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View Full Version : 93' Prostar 205 Getting two batteries help!!


shocker47
02-28-2011, 07:55 PM
I got a 1993 prostar 205. Right now i have one battery. I have a amp firing 4 speakers in the boat and I'm going to get tower speakers. How can i hook up two batteries, one for boating and the other for chilling while listening to music?? HELP!

brucemac
02-28-2011, 07:57 PM
surepower 1314 or blue sea acr

shocker47
02-28-2011, 08:03 PM
How do i wire everything and hook it all up?

east tx skier
02-28-2011, 08:14 PM
Are you going to be doing a lot of sitting at anchor listening to tunes? You didn't mention a separate amp for tower speakers, but if you are just listening while riding, a separate battery with one amp is not a must. Even with two amps, unless you are doing a lot of listening with the engine off, it may not be necessary.

milkmania
02-28-2011, 08:24 PM
my idea would be
1) cranking battery for primary
2) Deep Cycle battery for audio, (since the point is to run it down, then charge back up)


bad idea?

shocker47
02-28-2011, 08:32 PM
I will have the tower amp'd and in the future maybe a third amp with a subwoofer. And yes i will be doing a lot of listening to music while the boat is off. I was watching vids and is this how wiring goes?
Positive wire from first battery to second Battery, Then Positive from 2nd going to amp. Then separate grounds? Also what is a good battery to buy and where to buy?

jafo9
02-28-2011, 08:59 PM
last off season, i installed the blue sea systems kit.

http://bluesea.com/products/7650

it took me a while to get all the wiring down and the cost of the wires themselves was high as well. it is a very slick system. you wire 1 battery as the starter battery and the other as the house battery. the ACR isolates the batteries until the starter battery hits something like 13.5V (while the motor is running), then it connects them so that the house battery gets the benefit of the charge from the alternator. once the house battery drops below a preset voltage (after turning off the motor), the ACR isolates the batteries so the starter battery is protected. there is a switch that will allow you to combine the batteries in the event that your starter battery is drained and you need to combine the two batteries to be able to crank the motor. once you get it set up, its pretty much turn the key and forget about it. the switch also includes an "off" position for extended storage.

on our boat (toon not mc), i have a fridge that stays on pretty much all the time we are out. we can park for hours and run the tunes and the fridge and even courtesy lights, etc, and never have to worry about not being able to crank due to a drained battery.

there is a wealth of information and schematics on the iboats forums that i used to figure out my wiring.

i used http://shop.genuinedealz.com/ to buy the wires. this saved me a ton of money vs. west marine and similar places.

shocker47
02-28-2011, 09:08 PM
Couldnt I just run the batteries on a switch? Pictures would be great guys!

shocker47
02-28-2011, 10:43 PM
is this what i need? http://www.amazon.com/BLUE-SEA-SOLENOID-120A-24V/dp/B000OTIPDQ

mattdda
02-28-2011, 11:11 PM
You can also find that switch here: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BSS7650

Here's what I did:

Went to the local west marine and bought a perko dual battery switch. Wired pos batt1 to perko input 1. Wired pos batt 2 to perko input 2. Wired common batt1 to boat common. Wired comm batt1 to comm bat2 to perko comm. Selecting batt 1, both, or batt 2 completes the circuit and uses that chosen batt(s). So...when I launch, I run with batt1. Stop to listen to music, I switch to batt2. When batt2 dies (rarely ever), switch to batt1 to start the boat, then switch to batt 2 for the rest of the ride to recharge. If batt2 doesnt die, I use it for the rest of the ride to recharge. Easy - simple.

I'm not against the blusea or items like it - it's just that I've been stranded by electronics before - and to me - I feel more confident if this way.

EarmarkMarine
02-28-2011, 11:18 PM
We use the SurePower 1314 voltage sensing automatic solenoid in combination with the Blue Sea 5511 dual circuit switch and we use a different wiring scheme. This enables complete dual battery isolation during shore charging and has multiple other advantages.

