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Huskie05
02-17-2011, 01:23 PM
New owner, a lot of questions. We go to Lake mead a lot, Zebra Mussels are unreal, you have to flush the motor when you get home. I have the attachment for the motor, but how do I flush the tanks?

SteveO
02-17-2011, 02:08 PM
Assuming your boat has the side discharge for the ballast overflow, you could force water into those ports and then drain the tanks through the bottom fill ports?

rgardjr1
02-17-2011, 03:03 PM
Do you need to flush with anything besides water? If you already have the plunger you can hook that up to the ballast intake on the bottom of the boat too. There is usually a place between the ballast shutoff at the hull and the ballast manifold on the transom where you can inject into the ballast system. There was a winterization kit for sale over at w8ke.com designed to beable to suck in anti-freeze that should work if you needed to flush with something other than water from the hose.
http://www.w8ke.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/400x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/i/diy-winterize-kit_1.jpg

Thrall
02-17-2011, 03:21 PM
Chlorine or HOT water, like 140 F + will kill zebra mussels. Not sure what the chlorine content needs to be though. Assuming you have a manifold that the ballast water runs through, you could fill the tanks partially with a chlorine solution or very hot water. Don't know if you could turn up the water heater in your house enough though.
If you went the chlorine route and didn't want to discharge chlorinated water you can neutralize the chlorine with sodium thiosulfate. Can get that stuff at pool supply or utility pipe supply places.
If the rules are like CO with respect to zebra mussels, your boat needs to be tagged from the previous lake "mussel free" or the fish cops have to de-con your tanks. I inquired about de-conning my own tanks with chlorine as opposed to having some dufus try to inject 180 deg water at 4000psi from a big Hotsy pressure washer thru my intake with a fake a lake! (He got soaked and scalded)

They wouldn't go for it, so I just try to stay off of the mussel lakes around here and if I do go to a mussel lake, I dump a little chlorine in the tanks and then try like hell to talk the next ranger out of de-conning my tanks (tell them it's the first time the boat hit the water this year or I was only at a certain mussel free lake last).

If you need to get the boat de-conned, figure out first if you can push water into the tanks thru the overflows or rig up a hose connection to run hot water in thru the manifold (like winterizing). This will make the de-con preocess go much quicker and aleviate boat stress waitign on them to mess around getting hot water into your tanks.

TallRedRider
02-17-2011, 03:34 PM
At Sand Hollow the decon process is pretty well a joke. They stopped flushing the engines due to concerns about liability. Then a few boats had intakes that were right under the bunks (talk about poor design). And they don't know how to use a perko flush kit either. They haven't been smart enough to ask me about my ballast tanks.

I hate to recommend anything that is dishonest...but I would do what Thrall says, and also consider avoiding Mead unless you know you can have the boat out of the lake for at least the recommended amount of time (which used to be 1 week in the summer, longer as the outdoor temp cools, but seems to change every so often).

Huskie05
02-17-2011, 06:07 PM
Thank you everyone, this is very helpful. Thank you!

jason@wakemakers.com
02-18-2011, 07:53 PM
What year and model is your boat?

Huskie05
02-18-2011, 09:05 PM
What year and model is your boat?

2011 X55 thanks for any help!

Cmpdman
02-19-2011, 09:33 AM
We've up in Logan. At Lake Powell, they always flush the ballast tanks with HOT water (140 degrees). They insert the hose into the side of the boat (ballast overflow port). They pump in about 5-8 gallons in each tank.
Heres a link to a PDF. I think around page 16 has cleaning requirements (http://100thmeridian.org/Recommended-Protocols-and-Standards-for-Watercraft-Interception-Programs-for-Dreissenid-Mussels-in-the-Western-United-States.pdf)

jason@wakemakers.com
02-21-2011, 06:25 PM
Yep, Cmpdman's description is the easiest way to do the job on a lot model boat. If your boat is older than 2005 there are other things to consider.

Thrall
02-22-2011, 08:41 AM
So there's no check valve on the overflows?

jason@wakemakers.com
02-22-2011, 03:09 PM
Nope, no check valves on the overflows in a system with hard tanks because you can generate negative pressure in the tank when draining which increases the amount of work the pump has to do, and risks damage to the tank.

TallRedRider
02-22-2011, 06:40 PM
We've up in Logan. At Lake Powell, they always flush the ballast tanks with HOT water (140 degrees). They insert the hose into the side of the boat (ballast overflow port). They pump in about 5-8 gallons in each tank.
Heres a link to a PDF. I think around page 16 has cleaning requirements (http://100thmeridian.org/Recommended-Protocols-and-Standards-for-Watercraft-Interception-Programs-for-Dreissenid-Mussels-in-the-Western-United-States.pdf)

That is probably reasonable, but will not clean out any water between the intake and a check valve if you have a discharge out the side, like I have mine.