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View Full Version : Replacing Strut Bushings on 2000 PS205


mcole82
04-07-2011, 08:48 PM
I have a 2000 PS205 with an LTR engine and it makes noise when I turn the prop shaft. I think that my bushings in my strut need replaced. I sprayed WD40 on the bushing and the noise quit. I was wondering what the easiest way to accomplish this is?

Has anyone tried this on a ski boat? I wouldn't have to pull the prop shaft.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOwr3l6bkGA


I found this one on Team talk and wonder if this would be better?
http://www.skidim.com/searchprods.asp


Also, if I have to pull the prop shaft do I need to remove the rudder first?

Thanks for your help!

JLeuck64
04-07-2011, 10:18 PM
Those will sound screechy when you turn the prop shaft out of the water. Water is the lubricant and if you would have soaked it down with that it would have quieted it down just like the WD-40 did.

How many hours you have on your boat so far? The reason I ask is to the best of my recollection strut bearings are supposed to be changed at 300 hours. I would be curious to learn how many owners actually follow that guideline... I know I don't plan on changing them out that often, HEY we should make a poll to find out how often ever body else changes their strut bearings!

But seriously, I am gonna base my maintenance interval on my own experience with boats and the type of water I run them in. I figure I could easily get by running 600 hrs or more with little worries of the old bearing wearing out the drive shaft. That's what your really trying to reduce the wear on anyways.

That first link looked pretty cool, if you're a repair facility doing those types of jobs. I am afraid to ask what they are asking for it but it does look like a time saver.

The second link didn't work, was this the puller you were referring too?
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SHSBPULLERG
I have one and have only used it once so far and it worked great for the DIYer. That particular boat had well over 1200 hrs on it by the time I bought it and the drive shaft was pretty worn from riding on the strut bearing for all those years so I replaced it also at the same time.

milehigh970
04-07-2011, 10:30 PM
Don't mean to jack your thread :) but i am getting ready to do my strut bushings on my 86 prostar. I called the local dealer too get an idea of labor and they told me there common practice was to remove Prop, unbolt the strut remove and replace whole strut. There quote was about 80 bucks cheaper this way then pulling tranny and shaft and realigning. So why not pull the strut that way then just swap the bushings off the boat and reinstall?? Thoughts anyone? Did't mean to jack your thread, just didn't wanna start a very similar post and plus maybe give you another idea. ;)

FrankSchwab
04-08-2011, 01:09 AM
Huh?

The approach should be to remove the prop, seperate the coupler from the transmission, remove the coupler half from the propshaft, slide the propshaft out of the boat, replace the bushings, slide the propshaft back into the boat, attach the coupler to the shaft, bolt the coupler halves together, then bolt the prop back on. Of course, I'd take the opportunity to do a full alignment on the propshaft at that point - maybe another hour if you don't know what you're doing, another 15 minutes if you do.

No need to pull transmissions, fer shur.

/frank

Splash
04-08-2011, 03:22 AM
Be very carefull with your Shaft Seal System while sliding your shaft in and out. You don't want to brake anything in it. Depending your shaft seal it will be more or less difficult. I have a OjProps Shaft Seal and you have to be very carefull with the seal.
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2041B

FrankSchwab
04-08-2011, 01:02 PM
Good point; but with a 2000 he probably has an old-style stuffing box. In that case, you probably have to assume that you'll have to replace the packing (http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO3/16X24) for $12 as part of the operation.

mcole82
04-08-2011, 05:57 PM
@ JLeuck64 - Thanks for the advise. My boat has 440 hours on it, so I will keep an eye on it and see if it makes any noise when I get it out on the water. I guess I will go from there on if I will replace it right now or give it another season. The link you sent is the same thing that I attached so thats good to know.

@Splash & FrankSchwab - Where is the shaft seal located? I don't remember seeing that or did that replace the packing gland nut? I did just put new packing in the nut and that is no problem to have to replace again.

Thanks for the help, it is suppose to be 80 degs tommorrow, so I might have to get it out on the water and see if I notice any noise.

woobiedmd
04-08-2011, 06:07 PM
I was always under the impression that you would change it when it was hard to turn the prop by hand. Mine was hard to turn by hand at 600hrs last season. Unfortunately, I hit a stump and bent everything including the prop, driveshaft and strut. Now I can easily spin the prop with 2 fingers. Thank god for boat insurance!

JLeuck64
04-08-2011, 09:14 PM
I was always under the impression that you would change it when it was hard to turn the prop by hand. Mine was hard to turn by hand at 600hrs last season. Unfortunately, I hit a stump and bent everything including the prop, driveshaft and strut. Now I can easily spin the prop with 2 fingers. Thank god for boat insurance!

LMAO!!!
Me too!

FrankSchwab
04-09-2011, 12:22 AM
Where is the shaft seal located? I don't remember seeing that or did that replace the packing gland nut? I did just put new packing in the nut and that is no problem to have to replace again.


Later model boats replaced the normal packing and packing nut with a "dripless shaft seal" (http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2011). Rather than a waxed flax rope rubbing on the driveshaft to keep the water out, it uses a carbon-carbon sliding seal to do it; the red hose in the picture is to keep water flowing around the seal to keep it lubricated and cool. The packing in our boats has to have water dripping on the inside of the boat to make sure the packing is wet and lubricated.

/frank