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bcampbe7
03-04-2011, 12:28 PM
2004 GMC Yukon XL with the 5.3L Flex Fuel. 105k miles (or so).

Yukon started having an issue on Wednesday. My wife drove about 20 miles from work to her parentís house to pick something up. She got back into the vehicle a few minutes later, started it and when she accelerated the vehicle sputtered. No power what-so-ever but would idle just fine. After a mile or so, it was fine. It was low on fuel, so she thought maybe that was it. Filled it up and everything seemed OK. Same thing happened yesterday. This time the issue didnít go away. She ended up making it home (barely) and parked the Yukon in the garage. I got home maybe 45 minutes later. The Yukon fired right up and drove like it never had an issue.

Any idea what would cause this? I am changing the fuel filter because that has never been done. Thinking it may be a clogged catalytic converter, but not sure if these symptoms portray that. Like I said, when I got home it was running fine.

Any ideas?

flipper
03-04-2011, 12:30 PM
I'd guess fuel filter. That's a lot of miles on a filter

KnoxX2
03-04-2011, 12:40 PM
Yep fule filter.

bcampbe7
03-04-2011, 12:42 PM
I'd guess fuel filter. That's a lot of miles on a filter

Yep fule filter.

Yeah, hoping it is just the fuel filter. I couldn't get the dang pressure fitting off (even bought the tool to do so). A mechanic that lives down the street from me is coming over this evening to help.

flipper
03-04-2011, 01:10 PM
Cut it :D

dog paw
03-04-2011, 02:03 PM
Now you have a full tank of fuel to deal with when you put the fuel pump in it. ;)

bcampbe7
03-04-2011, 03:06 PM
Now you have a full tank of fuel to deal with when you put the fuel pump in it. ;)

Yeah, I hope it is not the pump. If it is, I will not be doing the work myself. :)

JimN
03-04-2011, 03:31 PM
2004 GMC Yukon XL with the 5.3L Flex Fuel. 105k miles (or so).

Yukon started having an issue on Wednesday. My wife drove about 20 miles from work to her parent’s house to pick something up. She got back into the vehicle a few minutes later, started it and when she accelerated the vehicle sputtered. No power what-so-ever but would idle just fine. After a mile or so, it was fine. It was low on fuel, so she thought maybe that was it. Filled it up and everything seemed OK. Same thing happened yesterday. This time the issue didn’t go away. She ended up making it home (barely) and parked the Yukon in the garage. I got home maybe 45 minutes later. The Yukon fired right up and drove like it never had an issue.

Any idea what would cause this? I am changing the fuel filter because that has never been done. Thinking it may be a clogged catalytic converter, but not sure if these symptoms portray that. Like I said, when I got home it was running fine.

Any ideas?

Check the pressure and scan it for codes- you know the drill.

bcampbe7
03-04-2011, 03:54 PM
Check the pressure and scan it for codes- you know the drill.

Yeah, planning on checking fuel pressure and pre-cat exhaust pressure this evening. From what I have read, fuel pressure should be 55 psi and exhaust pressure should be no more tha like 2 lbs. Does that sound correct?

No MIL, but will check for codes too just to be sure.

Spoke to a muffler shop and he said if it was the Cat it would not go away. He thinks it is the fuel pump. I just thought if it was the fuel pump it would also be a go out and not come back type of thing. We shall see.

JimN
03-04-2011, 03:57 PM
Yeah, planning on checking fuel pressure and pre-cat exhaust pressure this evening. From what I have read, fuel pressure should be 55 psi and exhaust pressure should be no more tha like 2 lbs. Does that sound correct?

No MIL, but will check for codes too just to be sure.

Here, AutoZone will do a code check and if you have O'Reilly's Auto Parts near you, I think they do that, too. Do you have any problems with fuel quality, where you are? I have no idea what the exhaust pressure should be.

bcampbe7
03-04-2011, 04:00 PM
Here, AutoZone will do a code check and if you have O'Reilly's Auto Parts near you, I think they do that, too. Do you have any problems with fuel quality, where you are? I have no idea what the exhaust pressure should be.

Never have a problem with fuel. I use the premium from Shell in both of my vehicles.

liledgy
03-04-2011, 06:48 PM
Dirty injectors?

Jerseydave
03-04-2011, 07:20 PM
Your a bad, bad Chevy owner for not changing your fuel filter until now.

