PDA

View Full Version : Removing prop shaft nut on V-drive


X-1Texas
03-15-2011, 07:49 PM
I'm in the process of making my drive train run true and smooth. A new prop shaft is on the way, but I'm having trouble getting the nut off at the coupler. I have a big pry wedged in to keep the shaft the shaft from spinning while I try to remove the nut. Anyway, does anyone have any wisdom from your experience in removing a prop shaft?

Boat is an '07 X-1

ncsone
03-15-2011, 08:26 PM
Is the prop still on the shaft? If so, can you put a wooden block between a prop blade and the ground to keep the assembly from spinning?

X-1Texas
03-15-2011, 08:50 PM
Shaft spinning is not a problem. The nut is extremely tight. I'm using a big 1 1/4" wrench and it won't move. I don't really have enough room to get any air tools in there. Anyone else ever had one that's really tight? In searching other threads I've seen people say their prop shaft nut fell off!

east tx skier
03-15-2011, 10:03 PM
I had one give me a lot of trouble once and went and got a big box wrench just for the prop nut. Blocked the prop with a wood block and, after some work, got it moving.

And yes, on my old 93, I had a nylock nut work its way loose, but not all the way off fortunately.

ncsone
03-15-2011, 11:18 PM
X1 Texas - where are you located? If you are in the Dallas area, I have one of these if it helps:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=85843&PartNo=SHLF80&group_id=22911&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

Sullivan
03-15-2011, 11:44 PM
The prop is off and you have the drive shaft disconnected from the flange that connects to the transmission, right? I've never done this on a V-Drive but you should be able to slide the drive shaft towards the back of the boat to gain enough room to get an impact gun on it. If the packing is too tight you can back the nut off to loosen the packing.

Not sure this helps but......maybe?

X-1Texas
03-15-2011, 11:53 PM
ncsone- I am in the DFW area, north end of lake lewisville. I live in Oak Point. There's not quite enough room to get a socket on the nut. I read about someone moving their gas tank forward a bit to make room in one of the threads. If I get to that point I may take you up to borrow that ratchet. I was also thinking of get a crow foot adapter to put on my air ratchet. Not sure if it would fit either.

East Tx- I went out today and bought a 1 1/4" wrench to use on the nut.

I've trying to do this without taking out the seat back. I guess taking out the seat back is my next step. That will help me get directly over the wrench, rather reaching in and trying to pull on it. Thanks for the suggestions.

I'm leaving tomorrow for Philly to watch NCAA Wrestling, so I'll have to continue this next week.

X-1Texas
03-15-2011, 11:59 PM
Sullivan- On a v-drive the shaft goes thru the trans and the coupler is actually in front of the transmission. If the gas tank and the back seat weren't in the way you could probably pull the shaft with coupler attached forward towards the front of the boat.

I put the prop back on and the coupler bolts back on the flange of the trans.

ncsone
03-16-2011, 09:09 AM
X-1 - You are not too far from me, then. I am in N. Plano and keep my boat at Lewisville lake.

I keep forgetting that you are working on a V-Drive. You have more clearance issues than I originally realized.

wakescene
03-16-2011, 01:45 PM
I'm in the process of making my drive train run true and smooth. A new prop shaft is on the way, but I'm having trouble getting the nut off at the coupler. I have a big pry wedged in to keep the shaft the shaft from spinning while I try to remove the nut. Anyway, does anyone have any wisdom from your experience in removing a prop shaft?

Boat is an '07 X-1

I have done this, it's a pain!

Loosen the set screw! (I believe all of them have this) It's an allen key set screw to keep the nut from backing out if it ever got loose. Remove the set screw. Coat the nut with PBBlaster, and squirt PB down into the set screw hole. now repeat....(or use WD-40 if that is all you have)

You can also try "tapping" the coupler with a hammer to try and break the kungfoo grip it's got on the shaft. Also try gently tapping the nut with a blunt punch and hammer. Gently

Your best option is to pull the floor in front of the trans and then loosen the brackets on the fuel tank. slide the tank forward as far as you can. This should give you enough room to get a 1/2" rachet on the nut and break it free (don't forget a 2-3ft pipe to get some extra leverage). If your crafty and have an "Ultimate Set of Tools" then you might be able to get a socket with a number of flexible extensions on there so you can mate a 1/2" Air-Gun on there and break her free that way. As soon as you do break it free, get some more PBBlaster in there to lube the threads.

Hit me back if you want any other tips or help.

KG

X-1Texas
03-23-2011, 11:07 AM
Thanks for all the tips. This site is great.

Last night I got back to work on the boat. Decided to go ahead and remove the seatback to have easier access, glad I did now b/c now I can clean up everything really well. This allowed me to put a big pipe on the wrench and I was able to remove the nut from the shaft. Mine didn't have a set screw at all. It was just really tight.

I then fabricated a puller out of some 1/4" steel plate and some longer bolts to try and pull the coupler off the shaft. So far it hasn't worked my puller ended up bending.

I have a piece 4130 cro-moly that I'm going to try tonight. It should make quite a bit stronger puller. I also tried all the tricks, like tapping the shaft on the prop end with a block of wood, tapping the coupler, etc.

wakescene
03-23-2011, 11:13 AM
If you have an Air-chisel that might help. Most of the shafts have a small hole on each end for chisel attachments and you can hammer away at it and perhaps break it free. Remember there is a key-way inside the coupler and it could be frozen as well, but you don't want to lose the key for it.

Question, why do you need to change the shaft? I had corrosion issues so it was obvious, your's is a fairly new boat. I am not questioning, just curious.

ncsone
03-23-2011, 11:48 AM
Some people have wedged a small socket between the shaft/coupler and the transmission coupler. Then, re-bolt the two couplers together. As you tighten the bolts, the socket forces the shaft out of the coupler. I just did that on my boat and it worked well, but I have a direct drive. Mine is an 05 and has a splined shaft and coupler, not a key.

