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aaron.
03-02-2011, 01:12 PM
Howdy guys. I've done a few searches to find the answer to my question, but to no avail, i haven't found a thread covering this. My apologies if I missed it.

My 2003 197TT has 3 amplifiers, one running the wetsounds on the tower, another for the subs, and another for the cabin speakers. Except they are all wired to run full-time. I want to install switches to the remote wires, so that i can turn on/off specific amplifiers. My buddy has factory switches for his amps, that are labeled Amplifier 1, Amplifier 2, etc... They are the standard black toggles that came on the 2003 boats.

My questions:

a) where can i buy these switches?
b) if they are wired only to the remote wire (from the stereo deck), how do you run the power to the switch to light up the red indicator when the switch is turned on? Or are there toggles with no indicator lights?


Again, I apologize if this is redundant. I'm a mechanical & electrical moron. Muchas Gracias!
:D

ColdTurkey
03-02-2011, 05:14 PM
You could use any switch you'd like really, as long as it hold its on or off position and isn't momentary. You could just put them in a less obvious spot.

If you want factory switches,.. no idea where to look but I'm sure others here will know.

No matter which switches you get just wire them between the cd player and the remote line on the amp as you've said. When you turn on the ignition the light on the amp switch should light up. I don't think you'd need a separate power source for it as the CD remote out is 12+. You could always hook up a little LED or low power globe in line with the remote wire to test it.

aaron.
03-02-2011, 05:28 PM
cool thank you. i wasn't sure how the remote line worked, if it was constant juice, or if it just sent a one-time signal to the amp...

I have a call in to my local MC dealer, to see if he can order some factory switches. Waiting for a reply.

hoping to keep my boat looking 100% factory. the gentleman I bought my boat from kept it in flawless condition, looks like it rolled off the factory floor yesterday. I plan to continue that tradition. :D

EarmarkMarine
03-02-2011, 05:32 PM
Since these switches will be carrying only the slightest amount of current you are free to use just about any switch that will fit or look right to you. If you are triggering three amplifiers plus a line driver or an EQ, then I would definitely convert the source unit turn-on trigger to a relay and then divide up the relay via switches or to the various electronics. The reason for this is that the circuit board traces for the source unit's trigger are extremely thin. So as a precaution its best to remove any chance of too much current passing through that circuit. We set the limit to three components.

David
Earmark Marine

aaron.
03-02-2011, 05:47 PM
holy moly. thats way over my head.

my plan, thus far, was to just tap into the three remote lines.

EarmarkMarine
03-02-2011, 06:27 PM
And, that's all good as long as its limited to three. So stay on course if that's the case.

David
Earmark Marine

shunra
03-02-2011, 06:58 PM
And, that's all good as long as its limited to three. So stay on course if that's the case.

David
Earmark Marine

What if he uses illuminated switches? Do they draw current from the switched wire or from another source? I think the output of the remote wire from the deck is current limited. So I am just wondering if driving 3 lights on illuminated switches and 3 amps would be problematic?


Aaron what is the end goal you are trying to achieve? There may be simpler ways to achieve what you want.

ColdTurkey
03-02-2011, 08:40 PM
If his head unit is already running the 3 amps I don't see a problem at all. The draw from the light in the switches would be so low it wouldn't affect it. The amps also only draw just enough power to switch themselves on (internal relay) I agree that if you were running a massive system you'd want to use the remote line to switch an external relay for the amps but for 3,... not really a problem.

I seriously doubt the illuminated switches would have their own live input, I'm pretty well certain they'll just draw the power from the switch feed. Maybe If they were switching earth they would need their own feed, but, even then I think their draw would be so low they probably won't.

aaron - The remote is off when the ignition is off and then is + as long as the headunit and ignition is on (it's not a pulse on / off situation)

aaron.
03-03-2011, 09:15 AM
nice, thanks coldturkey. (btw, i'm still up for adoption, that x80 is looking quite treat! haha)

@Shunra, i have two battery's on a selector switch. so for now, i've just been turning off one battery while i'm parked listening to tunes and keeping the other battery fresh for the engine...but even that doesn't last long because of how much juice is running through my system. I was hoping to have the capability to turn off some of the system while i'm parked. We do a lot of sandbar rocking out, and i'm not a big fan of tanking batteries repeatedly. wiring in switches may be over-kill, i agree, but i'm to OCD not to try.