Even worse, you let your tank go down near empty allowing the fuel pump to run hot.

^I'm just busting on you........but you may be buying a fuel pump.

Like JimN said, diagnose it first.

bcampbe7
03-04-2011, 11:44 PM
My wife just gave me some more information. The Yukon only acted up when in gear. She put it in park at a spotlight and it rev'ed fine.

JimN
03-05-2011, 12:09 AM
My wife just gave me some more information. The Yukon only acted up when in gear. She put it in park at a spotlight and it rev'ed fine.

That's the same main symptom when the screen on the older MCs was clogged- on the trailer, it was OK but under load, it ran like a stove.

JohnnyB
03-05-2011, 09:57 AM
That generation of Chevy typically saw the fuel pumps needing replacement at a bit over 100,000 miles. I owned two of them and it was crazy how close in miles they were to each other when the pumps died.....about 110K.

That being said, one of them showed the symptoms you're describing -- would occassionally surge/lose power and then be fine for months. The first time it quit, I had it towed to my buddy's shop and he dropped it off the tow truck and it started right up.

The second time it "completely died" I wrapped the tank with a rubber mallet a few times and the pump ran another couple of months.

I did change the fuel filter, check diagnostic codes, fuel pressure, etc.

You may want to throw a rubber mallet in your tool kit. Or you could be proactive and run the tank near empty and change the pump. The pumps always seem to die when the tank is full :mad:

The pumps are similar to the ones in the MCs. They are fuel lubricated and , iirc, the pumping mechanism is at the bottom of the tank where it picks up all the debris, etc.

best of luck on the situation.

MIMC
03-05-2011, 11:27 AM
BCampbe -

If I'm not mistaken the fuel filter is integral to the tank, now part of the fuel pump module assembly. I need to check my notes but I thought in the 2001 time frame GM was forced to internal to the tank fuel filters. Fed's required 25% reduction in potential fuel leaks, placing a high capacity filter in the tank eliminated two potential leak points. Not a popular decision, but the filter is a high capacity filter, even at 85% clogged you still get proper volume and flow rate. I'm assuming the check engine light came on, if it did a trouble code should have been set - please start there before repalcing parts. Highly doubt cat converter - we (GM) typically didn't have issues for those GMT800 trucks. It could be a fuel pump, but I'm not sold it's a pump. If you need more help please feel free to IM me. Thanks and good luck, also sorry you are having issues!

MIMC (Lee)

MIMC
03-05-2011, 11:50 AM
Bcampbe -

Do you have the L59 engine? If yes, then you still have an external fuel filter. If yes to the L59 then I highly recommend fuel filter replacment as your first step. Needs to be done at 105k miles anyway - will also help eliminate it as "suspect" if other things are causing the condition. You can identify which engine you have by looking at the SPID label (service part identification). It will be in your glove box or door jamb, it will have all your option codes for your vehicle. Or you could provide me the VIN and I can look it up. Good luck!

MIMC

1redTA
03-05-2011, 12:14 PM
the fuel level in the GM trucks has a lot to do with fuel pump life, fuel is used to cool the pump. I try to not go below 1/4 tank.

A simple pressure check will usually tell all
definately change the filter after changing the pump let the old one catch what lets lose
It is easier on the pickup trucks to remove the bed than the tank to change the pump
A tank is always full when the pump goes out
By AC DELCO not airtex from autozone I hadnt put the cherry picker up yet from changing the pump when the "new" one let out

liledgy
03-05-2011, 02:22 PM
My 2003 suburban has the filter on the frame rail. My 2004 silverado has no external fuel filter. Both are 6.0, 4x4 and 3/4 ton. My suburban started acting up, barely idling almost dieing when coasting to a stop sign. The alternator gauge started dropping. After testing battery and alternator I took it to a friend of mine who teaches auto mechanics. He said my injectors were very dirty. Took em apart and cleaned them with a toothbrush. He said thatwhen the car was barely idling it would cut the spark to the alternator causing the gauge to read low. Runs great now.

dtc
03-05-2011, 03:17 PM
I'll add my name to the list of guys saying change that fuel pump ... I have a '01 Tahoe and mine hung in there until 150k miles. But when it goes it's not a good experience ... specially on a mountainous winding road headed down to the lake with a boat behind you! I routinely used to run down to the low fuel level message, however since my pump change I have become a reformed owner. When I'm less than a 1/4 tank I can hear the pump howling upon pressurizing the system during start-up. Best of luck !

