!!

JimN
04-14-2011, 10:22 PM
Well, it finally happened. Look's like the pump died over the winter. It worked for winterization. Full fuel tank. Stored in enclosed shed. Today I turned the key and waited for the familiar rumble, but it wasn't there. Another sound that was absent - the humm of the fuel pump pressurizing the system. Unless any of you know about a secret fuse, or other less than obvious tip, I think it's going to be a trip to the dealer. Question - are the new pumps any more reliable then the ones installed in '06.

Smack the top plate and see if it works. I heard that tip from a couple of guys who worked for GM at the Desert Proving Grounds.

Thrall
04-15-2011, 11:56 AM
Smack the top plate and see if it works. I heard that tip from a couple of guys who worked for GM at the Desert Proving Grounds.

Works for a dead starter motor sometimes too!

Before replacing the pump, check that you have power to the pump (for 2-3sec after turning the key to run, same duration htat you used to hear the pump pressurize the fuel system before starting). If you have power, then it's the pump, if you don't, look elsewhere for the problem.
You can replace just the pump in the module for < $100 or buy the whole module from the dealer for $400-500.

Jerseydave
04-15-2011, 12:13 PM
Wiggle the connection plug at the top of pump.....if no change then check the plug for voltage before you just go and buy a new pump.

I'm changing out my pump this season.....just for piece of mind. (4 seasons on it, over 200 hours) I ran it low on gas a few times so I'm sure it's ready to die anyway! :mad:

emnesto
04-16-2011, 12:01 AM
Problem solved. I pulled apart the connector just before the connector into the tank. Found volts when expected. Plugged that back in and pulled off the connector on the fuel tank. Again, found volts when expected. Plugged it back in, turned the key, and the pump worked. Will spray both connectors with electro cleaner and reseal the connectors before hitting the lake. Thanks for all the support.

emnesto
05-08-2011, 12:40 AM
I just thought the problem was solved. Today the weather had no rain and warmer temps. Went to start, but no fuel pump sound. This time, definately no power to the connections between relay and pump. After a half dozen key turns, power returned. Next choices were the relay, or a fuse. I figured once a fuse goes, it can't come back. I replaced the relay with new match from Autozone. I'll checkit tomorrow, but won't be using it until next weekend.

SkiDemon70
05-15-2011, 10:17 PM
Curious to see if this solved your problem. I changed my pump and boat still won't fire. I then checked to make sure my lanyard/kill switch was working properly and it was. Then I checked to see if I had power to the fuel pump module, and I don't have power for the 2-3 seconds that I should when the key is turned. I am looking for the root cause and am looking for the relay to change. What boat / engine do you have. What was the relay number? Thanks.

JimN
05-16-2011, 07:32 AM
Curious to see if this solved your problem. I changed my pump and boat still won't fire. I then checked to make sure my lanyard/kill switch was working properly and it was. Then I checked to see if I had power to the fuel pump module, and I don't have power for the 2-3 seconds that I should when the key is turned. I am looking for the root cause and am looking for the relay to change. What boat / engine do you have. What was the relay number? Thanks.

Before you change the relay, make sure the ECM is supplying the ground to latch it and that it has 12V on the other terminal. If you don't have 12VDC and ground on the relay terminals, a new relay won't help anything.

SkiDemon70
05-17-2011, 08:30 AM
Before you change the relay, make sure the ECM is supplying the ground to latch it and that it has 12V on the other terminal. If you don't have 12VDC and ground on the relay terminals, a new relay won't help anything.
I found the fuel pump fuse and it was blown. Replaced fuse and pump was working, engine started, however, the engine idled high and appeared to be sputtering gas thru exhaust. BTW, I have 2001 Prostar 190 w/ 310 hp TBI motor. I replaced only the fuel pump with Airtex E2044 pump. Any ideas how address high idle (it has never done this before? The check engine light is on and runs rough if given higher throttle. Is there a "reset" procedure to reset codes?

JimN
05-17-2011, 09:08 AM
I found the fuel pump fuse and it was blown. Replaced fuse and pump was working, engine started, however, the engine idled high and appeared to be sputtering gas thru exhaust. BTW, I have 2001 Prostar 190 w/ 310 hp TBI motor. I replaced only the fuel pump with Airtex E2044 pump. Any ideas how address high idle (it has never done this before? The check engine light is on and runs rough if given higher throttle. Is there a "reset" procedure to reset codes?

If the check engine light is on, use a code scanner or paper clip, as described in several other recent posts to find out what's wrong.

What occurred immediately before the fuel pump fuse blew? Was the battery connected with the cables reversed and the key turned ON? That's a really bad thing.

If it idles high and rich, I would suspect the TPS or maybe the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature sensor). Check the fuel pressure and timing (verify that base timing is 10BTDC). Do you have raw gas coming out of the exhaust or does it just smell like gas fumes?

You may have a bad IAC, or it may need to be "re-parked". Don't do this manually- the teeth on the pintle shaft can be damaged.

What are the pressure and volume specs on the Airtex pump? Are they the same as the OEM pump?

You may want to take it to a MC dealer to have it connected to their equipment for diagnostics. It will, or should be, faster than what you can do unless you have similar equipment.

emnesto
05-17-2011, 09:19 AM
I checked it several times by listening after the key was turned to ON. The pump always ran. Last weekend I hit the water for the first time this season. No troubles. The pump and engine worked great. I'm glad this issue is solved.