Thrall
03-03-2011, 11:22 AM
Don't let your drunk buddies start flipping amp switches when the stereo is cranked full blast!
If I were to add switches I'd put a little panel in an inconspicuous place.
Why not just run the cockpit speakers and sub off of the front outputs and tower amp off the rear outputs? Then you could just fade to one or the other and wouldn't be drawing much amperage off the amp(s) that were faded out.

EarmarkMarine
03-03-2011, 05:01 PM
Each amplifier will draw several amps while in the idle mode so even when they're turned all the way down its like having a couple of DC courtesy lights burning.

ColdTurkey
03-03-2011, 05:12 PM
How old are you? I'm 26 so if there isn't much of an age gap I think it'd raise a few eyebrows if I did adopt you :) HAHA Besides, between the X80, building custom cars and my other hobbies (women and drinking beer) I can barely afford to feed myself let alone an adopted son. Actually I'm having a hard time picking which of those is costing me the most.

Anyway, even if he fades down the noise on an amp it'll still draw a fair bit of power. Not as much as it would if it were running speakers but it would still put a dent in his battery power.

I think the switches are the way to go but exactly like Thrall said, don't go playing with them when you've got it cranked, could cause problems.

I know you want to keep it original and that's great but consider stashing them somewhere out of the way.

Throw up some pics of your setup, sounds good.

ColdTurkey
03-03-2011, 05:18 PM
Each amplifier will draw several amps while in the idle mode so even when they're turned all the way down its like having a couple of DC courtesy lights burning.

What he said. :D

David, have you tested the draw on any amps while they are on but not running speakers? I've never actually bothered to test it but would be really interested to know.

I know that most amps main power relay will switch on as soon as they see signal from the remote line but I have seen that a few newer models of digital amps (can't remember which ones) that will actually cut their main power relay if they don't receive an input signal for a little while, so they'd probably draw bugger all.

aaron.
03-03-2011, 05:21 PM
How old are you? I'm 26 so if there isn't much of an age gap I think it'd raise a few eyebrows if I did adopt you :) HAHA Besides, between the X80, building custom cars and my other hobbies (women and drinking beer) I can barely afford to feed myself let alone an adopted son. Actually I'm having a hard time picking which of those is costing me the most.

hahaha **** man, i'm 27. i don't think the adoption agency would let that one slide. :( bummer

aaron.
03-03-2011, 05:38 PM
oh yeah, and my dealer called me back. MasterCraft said 'no dice' on the factory amplifier switches...so i just ordered up some "accessory" switches, with the red indicator light.

My plan is to install them down by the drivers right knee, on the factory switch panel, where the ballast switches would be (if I had ballast). Hopefully have everything I need, and the time to install by next week. I'll post my findings.

Thank you gentlemen for all the advise.

Cheers

Thrall
03-03-2011, 05:47 PM
Good luck with the project.
La Crosse? You know the Hood family, Mike Hood? They had an X star, now X2 on the river.

aaron.
03-03-2011, 05:56 PM
oh yeah, i grew up with those boys. Mike is a year younger than me, and his brother chris is one year older. great guys. their x2 is a beautiful boat

JimN
03-03-2011, 06:09 PM
oh yeah, and my dealer called me back. MasterCraft said 'no dice' on the factory amplifier switches...so i just ordered up some "accessory" switches, with the red indicator light.

My plan is to install them down by the drivers right knee, on the factory switch panel, where the ballast switches would be (if I had ballast). Hopefully have everything I need, and the time to install by next week. I'll post my findings.

Thank you gentlemen for all the advise.

Cheers

You don't plan to switch the main power wire, do you? Those switches won't be able to handle the current.

ColdTurkey
03-03-2011, 06:12 PM
You don't plan to switch the main power wire, do you? Those switches won't be able to handle the current.

No he's switching the remote wire.

JimN
03-03-2011, 06:25 PM
No he's switching the remote wire.

That's what I was wondering. Thanks.

EarmarkMarine
03-03-2011, 10:28 PM
ColdTurkey,
Nope. Never measured the draw when the amplifier is switched on but turned down. Many amplifiers give an 'idle current' specification. And if its in print it must be true. Right?

David
Earmark Marine

ColdTurkey
03-03-2011, 10:58 PM
And if its in print it must be true. Right?

:) Just like everything you see on the net and TV ;)