DooSPX
03-07-2011, 10:20 AM
Its either the fuel filter or the fuel pump.... Been there, done that on many LS based trucks...

Barefooter92
03-07-2011, 01:04 PM
Fuel Pump. Mine lasted 145K. Put a pressure gauge on it. The port is on the inside frame rail just below the drivers door.

bcampbe7
03-08-2011, 02:46 PM
Thanks for all of the replies. I will check the pressure. MIMC, not sure on the L59. I will check the SPID, but it is a 2004 Yukon with 5.3L. The fuel filter is on the driver's side frame rail.

I changed the fuel filter (had to cut it off) and changed plugs and wires. I also checked for codes and there were none.

So far, so good. Have put about 70 miles on since making these changes, so we shall see. We are getting ready for a 6 hour drive coming up. Murphy's law says that if something is going to happen, it will happen while we are the furthest from home.

Fuel pump is such a pain to do on this Yukon from what I have read. Have to drop the tank. Maybe I should go ahead and do it before our trip to eliminate that possibility.

Jabrew
03-08-2011, 03:50 PM
You might think its crazy but I had a similar experience with the car running fine but a certain times would seem to loose all power . This went on for months, we checked everything until one day it stopped going all together. Turns out it was the transmission.

bcampbe7
03-08-2011, 03:57 PM
You might think its crazy but I had a similar experience with the car running fine but a certain times would seem to loose all power . This went on for months, we checked everything until one day it stopped going all together. Turns out it was the transmission.

Transmission crossed my mind because of the fact that it would rev fine when in park, but not when in drive. I am not sure how the "limp home mode" works on this vehicle though. I am having trouble finding information on that particular feature.

What about a simple battery or alternator issue? Battery is a 4-5 year old Optima red top. I will have it checked, but if it isn't supplying enough voltage, weird things can happen, no? Low voltage to pump equals low injector pressure.

ProStar190Fan
03-08-2011, 05:34 PM
Transmission crossed my mind because of the fact that it would rev fine when in park, but not when in drive. I am not sure how the "limp home mode" works on this vehicle though. I am having trouble finding information on that particular feature.

What about a simple battery or alternator issue? Battery is a 4-5 year old Optima red top. I will have it checked, but if it isn't supplying enough voltage, weird things can happen, no? Low voltage to pump equals low injector pressure.

Could be low voltage, when my 01 had the alt fail and it would act just as you described in your first post. Are you on your first alternator and battery or have these been replaced?

Sodar
03-08-2011, 05:53 PM
Rumor has it the issue is with the wheels. Stockers just don't work. American Eagle 22's ordered from the FNG, should fix you right up!

bcampbe7
03-08-2011, 06:01 PM
Could be low voltage, when my 01 had the alt fail and it would act just as you described in your first post. Are you on your first alternator and battery or have these been replaced?

Original alternator, battery is 4-5 years old.

Rumor has it the issue is with the wheels. Stockers just don't work. American Eagle 22's ordered from the FNG, should fix you right up!

I don't have that kind of time.

DooSPX
03-08-2011, 07:36 PM
I have had all the above.. PCM's limp home mode, dead/dying alternator, toasted and blown trannies and what you described sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Do not make any long distance trips till you get it fixed. I have been there too...:mad: to say it sucks is an understatement.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-08-2011, 07:50 PM
There are 4 guys in my shop with that vintage gm truck all of them needed fuel pump modules at around 100k miles.

bcampbe7
03-09-2011, 10:03 PM
Took the Yukon by the dealership. They ran a series of tests and checked with the Tech II and found nothing out of the norm. Fuel pressure was perfect.

I still think I have a clogged or restricted Catalytic converter. I did a temp test and the drivers side Cat showed the same temp before and after the Cat (about 155*F). The passenger side showed a higher temp before and about 60+* F less after the Cat (222*F before versus 155* after). Should be close to the same, no?

cbryan70
03-09-2011, 10:06 PM
If your cat is clogged your engine temp will be up as well....at least that is what happend when my cat got clogged....also losted ALOT of power.

Just throw some new rims on it.....it will fix itself

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-09-2011, 10:17 PM
Took the Yukon by the dealership. They ran a series of tests and checked with the Tech II and found nothing out of the norm. Fuel pressure was perfect.

