View Full Version : pontoon stereo

03-08-2011, 09:37 PM
Im looking to replace the stereo in my toon. The head unit got fried and need to buy a new one anyways. While im at it im going to upgrade the speakers too. I have a amp and sub when I used to have them in my car. They are not marine but i dont care if they fry. Will normal stuff last long enough to make it worth it or should I just buy all new. Or should I just run the amp to the speakers and not even bother with the sub? All suggestions welcome including what head unit and speakers to buy. Thanks in advance.

03-09-2011, 12:32 PM
If your buying a new head unit I'd go with a marine one there, same goes for the in boat speakers. As far as the amps go, you'd probably be fine if you are on fresh water and you can find a good place to mount them where they will stay dry.

If you are putting a non marine sub in, you might want to consider a sealed box for it as opposed to ported, although many people are running them both ways.

I have 3 non-marine amps and a non-marine sub in a sealed box. I coated the box with fiberglass resin and and I have been fine so far.

Seeing as you already have the equipment I'd say 100% go for it, what have you got to lose?

03-11-2011, 07:44 AM
I am buying 4 kicker KM-6200 for inside speakers. Now what head unit should I buy. Im thinking the Boss Audio MR1560DI. It is at http://www.rocktheboataudio.com/html/54120.html. Anybody have this or know anything about it?

03-14-2011, 01:46 PM
I haven't heard too much about Boss Audio. I highly doubt that that head unit actually puts out a true 320 watts as claimed. That number sounds inflated to me. I tend not to go with the brands that artificially inflate their power output. I usually find most companies that follow those practices put out a lower quality product. Obviously this is a generalization and I have no experience with Boss Audio, so someone else on here might have some better insight.

I will say that I like the fact that it plays from a flash drive and has iPOD integration. I can't remember the last time I used a CD in my boat. I always use either a USB drive or an iPOD.

03-14-2011, 02:26 PM
I ended up ordering the head unit I put up the link for. I hope it puts out 320 watts because thats the main reason I bought it for. I ended up ordering everything from a place called www.vminnovations.com so everything could ship together. I think i spent an extra
$5 on the head unit to have it all ship together. It wasnt all that expensive so if I use it a year or so and find out i dont like it i can throw it away and get another one. My wife was kindof p!ssed at me for not getting one with a CD player. She lives in the year 2001. Havent so muched as touched a CD in 3-5 years.

03-22-2011, 07:43 AM
I have got everything hooked up and the amp/sub cuts out when bass hits. Anybody know whats goin on? According to my book under the alternator specs it says 13-amp, fully regulated. Could this be a problem? It doesnt overheat because it will do it 5 seconds after being turned on. Amp is a Rockford Fosgate punch 250.a2 and sub is a kenwood DB. 250 watts isnt that much so im really confused. Somebody out there have this problem

03-22-2011, 09:25 AM
Oh yea, when the amp kicks off the 4 6.5" speakers still work fine. It just takes a sec for the sub to kick back in.

03-22-2011, 03:36 PM
There are a couple of things that could cause that. The first thing I would check for is a dead or low battery. Amps will cut out exactly like you described that when the battery gets low.

What type of battery do you have?

Also another thing that can cause your problem it is trying to drive a too low of impedance speaker. Your amp is a two channel amp, are you running it bridged? If so that amp cannot support a 2 ohm load when bridged. Is your sub a dual voice coil? If so you might have it wired for 2 ohms. Can you post the specs for your sub?

One other potential problem I see is your alternator. You say it is only rated for 13 amps? That is only about 180watts or so. Your entire boat needs to be run off that wattage, not just the stereo. Your head unit will not put out 320 watts, probably more like 80-100 (optimistically). Your sub amp is a pretty good little amp and will probably draw quite a bit of power. So when you have your stereo to the max volume you might be using more power than your alternator can generate. This means that you are taking the extra power from your battery. You might want to consider a larger or 2nd battery. If you don't just be aware you might be draining your battery even when your motor is running - if your stereo is turned up loud. This problem is not unique to you, many people with very large stereos in their boat have this problem even if their alternators put out 100 amps. However if your battery is charged and in good condition you should not get the cutting out problem you are seeing, regardless of how many amps your alternator can put out.

03-22-2011, 06:13 PM
Got it. The wires giving it power from the factory were real small. So i went to the hardware and bought some pretty beefy wires and ran them to the battery instead of that little block for power. I rocked up to max volume. Thanks for the help shunra. Not sure what it means to be bridged but positive is from one channel and neg from the other channel. Buying a new battery soon. Any suggestions to just run one battery? Thinking about the deka intimidator 9a34m

03-23-2011, 04:19 PM
Yes it sounds like the amp was short on power. That makes sense.

Did you run the blue wire from your head unit to the amplifier so that the amp turns on and off with the stereo? I am guessing you did.

Also you should have a fuse in that new positive line that goes from your amp to the battery. Without a fuse you have a fire hazard, which is not fun on a boat. Choose a fuse that is slightly larger than the size of the fuse on the amplifier itself and put is as close to the battery as possible.

Yes it sounds like you have your amp bridged. Bridged basically means you are combining or "bridging" two channels of your amplifier into 1 channel in order to increase the output. For the amp you have, you can only do this when your subwoofer is 4 ohms or higher. My guess is you have a 4 ohm single voice coil sub so you are probably OK. Especially if a stereo shop sold you the combo together. I would hope they knew enough to check.

As far as batteries go, I don't have any experience with that exact battery. Maybe someone else here does. What you want to look for is a "deep cycle" battery. You shouldn't need a "starting battery". Deep cycle batteries will usually double as a starting battery just fine. Most marine batteries are deep cycle. Deep cycle just means that the battery is able to be repeatedly discharged and charged without damage. It is surprising but most starting batteries like the ones in cars will be damaged by a deep discharge and permanently loose a very significant amount of their capacity each time it happens. Deep cycle batteries are designed to withstand this.

You will want a battery with a large number of "amp hours" or "reserve capacity". To convert reserve capacity to amp hours divide by 2.4 and that should get you close. These numbers give you an idea of how much capacity the battery has. In other words it will tell you how long the battery will play the stereo for before it goes dead. Bigger number means more play time.

If your alternator only puts out 13 amps (outboard???) it will have a hard time charging that large battery after prolonged stereo use. If it is an option I would suggest putting the battery on an automatic charger when you get back to land whenever you suspect you have used a significant amount of the battery's capacity.