X-1Texas
03-23-2011, 12:16 PM
My shaft actually has a small point sticking out from where is was machined and the cut off was done. It's a splined shaft, so it shouldn't have a key. I may put the nut back and leave the lip sticking out to get me something to put the air chisel against. Thanks for the air chisel idea.

Changing the shaft b/c I was changing prop and noticed the shaft had little wobble on the end. So I decided to change it out to make it all run true. I'll take the old shaft to a machine shop friend and have them straighten it. That way I have a spare.

ahhudgins
03-23-2011, 12:40 PM
Thanks for all the tips. This site is great.

Last night I got back to work on the boat. Decided to go ahead and remove the seatback to have easier access, glad I did now b/c now I can clean up everything really well. This allowed me to put a big pipe on the wrench and I was able to remove the nut from the shaft. Mine didn't have a set screw at all. It was just really tight.

I then fabricated a puller out of some 1/4" steel plate and some longer bolts to try and pull the coupler off the shaft. So far it hasn't worked my puller ended up bending.

I have a piece 4130 cro-moly that I'm going to try tonight. It should make quite a bit stronger puller. I also tried all the tricks, like tapping the shaft on the prop end with a block of wood, tapping the coupler, etc.

My 95 V-drive has the coupler mounted on the output side of the transmission just like a direct drive. I made a puller just as you did, and it also bent. I ended up doing as others have done and put a small piece of round bar on the end of the shaft and then installed the bolts back into the coupler and it came right out. I "believe" that if you use stronger metal for your puller as you suggested, it will work. Let that WD-40 soak for a while too. Good luck!

Barefooter92
03-23-2011, 12:47 PM
Stupid question...its not a left handed nut is it?

Only reason I ask is I have been known to spend hours on my truck only to find out I was turning the wrong way.

X-1Texas
03-23-2011, 02:55 PM
The left-handed nut was one of my first thoughts also. But to confirm it's NOT left hand thread. It was just extremely tight.

The round bar trick won't work with my set up. The end of the shaft sticks out through the coupler.

wakescene
03-23-2011, 03:59 PM
My shaft actually has a small point sticking out from where is was machined and the cut off was done. It's a splined shaft, so it shouldn't have a key. I may put the nut back and leave the lip sticking out to get me something to put the air chisel against. Thanks for the air chisel idea.

Changing the shaft b/c I was changing prop and noticed the shaft had little wobble on the end. So I decided to change it out to make it all run true. I'll take the old shaft to a machine shop friend and have them straighten it. That way I have a spare.

While you have the shaft out, check the Strut bearings for wear. It's the best time to replace them, especially since you mentioned a wobble. Skidim has just about anyone that you might need. http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1119

Good luck and keep us posted.

X-1Texas
03-23-2011, 10:30 PM
Success! I got it out tonight. First I tried the air chisel, then I straighten out my make-shift puller and put used my cro-moly piece with the old puller and that broke it loose. Maybe the combination of the vibration from the air chisel and then the tougher puller worked. Anyway it's out. If anyone wants to see the puller I can take a picture. It was pretty easy to make.

Skidim is awesome. I used them for all the parts I bought for my old boat ('89 Supra). I'm getting the new shaft through them, they are having it drop shipped to me. I also have a new strut that I bought from them. So when this is done I should be good.

Thanks to everyone for giving suggestions.

rgardjr1
04-02-2012, 02:04 PM
Success! I got it out tonight. First I tried the air chisel, then I straighten out my make-shift puller and put used my cro-moly piece with the old puller and that broke it loose. Maybe the combination of the vibration from the air chisel and then the tougher puller worked. Anyway it's out. If anyone wants to see the puller I can take a picture. It was pretty easy to make.

Skidim is awesome. I used them for all the parts I bought for my old boat ('89 Supra). I'm getting the new shaft through them, they are having it drop shipped to me. I also have a new strut that I bought from them. So when this is done I should be good.

Thanks to everyone for giving suggestions.

I took my swim platform off last weekend and noticed a problem with my strut bushing so it looks like I'm going to be doing this on an 2006 X-2. Any pictures you have would be greatly appreciated. I've found a couple of threads about around here about doing this on direct drive boats, but this is the only thread I came across dealing with a v-drive. I've got a call in to a mechanic we've used in the past to see what his m.o. is on this. I also talked with Eric at O.J. about what possible causes could be. When I bought my boat the previous owner delivered the drop in cooler the following spring and it had a dinged prop in it so this may be the result of the prop strike.

wakescene
04-02-2012, 02:38 PM
rgardjr1,
It's not a difficult job to do the strut bearings, even if you are not seasoned at it.

The main reasons I know of for replacement are:
1 - regular wear. Straight usage will cause wearing. I redid mine at about 400 hours.
2 - running boat in gear OUT OF THE WATER. This will heat up the bearings due to dry friction and prematurely wear the bearings. Infact, it is not recommended to to anything other then move the shaft by hand when the boat is our of the water.
3 - prop strike. I don't have a lot of experience here but I would guess this would never be good for the bearings, let alone the prop, shaft, strut, coupler, trans, motor.

FrankSchwab
04-02-2012, 03:01 PM
Once you get the strut/bearings and new propshaft installed, I'd follow the instructions attached to align the strut to the engine/transmission. I'd follow this set of instructions (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box) to repack the stuffing box with Gore-tex packing (or perhaps now would be a good time to invest in a PSS (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal)dripless seal.

Other than that, button'er up and go skiing.