I still think I have a clogged or restricted Catalytic converter. I did a temp test and the drivers side Cat showed the same temp before and after the Cat (about 155*F). The passenger side showed a higher temp before and about 60+* F less after the Cat (222*F before versus 155* after). Should be close to the same, no?

There is a couple of people at my shop with similiar trucks, I will temp check their trucks tomorrow and let you know what theirs read.

bcampbe7
03-09-2011, 10:21 PM
There is a couple of people at my shop with similiar trucks, I will temp check their trucks tomorrow and let you know what theirs read.


Cool, thanks James!

Truck was also warmed up (I had just gotten home from work).

bcampbe7
03-10-2011, 10:38 AM
I still think I have a clogged or restricted Catalytic converter. I did a temp test and the drivers side Cat showed the same temp before and after the Cat (about 155*F). The passenger side showed a higher temp before and about 60+* F less after the Cat (222*F before versus 155* after). Should be close to the same, no?

Yes, I am quoting myself. :)



To add to the above. When I run a test on the O2 sensors the driver's side (Bank 1) sensors are doing their normal voltage ocillation. The passenger side (Bank 2) are both showing a constant 1.0v (failed in the rich state). This is the same side as the catalytic converter with the temp difference. I will replace the Bank 2 O2 sensors, but do you think the damage to the cat is already done? Again, no codes or nothing!

JimN
03-10-2011, 11:42 AM
Yes, I am quoting myself. :)



To add to the above. When I run a test on the O2 sensors the driver's side (Bank 1) sensors are doing their normal voltage ocillation. The passenger side (Bank 2) are both showing a constant 1.0v (failed in the rich state). This is the same side as the catalytic converter with the temp difference. I will replace the Bank 2 O2 sensors, but do you think the damage to the cat is already done? Again, no codes or nothing!

Check the compression and vacuum first. If you have a leak on the rich side, you'll be throwing your money away. Why not swap the O2 sensors and see if the symptom goes with the one you suspect?

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-10-2011, 12:03 PM
Yes, I am quoting myself. :)



To add to the above. When I run a test on the O2 sensors the driver's side (Bank 1) sensors are doing their normal voltage ocillation. The passenger side (Bank 2) are both showing a constant 1.0v (failed in the rich state). This is the same side as the catalytic converter with the temp difference. I will replace the Bank 2 O2 sensors, but do you think the damage to the cat is already done? Again, no codes or nothing!

I checked those trucks and all of them have a temp split of between 40 & 80 degrees running on both sides even checked my f150 & there is a temp difference and none of these trucks have issues, I would be more concerned with your o2 responses if you wanna check cats simply unbolt from manifolds and see if trucks improves, I have checked cats in the past this way when there is no codes. A cats code will be P0420 bamk 1 and bank 2 will be P0430.

bcampbe7
03-10-2011, 12:31 PM
I checked those trucks and all of them have a temp split of between 40 & 80 degrees running on both sides even checked my f150 & there is a temp difference and none of these trucks have issues, I would be more concerned with your o2 responses if you wanna check cats simply unbolt from manifolds and see if trucks improves, I have checked cats in the past this way when there is no codes. A cats code will be P0420 bamk 1 and bank 2 will be P0430.

So the cats you checked have a higher temp pre-cat than post-cat? From everything I have read, it should be close to the same or even higher post-cat.

bcampbe7
03-10-2011, 12:33 PM
Check the compression and vacuum first. If you have a leak on the rich side, you'll be throwing your money away. Why not swap the O2 sensors and see if the symptom goes with the one you suspect?

My thoughts too. I am planning on replacing the Bank 2 O2 sensors (the ones that were reading wrong) once I verify that they are indeed reading wrong and it wasn't something I was doing wrong (impossible :) ). My gas mileage is not any worse than normal. If anything it is better after the plug and wire change. Also, there are no codes. I would assume a code if the O2 sensors are bad.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-10-2011, 01:36 PM
So the cats you checked have a higher temp pre-cat than post-cat? From everything I have read, it should be close to the same or even higher post-cat.

