View Full Version : light harness question
02-01-2011, 06:04 PM
I bought a 2003 205v (basically x2 that year with all the towers, speakers and stuff) - they added the light bar which I like. But the wiring harness appears to actually be a trailer harness (like a 4 flat harness) made into a wiring harness. One of the wires is just hanging loose - I have 5 total lights, they all work, when you toggle the accessory switch up, the 2 front turn on, toggle down, the 3 rear turn on - but that harness, which is on top of the zero flex, just out in the open, drives me nuts - I need to get a picture, anybody got an idea of a good, proper fix? it works, it just isn't pretty...
02-01-2011, 06:18 PM
Hard to say with out a pic, but check out other boats at a dealer or the lake and see how others are setting theirs up.
02-01-2011, 07:58 PM
Not sure if this will help but check out the pic attached to post #24 in this thread.
Comes out of the tower just above where it detaches (for fold down) with a plug then back in to the bottom piece. My boat is in storage so can provide a pic.
02-02-2011, 12:39 AM
That looks to be a factory plug. Its def not a trailer plug. (if im looking at the right plug) That loose wire prob goes to something if it factory. The wire looks like its really long. My Gf parents have x10 and the plugs look the same but there is prob like 3in max of the that wire loom showing. Im a wire guy... We can make it look good.
02-02-2011, 12:51 PM
no, that is not mine, I have to get some pics, mine is definately a rigged trailer harness - I'll try to get some pics posted this weekend. Mainly, anyone got an idea of what kind of linking harness I can buy to link up 6 tower lights?
02-02-2011, 03:51 PM
Here is some quick info.
If you are using 5 amp halogen lamps then use no more than three per a 14-gauge conductor. Three lamps are too much for a 15 amp marine switch so the switch should trigger a relay. Horn relays (Bosch, Tyco, etc.) are rated for intermittent use so you need to limit the draw to no more than 40 percent of the rating. Two lamps require a 30 amp relay and three lamps require a 40 amp relay. We use Deutsch plug disconnects because they have a heavy duty series that can handle the current (but are limited in the number of pins) and are compact (so they look nice and steamlined). If you have 4,5 or 6 six halogen lamps then this is too much draw for the helm buss or breaker/fuse panel. The fused supply needs to run battery switch direct with a 10 gauge minimum for three lamps and an 8-gauge for greater numbers. DC lighting, and particularly halogens, are serious biz. We don't use crimp connectors because of the amount of heat that the resistance creates. Purely soldered and heatshrunk. Btw, jacketed multi-conductor wire with a slick outer sleeve is comparatively a dream to pull through a tower.
02-02-2011, 04:56 PM
I think that makes some sense, (not you, just my lack of understanding) I'll check with a parts store here for the Deutsch disconnects and check the fuse rating next time I am at the boat
02-03-2011, 03:17 PM
Does anybody know, in general, can you run 5 average tower lights off a single hot coming from the accessory switch? If so, I am wondering why would I use a bulky trailer plug for the disconnect vs. a simple snap type 2 way...
02-03-2011, 03:31 PM
Five 5-amp halogen lamps would be a 25 amp load. Finding a connector with two poles with that current capacity will be difficult to find and probably will be just as bulky as a multipole connector. You also lose the ability to control front and rear lamps independently. There are times when the boat is squatting that the reflection off the white bow gelcoat finish will make it more difficult to see with the lights on. I would prefer the separate functions.
02-03-2011, 03:34 PM
Got it. Thanks!