PDA

View Full Version : Pulling engine?


jdeml
03-28-2011, 06:33 PM
Well finally found my issue to water in oil. A leak around the oil pan in the front where it does that half circle shape. Question is do I have to pull the engine and how? or can I raise it and how much (and how?) or should I take it to a dealer? Also I think its coming from that seal but cant really tell if its the crankshaft seal or oil pan seal. Any help would be great like always.

Luv2Ski
03-28-2011, 06:52 PM
I am a little confused. Why would a leaky pan or crankshaft seal result in water in your oil? Unless your bilge has a small lake in it, water should not be up that high on the block. If you really have that much water in your bilge, you are going to have a variety of other problems such as mowing through starters.

As for the seal question, you can probably do it w/o pulling the engine. You only need a couple of inches to get in there, clean the old surface and put in a new seal. The most difficult part would be avoiding dropping crap into the pan unless you have enough space to actually reach in and clean the pan off (or better yet actually be able to get it out from under the engine).

If it is the crank seal, you just need to get the pulley and damper out of the way. Then remove the timing cover, put in new seals.... done deal.

BTW, you may get more specific answers if you mention the model and engine.

Enjoy

jdeml
03-28-2011, 07:34 PM
I am a little confused. Why would a leaky pan or crankshaft seal result in water in your oil? Unless your bilge has a small lake in it, water should not be up that high on the block. If you really have that much water in your bilge, you are going to have a variety of other problems such as mowing through starters.

As for the seal question, you can probably do it w/o pulling the engine. You only need a couple of inches to get in there, clean the old surface and put in a new seal. The most difficult part would be avoiding dropping crap into the pan unless you have enough space to actually reach in and clean the pan off (or better yet actually be able to get it out from under the engine).

If it is the crank seal, you just need to get the pulley and damper out of the way. Then remove the timing cover, put in new seals.... done deal.

BTW, you may get more specific answers if you mention the model and engine.

Enjoy

Sorry I had a whole other thread in General discussion (long story) but I did get water in and it entered that leak which gave me water in oil. Boats a 2004 xstar with MCX. I jsut figured Id post on Engine help with reguards to replacing oil pan seal. Thanks

jdeml
03-28-2011, 09:09 PM
Heres the pic of the underside of the front of the oil pan. I am seeing a gap there and will be replacing that gasket. Is it just alot of screws that attach the pan. im thinking just leaving motor in place and undoing screws taking off old gasket and sliding new one on with a couple inches tolerance. Anyone do this this way?

65377

matt
03-28-2011, 10:31 PM
I pulled the engine out of my Prostar this year and reinstalled it after a rebuild. To be honest, if you have any mechanical ability, it is easy. Disconnect the raw water hose, the prop shaft bolts, the engine and transmission mount bolts, battery, ground and positive, control plug and exhaust. there isn't much more, and it was easy in and out. Working on it out of the boat is the way to go in my opinion, It took an hour, and made it less frustrating.

jdeml
03-28-2011, 11:02 PM
I pulled the engine out of my Prostar this year and reinstalled it after a rebuild. To be honest, if you have any mechanical ability, it is easy. Disconnect the raw water hose, the prop shaft bolts, the engine and transmission mount bolts, battery, ground and positive, control plug and exhaust. there isn't much more, and it was easy in and out. Working on it out of the boat is the way to go in my opinion, It took an hour, and made it less frustrating.

Yeah I figured its what Im going to have to do. Need to find a hoist to borrow. So looks like I have a weekend project now! I have a Vdrive so I should just pull it all as one piece? Im just afraid of aligning it back properly

Kyle
03-29-2011, 10:57 AM
Don't take the engine out.

It may be messy and you may need to dawn and hot water the bilge but leave engine in boat to do this job.

Drain oil. Lower your pan. There will be 2 long metal braces that the bottom pan bolts use to keep the pan uniform and evenly tight. The braces are exact contour to the pan so mixing them up should be impossible. So remove all bolts they should be 7/16 for all of them but 2 and those iirc will be 1/2. The bolts on the back of the pan in-between the trans and engine will require some patience if engine is in the boat. Lower pan and remove old gasket. Clean inside of pan with brake cleaner and spray the bottom of block and crank with brake clean as well. Get everything dry.