Yes precat temp was higher checking next to front o2 sensors than postcat temp when checking next to rear o2 sensors my f150 was the same. That model truck also have intake gaaket issues thats cause vacuum leaks making it run poorly under load.

captain planet
03-10-2011, 01:43 PM
Ugh, reading all of this makes me cringe with what I have to look forward to with my 2000 Suburban with 125K on it. :(:noface:

MIMC
03-10-2011, 01:50 PM
Beau -

If you had a "dead" O2 sensor it should have set a code? As stated by James, temp difference pre and post cat is normal. I don't think the suspect O2 sensor did any damage to the cat. Replace or clean the "lazy" O2 - otherwise I still think it was your fuel filter, especially since it hasn't acted up since then. Not a bad idea to check for vacuum leaks, etc. It's a 5.3 gen engine, but what specific engine do you have? L59? I'm going to reply to your email with more info.

Lee

bcampbe7
03-10-2011, 02:05 PM
Yes precat temp was higher checking next to front o2 sensors than postcat temp when checking next to rear o2 sensors my f150 was the same. That model truck also have intake gaaket issues thats cause vacuum leaks making it run poorly under load.

I found that out yesterday. Any way to check this?



Beau -

If you had a "dead" O2 sensor it should have set a code? As stated by James, temp difference pre and post cat is normal. I don't think the suspect O2 sensor did any damage to the cat. Replace or clean the "lazy" O2 - otherwise I still think it was your fuel filter, especially since it hasn't acted up since then. Not a bad idea to check for vacuum leaks, etc. It's a 5.3 gen engine, but what specific engine do you have? L59? I'm going to reply to your email with more info.

Lee

I forgot to check the glove box for the engine code. :o

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-10-2011, 02:43 PM
While trucks is running spray carb cleaner around the front, rear and sides of intake around the base, if there is a leak thre carb spray will be injested and the rpm's should increase momentarily. Now some of these gm intakes leak internally toward the valley and this method will not work.

bcampbe7
03-10-2011, 02:50 PM
While trucks is running spray carb cleaner around the front, rear and sides of intake around the base, if there is a leak thre carb spray will be injested and the rpm's should increase momentarily. Now some of these gm intakes leak internally toward the valley and this method will not work.

Will do... I am assuming a very small amount of carb cleaner is enough?

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-10-2011, 02:53 PM
Will do... I am assuming a very small amount of carb cleaner is enough?

Just a couple of sprays in each area you are checking is all that is necessary but to much won't hurt anything.

bcampbe7
03-10-2011, 02:55 PM
Cool, thanks James!

bcampbe7
03-10-2011, 11:53 PM
Beau -

If you had a "dead" O2 sensor it should have set a code? As stated by James, temp difference pre and post cat is normal. I don't think the suspect O2 sensor did any damage to the cat. Replace or clean the "lazy" O2 - otherwise I still think it was your fuel filter, especially since it hasn't acted up since then. Not a bad idea to check for vacuum leaks, etc. It's a 5.3 gen engine, but what specific engine do you have? L59? I'm going to reply to your email with more info.

Lee

Yes, it is the L59.

bcampbe7
03-10-2011, 11:54 PM
While trucks is running spray carb cleaner around the front, rear and sides of intake around the base, if there is a leak thre carb spray will be injested and the rpm's should increase momentarily. Now some of these gm intakes leak internally toward the valley and this method will not work.

Did the carb cleaner trick. No change in rpm's.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-10-2011, 11:56 PM
Does it still act up on you or has is straightened itself out?

bcampbe7
03-11-2011, 12:04 AM
Does it still act up on you or has is straightened itself out?

Running perfectly fine. Has since I got home from work just after my wife had the problem.

Sucks cause we are going on a road trip soon and will be driving the Yukon. 6 hour drive each way.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-11-2011, 12:12 AM
Running perfectly fine. Has since I got home from work just after my wife had the problem.

Sucks cause we are going on a road trip soon and will be driving the Yukon. 6 hour drive each way.

My vote it was the fuel filter, unfortunately youre in a wait and see mode, hopefully its all good.

bcampbe7
03-11-2011, 08:39 AM
I hope your right. :)

We have driven the Yukon 200 miles since this started with no hicups what-so-ever.

I also rechecked the O2 sensors and the pre-cat sensors are oscillating normally. The post-cat sensors are the ones that stay around 0.7v and do not change much at all. I assume this is telling me that the cats are working as they should and removing hydrocarbons and oxygen, hence the nearly constant higher voltage.

Getting nearly 19mpg on the computer. Was around 15 before this all started.