David
Earmark Marine

shocker47
02-28-2011, 11:26 PM
Thanks guys, but do you have any pictures or wiring diagrams I am more of a photo thinker..

mattdda
02-28-2011, 11:37 PM
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=perko+2+battery+switch&cp=7&bav=on.1,or.&wrapid=tljp1298950350805042&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1521&bih=738

Best I can say is google it...I still haven't figured out how to post images. And anyway, my Bananna B*tch is in storage 45 min away...so I'm unable to snap a convenient shot at the moment.

jafo9
02-28-2011, 11:59 PM
the traditional "perko" 4 way switch certainly is the easiest, i just wanted a system that my wife could use without having to remember to turn any switches whatsoever. if i had to do it over again, i would certainly consider shore power as it would be nice to run the fridge off a/c when we are at the boathouse. my guess is that would have increased the cost a fair amount. i always make sure to turn the master switch to off before i plug in the dual bank charger in hopes of avoiding a potential short circuit situation. here is my rudimentary wiring diagram. the unlabeled box with the 4 poles is the switch. if you have a master fuse panel it will make your wiring easier.

whatever system you choose, make sure you select the correct gauge wire for the high currents coming from the alternator and the high current required for starting power. i also followed the manufacturers recommendation and put in the appropriate amperage fuses on the battery terminals. also, if you go with the traditional 4 way switch, make sure you never rotate past "off" when the motor is running. i hear its pretty devastating for an alternator.

i think you can probably ignore the wire labelled "ignition switch" for the time being. with a 12V signal from the start switch it can force an isolation of the starter battery for cranking, even if they are automatically combined by the ACR, i.e., when they are both fully charged. i also added another voltmeter to the helm (wiring not in diagram) so i could independently monitor the batteries.

EarmarkMarine
03-01-2011, 12:07 AM
jafo9,
With that scheme you have circumvented the dual battery isolation so the AC shore charger is profiling and conditioning the two banks as one.

David
Earmark Marine

TayMC197
03-01-2011, 09:22 AM
I like the duralast marines... they are cheaper, provide the amp ratings I need and hold the same warranties as the optima's.... I have had success with them..

Thrall
03-01-2011, 09:24 AM
jafo9,
With that scheme you have circumvented the dual battery isolation so the AC shore charger is profiling and conditioning the two banks as one.

David
Earmark Marine

A simple way to circumvent that would be to put a disconnect on one of the charging wires from the ACR to a battery. It wouldn't be a true "plug and Play" for charging but easy way to condition the batteries individually.

jafo9
03-01-2011, 09:40 AM
yes, that is one of the reasons why i turn the master switch off prior to charging. after use of the batteries, during the initial charge, they are separated until the batteries hit the float level and then the ACR kicks in and combines them. i've thought about rigging up a 12v dummy signal to piggy back on the starter isolation wire to force the ACR to isolate the batteries but so far it seems to work ok. i only use the charger when i'm away from the boat for extended periods of time. i'm always open to suggestions. thanks.

shocker47
03-01-2011, 09:02 PM
Does it matter what kind of battery i get? like do i have to match the amp to the other battery? And whats a good battery for under 150$

Jerseydave
03-01-2011, 09:27 PM
This might help you out

http://www.bluewatermarinesvc.com/html/bat_switch.html

shocker47
03-01-2011, 10:24 PM
Very very helpful thanks a lot! now all i need to figure out is which and what kind of battery to get

JJMorris3
03-01-2011, 10:50 PM
Hi Shocker. I have a 94 prostar 205 and I installed a second battery this past summer. I took the simple approach and use a Perko switch. I am writing to let you know that I used the factory wiring that runs to the back of the boat and relocated the battery (and added another) under the spotter seat. The factory cable reaches which is information that I felt you might like to know. Good luck to you. If you like I can send a pix under my seat so you can see my setup. Oh, I also added a battery tender. I use battery A on Saturday's and battery B on Sundays. I have a small receiver head with a small amp. Haven't had an issue at all. The alternate battery is always available if I run low on the main one I am running each day.

shocker47
03-01-2011, 11:57 PM
That's the set up I might do. What kind of batteries and yeah can i see pictures? Thanks a lot!

NatesGr8
03-02-2011, 11:06 AM
I like the duralast marines... they are cheaper, provide the amp ratings I need and hold the same warranties as the optima's.... I have had success with them..
+1 i love my duralast batteries

TayMC197
03-02-2011, 01:28 PM
Does it matter what kind of battery i get? like do i have to match the amp to the other battery? And whats a good battery for under 150$

$75 bucks a piece and not really unless you have a lot of stereo which isn't really an issue.