Your new gasket should be a rubber gasket. Roughly $50 at auto zone or like place. The rubber gasket comes with plastic crush sleeves or I call them plastic sleeves to keep you from overtightening the pan bolts. There will not need to be any gasket glue on rubber style gasket. I used a small amount around main seals and corners just to hold in place while adjusting the pan and getting all if the bolts in place. Make sure that main seal on pan is in correct place one last time and tighten her up. Fill up with oil and start her up again.

My .02c

Kyle
03-29-2011, 11:13 AM
The hardest part will not be lowering the pan. It will be fighting the back bolts in with a 1/4" drive socket with swivel and extension. Another will be when you loop the new gasket under the oil pump. I personally would try to remove old gasket from under oil pump to see the ease instead of cutting it and just pulling the old one out.

jdeml
03-29-2011, 08:03 PM
The hardest part will not be lowering the pan. It will be fighting the back bolts in with a 1/4" drive socket with swivel and extension. Another will be when you loop the new gasket under the oil pump. I personally would try to remove old gasket from under oil pump to see the ease instead of cutting it and just pulling the old one out.

THats what I needed to hear! Im going to tackle it this weekend. I pray that my big ol hands can get under there!! I got the gasket from skidim for iicr 35 bucks. So I should get that on thursday and will try my best. I just was racking my brains trying to figure out what I needed to do to Pull the engine. I really just dont want to mess up the alignment. Thanks everyone.

Kyle
03-30-2011, 09:24 AM
Engine alignment will not be effected if you don't take motor mounts off engine. If needed remove mounts from stringer.

Remove prop shaft coupler bolts, + & - cables, un plug wiring harness, trans shift cable and throttle cable (both are quick connect), if you have perfect pass then disconnect wires running to the servo motor, exhaust rubber hoses (warning the rubber hoses are on there and a birch to get off. They may crack and break if they are old), raw water hose to trans cooler.

Then use a chain hoist and an I beam and lift out.

A fork lift could also be used.

Two people required for removal and installation. Lowering engine and lining up bolt holes with a moving heavy engine will be better if you have an extra set of hands. Estimated time out and in is 30 to 45 min out 1 to 1 1/2 hour in.

Table Rocker
03-30-2011, 10:25 AM
I'm not trying to talk you out of this undertaking, but you have what seems to be a very small leak that is not under pressure. You might try to clean and dry the gap and then poke some rtv silicone in there (with a wire or something similar) as a temporary fix. If it doesn't work, go to step 2.

jdeml
03-31-2011, 12:22 AM
well what im worried about it replacing the oil pan gasket and all thats involved in that only to find its the timing cover gasket. Im thinking about maybe just replacing them both at the same time. Question. How do they butt up together. does one fit against the other. Ive never messed with it before.

Kyle
03-31-2011, 09:25 AM
Yes oil pan seals against the bottom of the timing cover.

I was under the impression that you knew for sure that the pan gasket was leaking. Now that it may be your timing cover I would 100% replace the roughly 10-20$ worth of gaskets or water pump and timing cover before pan gasket.

You can put gasket cement on timing cover and also inspect pan gasket at the same time. You may get away with glueing old pan gasket and bottom of timing cover yo make a correct seal.

Also look to see if you are not leaking from your oil pressure sender that has 1 wire and is right by the fuel pump.

Kyle
03-31-2011, 09:47 AM
Btw you must remove intake Manifold to get timing cover off so include intake gaskets too.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=34078&page=9

TayMC197
03-31-2011, 10:04 AM
Btw you must remove intake Manifold to get timing cover off so include intake gaskets too.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=34078&page=9

Haven't heard from ya, where have you been?

jdeml
04-01-2011, 02:17 AM
Yes oil pan seals against the bottom of the timing cover.

I was under the impression that you knew for sure that the pan gasket was leaking. Now that it may be your timing cover I would 100% replace the roughly 10-20$ worth of gaskets or water pump and timing cover before pan gasket.

You can put gasket cement on timing cover and also inspect pan gasket at the same time. You may get away with glueing old pan gasket and bottom of timing cover yo make a correct seal.

Also look to see if you are not leaking from your oil pressure sender that has 1 wire and is right by the fuel pump.

well im not sure how they fit. but I do know I have a leak at where the oil pan meets the timing cover. Im waiting till tomorrow to try and tackle this. Hopefully Ill make it out alive.