Someone asked me if the pump is making a high pitched noise or anything. I do hear the pump when I turn the key. It sounds like a normal electric motor kicking on to me. No whistling, grinding, screaming (except from me), etc.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-11-2011, 10:00 AM
I hope your right. :)

We have driven the Yukon 200 miles since this started with no hicups what-so-ever.

I also rechecked the O2 sensors and the pre-cat sensors are oscillating normally. The post-cat sensors are the ones that stay around 0.7v and do not change much at all. I assume this is telling me that the cats are working as they should and removing hydrocarbons and oxygen, hence the nearly constant higher voltage.

Getting nearly 19mpg on the computer. Was around 15 before this all started.

Someone asked me if the pump is making a high pitched noise or anything. I do hear the pump when I turn the key. It sounds like a normal electric motor kicking on to me. No whistling, grinding, screaming (except from me), etc.

That is the way o2 sensors work just reporting whats going on inside the converters when the readings are the same the cats are inefficient and need to be replaced.

bcampbe7
03-11-2011, 10:12 AM
We will be traveling from Nashville, TN area to St Louis. Do you make road side house calls? Houston is close to Illinois, right? :D


Thanks for the help, all. I appreciate it! :cool:

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-11-2011, 11:16 AM
We will be traveling from Nashville, TN area to St Louis. Do you make road side house calls? Houston is close to Illinois, right? :D


Thanks for the help, all. I appreciate it! :cool:

Sure I can be there in 14 hours:cool:

bcampbe7
03-21-2011, 05:06 PM
Yukon performed flawlessly on our trip to St Louis.

Thanks to all for your help.

MIMC
03-22-2011, 02:27 PM
Glad the Yukon performed as she should! Don't hesitate to contact me with future questions - hopefully not issues! :o

bcampbe7
03-29-2011, 05:54 PM
Anyone ever feel like they are on the verge of driving a money pit? I am almost there. :)

I did say that they Yukon performed without hicup while on our trip to St Louis and back. The only thing I did notice was a slight ticking noise that seemed to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. I couldn't hear it inside the vehicle, only while standing ouside while the vehicle was idling. It sounds exactly like the exhaust leak that my 99 Land Rover had at the gasket between the manifold and downpipe. Maybe that is all it is. But, I have noticed some white smoke from the tailpipe. Condesation like and DOES NOT smell like burnt coolant. It is not terribly cold hear (55*F) so I wouldn't think it is the normal cold morning smoke. It has rained quite-a-bit so maybe just the humidity. Notice it mostly when sitting idle for 5-10 minutes. I would say we do tend to sit and idle more than normal as the kids watch movies while my wife runs in to grab something at a store or whatnot. I tend to let the car idle so they can watch their movie and not kill the battery.

Are the ticking, smoke and previous rough running related?

I suppose my next step is a compression check and coolant pressure check, correct?

MIMC
03-29-2011, 06:07 PM
beau -

Is this a new noise? I find it hard to believe ticking and previous issues are related. I also question if you have smoke or condensation coming from the exhaust. Really need to determine what "smoke" you actually have - if any. I will IM you later to discuss more. If anything check compression for possible lifter/valve issue - but I doubt it. Will be interesting to see what the rest of the group says on here.

MIMC

liledgy
03-29-2011, 08:27 PM
My suburban had a tick that came came and went. Under warranty the dealer changed the oil pump. When that didn't help they determined that the flywheel had a crack in it. A couple of months ago it cracked again. The dealer installed one lasted about 5 years. This vehicle is driven by my wife 95% of the time with zero towing. My friend who fixed it recently said that gm had a problem with the flywheels of that vintage (2003).

bcampbe7
03-30-2011, 12:23 AM
beau -

Is this a new noise? I find it hard to believe ticking and previous issues are related. I also question if you have smoke or condensation coming from the exhaust. Really need to determine what "smoke" you actually have - if any. I will IM you later to discuss more. If anything check compression for possible lifter/valve issue - but I doubt it. Will be interesting to see what the rest of the group says on here.

MIMC


Yes, new noise that I noticed while in St Louis. I really think it is the gasket between the manifold and down pipe. Sound is coming from that vicinity. I plan on checking that out this weekend. Looks pretty accessible from under the vehicle.


