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TNPIG
02-27-2011, 06:00 PM
I'm pretty sure I'm right on these, but I just wanted to make sure. In the pictures, I've done my best to draw an arrow to where I'm talking about and type my question next to it. My main one is the one about the hose I pull if I want to put it in a 5 gallon bucket of antifreeze to run through the engine.

I'm sure on the exhaust manifold drain plugs and the j tube plug. Just want to be 100% sure on the two on the engine block. I know I'm going to have many questions in the future, so that's why I went ahead and started a thread. Thanks

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
02-27-2011, 06:14 PM
That is all correct.
Be sure to apply some anti-seize to plugs when you reinstall

TNPIG
02-27-2011, 08:51 PM
Thanks for the reply McCreight. In the pictures below, is this what I take off in order to drain the transmission oil? PO said he didn't see a need to change it because it always looked good, and it does. It has a clean pinkish color to it. I'd just like to know I would be doing it right once I decide to. Plus, the owners manual says to do it once a year.

Also, while reading up on impeller changes I noticed a few said to loosen the water pump belt. Wouldn't this be accomplished by taking the two bolts holding it to the frame or do you need to loosen the belt another way first?

Table Rocker
02-27-2011, 09:04 PM
The easiest way to remove the fluid from your drive will be with a small suction gun which goes for around $10.
http://saturdaybang.org/pictures/jeep/pics/suction_gun.jpg

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
02-27-2011, 09:10 PM
I guess you can pull that off to drain atf, I just siphon out the dipstick hole, most impellers are on the frt on crank pulley, yours is not so loosening the belt is not necessary

TNPIG
02-27-2011, 10:16 PM
I didn't think about extracting it. I have a fluid extractor that I use for getting the oil out of my jet ski, so I could use that. What transmission oil do you guys use? Thanks again for the replies

EricB
02-27-2011, 10:50 PM
J. mccreight;
First, welcome! Alot of help on this site. You can waste alot of time here. Lord knows, I certainly have.
Couple of thing about your questions....yes, that is the correct hose to remove to draw anti-freeze from a bucket. But first, drain the block so the incoming coolant does not dilute with the water already in the engine. Replace the drain plugs and use 2 to 3 gallons of the RV anti-freeze in a bucket and draw it through by starting the engine and running until bucket is empty. Then shut off right away. You can tell when the system is sufficiently filled by dabing your finger in the liquid at the exhaust flaps and smelling. It should smell of coolant.

When draining the transmission, use a suction gun as recommended. Alot cleaner. Use Dexron 3 as a replacemet fluid.

To remove the raw water pump impeller, remove the whole pump. Loosen the upper and lower 2 bolts that secure it to the brackets, then remove the belt from the pump pulley. (Side note, I always had to loosen the 4 circulating water pump pulley bolts also to remove the belt fro the raw water pump).
Once RWP is removed, then remove the 4 retaing bolts and it will come apart easily. When installing a new impeller, use liquid dish soap as a lube to assemble. Piece of cake, should not take more than 15~20 min to change the impeller.

east tx skier
02-28-2011, 10:06 AM
Welcome!

One extremely important note on changing the impeller on a PCM engine is to mark the orientation of the pump housing before you do anything else. It is easy to get confused and install them upside-down. The last thing you want to do is pump the wrong way.

TNPIG
02-28-2011, 11:28 AM
Cool, thanks for the info. EricB. I also read that the engine needs to be at operating temperature before running the antifreeze so that the thermostat opens? Any particular temperature I should shoot for. I know this stuff is more for a winterizing thread normally discussed in Fall, but I'm just curious.

Thanks for the heads up on the water pump orientation east tx skier. Mine has numbers right side up on the side away from the block so that should keep me straight. I also wanted to say thanks for the work you put in to the "what things do I look for before buying a boat" on the FAQ thread. I printed the entire thing out and took with me beore I purchased the boat. It took about an hour to go through everything, but the PO appreciated it and thought it was a great idea.

east tx skier
02-28-2011, 11:43 AM
I'm glad it was useful. Lots of folks on this site contributed to that write up.

On a PCM marinization, it is my understanding that you can simply drain the block, replug it, unhook the hose going from the pump to the thermostat housing, and pour antifreeze into the those through the t-stat housing. There is a bypass on the thermostat housing that is sufficient to allow the antifreeze into the block even if the t-stat has not opened up. It usually takes around 3 gallons to fill mine up. This is how it is recommended that antifreeze be added in all of the CC manuals I have seen for PCM marinized engines. My understanding is that this is specific to PCM and won't work with Indmar marinizations.

The other way will work fine, too. But be sure to drain the block beforehand so you are not diluting the RV type antifreeze.

TNPIG
02-28-2011, 02:25 PM
Where exaxtly is the thermostat housing?

east tx skier
02-28-2011, 02:36 PM
The little cast housing at the front of the motor with the hose connected to it from the top of your water pump. See below circled in red.

TNPIG
03-21-2011, 01:38 PM
Here is a picture of my impeller. Good think I decided to go ahead an change it because it was missing two and a half fins. PO said he changed it a couple of years ago, but who knows. Was a pretty easy job...even with my limited mechanical skills.

Also, how much transmission fluid should I put in? Owners manual says 2.5 quarts, but if I'm reading the transmission manual correctly it says 4 quarts. Thanks

mayo93prostar
03-21-2011, 10:10 PM
You put in how much you take out and then check on dipstick. on my 93 with powerslot, it is about 2.5 quarts but it depends on how well you suck the old fluid out. I remove it with a vacuum pump and then measure approximately the amount by putting it in a 1 gallon milk jug. I usually change it every year now and when I take it to the oil change place to get recycled, they question me if it is used.

TNPIG
06-14-2011, 10:04 AM
Another newbie question. Do I have a fuel pump/filter on my 84 S&S? If so, could someone please explain where it is at. Thanks

oxberger
06-14-2011, 01:00 PM
TNPIG, welcome! Wish you were closer or I'd come by and help you out. I have an '85 with the same engine, and yes you do have a fuel pump/filter. I don't have any pictures, but if you are looking on the port (left side) of the engine follow the fuel line from you gas tank and that will take you to it. The filter is in the bottom bowl of the pump. Mine is metal and all youi have to do is lossen the screw on the bottom of the hold down. be careful you don't back the screw out all the way and drop it in the bilge. It can be a b***h to find. Rmove the bowl and there's the filter. If you don't have one already, I would suggest adding a fuel/water separator just before you get to the fuel pump/filter.