My suburban had a tick that came came and went. Under warranty the dealer changed the oil pump. When that didn't help they determined that the flywheel had a crack in it. A couple of months ago it cracked again. The dealer installed one lasted about 5 years. This vehicle is driven by my wife 95% of the time with zero towing. My friend who fixed it recently said that gm had a problem with the flywheels of that vintage (2003).

That sounds expensive! :(

Sodar
03-30-2011, 12:27 AM
It's gotta be those stock wheels. FNG told me he could have you a new set in 2 WEEKS!

brad
03-30-2011, 12:56 AM
Had the same symptons on our 02 chevy and through all the test thinking it was fuel filter and or pump come to find out we had a split in a spark plug wire.Start vehicle and take spray bottle and lightly spray on wires (works better with less light) if you see a spark jumping problem solved.

JimN
03-30-2011, 03:09 AM
Anyone ever feel like they are on the verge of driving a money pit? I am almost there. :)

I did say that they Yukon performed without hicup while on our trip to St Louis and back. The only thing I did notice was a slight ticking noise that seemed to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. I couldn't hear it inside the vehicle, only while standing ouside while the vehicle was idling. It sounds exactly like the exhaust leak that my 99 Land Rover had at the gasket between the manifold and downpipe. Maybe that is all it is. But, I have noticed some white smoke from the tailpipe. Condesation like and DOES NOT smell like burnt coolant. It is not terribly cold hear (55*F) so I wouldn't think it is the normal cold morning smoke. It has rained quite-a-bit so maybe just the humidity. Notice it mostly when sitting idle for 5-10 minutes. I would say we do tend to sit and idle more than normal as the kids watch movies while my wife runs in to grab something at a store or whatnot. I tend to let the car idle so they can watch their movie and not kill the battery.

Are the ticking, smoke and previous rough running related?

I suppose my next step is a compression check and coolant pressure check, correct?

If you can make sure the noise occurs on a regular basis, watch it in the dark- you may have a cross-fire issue.

captain planet
03-30-2011, 01:07 PM
Anyone ever feel like they are on the verge of driving a money pit? I am almost there. :)

I did say that they Yukon performed without hicup while on our trip to St Louis and back. The only thing I did notice was a slight ticking noise that seemed to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. I couldn't hear it inside the vehicle, only while standing ouside while the vehicle was idling. It sounds exactly like the exhaust leak that my 99 Land Rover had at the gasket between the manifold and downpipe. Maybe that is all it is. But, I have noticed some white smoke from the tailpipe. Condesation like and DOES NOT smell like burnt coolant. It is not terribly cold hear (55*F) so I wouldn't think it is the normal cold morning smoke. It has rained quite-a-bit so maybe just the humidity. Notice it mostly when sitting idle for 5-10 minutes. I would say we do tend to sit and idle more than normal as the kids watch movies while my wife runs in to grab something at a store or whatnot. I tend to let the car idle so they can watch their movie and not kill the battery.

Are the ticking, smoke and previous rough running related?

I suppose my next step is a compression check and coolant pressure check, correct?

I do, unfortunately my 2000 Suburban has been paid off since 2009 so I don't want another vehicle payment. I shudder to think what lies ahead of me with my pos truck. :mad::(

JimN
03-30-2011, 01:55 PM
I do, unfortunately my 2000 Suburban has been paid off since 2009 so I don't want another vehicle payment. I shudder to think what lies ahead of me with my pos truck. :mad::(

At 55 degrees, I would expect some water vapor at startup and if it smells normal, I doubt it's a leak in the head gasket. I would look at the coolant at startup to see if you have bubbles- if you do, it could be leaking into the water passages and sending the compression loss into the coolant. You won't necessarily see oil in the coolant when this happens.

I asked about crossfire- I had this and yours has higher voltage from the coils than mine does, which makes arcing easier. Mine did the same thing- ticking that coincided with a stumble.

bcampbe7
03-31-2011, 02:23 PM
Seems to run perfectly fine. I replaced the plugs and wires when I did the fuel filter back when this all started. Could still be a bad wire causing the ticking I suppose, even though these are new wires. I will check them.

I do, unfortunately my 2000 Suburban has been paid off since 2009 so I don't want another vehicle payment. I shudder to think what lies ahead of me with my pos truck. :mad::(

Agreed! Our Yukon has been paid off for a few years now and we DO NOT want a car payment (ever again if we can help it).